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heat sink woes

  • CPUs
Last response: in CPUs
a b à CPUs
March 29, 2001 10:59:02 PM

parts for my kinda new system are starting to arrive;already got: 3 sticks pc133 ca2, geforce2mx w/twinview(necessary for work),the ol' box,, cdr, cd, fdd, hdd and case. tomorrow comes 900 tbird and msi k7t turbo. today i got the fop32 and arctic silver. 2 questions please:#1 do i scrape the little pad off the bottom of the heatsink before applying arctic silver, and #2 the hold down clip on the heatsink seems awfully tight, does it hurt to flatten out a bit? ol' box was celery 466 and is maxed with twinview. your help and any suggestions would be appreciated. i'm an old fart but i do like to play aoe, reaction times way too slow for others lol

More about : heat sink woes

a b à CPUs
March 29, 2001 11:01:05 PM

on my duron

i had to flatten the metal clips

even with bending it lots
it was still VERY tight
take it slow and easy
and u will be ok

Also im not sure about taking the thermal tape off of the heatsink
March 29, 2001 11:20:29 PM

Use a razor blade to completely remove the pad if you are going to use Artic Silver.
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March 29, 2001 11:24:15 PM

Yep, you remove the pad first. One thing that you can do that will take 3-5 degrees C off your temps is to sand the bottom of the heatsink slightly... Start off with some 600 grit, and then move to 1200 and then 1500. Get it as smooth as you can as this will minimize the air gaps and the amount of arctic silver you'll need, providing for better heat transfer.

Really love your peaches wanna shake your tree.
a b à CPUs
March 30, 2001 12:33:03 AM

thank you all very much, i can hardly wait for tomorrow to put it all together, i have rouge wheels so will polish the bottom
March 30, 2001 2:14:40 AM


two things I'd suggest:

1. Make sure your heat sink is flat before you polish it. If it's already really flat, polishing is a good idea. Getting it flat i.e. removing any extrusion, casting or machining marks first is probably more important than a super polished surface. Remember, the goal is to bring the hsf surface into intimate contact with the flat core. If the hsf's shiny but not flat, you will have a gap. That's not good.

2. Make sure you remove any waxy material left on the base when you're done polishing. I think theres often some waxy binder in the rouge. You want nothing but that super thin layer of Arctic Silver between the hsf base and the core.

Have fun, and don't it get all over the CPU :smile: .


the more I learn, the less I'm sure I know... :eek: