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PF touchup help

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Anonymous
September 28, 2005 10:24:29 PM

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

I have a few areas where the paint has flaked off of the yellow areas
of a Surf Champ. I have tried touching up with water based acrylics,
but the surface always looks rough and bumpy afterwards. Granted,
I've got my magnifier specs on, and the texture doesn't look bad from
normal playing distance, but I would like some advice on how to get a
smoother touchup. I have considered a air brush, but don't want to
spent about $100 on a job that is all of about 1 sq inch total. Also,
I don't want to clear the entire PF afterwards.

While I'm on the topic, there is the same type of wear around the
inserts. Is there a good way to get real nice black circles around
them? I'm currently using a paint pen to fill in the circles, but
being as anal as I am, I'm not really that satisfied as to how they
look.

Thanks again guy!

Mike

More about : touchup

Anonymous
September 28, 2005 11:02:35 PM

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Thats the nature of acrylics, I'm afraid. You'll have to sand with 600
dry to get it to blend and smooth out. I hope you're planning a clear
coat or that acrylic job will be shot within one game or one wax job or
even just a cleaning. For small touchups like this I prefer enamels like
Testors. They flow out smoothly and don't need a clear protective coat.

For insert circles I again use slightly thinned Testors gloss black
enamel and a red sable 00 brush. You just have to have a steady hand :) 
However, whats great about the enamels is that if you do make an uneven
circle you can use an Xacto knife with a #11 blade and carefully scrape
around the edges until the circle looks right. Note, I said scrape, not
cut or slice! :) 

NJ Mike wrote:
> I have a few areas where the paint has flaked off of the yellow areas
> of a Surf Champ. I have tried touching up with water based acrylics,
> but the surface always looks rough and bumpy afterwards. Granted,
> I've got my magnifier specs on, and the texture doesn't look bad from
> normal playing distance, but I would like some advice on how to get a
> smoother touchup. I have considered a air brush, but don't want to
> spent about $100 on a job that is all of about 1 sq inch total. Also,
> I don't want to clear the entire PF afterwards.
>
> While I'm on the topic, there is the same type of wear around the
> inserts. Is there a good way to get real nice black circles around
> them? I'm currently using a paint pen to fill in the circles, but
> being as anal as I am, I'm not really that satisfied as to how they
> look.
>
> Thanks again guy!
>
> Mike
>

--
Cliffy - CARGPB2
A passion for pinball!
http://www.passionforpinball.com
Anonymous
September 28, 2005 11:20:55 PM

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Take a look at the results Cliffy has got on his site if you doubt the
sage advice. Personally, I use a 1/0 synthetic brush that is designed
for use with oil based paints, available at your local Michaels or
Aaron Bros. Red sable holds more paint but repeated cleanings in paint
thinner eventually attacks the glue that attaches the bristles and they
start to "fan" out. The Testors paints flow better, dry better and
faster, are twice as hard and smooth as acrylics, you can cover large
areas without brush marks, (see Cliffy's method on "spreading the
paint") and you can scrape without the entire touchup coming up. If you
want to auto clearcoat afterward, well, you're SOL, but that's the way
it flows.
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Anonymous
September 28, 2005 11:44:05 PM

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Acyrlics are great for beginning touch up artists like yourself.
But they do not look right unless you are willing to clearcoat!
Their texture and gloss will be a lot different than a stock
playfield finish. After a clearcoat that all evens out and
they look great. But the key is the clearcoat. Also acrylics
won't hold up to any play wear without a clearcoat to protect it.

If you don't want to go the clearcoat route, you pretty much
have to use either lacquer or Testors enamels. There's no
choice really. Though Testors is a lot harder to work with
(no easy water clean up when you make a mistake, paints are
more expensive, less colors available), they are far more
durable than acrylics. And they have a similar gloss to the
stock playfield. Testors works great if you aren't clearcoating.

For black insert lines personally i use Black Lacquer when
i won't be doing any clearcoating, as that is the same finish
as the stock playfield originally used. It also has good gloss
and wear properties. Better than Testors enamels because it
actually 'melts' (bonds) to the original clearcoat finish.

NJ Mike wrote:
> I have a few areas where the paint has flaked off of the yellow areas
> of a Surf Champ. I have tried touching up with water based acrylics,
> but the surface always looks rough and bumpy afterwards. Granted,
> I've got my magnifier specs on, and the texture doesn't look bad from
> normal playing distance, but I would like some advice on how to get a
> smoother touchup. I have considered a air brush, but don't want to
> spent about $100 on a job that is all of about 1 sq inch total. Also,
> I don't want to clear the entire PF afterwards.
>
> While I'm on the topic, there is the same type of wear around the
> inserts. Is there a good way to get real nice black circles around
> them? I'm currently using a paint pen to fill in the circles, but
> being as anal as I am, I'm not really that satisfied as to how they
> look.
>
> Thanks again guy!
>
> Mike
Anonymous
September 29, 2005 5:58:27 AM

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

If you add what is called "reducer" (I think that's the term - check the
aisles in the craft store) to the paint that will thin it, increase the drying
time, and allow the paint to level more so the brush strokes may not be as
noticeable.

But nothing will compare to the appearance of a sprayed-on finish. If you
have a Michael's or an AC Moore in your are they frequently have 50% off one
item coupons in the newspaper. I used one on a decent Badger air brush.

If you feel like experimenting look for a "Preval" sprayer; it's a small
bottle with an attached compressed air supply. It's a one-time use thing
(throw it away when the compressed air supply runs out), but it's not all that
expensive.

Joseph "Tony" Dziedzic

In article <1127957069.349926.170450@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>, "NJ Mike"
<mikeb58@gmail.com> wrote:
>I have a few areas where the paint has flaked off of the yellow areas
>of a Surf Champ. I have tried touching up with water based acrylics,
>but the surface always looks rough and bumpy afterwards. Granted,
>I've got my magnifier specs on, and the texture doesn't look bad from
>normal playing distance, but I would like some advice on how to get a
>smoother touchup. I have considered a air brush, but don't want to
>spent about $100 on a job that is all of about 1 sq inch total. Also,
>I don't want to clear the entire PF afterwards.
>
>While I'm on the topic, there is the same type of wear around the
>inserts. Is there a good way to get real nice black circles around
>them? I'm currently using a paint pen to fill in the circles, but
>being as anal as I am, I'm not really that satisfied as to how they
>look.
>
>Thanks again guy!
>
>Mike
>
September 29, 2005 3:41:13 PM

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

On Wed, 28 Sep 2005 18:24:29 -0700, NJ Mike wrote:

> I have a few areas where the paint has flaked off of the yellow areas
> of a Surf Champ. I have tried touching up with water based acrylics,
> but the surface always looks rough and bumpy afterwards. Granted,
> I've got my magnifier specs on, and the texture doesn't look bad from
> normal playing distance, but I would like some advice on how to get a
> smoother touchup. I have considered a air brush, but don't want to
> spent about $100 on a job that is all of about 1 sq inch total. Also,
> I don't want to clear the entire PF afterwards.
>

you say it's for 1sq inch, but what about the next pin? and the one after
that etc etc

if you can swing it buy an airbrush. double action, top loading is the
nicest stuff, siphon just wastes paint and is more of a pain to clean up.

if you can't afford one right now, find a project pin, fix'n'flip it and
put the profit towards the airbrush :) 

get something like an Iwata HP-C, will last you for ever.

henri
Anonymous
September 29, 2005 6:04:52 PM

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Henri...good point. There is always the "next pin"!

Thanks everyone for some really great input!

BTW, who is going to York?

Mike
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