Can you get Thunderbird 1.33 AXIA ????

Does the Thunderbird 1.33 GHz FSB 266 come in AXIA type?
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  1. All 1.33 Ghz Athlons have the AXIA stepping.
  2. Cool thanks.

    I have an ASUS A7M266 what is a safe speed to over clock it to? I have a CoolerMaster EP5-6I11 heatsink & fan, ( says it covers a 1.33 GHz.

    Also how important is the thermal paste. on the back of the heatsink there is a little square or brown stuff what is that?

    Cheers :)
  3. Can anybody help with these questions?
  4. I think the coolermaster is a rather average cooler.

    Really the best way is to try a few. I'm using a Swiftech 370 with delta fan at present, and although noisy keeps my cpu below 50 degrees. That's a 1.33@1.58.

    I've just ordered an MC462 and some new fans - I'm going to try a home cooling project and get some really low temps for a quiet cooler

    -* This Space For Rent *-
    email for application details
  5. I just built a system with a swiftech mc462-a cooler. Put it on an ASUS A7M266 mobo. Had to do some mods to get it to fit around the one stupid capacator thats in the area that's supposed to be free. I took a grinding wheel, gnawed off the corner, lost the corner screw for the delta fan, but that was easy to resolve.

    Go to a hardware store (or a marine outlet) and find some epoxy called MarineTex. This stuff is as hard as steel, and you can tap or die it if needed. Anyway, then go to the hardware store with the bolts, and find a bolt tha's a tad shorter than the one origionally used to hold the fan down, along with a nut or two.

    After you get all the necessary components, mix the expoxy (in emergency fix mode.. be quick.. this stuff sets in 10 mins ) drop the short bolt through the hole in the fan, attach a nut and run it up just a little bit. You want the nut to be resting against the aluminum posts. Now, epoxy the nut to the aluminum rods, being sure not to get the stuff on the bolt. After you get the epoxy on the nut and the rods, then carefuly thread the epoxy around the nut so the epoxy forms a complete loop around the nut and back to the aluminum columns. Wait about 30 mins, then tighten down the corner that's loose and your off to the races.

    The box I've been running has a 1.333 and I have yet to see the cpu above 38 C degrees. Um. the down side.. sounds like a small vaccume cleaner in there.. so either crank up your CD music, or wear ear plugs. It's definately one vicious cooler, but it does take some work to get it in.

    As for the thermal paste, Artic Silver is what I use. It definately does the trick! and yes, I made the mods to the MoBo to allow the overclocking on the A7M266.. I've had this one up to 1.8 and it's been rock solid. At 1.8 the hottest I've seen it get is a measily 44 C degrees. Not to bad for a home brew.

    Now, I'm also using an Antec SX-1240 case, with 6 case cooling fans for case ventalation, and this box sits right infront of a window that gets direct afternoon sun (it was 85 F degrees in the other day) and the bloody thing stays as cool as a well.. not ice cube.. but you get the idea...

    hope this helps!

    This beast is a little work, but well worth it!

    <font color=red>It's ewe n' me against the world, n' I think ewe are gonna get creamed</font color=red> :eek:
  6. Take it to 1500@150MHz bus, it should take it if you use the correct voltage and cool it properly.

    Cast not thine pearls before the swine
  7. That's exactly what my 1Ghz T-bird/K7-Master is clocked at. It hasn't crashed once since I finished tweaking the settings a few days ago.
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