Shaker motor in a LOTR (or any pin for that matter...)?

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Could you put a shaker motor in a LOTR )or any pin that wasnt designed
for one)?

Love the shaker motor feel on a Harley, but not a fan of the game.
Thought that a shaker tied to the balrog would be an awesome combo.

is this possible?

what power drain/consideration would there need to be?

Curious....
 
G

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Sorry I can't give you advice on if it will work or not, but that is a
kick ass idea!
 

Adi

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Well, yes, it's possible to put in in any game you want, actualy. You
need the shaker motor board too, and most importantly you need NOT
being electronically/mechanically challenged and able to read a manual.

Adi
www.txpinball.com

skbrothers@comcast.net wrote:
> Could you put a shaker motor in a LOTR )or any pin that wasnt designed
> for one)?
>
> Love the shaker motor feel on a Harley, but not a fan of the game.
> Thought that a shaker tied to the balrog would be an awesome combo.
>
> is this possible?
>
> what power drain/consideration would there need to be?
>
> Curious....
 
G

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Wait a minute. In a game like LoTR, the software doesn't tell such a
motor when to activate. How would this work?
 
G

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BTW, a good subwoofer will make it feel as though a small motor is
installed. Mine vibrates like crazy when the Balrog's hit.
 
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Would it be as simple as tying the motor "Inline" with the Balrog
light?

IE: when ever power feeds to Balrogs LED/Light, power would also flow
to the shaker motor.

Cant be that easy, I'm sure....

azpinlawyer...do you have pinball pro sub? I have one coming
today...will I be impressed?
 

Michael

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Well, on LOTR, I would hook up the shaker motor to the tower coil.
That way when the tower was destroyed and motor would activate in
conjunction with it.

Michael
 
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Doesn't pinliz make a board that can be used for this? Pop bumper
driver board that could be used for different apps (i.e. a longer "on"
time for motors with a one shot.)
 
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I HAVE done this to my IJ. I can't explain the technical aspect as I
had someone else build me the control board but I tied it in to the
Idol so whenever it releases a ball the shaker activates. I simply used
the ST*TNG shaker mod, that has been discussed on the group here, as a
starting point. Once you have the control board the rest is easy. I
tried hooking it up to various circuits until I found a setup I liked.

One word of warning, at least for IJ, I found that when I hooked the
shaker setup into the flasher circuit for the yellow light on the ruins
it affected the dogfight timer. Weird, I don't know what wasgoing on
but messed with something.Once I disconnected from there it was fine
again.

Al

nomad wrote:
> Check this thead:
>
> http://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.pinball/browse_thread/thread/a73dd822872739e4/75f24e487970f792?q=ij+shaker+mod&rnum=1#75f24e487970f792
>
> I wanted to add this ti my IJ as well but I don't quite understand the
> need for the "mod board" mentioned. If it's just the shaker in line
> with the lamp it would be cool.
>
> nomad
 
G

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Wow great idea! With something along the lines of a System 80 pop bumper
driver board, I wonder if you might be able to keep the motor going for
longer than the idol is turning -- maybe for a few seconds anyway...

Photos and details on this sort of mod are always appreciated.

Randy

"Superpin Al" <al.kuester@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1126892018.474890.206660@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
>I HAVE done this to my IJ. I can't explain the technical aspect as I
> had someone else build me the control board but I tied it in to the
> Idol so whenever it releases a ball the shaker activates. I simply used
> the ST*TNG shaker mod, that has been discussed on the group here, as a
> starting point. Once you have the control board the rest is easy. I
> tried hooking it up to various circuits until I found a setup I liked.
>
> One word of warning, at least for IJ, I found that when I hooked the
> shaker setup into the flasher circuit for the yellow light on the ruins
> it affected the dogfight timer. Weird, I don't know what wasgoing on
> but messed with something.Once I disconnected from there it was fine
> again.
>
> Al
>
> nomad wrote:
>> Check this thead:
>>
>> http://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.pinball/browse_thread/thread/a73dd822872739e4/75f24e487970f792?q=ij+shaker+mod&rnum=1#75f24e487970f792
>>
>> I wanted to add this ti my IJ as well but I don't quite understand the
>> need for the "mod board" mentioned. If it's just the shaker in line
>> with the lamp it would be cool.
>>
>> nomad
>
 
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you could probably use the ToM saw mod boards since when triggered it
runs for a few seconds, and you could throw that switch anywhere.

-c
 
G

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skbrothers@comcast.net wrote:
> Could you put a shaker motor in a LOTR )or any pin that wasnt designed
> for one)?
>
> Love the shaker motor feel on a Harley, but not a fan of the game.
> Thought that a shaker tied to the balrog would be an awesome combo.
>
> is this possible?
>
> what power drain/consideration would there need to be?
>
> Curious....


I have a RS shaker motor/mounting plate and control pcb so I was
thinking how to do a shaker mod to one of the following.Saw the one
someone did on STTNG so sorta based on that tied in with how RS was
done

STTNG
J126:1(sol17 gun) - driver pin4 pcb
and/or
J126:7(sol23 shields) -driver pin4 pcb

J118:3 -ground pin1 pcb

J107:6(or can be J106:5) -20 Volts pin6 pcb



or in an AFM


J139:3 -ground

J134:5 -20 Volts

J118:3(saucer shake sol15) -driver
and/or
J110:3(strobe sol 39)

If I use two lines to drive put diodes (byw54 for example) in each line
or is that a bad idea?
In line 2amp fuse for 20volts?

Figured saucer shake was logical,and shaker while strobe is on would be
cool.
Not total techie-hence me being unsure if two could drive

Chrispoibug
 
G

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OK...

This thread has gotten a bit out of my comfort zone (to say the least).


Korn...you scare me ;)

Anyway, If someone ever made a "Plug and Play" mod for this with good
instructions and pics I might try it.

For you that are more knowledgeable than I, take a look at this
site....is this what we are looking for?

http://home.wi.rr.com/pinballpassion/shaker.html

Thanks to Dave Schulpius....
 
G

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There you go, that's the link you need and Dave is the guy who built
the board for me at a fair price I might add. Great guy.

As for the details of where I have it hooked up I will have to get back
to you as my pins are somewhat buried during a basement
drywall/painting/carpet project.

Email me and once I am able I will get you the details of what I have
setup now.

Al
 
G

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If someone yays or nays my idea in post just above this,you could get
the driver board from bayarea for $25 and the motor-under RS section.
I could measure up motor base/holder if ya like.A bit of cable ans a
few connectors.And I can post some photos

Chrispoibug
 
G

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Just to throw in my .02 worth. You can have multiple activations for
different features. You don't have to settle for only one feature to
run the motor. These can have different time lengths also. We
discussed using solid state relays in another thread yesterday or the
day before.

You can salvage other boards to use as an interface, like the pop
bumper board with a different arrangement of timing capacitors and
resistors. You can take a timer and self latch it to run until it
times out by only using the initial pulse of say, a flashlamp. Block
the input back to the flashlamp with sturdy diode.

This is a wide open experimenters blast. Just ALWAYS follow good
practices in fusing, current limiting, and component arrangement.

Mario
Pinthetic
 
G

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TheKorn wrote:
> However, that design suffers from what I expected; since the lamps are
> still in circuit, the tip36C doesn't turn 'on' for the full lamp cycle.
> Hence the note at the top that it's a subtle effect.
>
> Don't know about you guys, but if I'm putting in a shaker motor, I want
> to temporarily lose the ablity to procreate for at least ten minutes! :)

I think the subtle effect is due to 2 factors. First he took one of the
weights off. Second, depends on where you tie in.

I found this out as I experimented with different setups. Seems certain
flashers don't put out long enough which is why I tied into the idol
control. I also tied in a couple places where the damn motor seemed to
run forever to the point where I could smell something heating up in
the motor!

Al
 
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skbrothers@comcast.net wrote in news:1126885130.991067.214250
@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

> Would it be as simple as tying the motor "Inline" with the Balrog
> light?
>
> IE: when ever power feeds to Balrogs LED/Light, power would also flow
> to the shaker motor.
>
> Cant be that easy, I'm sure....
>
> azpinlawyer...do you have pinball pro sub? I have one coming
> today...will I be impressed?

This -could- work, but off the top of my head having the lamp in parallel
would wind up shortening the 'shake' cycles quite a bit. What I'm
theorizing -might- happen is that the duty cycle would be lowered to the
point where you wouldn't get much shaking at all.

