best clearcoat to use

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Anybody have preferences on which clear coat they like better. I've
gotten a couple of recomendations.....just looking for more input.

Thanks,
Matt
 
K

karl

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Auto Clear is what I like, see Mesa or Arizona Bruce process in RGP
history. You can have it sprayed at a local body shop. It is very good.

Karl.
 
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http://marvin3m.com/clear
that should answer all your questions.

arkanerd wrote:
> Anybody have preferences on which clear coat they like better. I've
> gotten a couple of recomendations.....just looking for more input.
>
> Thanks,
> Matt
 
G

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Sikkens? That's boat stuff. Mighty expensive, too, if I remember
rightly. Of course, if it's tough enough for a marine environment, it
should be tough enough for a pin, but is it hard enough? I would think
dimple city would be the case. And I know Sikkens doesn't come in
spray, you'd have to brush it on.
I've been having pretty good results following Clay's instructions and
just using Varathane. Only difference is I use all enamels for the
touchups which precludes auto clears. But when I finish my Sorcerer
I'll hold it up to anyone's work and see how it stands up.
 
O

otto

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Sikkens


Otto

CARGPB11

My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding

"arkanerd" <arkanerd@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1126748592.380849.55210@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> Anybody have preferences on which clear coat they like better. I've
> gotten a couple of recomendations.....just looking for more input.
 
G

Guest

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Ok I want to order some TOP videos, I read you thing on clearing. Im
into pinballs only SS, EM and DMD. I take it I need all of them except
TOP 6. How can I order them? I will order all of the ones I need at the
same time.

mikep28@insightbb.com If need by email.
 
O

otto

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Lines are crossed here. Must be thinking of a different product.

My clearcoat friend, who is a Sikkens rep, trains and sets up auto body
shops to spray the stuff on automobiles.

Expensive? Yes.

Why? It's the best stuff out there. Cures fast.

:>)

Otto

CARGPB11

My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding

"deafdumb&blindboy" <ilduchi1@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:1126767944.050367.233410@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> Sikkens? That's boat stuff. Mighty expensive, too, if I remember
> rightly. Of course, if it's tough enough for a marine environment, it
> should be tough enough for a pin, but is it hard enough? I would think
> dimple city would be the case. And I know Sikkens doesn't come in
> spray, you'd have to brush it on.
> I've been having pretty good results following Clay's instructions and
> just using Varathane. Only difference is I use all enamels for the
> touchups which precludes auto clears. But when I finish my Sorcerer
> I'll hold it up to anyone's work and see how it stands up.
>
 
G

Guest

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Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Sikkens is the best stuff out there? Why, because your friend that
works for Sikkens told you that?
 
G

Guest

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I am also using the varathane, but the semi-gloss rather than the gloss
as I think it protects an older game without looking too new and shiny
which would be out of character, I guess if I were coating a newer game
I would use the gloss.

Jim
 
G

Guest

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Why not? If you walk on a deck, it should be a tough enough finish for
a playfield.
And Sikkens got their start in the coatings industry with their Cetol
Marine finishes. I've been doing boat maintenance since I was old
enough to hold a varnish brush in my hand (25+ years now). I've put
every kind of varnish, polyurethane, and synthetic coating on teak for
a long time. Sikkens Cetol is considered a synthetic coating. This
stuff is totally unsuitable for use as a clear coat, since it isn't
clear-it naturally has an orange brown cast thanks to it's use of iron
oxide as a UV inhibitor for marine environments, which are the harshest
known to mankind. Bar none. Anyway, a quart of gloss Sikkens costs $30.
Which, compared to Epifanes is cheap-a liter goes for $40. Or even
Interlux's Perfection Polyurethane-$55 a quart. So there are better and
more expensive coatings than Sikkens. Me, I get by on $25/quart
captain's varnish by Z-spar for my boat, and every bit of wood on it,
including my 22' long Sitka Spruce mast, has a minimum of 12 coats on
it. My little boat is only 12' long, but seeing as how it was built in
1964, it actually has quite a bit of wood- the rudder is all wood, as
well as the mast and boom, and it has teak rubrails that surround it as
well. Each of those has 15 coats of varnish. Anyone wants to see
pictures, I'll post 'em-but you'll need to put sunglasses on before
viewing them, as I won't be held responsible for blinding anyone due to
the extreme reflectivity from their flawless finishes. :p
Otto wrote:
> Could be.
>
> I thought we were talking about automotive clearcoat for pinball playfields.
>
> I wouldn't recommend a deck coating for a playfield.
>
> Otto
>
> CARGPB11
>
> My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding
>
 
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Same here Jim,

I use varathane and have been happy with the results. It's not as
smooth as the auto clear, but I think it looks good, it's cheaper and
if I screw it up and I can fix it ;-)

Scott
 
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Greg

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I also use Varathane, gloss. Works great on the EM games I work on. If
you don't want it a glossy finish, use gloss for all coats, except use
semigloss on the last coat only. Semi is slightly opaque due to the
slicate particles in the finish that makes it semi. Using gloss for all
but the last coat minimizes the opaqueness, but still difuses the light
to reduce gloss.
 
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otto

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Because it's yellow according to you. That's why you don't use it.

Sikkens automotive clear is not yellow.

Otto

CARGPB11

My web page: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-Ottoslanding

"deafdumb&blindboy" <ilduchi1@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:1126847341.198133.267940@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
> Why not? If you walk on a deck, it should be a tough enough finish for
> a playfield.
 
G

Guest

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Surprised it took Fred this long to chime in, I was started to write a
reply to Karl but then said "why bother".... obviously a "his way or
the highway" type of guy.

