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1.333GHz Athlon Heatsink

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Anonymous
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April 13, 2001 6:28:23 PM

Can someone tell me what kind of heatsink comes with the retail version 1.333GHz Athlon CPU? I'm trying to decide if I should get the retail version for $264 or the one from http://www.allstarcomponents.com/tbird.html with an ultra fan/oversize heatsink for $272 - it also has a 3 year warranty on the CPU just like the retail version. Thanks.

-Votinh

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Anonymous
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April 13, 2001 7:26:02 PM

Checked out that website. I really don't like that they omitted any mention of the manufacturor of the fans/heat sinks especially since I don't recognize them by sight. Yeah it may have a warranty but I would recommend going someplace where you get all the important information so you can check out how good that heatsink and fan really are. I'm betting it's just a generic and no better than what comes with the retail 1.333GHz Athlon. BTW, I think AMD puts CoolerMaster heatsink and fans in the retail boxes. They're acceptable as long as you don't want to overclock but you won't see temps as low as people on this forum are getting. If you really want a good cooling solution, I'd get the chip on its own and order a good heat sink from somewhere.
Anonymous
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April 13, 2001 9:23:34 PM

Thanks. I think I'll get the OEM version instead. Speaking of heatsink/fan... which one do you recommend? I plan on o'clocking it too. Thanks again.

-Votinh
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April 14, 2001 1:23:42 AM

Your mobo plays a big role in your choice of an HSF (some have more room around the socket than others)!
Anonymous
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April 14, 2001 3:03:37 AM

Yea I got the retail box 1.33ghz, threw the heatSTINK in my stockpile and replaced it with a real heatsink (side note: even if you buy the retail version processor w/hsf as soon as u started the machine without the crap retail processor on it the 3 yr warranty is voided).

I highly recommend the Thermoengine heatsink with a black label delta fan on it. Not only is it dead sexy looking it does a good job AND you can use the TIM (pre-stuck-on thermal pad) which prevents you from killing your processor slightly and also surprisingly works better than arctic silver (only in the case of the thermonengine HSF , otherwise go for the arctic silver). I havent seen my system got over 35c yet even being loaded to hell on sisoft sandra.

I got my HSF and Case from 3dcool.com (case is tornado 3002 black server tower w/ the (3) 92mm delta fans)

Best of Luck,
_RK_
Anonymous
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April 14, 2001 2:17:15 PM

Onto the question of heatsink compound... Is artic silver really better at conducting heat than the stuff you can get at your local Radio Shack which is made of silicone and zinc oxide?

-Votinh
April 14, 2001 4:33:17 PM

Yes, much better. It has been proven.

-----------------

All your RAMBUS are belong t............ ahh screw it
April 15, 2001 5:28:53 AM

OK I have to ask, what is the temp of the room where your PC is? I mean dam my house is at 38C how am I supposed to get my CPU below that? I have my AC set at 75F so here in AZ I don't want too high of a bill.

Crap, all the good ones are already taken.
April 15, 2001 4:53:27 PM

If you room is 38C then you're SOL.

On the plus side if your AC is set to 75F then your room is 27 degrees (assuming your AC meets it's desired setting.)

That is not too bad, but hotter than most people would have their rooms. If you can get your case to keep really good airflow - you will find that you should be okay.

Oh yeah - if your using AC - watch your humidty. If your humidity is too low, the air has less water vapour and therefore less capacity to absorb heat. It will get hot, but will take less heat to get there. Also low humidty = static central. Keep your humidty around 40-50% if possible.

If you cannot manage any of this, and you are really worried about it, start thinking vapochill. But with high deltas between system and ambient temperature start thinking condensation too...

-* This Space For Rent *-
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April 15, 2001 5:57:43 PM

Unfortunately humitidy is a no no if you're watercooling or using a peltier. :frown:

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Time is never time at all. You can never ever leave, without leaving a piece of you.
April 15, 2001 6:30:27 PM

unless, I guess, your system is really well insulated? It would seem strange that you'd need to insulate your cpu and rig - but I guess that's what's needed!

-* This Space For Rent *-
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April 15, 2001 6:47:42 PM

yeah, i am thinking of putting it in it's own separate room and put a humidifier in there and make the room air tight. this may be going a little too far.... hehe

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Time is never time at all. You can never ever leave, without leaving a piece of you.
Anonymous
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April 15, 2001 6:58:39 PM

LOL, I love the idea. Why don't you make your room so you can control the pressure, then you can you keep the dust, radiation, toxic waste particles...All that stuff out. I think I'm gonna do this!

