Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)
First off, I'm an idiot. Let's get that out of the way. I left my
just-bought Addams in my Florida garage for a week before I could, um,
negotiate its entrance to the house. I'm expecting answers like, "you
idiot, the humidity did you in".
I played a game (late at night, of course) last night in the garage, and
while I was playing, the DMD got progressively glitchier. When a
full-screen image (say GRAVE award) appeared, the display would recover
temporarily. 60 seconds or so later, the game wedged with a junk on the
DMD and a sound sample looping; a ball was autolaunched, all controls
were dead, and then the playfield lights went into attract mode.
From this I deduce that the sound board was OK, and some of the game
logic was running. Not sure what else it tells me.
Tonight, I finally got it into the house, and it won't even boot. Flip
the switch, thunk from the amp, nothing else. I didn't leave it powered
up long, just seven seconds or so, lest I cause further damage.
My first instinct is that some bus connector corroded and I need to let
it dry out in the air conditioned house for a few days, reseat
everything, and see where I am. But what's the basic method for
troubleshooting the brains? I've got a good meter and an oscilloscope,
so I'm not entirely without tools. "RTFM" advice welcome, so long as
you can suggest a book or URL to start from. I've ordered a manual for
the machine, but won't have it for a few days.
Final plea: it would be very helpful if this TAF did not remain dead
too long, lest it end up on the sidewalk with me sleeping under it.
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)
Clay's guides are a good starting point. First step, do you get a
flashing light on the CPU? If so, you are booting. So need to reseat
the roms and ribbon and power cables on the wpc board.
No flashing LED is quite possibly a bad 5V line - check with scope and
meter.
This can be fixed, but a systematic approach is critical. otherwise,
you'll be replacing stuff that you don't need to mess with.
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)
martin wrote:
> Clay's guides are a good starting point. First step, do you get a
> flashing light on the CPU? If so, you are booting. So need to reseat
> the roms and ribbon and power cables on the wpc board.
Excellent. After re-seating everything, the machine booted and I can
now run diagnostics again. The DMD was more or less intact: vertical
bars every 8th column or so, which should be easy to zoom in on a bad
data line. The sounds were confused, but again I'll trace that in the
diagnostics once I don't risk waking everyone with a cacophony.
> No flashing LED is quite possibly a bad 5V line - check with scope and
> meter.
>
> This can be fixed, but a systematic approach is critical. otherwise,
> you'll be replacing stuff that you don't need to mess with.
Thanks very much for the help and the reference to Clay's guides. I've
rebookmarked marvin3m.com and will carefully assess the beast tomorrow.
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)
Mamushka wrote:
> "a ball was autolaunched, all controls
> were dead, and then the playfield lights went into attract mode."
>
> I must have gotten ripped-off, I can't find the autolauncher on my TAF
>
Good point! Clearly I launched it myself, but conscious thought didn't
enter into it. It is automatic, just with biological components. Ball in trough, GO!
This is why two-player games should deliver an electrical shock to
player one if he doesn't step away when his ball is over...
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)
Immediate suspect is now the ribbon cables that connect the wpc, sound
and video boards. Easy quick check is to turn them all end to end so
that the red end is at the high numbered pin rather than pin 1.
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