Tech: King of Diamonds Shop Questions

[Scott]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

I'm shopping out my first Gottlieb Wedge Head. This is a 1967 GTB.
I've shopped other EMs before but they were all Williams games from the
mid-70s.

Right off the bat I've noticed a few things different that I could use
some input on:

* Flipper Rubber - what kind of rubber goes on these tiny flippers?
Red (small) rubber - what size? White "ring" rubber - what size?

* Backglass - I know how to get the back door off but I don't see a
lift channel on the backglass that I can use to get the backglass out
(to seal it with Triple Thick). How does one go about removing the
backglass out of the backbox?

* Playfield - there is a mechanism under the PF that holds it down (too
me awhile to figure that one out - how to raise the darn PF). How does
one go about pushing that bar in, to release the PF, and then raise the
PF all by themself?

When lowering the PF, can you just "push" it down to engage the
"locking" mechanism? It appeared to me that it pulls the PF down and
toward the front of the cabinet.

* Metal Posts - is it OK to throw those into my parts tumbler (walnut
media and Fitz) OR will that damage the finish on them?

* Pinball - I'm assuming this takes the standard pinball used in
today's games - true?

Any other advice on shopping this game out is appreciated, such as:
* Card mechanism located within the backbox
* Rotating target wheel in the center of the PF

Thanks

PS: I will be referencing Clay's on-line guide for tips/techniques on
the disassembling the Stepper Units within the game.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

scott@farrar.com wrote:
> I'm shopping out my first Gottlieb Wedge Head. This is a 1967 GTB.
> I've shopped other EMs before but they were all Williams games from the
> mid-70s.
>
> Right off the bat I've noticed a few things different that I could use
> some input on:
>
> * Flipper Rubber - what kind of rubber goes on these tiny flippers?
> Red (small) rubber - what size? White "ring" rubber - what size?
>
> * Backglass - I know how to get the back door off but I don't see a
> lift channel on the backglass that I can use to get the backglass out
> (to seal it with Triple Thick). How does one go about removing the
> backglass out of the backbox?

> With the backbox open a bar near the top holds the hinged score board up. Move that bar and the score board tilts back, then you can get the backglass out.

> * Playfield - there is a mechanism under the PF that holds it down (too
> me awhile to figure that one out - how to raise the darn PF). How does
> one go about pushing that bar in, to release the PF, and then raise the
> PF all by themself?
>
> When lowering the PF, can you just "push" it down to engage the
> "locking" mechanism? It appeared to me that it pulls the PF down and
> toward the front of the cabinet.
>
> * Metal Posts - is it OK to throw those into my parts tumbler (walnut
> media and Fitz) OR will that damage the finish on them?

That's how most people polish them.
>
> * Pinball - I'm assuming this takes the standard pinball used in
> today's games - true?

Yep
>
> Any other advice on shopping this game out is appreciated, such as:
> * Card mechanism located within the backbox
> * Rotating target wheel in the center of the PF

PBR has card arms and the decals for the roto unit, die cut and all.
>
> Thanks
>
> PS: I will be referencing Clay's on-line guide for tips/techniques on
> the disassembling the Stepper Units within the game.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Feel free to reference me too as I'm restoring my KoD right now

The others have ya covered on the glass and the pf. Yes on the Berry
with walnut shells as I just did mine for 24 hours and they sparkle with
no damages at all! I even through the playfield nails and all the screws
in there with 'em and they all look like new chrome

Steve Young at PBR has the animated card flags if yours are broken. He
includes tiny brass rivets to attach them. He doesn't yet have the
decals for those cards because he's waiting on me to finish the artwork
He *does* have decals for the rototarget cards but be warned the bottoms
are notched at the corners to go around the existing rivets. Keep this
in mind before you go sanding off all the existing white paint. Save the
white at the bottom!

I just scanned and cleaned up the instruction card and back mask for 5
ball play. I can send it to you to print out or you can see if Ken has
it up on his site yet as I sent it to him for all to use.

With a little help from my friend Ron we cleaned up the playfield to
absolutely gorgeous using some magic erasers and alcohol. I only have a
few minor touchups to do and then I'll be clearing with Varathane to
seal the cracks and swirls from ever getting dirty again. I do plan on
adding all this to my web page later but if you want to see the
unbelievable before and after pics concerning the ME just let me know
and I'll email you a couple. It's absolutely astonishing. Honest to God
at first look you would think my payfield was new!

scott@farrar.com wrote:
> I'm shopping out my first Gottlieb Wedge Head. This is a 1967 GTB.
> I've shopped other EMs before but they were all Williams games from the
> mid-70s.
>
> Right off the bat I've noticed a few things different that I could use
> some input on:
>
> * Flipper Rubber - what kind of rubber goes on these tiny flippers?
> Red (small) rubber - what size? White "ring" rubber - what size?
>
> * Backglass - I know how to get the back door off but I don't see a
> lift channel on the backglass that I can use to get the backglass out
> (to seal it with Triple Thick). How does one go about removing the
> backglass out of the backbox?
>
> * Playfield - there is a mechanism under the PF that holds it down (too
> me awhile to figure that one out - how to raise the darn PF). How does
> one go about pushing that bar in, to release the PF, and then raise the
> PF all by themself?
>
> When lowering the PF, can you just "push" it down to engage the
> "locking" mechanism? It appeared to me that it pulls the PF down and
> toward the front of the cabinet.
>
> * Metal Posts - is it OK to throw those into my parts tumbler (walnut
> media and Fitz) OR will that damage the finish on them?
>
> * Pinball - I'm assuming this takes the standard pinball used in
> today's games - true?
>
> Any other advice on shopping this game out is appreciated, such as:
> * Card mechanism located within the backbox
> * Rotating target wheel in the center of the PF
>
> Thanks
>
> PS: I will be referencing Clay's on-line guide for tips/techniques on
> the disassembling the Stepper Units within the game.
>

--
Cliffy - CARGPB2
A passion for pinball!
http://www.passionforpinball.com

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

scott@farrar.com wrote:
>
> I'm shopping out my first Gottlieb Wedge Head. This is a 1967 GTB.
> I've shopped other EMs before but they were all Williams games from the
> mid-70s.
>
> Right off the bat I've noticed a few things different that I could use
> some input on:
>
> * Flipper Rubber - what kind of rubber goes on these tiny flippers?
> Red (small) rubber - what size? White "ring" rubber - what size?

The below info is assuming it is like my 1965 Bank-A-Ball...can't get
on the IPDB right now to check what your flippers look like! I am
assuming the normal Gottlieb rounded-top short flippers with the
word "Flipper" on them...

1" white ring...use a black ring anywhere on this game and you will
be banned from the pinball community!! Seriously, some brands of
white rings are "fatter" than others, you want a nice fat one here,
and even at that, some folks put two rings on each flipper (one in the
groove, and one slightly below that) for extra cushion. At $12 per
pair for repro flipper bats, it makes sense.

> * Backglass - I know how to get the back door off but I don't see a
> lift channel on the backglass that I can use to get the backglass out
> (to seal it with Triple Thick). How does one go about removing the
> backglass out of the backbox?

From the back of the game...remove back door. There is a lever at
the top that goes to one side, this allows you to tilt the insert
board back. There should be some sort of a block that lets it rest
back at an angle without falling out of the game. Then, there are
two small bracket near the top that hold the backglass in. Remove
them, tilt the backlass back slightly, and lift out the back. You
might want to wear gloves, sometimes the edges are sharp and it's
not tempered glass!

> * Playfield - there is a mechanism under the PF that holds it down (too
> me awhile to figure that one out - how to raise the darn PF). How does
> one go about pushing that bar in, to release the PF, and then raise the
> PF all by themself?

Reach in, grab the bar, pull back, lift up playfield with other hand
with fingers in the outhole of the scorecard apron (just need to go
high enough to clear the latch, then let go of latch bar). Most
folks' arms are just long enough!

> When lowering the PF, can you just "push" it down to engage the
> "locking" mechanism? It appeared to me that it pulls the PF down and
> toward the front of the cabinet.

Eh, I don't...reverse the unlatching operation.

> * Metal Posts - is it OK to throw those into my parts tumbler (walnut
> media and Fitz) OR will that damage the finish on them?

I hear it's OK...I got my tumbler *the day after* I finished polishing
them all by hand!

> * Pinball - I'm assuming this takes the standard pinball used in
> today's games - true?

Yep.

> Any other advice on shopping this game out is appreciated, such as:
> * Card mechanism located within the backbox
> * Rotating target wheel in the center of the PF

Nothing to add here...except have fun!

--Bob

=======================================================================
Bob Ellingson bobe@halted.com
Halted Specialties Co., Inc. http://www.halted.com
3500 Ryder St. (408) 732-1573
Santa Clara, Calif. 95051 USA (408) 732-6428 (FAX)

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

You don't have to remove the brackets in the head to remove the backglass. The proper
way to remove the glass is to tilt the insert board back, hold the glass from both the
front and the back, lift it slightly, and drop it into the channel just behind where the
backglass rests. Now you can tilt it backwards slightly, and lift it out at an angle,
just clearing the brackets. This must be done very carefully. When you put the glass
back in, tilt it into that channel holding it from both the front and rear. Then, raise
it slightly, moving the bottom of the glass slightly forward so that it can rest as far
forward into the head as it can go. Return the insert up against the glass, and swing the
locking lever to hold the insert in.
As far as putting the PF back down, lift it slightly, swing the prop bar down, then let it
down gently, holding it by the card tray where the ball exits to the outhole. Allow it
to rest on the "auto clamp" inside the cabinet. Now, reach in through the coin door,
grab the "auto clamp" lever, and pull it forward. The PF will drop slightly. Then, simply
release the "auto clamp" lever, and the PF will lock into place.
JR

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

scott@farrar.com wrote in news:1127659096.909113.136850
@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

> * There are 2 large POST tops whereas all of the rest are the same
> size. Do you know where these go? I looked at my pics I took before
> and it looks like they went at the top of each sling-shot plastic.
>

The taller posts go at the bottom of the long chrome pieces on the sides.
The extra heighth makes up for the screw on top that you mount the
plastic on.

> * There are 6 single-sided LANE GUIDES on the game. My "before" pics
> did not have the configuation setup symetrically so I'm figuring
> someone took them off in the past (perhaps to change light bulbs) and
> didn't put them back on correctly. I put the lane guide tab in the
> rollover lane for each of the outside lanes (exposing the rubber to the
> outter edges of the game). The other side of the outside rollover
> lanes has rubber exposed. For the 2 inside rollover lanes, I put the
> lane guide tab in them (to let the ball roll smoothly down to the pop
> bumper areas). The outer edge of the inside rollover lanes has the
> rubber exposed - letting the ball bounce off of them and into that top
> popbumper. Is that correct? (I can send a pic if that would be better
> than my verbal description).
>

Two of those guides should be two-sided, and they go in the middle on
each side. It's pretty obvious when you have the right parts in front of
you. Here's the worst ASCII art you've ever seen, with H signifying the
two-sided guides:

]H[ ]H[
--
inc

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Scott I'm not doing a total restore on mine either. I will do minor
touchups and clear the playfield but thats aboyt it. I may restore the
cab in the future but its already pretty good. What I need is a
backglass and the only repro is Herbs plastic one, bleh, but I may have
no other choice.

The rubber for behind the roto is 4" and in fact, what the heck, here is
the rubber sizes you will need according to my kod chart

1 - 4"
2 - 3"
3 - 2 1/2"
2 - 1 1/2"
4 - 1"
6 - 3/4"
11 - 5/16"

Now, there should be 2 tall post caps. Those go under the two long
chrome strips on either side near the top. They go at the front with
short caps at the back beacuse there is also a plastic there that makes
up the difference.

The lane guides go like this, from left to right;
Tabs face each other on the "9" lane, "8" lane has a tab only on the
right side of that lane, open facing the pop bumper, CENTER POP, open
facing pop bumper, tab on left side of "7" lane, both tabs face each
other on the "6" lane.

Hope that helps and just ask if you need pics. I have lots thanks to Ron
tearing down for me

>
> I do have some specific questions on KoD:
> * The big RUBBER that goes alone the top of the Roto-Target - what size
> is that? I had all of the other rubber in my inventory but I'll need
> to order that one from SteveY.
>
> * There are 2 large POST tops whereas all of the rest are the same
> size. Do you know where these go? I looked at my pics I took before
> and it looks like they went at the top of each sling-shot plastic.
>
> * There are 6 single-sided LANE GUIDES on the game. My "before" pics
> did not have the configuation setup symetrically so I'm figuring
> someone took them off in the past (perhaps to change light bulbs) and
> didn't put them back on correctly. I put the lane guide tab in the
> rollover lane for each of the outside lanes (exposing the rubber to the
> outter edges of the game). The other side of the outside rollover
> lanes has rubber exposed. For the 2 inside rollover lanes, I put the
> lane guide tab in them (to let the ball roll smoothly down to the pop
> bumper areas). The outer edge of the inside rollover lanes has the
> rubber exposed - letting the ball bounce off of them and into that top
> popbumper. Is that correct? (I can send a pic if that would be better
> than my verbal description).
>
> I'm sure I'll have other questions as I get farther into this project.
> I'll keep posting to this thread so future researches will have some
> continuity when following my progress through this project.
>
> Thanks
>

--
Cliffy - CARGPB2
A passion for pinball!
http://www.passionforpinball.com