Tom's Hardware: Topic PC won't turn on - worked fine for 2 years
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| Quote : I'll probably end up upgrading my system instead of fixing this originally $80 board. At least now I know what the problem is. |
As someone who's been in <i>exactly</i> this situation, I would advise trying to replace the caps first - because it'll cost you something like $0.50 per dodgy cap, and then you'll not need to re-install windows, re-configure anything.. etc. worst case, you lose a couple of bucks on capacitors that don't help.
I used my dead motherboard as impetus to upgrade my system, but have since fixed the mobo and turned it (along with a back-from-the-dead Gfx card and some other spare bits) into a PC for my flatmate to use (and ironically enough, I had a lot less trouble with installing XP on <i>that</i> pc than my current rig.. 
)
On balance, I would've had much less trouble - and spent less money - if I'd just fixed the board first (but I would've had less new stuff to play with 
).
Depends on your disposable income I guess - mine's not too bad atm
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<font color=red>"Life is <i>not</i> like a box of chocolates. It's more like a jar of jalapeńos - what you do today might burn your a<b></b>ss tommorrow."
dont be a sissy and fix it 
seriously, if its not for saving money, just do it for fun. You can always toss it away later if you want, but like the above poster mentioned, it costs you next to nothing to try and gives a rewarding feeling when it works. OF course, after you fixed it youll probably still want to upgrade, but thats another issue all together
= The views stated herein are my personal views, and not necessarily the views of my wife. =
| Quote : I need some in case my EPoX fails oneday |
Any old 1000uF Caps should do it. That's the ones that went on my 8RDA+ anyway. They were green and rated 1000uF/6.3V, and the replacements I got (as the old dude in the electronics shop was muttering about "Not having any <i>that</i> small" ) are about 2x the size and rated 1000uF/16V... at least that should make them less likely to blow I guess! 
Your board is a rev 2 isn't it? Don't know whether they changed the caps between revisions or anything though.. (mine was a 1.1)
Strangely enough, the ones that I later found had blown on my Ti4600 were exactly the same rating, and <i>appeared</i> to be the same make, as those that blew on the mobo, so I already had some spares (as I'd bought more than I needed originally of course), which was handy.
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<font color=red>"Life is <i>not</i> like a box of chocolates. It's more like a jar of jalapeńos - what you do today might burn your a<b></b>ss tommorrow."
Oh right - what FSB have you managed to get out of that? Mine always used to crap out at ~207 or so (~195 before I changed the NB HSF) Just curious.
Of course, now it's not used primarily by me, it's running my old 1700+ at the 'safe' settings of 200x10, 1.4V.. ..
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<font color=red>"Life is <i>not</i> like a box of chocolates. It's more like a jar of jalapeńos - what you do today might burn your a<b></b>ss tommorrow."
Lucky bugger. Mine was the older core - A1 was it? Even so, I probably could have got 215-220, but I had no VDD adjustment BIOS option, and never got around to looking into a hardwired voltmod (if one even exists)
Well, that board's Days as my main overclocked rig are over... I'm fairly happy to stay with my A64, now it finally works properly..
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<font color=red>"Life is <i>not</i> like a box of chocolates. It's more like a jar of jalapeńos - what you do today might burn your a<b></b>ss tommorrow."
Then the lub is gonna add to the cost and it's gonna be much more than $10.
<b><font color=orange>Beauty is only skin deep, ugly goes to the bone.<font color=orange></b>
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