(talking out of my ass...)
 
G

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"nomad" <damonoresky@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:1126887257.272656.159660@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

> Check this thead:
>
> http://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.pinball/browse_thread/thread/a
> 73dd822872739e4/75f24e487970f792?q=ij+shaker+mod&rnum=1#75f24e487970f79
> 2
>
> I wanted to add this ti my IJ as well but I don't quite understand the
> need for the "mod board" mentioned. If it's just the shaker in line
> with the lamp it would be cool.

Although I haven't seen the board in question, at the very LEAST it's
simply a small driver board. Basically, you're attempting to run a motor
via a transistor that was never sized to do that job, so you need to
'step up' the current carrying capacity with a larger transistor.

i.e. instead of using a tip102, you'd need to use a tip36C. (probably;
again talking a little out of my ass here.) So you feed the output of
the 102 into the 36C (along with power and ground), and essentially "amp
up" the capacity of that circuit.

That's -exactly- the board I made (except with THREE tip36Cs, so I
wouldn't have to use any heat sinks! :) ) to drive the 'floor flashers'
on my ST:TNG. There's a tip102 normally driving the shield flashers, and
I needed to drive the original three shield flashers plus eight more that
were pointing at the floor. 36C it is! :) (again, I used three of them
so that I'd spread the heat out and wouldn't _need_ a heatsink.
Definitely overkill, but 36Cs are fairly cheap in bulk!)

That's why I'm worried about what would happen if the bulb was left 'in
line' with the circuit. Essentially, instead of the input voltage to the
36C dropping to zero 'instantaneously', the bulb will cause it to instead
slew down at a more-or-less constant rate. This would cause the 36C not
to turn on for the full width of the lamp pulse, resulting in shorter
pulses (i.e. less "motor on" time).

------

With all of that said, I _seem_ to remember a motor controller board that
would allow you to specify the 'motor on' time once the motor actually
turned ON. In other words, once the motor turned on, it would stay on
for at _least_ X milliseconds, regardless of what the input was doing.
That would (theoretically) work well in the intended scenario, although
I'm not sure if the design in question has that ability.
 
G

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"seymour-shabow@excite.com" <seymour-shabow@excite.com> wrote in
news:1126889299.648881.133190@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com:

> Doesn't pinliz make a board that can be used for this? Pop bumper
> driver board that could be used for different apps (i.e. a longer "on"
> time for motors with a one shot.)

Ah yes, forgot about PBDB's. That would give you a variable ON time,
though you'd probably still need some sort of auxillary board as I believe
these use 102's.

You'd also have to modify the input with a comparator for it to work
correctly. A PBDB is looking for a switch closure, not for driving an
input to ground.
 
G

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skbrothers@comcast.net wrote in news:1126898748.893976.201630
@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

> OK...
>
> This thread has gotten a bit out of my comfort zone (to say the least).
>
> Korn...you scare me ;)

Haahaha! You're not the only one. :)

> For you that are more knowledgeable than I, take a look at this
> site....is this what we are looking for?
>
> http://home.wi.rr.com/pinballpassion/shaker.html
>
> Thanks to Dave Schulpius....

Right! That's essentially the 'step up' transistor board that I
mentioned in my other post. I did basically the same thing, although I
got there a different way by ripping off WMS' design from the sys11 days.
(Hey, why reinvent the wheel, right? :) ) Then I added one HELL of a
capacitor bank to feed it. (The WPC power supply gets really REALLY
unhappy with 12 flashers going off at exactly the same time! :)) )

However, that design suffers from what I expected; since the lamps are
still in circuit, the tip36C doesn't turn 'on' for the full lamp cycle.
Hence the note at the top that it's a subtle effect.

Don't know about you guys, but if I'm putting in a shaker motor, I want
to temporarily lose the ablity to procreate for at least ten minutes! :)

I experienced this 'subtle effect' when doing the floor flasher project.
I got around it by taking the original lamps _off_ of the original
circuit, and having the original tip 102 feed -only- the tip36Cs. Then I
had the tip36Cs drive both the original AND the additional lamps. This
gave the desired effect of having -everything- on for the full flash
duration. If all devices (motor and lamps) are running off of the same
supply voltage, this shouldn't be hard to impliment; you'll just need to
run a lot of wire to make it happen.