No offense intended Fred but the best quote from RGP in the past year
is "Bite me, Kemper". I had to laugh out loud when whomever that was
posted that.
 
G

Guest

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You know, that "Mop & Glo" doesn't really
sound like that bad of an idea, either...!

Fred
TX
CARGPB#8
==============================

seymour-shabow@excite.com wrote:
> Surprised it took Fred this long to chime in, I was started to write a
> reply to Karl but then said "why bother".... obviously a "his way or
> the highway" type of guy.
>
> No offense intended Fred but the best quote from RGP in the past year
> is "Bite me, Kemper". I had to laugh out loud when whomever that was
> posted that.
 
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karl

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> Remember, once you start covering a playfield
> with extra clear, it's now damaged goods anyway!
>
> Fred
> TX
> CARGPB#8
> =============================

Oh, so now -I'M- the bad guy?

We don't (shouldn't) clear good PF's for the heck of it. The ones I do
are being brought back into presentable and funactional condition from
various states of wear and dissaray.

The (water base) acrylic latex paints are used to fix missing color AND
to fill the cracks/chips of missing paint. The clear is used to protect
it and to smooth out the low spots (cracks/chips) and is finaly after a
few days (NOT MONTHS!) it is sanded flat as galss and polished to a
high lusture. Try that with your verathane mop and glow slop.

Even the word verathane is like nail on a chalk board!

In this particular case you had better believe it is my (Or actualy
Arizona Mesa Bruce perfected {and RGP documented} this method) way or
the high way.

Karl.
 
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karl

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Fred Kemper wrote:
> You know, that "Mop & Glo" doesn't really
> sound like that bad of an idea, either...!

Dohhh! :mad:
Karl.

>
> Fred
> TX
> CARGPB#8
> ==============================
 
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Greg

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Ok, who here would drive around an old classic car that was rusted out
with faded paint? Most normal people would fix the car and have it
painted. However, if you would rather drive around a rust bucket, then
go ahead; and you are probably one who would also not fix up your
playfield. But the rest of us who are capable of restoring a playfield
and then clear coating it to preserve it are going to do so to prevent
further damage to a worn playfield. Is Varathane the absolute best to
use for clear coating? Debatable. Is it a terrible thing that will ruin
your playfield? Noooo. Just get over it.
 
G

Guest

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IMO, it depends. If you are trying to pass off
that the _paint job_ makes that old classic car
something special now, then I'm not for it.

If the new paint job is to preserve and protect
what was left, then it's great!

If that old classic car has a decent _original_
paint job, then it is worth the most *to me*.

Paint job = not original/ruined/damaged

Not original = not worth as much (*to me*!)

May be a "driver", but not a "trophy"...

Fred
TX
CARGPB#8
=======================================


Greg wrote:
> Ok, who here would drive around an old classic car that was rusted out
> with faded paint? Most normal people would fix the car and have it
> painted. However, if you would rather drive around a rust bucket, then
> go ahead; and you are probably one who would also not fix up your
> playfield. But the rest of us who are capable of restoring a playfield
> and then clear coating it to preserve it are going to do so to prevent
> further damage to a worn playfield. Is Varathane the absolute best to
> use for clear coating? Debatable. Is it a terrible thing that will ruin
> your playfield? Noooo. Just get over it.
 
G

Guest

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"Driver" is better than "getting worse because nothing was done to
protect it from deteriorating farther" in my book. Sure, everyone wants
that perfect, minty, untouched by human hands, 42 plays on the counter
Cactus Canyon, whatever the %$#^ you want to call it game. Can everyone
here afford to buy it? Hell no! Can some of us cheapskate po' folks
find a game that needs some cosmetic work, touch it up, clearcoat it
with $7/can Varathane, and make it not only look pretty freakin' good
but also keep it from becoming ready for the trash heap in two months
by doing so? YES! And KUDOS to Clay for putting out the info for us PO'
WHITE TRASH dumbshits who like to spray stuff on things to protect them
because we can't afford to send it out to the "pros". If we could
afford that, we'd have bought that minty one in the first place. It's
the same thing, only from a different perspective. And it is different
perspectives that gives this forum, this nation, this world, a little
bit of diversity. Let's celebrate diversity instead of trashing it
every time someone has a POV different from ours.
 
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karl

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deafdumb&blindboy wrote:
> "Driver" is better than "getting worse because nothing was done to
> protect it from deteriorating farther" in my book. Sure, everyone wants
> that perfect, minty, untouched by human hands, 42 plays on the counter
> Cactus Canyon, whatever the %$#^ you want to call it game. Can everyone
> here afford to buy it? Hell no! Can some of us cheapskate po' folks
> find a game that needs some cosmetic work, touch it up, clearcoat it
> with *$50 Automotive Clearcoat*, and make it not only look pretty freakin' good
> but also keep it from becoming ready for the trash heap in two months
> by doing so? YES! And KUDOS to Clay for putting out the info for us PO'
> WHITE TRASH dumbshits who like to spray stuff on things to protect them
> because we can't afford to send it out to the "pros". If we could
> afford that, we'd have bought that minty one in the first place. It's
> the same thing, only from a different perspective. And it is different
> perspectives that gives this forum, this nation, this world, a little
> bit of diversity. Let's celebrate diversity instead of trashing it
> every time someone has a POV different from ours.

Man..... I love you guys! (Say like Eric Kartman on south park)
 
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john

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Was the question which auto clear is the best?

Bill Davis - Dupont 4700
Chris Hutchins - Dupont 72500
Playfield Renovations - Sikkens

Will they all work just as good in a pinball or is there one that is
much better? I have a SEGA playfield with some wear that I want to get
touched and cleared. Are there any problems clearing over the original
coating which was IMRON (according to some old posts)?
 
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