amd duron heat

[ZilentBob]

Hi

Does anyone know the normal operating temperature of AMD Duron 1300Mhz? Mine goes up to 59 Celsius and then it usually crashes or just freezes

 

[Artanis]

I heard, up to 55 its ok. So 59 is a bit high.

My Duron runs somewhere between 28 and 30 degrees.
I think you might want to get some extra cooling.

 

[ZilentBob]

Is yours 1300Mhz or something else? 30 degrees sees an awfully big difference!

Bob

 

[Artanis]

Well. Mine is a 700. But I overclocked it to 800, so its making some extra heat.

When I bought it, the guy told me I should worry about it, when it reaches 55 degrees.
You have a 1300, but I dont think you should go over 55 degrees either.
I used to run at around 40 degrees, but now I have the side panels removed.

 

[ZilentBob]

You could be right. One thing, pointing to thermal problem is that if I keep the machine off for a long period of time it takes longer for it to crash. If I boot it up several times in a short periond of time it crashes faster.

-Bob

 

[Artanis]

Since the computer uses more power, when its booting up, it also produces more heat.
What sort of cooling do u have? Fans, and where?
I assume, u have a CPU fan...

 

[Jaytee]

Artanis;
I used to have a Duron 1300, and mine also ran hot (not 59 though!). I bought a boxed (retail) cpu, which came with the Heatsink/Fan.
As soon as I replaced the stock HSF with a Volcano 7, the temps came down quite a bit, 40-ish I think, from high 40's/low 50's.

 

[Artanis]

Thats why my last question was, what kind of cooling does he have. The type of HSF can make quite a difference.

 

[ZilentBob]

I have a Thermaltake MiniSuperOrb which has 2 fans on top of each other. It is designed for AMD processors up to 1,5 Ghz

(http://www.thermaltake.com/products/orbs/minisuperorb.htm)

 

[ZilentBob]

ups, I also have a small fan over Northbridge. And normal fan in power. I don't have extra chassis fans.

 

[SidVicious]

I suggest you lower the VCORE voltage to lower your core temperature. I managed to undervolt my Duron Morgan 1GHz ( AHHAA ) to 1.325V and it's still fully stable. I get temps under 38 Celcius using a huge but nearly silent full cooper HSF from CyberCooler ( p-20000AC ).

To rule out software issues, run MSCONFIG and disable ALL startup group items. If you notice that the crashes go away after that, it will mean that you should take a close look at each of those programs because one is most likely causing the crash.

You should only worry about core temperature when your system crash after a predictable amount of time after booting. Try <A HREF="http://www.mersenne.org/freesoft.htm" target="_new">Prime95</A> torture option to test your system for stability. This distributed computing software can report the CPU calculation errors that usually happen when it is unstable due to undervolting, overclocking or overheating. If Prime95 does'nt crash a system after a while ( most errors will be detected after only a few seconds of torture test ) you can rule out CPU stability issues and look elsewhere.


Fok Speling Misstake

 

[baldurga]

It seems that heat is your problem, so let's attack it

My first recomendation would be improve airflow. Check around the net about rounding cables and case airflow. What is currently your ambient temperature? And the temp in your case? One easy way to see how much you need better airflow is the following:

a) Run your computer at full load (with programs like Prime95 or similar). Write three temps: CPU, mobo and room. Mobo and room shouldn't differ a lot.

b) Now open the case and make the same process. Room hasn't chance but mobo and CPU have gone up. The higher difference, the more you need to improve airflow. Note: don't expect to reach the same temps, this can be difficult and expensive.

If you want to invest low money and obtain good improvement, try to install in your case one fan in the bottom front blowing in and another one in the upper back blowing out.

Finally, I made some research about your HSF. It doesn't seem the best (also Orbs are not known for great cooling, but for good looking). Here you have a review that compare some HSF. Regreatebly, yours is the worst:

http://www.extremeoverclocking.com/reviews/cooling/HSR2_5.html

But changing the HSF would be the second step, at least IMO. Probably just with better airflow your computer can run ok. In case you are interested in purchase a new one, recently THG made a comparison:

http://www6.tomshardware.com/cpu/02q3/020916/index.html

Or you can search/ask in the forums. Lot of info.

Hope this helps!

DIY: read, buy, test, learn, reward yourself!

 

[ZilentBob]

Thanks! But I'm positive that it's not a software error because the machine freezes even in setup after 2 or 3 minutes. Maybe I try undervolting.

 

[Spitfire_x86]

I use a Duron 1 GHz with a cheap CoolerMaster HSF (don't know model number). Alluminium heatsink, no copper tip.

My Duron 1 GHz ran about 57C to 60C , max temp. was 63C (at default 1.74V) when I had a very compact case with no case fan. After lowering the voltage to 1.69V the temp lowerd to 55C to 57C, max 60C.

Now I have a good case, no case fan though. The temp is now 49C to 50C, max 51C. Changing the case helped me. Adding a case fan should help a bit more. And if I use a copper tip cooler (at least Volcano 6cu+, Volcano 7 is better). Unfortunately there is no copper tip cooler available in my country.

All temps are in nearly same climate.

Let us know <A HREF="http://forumz.tomshardware.com/community/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&p=25703#25703" target="_new"> What File compression format you use? </A>

 

[Spitfire_x86]

I managed to undervolt my Duron Morgan 1GHz ( AHHAA ) to 1.325V and it's still fully stable.

How have you managed such low voltage? From bios? My bios don't let me to ondervolt more than -0.05V of default voltage.

Let us know <A HREF="http://forumz.tomshardware.com/community/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&p=25703#25703" target="_new"> What File compression format you use? </A>

 

[mrwhipper]

Get rid of that Orb cooler. I know what they are rated to but they do a POOR job at cooling. Get a Volcano 7, 7+, or 9. Your temps will drop. Oh ya, make sure you have good case cooling. Take the cover off the case and check the temps again. YOu will notice some difference, but if it is huge work on the case air flow. Take care

Hang in there. It can only get better!

 

[SidVicious]

My rig is based on a A7V333-R, not the most user friendly motherboard but once you get to know how the jumper and BIOS settings interact with each other, you can do great things with it.

I tinkered with the JP1-4 jumpers that set the voltage range within which you can set the actual vcore in the BIOS when you're running the board on "jumperless" mode. Jumperless mode can be more accurately described as being "dipswitchless" because it only override the dipswitches that set the FSB and will disable some user defined settings in the BIOS.

The best part is that I'm running this CPU on a 166MHz FSB. Unfortunately, I had to lower my PC2100 memory timing to keep the system stable, i'll keep it that way until I pick up some faster memory. I don't think my CPU is an oddity because I built a similar system for a friend ( similar because he is using genuine PC2700 memory, a more recent revision of the A7V333-R and a Duron Morgan AHLCA @ 1.2GHz ) and his system is stable on a Vcore of 1.400V and a 166MHz FSB.

Changing a HSF can be tricky and/or dangerous to the CPU and motherboard and will cost money, undervolting is free if your motherboard allow it and testing stability afterward can be done with freeware programs easely available on the net.


Fok Speling Misstake