Where to find a site on installing cap kits and repairing ..

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Guest

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Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Not that i'm going to try and attempt installing a cap kit or even work
on a monitor(Electricity and I don't get along to well) just looking
for a good read and what it takes to do all of this. Wondering what
needs to be done when discharging a monitor. Once again, not going to
try this, last thing i want is to be killed by an Arcade Machine. A
site with pics would be great since i would like to know where a lot of
things are located.

Mike
--
http://www.freewebs.com/arcadelinks/
 
G

Guest

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Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

So does anyone have any links to sites that have pics and explain how
to do it? The reason i'm looking for one with pics is because
everything you guys have said just went over my head. I have no idea
what or where the Rubber Cap is, or where or what the neck looks like.
Site with pics would help. So it can't really kill you huh?

Mike
--
http://www.freewebs.com/arcadelinks/
 
G

Guest

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Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

there's a dozen sites on the web about installing cap kits...

basically to discharge a monitor you just wrap a wire around a flat-head
screw driver... attach the other end to the frame (some people use clamps...
I just hold it so that it touches well (a long lead so there's good
contact).

stick the screwdriver under the rubber cap and if you hear a zap then it
discharged... you should WAIT about 30 secs and do it again... repeat until
you don't hear it any more... (charge will leach through the glass which is
why you need to re-discharge again).

NOTE: when you go to put the plug back in it's sometimes necessary to
discharge again BEFORE you plug it back in... (gently stick the screw driver
back into the hole where the clip on the plug goes... again, charge will
leach through and accumulate.

you won't kill yourself if the monitor isn't plugged in and you get
zapped... not enough charge... but it WILL hurt like a sob for a second or
two.

steve

you won't die from
"DarkMagister" <shadowspawn@chartermi.net> wrote in message
news:1114586742.432951.61950@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> Not that i'm going to try and attempt installing a cap kit or even work
> on a monitor(Electricity and I don't get along to well) just looking
> for a good read and what it takes to do all of this. Wondering what
> needs to be done when discharging a monitor. Once again, not going to
> try this, last thing i want is to be killed by an Arcade Machine. A
> site with pics would be great since i would like to know where a lot of
> things are located.
>
> Mike
> --
> http://www.freewebs.com/arcadelinks/
>
 
S

Scott

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Apr 1, 2004
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I don't use the ground wire myself. I got a flathead "electrician's
screwdriver" from the hardware store. The tool is covered in
non-conductive material all the way up to just under the tip. I stick
that under to discharge, wait, and check again.

I have been bit....actually got bit this weekend. Just a mild one,
though. I got hit by one a few years ago that knocked me cold, though,
so you CAN get hit hard.
 
T

Troy

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I've been bit pretty hard by one that was power up and running., making some
adjustments to it. didn't knock me out, but it did hurt.


Troy,


<scott@hyperspacearcade.com> wrote in message
news:1114638526.451922.146250@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
> I don't use the ground wire myself. I got a flathead "electrician's
> screwdriver" from the hardware store. The tool is covered in
> non-conductive material all the way up to just under the tip. I stick
> that under to discharge, wait, and check again.
>
> I have been bit....actually got bit this weekend. Just a mild one,
> though. I got hit by one a few years ago that knocked me cold, though,
> so you CAN get hit hard.
>
 
G

Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Ok I'll bit Troy,
Do I have to remove the entier monitor from a game drag it outside to
the customers garage, because there basement is carpeted and tell them
I will be back in a day or 2 when the monitor is discharged. And yes
99% of the time I do fix it right the first time.
It's not being a "Puss" it's being smart. Why take the risk of a zap
and slaming your hand against something when you do not have to. Some
peoples kids.

Yeah
 
G

Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

http://www.arcaderestoration.com/index.asp?OPT=3&DATA=4&CBT=3

http://www.beercade.com/video/monitors/monitors.htm

http://coinop.org/repair/Monitor_Tubeswap.aspx

I used to have other links but they disappeared into the Internet never
land. Apparently the sites aren't supported anymore. These links
should give you an idea of what parts are what and where to get parts.
If I find more links, I'll post them.

Pat D.