Aklein
Life is hard...Live with it.
April 15, 2001 7:00:16 PM

I am not producing CPUs in there........ hehe

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Time is never time at all. You can never ever leave, without leaving a piece of you.
April 16, 2001 3:57:28 AM

I noticed that after I posted. I guess my case heats up to 38 real fast and then stays there. Good thing is it never goes higher than that. What I worry about is that my CPU runs at 48-58 between idle and load. I use the retial HS/Fan so that be the problem. I really shouldn't worry I don't think because AMD says the 1.33 can go to 90C. I just see all these guys with theres never going over 40-45 and makes me wonder why mine is so hot. How do I get my case cooler? I have 1 80mm intake and 1 80mm exhaust, plus the PS Exhaust. I use the Enlight 7237, it has no other spaces for more fans. Not to mention that the room it is in tends to warm up along with the PC hehe.

Crap, all the good ones are already taken.
April 16, 2001 4:13:32 AM

I think that when AMD say their CPU will work to 90 degrees - they mean it won't instantly burn up below that. Above 50-60 degrees expect (although difficult to proove) shorter cpu life.

Also, if your case temp is up in the high 30s - what about everything else in your system. HDDs will fail more often, new video cards are hot - sometimes really hot, CD drives will have more errors. Generally good computing temperatures are 18-25 degrees C. That's what you'll find most datacenters at. They are at that temp for a reason - it reduces wear and tear on hardware.

Retail HSF on a 133 will definitely be your problem. Get a decent fan - there are enough reviews around at the moment - and for the most case, use artic silver as your compund, not the little pad on the heatsink.

Not sure about your case, but my system has 4 x 80mm fans (2 in, 2 out) and can just about keep things in the high 20s at full load. I think you'll need a good system with that 133 in there.

-* This Space For Rent *-
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April 16, 2001 4:19:30 AM

Hey - how much cooling capagity does a small fridge (or freezer) have?

Everyone get's on their horse about immersion in LN2 and such - what really is to stop you putting your rig in a fridge, with a small cable run built in? It'd be quiet too. You wouldn't need sides on the case, only a chassis to hold it together and probably only the CPU and vid card fan for extra airflow. You could even keep the psu (or other selected peripherals (floppy and CD) outside to avoid opening the door and getting condensation.

Is this really so far off base?

Okay - I'm sure I've not worked out all the angles yet but...

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April 16, 2001 7:45:58 AM

Yeah I thought about getting a different HS/Fan. Maybe I'll do that and get artic silver2. Oh and about the refrigerator, I wouldn't do that if I was you unless of course you want a fried system. refrigerators will consate on your system and then short its components out. Oh and also thx for opening my eyes as to what other components may be damaged from the heat, I didn't even think of that. But I wont get my case below 24c because my house is set at 75F, and the room tends to heat up some from my system alone.

Crap, all the good ones are already taken.
April 16, 2001 2:18:22 PM

Hey - I never thought of that. A fridge would be perfect! And since cold stuff doens't rise, it should stay in there longer. I got a good idea.... cut part of the freezer part out, so it's like an ice cube tray. in the freezer part now, put the LN2. in the other, have a humidifier...... I like this. I like this a lot :smile:

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Time is never time at all. You can never ever leave, without leaving a piece of you.
April 16, 2001 5:22:05 PM

Griz - I wasn't planning on wandering down the LN2 road just yet - just seriously cooling my rig.

LN2 would help displace air => moisture out of the fridge though....

I think there is real mileage here. How many watts of heat can a smallish fridge extract? Got to be more than a CPU and Vid card - right? Look at the size of the heat exchanger on the back.

Phase 2 can be an old trunk freezer, modded up. If your fridge/freezer is coping okay, you could run more than 1 rig. It would be easy enough to mount multiple mobos in the fridge...

Cost of an old fridge? $50 tops? Gotta be worth a try. Just pop a 100W lamp in there with it running and see what temps it gives. If it stays 5-10 C you got a REALLY cold PC case that's really quiet. If it has a freezer compartment you can even keep popsicles., or disable it and use it as your CD case or something...

Griz - you're the home DIY expert/engineer - what do you think?

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April 16, 2001 7:33:45 PM

I may have missed this, but what about condensation?

And another thought - if you were to do this, you would just need a normal heatsink/fan operation for you CPU cooling becuase, well, the room temp is like 7C.

From now on when someone asks you how fast your computer is, tell them your benchmark scores.
April 16, 2001 10:44:21 PM

okay - realistically condensation will be an issue. Best protection = don't open the door. => put peripherals and power switch outside fridge.

We will be well advide to put some silicone around the place to really protect ourselves - but as long as the door stays shut... Also the mobo ought to be warmer than everything else in the fridge - so condensation should form on the back wall and elements, not on the mobo.

I think you'll still want a hsf and vid cooler just to get the airflow. They'll be inside a nice sound-proof box and we can probably forget delta fans for something a bit quieter anyway. Also, the air being that much cooler and more humid has better cooling propertires...

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