they are cut from the factory, i think you mean connect. the thunderbird is easy. all you have to do is take a number two pencil, draw a thick line between the gaps, stick some tape over them and your done. the xp is a little harder. its the same principal to unlock but the pencil lead isnt conductive enough on the xps. you have to use some sort of conductive laquer. i did mine with rear window deffogger fixer. the tricky part with the xps is, there is a small dip burned in between the bridges, you have to fill it in with super glue then put the laquer over the bridges. you will need a steady hand and a magnifying glass. i used a jewlers eye, those suckers are small! there is a video here on toms hardware that shows in detail how to unlock the xp.
how do you shoot the devil in the back? what happens if you miss? -verbal
Thank you for taking the time to reply. The reason I'm asking about bridge CUTTING techniques, is that I may have to cut the left L10 bridge, then PAINT the right L10 bridge. Why?
You can force the hi multiplier bit ON to extend the mobo multiplier switch range up to 18x by cutting the existing L10 left bridge and painting the L10 right bridge.
The mobo DIP switches then set multiplier values 8 higher than they used to, so that a setting of 7.0x gives a multiplier of 15.0x.
The reason for attempting this is to use the AthlonXP processor with my A7V classic motherboard, but still realize the processor's MHZ potential.
I've thoroughly been over the AthlonXP bridge CONNECTING techniques. Although tricky, this delicate work will pose no problems for me. What I don't have is any "reliable" information on how to CUT the bridges. I'd hate to ruin a processor if I can help it. I've seen/read about techniques at OTHER sites, but I like to ask REAL people for their ideas and opinions. This has always been a helpful forum.
Anybody ever cut a bridge?