DarkMagister wrote:
> So does anyone have any links to sites that have pics and explain how
> to do it? The reason i'm looking for one with pics is because
> everything you guys have said just went over my head. I have no idea
> what or where the Rubber Cap is, or where or what the neck looks like.
> Site with pics would help. So it can't really kill you huh?
>
> Mike
> --
> http://www.freewebs.com/arcadelinks/
>
 
T

Troy

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I only work on my own monitors, with the exception of a few friends.
I've owned more games than you ever will, obviously.
so yes, I have time to let it discharge by it's self.
which is the best way I might add.
and yes, 9 times out of 10 I do remove the whole monitor.
I can work on it much better that way.
why would you need to remove the boards again after you fixed it, or think
you did?
if your slamming your hand all the time, maybe you should try that.
and I've never slammed my hand against anything that way.
I don't think I gave the guy bad advice as you state.
and what's your last line, your talking about my family now?
If you have something to say to me, say it.



Troy,



J & R <arcadeadventures@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1114643980.874475.69500@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
> Ok I'll bit Troy,
> Do I have to remove the entier monitor from a game drag it outside to
> the customers garage, because there basement is carpeted and tell them
> I will be back in a day or 2 when the monitor is discharged. And yes
> 99% of the time I do fix it right the first time.
> It's not being a "Puss" it's being smart. Why take the risk of a zap
> and slaming your hand against something when you do not have to. Some
> peoples kids.
>
> Yeah
>
 
G

Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Thanks for the links Pat, I will have to give them a look when i get
time. Had a guy that lives in the same state as me offer to let me
come down and watch him work on a monitor and try my luck on one of his
to get the feel for it. Might have to take him up on that. Do you
really need to take the monitor out of the game to discharge it and
install a cap kit? Don't really like the idea of having to unmount the
monitor and then have to put it back in. I'm not a puss myself when it
comes to doing this, but I have in the past been knocked off my feet
from getting shocked so bad, and seeing a friend of mine getting Zapped
and losing the feeling in one of his arms for half a day doesn't really
motivate me to want to mess with this stuck unless i really knock all
the facts on what i'm doing.

P.S.-Let stop the fighting for once here. Would like to have one
posting that doesn't have people bitching at each other and name
calling. I see enough of that on here as it is.

Mike
--
http://www.freewebs.com/arcadelinks/
 
T

Troy

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Do you
> really need to take the monitor out of the game to discharge it and
> install a cap kit?

No you don't. but if you can help it. dont power it up right before removing
the chassis. The longer it sat without powering it, the better.

I dont think i gave you bad adivce. so when some jerk comes in here saying I
did.
he can bring it on. never seen him before this post by the way.

I'm sure he's worked on many mom and pop's monitor jobs



Troy,
 
G

Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

???

ok... i'm a little bit confused as to what you're actaully doing here...

you say you're simply discharging the anode into the aquadang on the
monitor? If so this is probably not the best thing to be doing... the
problem is that the aquadang can easily be washed/scraped/worn of a monitor.
This is particularly true around the second anode entry point as there has
probably been more rubbing on this particular area then any other place.
You're basically betting that you're contacting the anode and the aquadang
simultaneously which (especially since it's blind) may not be assured.

Gotta figure that if you're going to bother to discharge the tube you might
as well do it right and discharge to a good known ground / sink.

<scott@hyperspacearcade.com> wrote in message
news:1114638526.451922.146250@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
>I don't use the ground wire myself. I got a flathead "electrician's
> screwdriver" from the hardware store. The tool is covered in
> non-conductive material all the way up to just under the tip. I stick
> that under to discharge, wait, and check again.
>
> I have been bit....actually got bit this weekend. Just a mild one,
> though. I got hit by one a few years ago that knocked me cold, though,
> so you CAN get hit hard.
>
 
G

Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

you're lucky... powered up and running can easily kill you...

defribulators start at 200 J...

a fly plugged into the wall... damn...

"Troy" <troyl@lvcm.com> wrote in message news:W2Ube.248$6f3.68@fed1read07...
> I've been bit pretty hard by one that was power up and running., making
> some
> adjustments to it. didn't knock me out, but it did hurt.
>
>
> Troy,
>
>
> <scott@hyperspacearcade.com> wrote in message
> news:1114638526.451922.146250@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
>> I don't use the ground wire myself. I got a flathead "electrician's
>> screwdriver" from the hardware store. The tool is covered in
>> non-conductive material all the way up to just under the tip. I stick
>> that under to discharge, wait, and check again.
>>
>> I have been bit....actually got bit this weekend. Just a mild one,
>> though. I got hit by one a few years ago that knocked me cold, though,
>> so you CAN get hit hard.
>>
>
>
 
G

Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

I am not looking to get into a pissing match with you Troy. A lot of
times it is impractical to remove the entier monitor. Why not BE SAFE
than SORRY.Especialy when someone is just starting out capping
monitors. Look at all of the articles about proper handling of picture
tubes. From RCA to Sony all of there classes and buletins/manuals
stress "Safety First". "It's not the shock that kills you it's the
fall". Some people might not be able to handle the shock . Thats all I
was trying to stress. It dose not make you a puss if you discharge the
tube first. And like you I have worked on to many monitors over the
past X amont of years.
The slaming of ones hand is a reaction to being shocked and pulling
away. I would rather be back at Sony working on Monitors at a bench on
a cart infront of me than in a basement or a bar behind a machine
somedays. I feel somedays all I Ever do is work on monitors. 99% of
ther time thats what is wrong with the machine. I love aN ocasional
coke spill in a track ball/buttons. I apoligies for the slams. have a
nice weekend.

J & R
 
T

Troy

Distinguished
Sep 26, 2003
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I like to remove the monitors so that I can work on them on my bench.
that way after the repair they can be tested on bench and any adjustments
can be made.
I hate putting my hand in the back of a game while trying to see the front
of the tube with a mirror while making the adjustment. It's easy to lose
track of where your hand is. But with games like tempest, you have to do it
in game.



Troy,



J & R <arcadeadventures@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1114695459.548784.248960@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
> I am not looking to get into a pissing match with you Troy. A lot of
> times it is impractical to remove the entier monitor. Why not BE SAFE
> than SORRY.Especialy when someone is just starting out capping
> monitors. Look at all of the articles about proper handling of picture
> tubes. From RCA to Sony all of there classes and buletins/manuals
> stress "Safety First". "It's not the shock that kills you it's the
> fall". Some people might not be able to handle the shock . Thats all I
> was trying to stress. It dose not make you a puss if you discharge the
> tube first. And like you I have worked on to many monitors over the
> past X amont of years.
> The slaming of ones hand is a reaction to being shocked and pulling
> away. I would rather be back at Sony working on Monitors at a bench on
> a cart infront of me than in a basement or a bar behind a machine
> somedays. I feel somedays all I Ever do is work on monitors. 99% of
> ther time thats what is wrong with the machine. I love aN ocasional
> coke spill in a track ball/buttons. I apoligies for the slams. have a
> nice weekend.
>
> J & R
>
 
G

Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

I don't think anyone has given any bad advice on here. Or at least
that i know of since i've never fixed one.... :) I've had some people
send me links to sites on fixing monitors, and I thank everyone that
has.

What is this slamming of hand thing you keep talking about? Figure of
speech or does it relate to fixing monitors?

Mike
 
G

Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Lol....ok....thats what i figured it was but wanted to be sure.

Mike
 
G

Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

I don't always pull a monitor to work on it. I pull the Sanyo 20ez's
because they are just a friggin pain to snake all the wires around to
get teh chassis out. I also tend to spray the whole monitor down with
Simple Green and then spray it with the hose and let it sit in the hot
Texas sun to dry it out. I also use compressed air to blow any
remaining water out of ALL crevices and parts. I usually put the whole
thing in front of a box fan in the garage and let the warm air from the
Hot garage blow over the parts to amek sure it is dry.

Most other monitors I just discharge and pull the chassis to work on it.
I do pull the entire WG6100 monitor and other XY's to work on the
transistors. Just about everything else I leave in the cabinet unless
it is absolutely filthy. But then, I have plenty of spare tubes to plug
these chassis into to test them before I put them back into the cabinet.

Sorry for the late reply, I've been gone.

Pat D.

Pat D wrote:
> http://www.arcaderestoration.com/index.asp?OPT=3&DATA=4&CBT=3
>
> http://www.beercade.com/video/monitors/monitors.htm
>
> http://coinop.org/repair/Monitor_Tubeswap.aspx
>
> I used to have other links but they disappeared into the Internet never
> land. Apparently the sites aren't supported anymore. These links
> should give you an idea of what parts are what and where to get parts.
> If I find more links, I'll post them.
>
> Pat D.
>
> DarkMagister wrote:
>
>> So does anyone have any links to sites that have pics and explain how
>> to do it? The reason i'm looking for one with pics is because
>> everything you guys have said just went over my head. I have no idea
>> what or where the Rubber Cap is, or where or what the neck looks like.
>> Site with pics would help. So it can't really kill you huh?
>>
>> Mike
>> --
>> http://www.freewebs.com/arcadelinks/
>>
 
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