TOOBIN' to JAMMA instructions

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

I went ahead and updated my document a bit to add additional info

such as connector types and the like. LMK if you find any errors,

omissions, typos, etc.



--
-Steve P.


All messages are scanned with Norton Anti-Virus








======================

= TOOBIN' to JAMMA =

======================



04.29.05 - Steve Prendergast (stevepren-newsgroups@yahoo.com)

05.03.05 - Cleaned up text and added additional information



TOOBIN' pinouts are from Atari schematics package SP-320

Thanks to Steve Muccione for suggesting use of the 74LS02 to convert

the SYNC to CSYNC.



---------------------------------------------------------------

- TOOBIN' REQUIRES A EGA MEDIUM RESOLUTION (24khz) MONITOR -

---------------------------------------------------------------





DISCLAIMER: Use this document AT YOUR OWN RISK! I've tried to keep

this document as error free as possible, but no guarantees of any

kind are made. I take no responsibility for any injury or equipment

damage that may result from following the information in this document.

This document assumes that the reader is somewhat familiar with making

PCB adapters. If you're not familiar with the technical side of arcade

machines and/or electronics, you might want to find someone who is qualified

to create this adapter for you.





==========================

TECHNICAL NOTES AND MISC =

==========================



You can get away with wiring up just the PWR and VID connections on the main

game PCB to test video output (and to verify whether or not your "untested"

$20 eBay board actually works). You'll still need to wire in the 7402 to
get

the video sync corrected to do this. You have to wire up the Atari stand

alone audio PCB if you plan on actually playing the game though. The audio

board handles not only the sound (it has a game specific sound ROM on it at

location 2K) but also has the test mode switch and lastly it has a 6502A on

it that controls the coin adders for the game. You can bypass the need for

the coin adders by putting the game into FREE PLAY but you still need the

audio PCB wired up to get into the test mode setup to change the settings.



The inter-board connectors used by Atari are nothing fancy. You will need
an

AMP .084 6 position (3 position in 2 rows) connector for the PWR connector
on

the main PCB. The other connectors are noted next to the connector name and

are just common Molex inline .100 or .156 connectors. I think just about

everything needed should be easily available from Bob Roberts.



I use cut up JAMMA harnesses for my wiring but you can use whatever you
want.

I do suggest using 18g wire for power connections and 20g for the remainder.

I prefer using a hacked up JAMMA harness for the multitude of color

combinations it offers as well as the 18g/20g wire combo. I hate adapter

harnesses that are all one color - if I have to troubleshoot something, I

want to easily be able to figure out what wire goes where and don't want

to have to sort through 10 red wires to do so. You'll also need a JAMMA

friendly 28/56 "type 1" (as Bob Roberts calls it) fingerboard. The

fingerboard will plug into your cabinets existing JAMMA harness. All of

the wires fed from the Toobin' boards will solder directly onto the various

pads of the fingerboard just be aware that some connections are only made

between the main game and audio PCBs and are not sent to the JAMMA harness

- these connections are noted in the text. In case your JAMMA harness is

not marked, I have included a standard JAMMA pinout at the end of this

document for reference.











==============

MAIN CPU PCB =

==============





VID (11 position .100 inline connector - key at #3 position)

-----

1 RED

2

3 KEY

4 GREEN

5

6 BLUE

7

8 VID GND

9

10 VSYNC

11 HSYNC



This is the VIDEO connection. RED, BLUE, GREEN, and VID GND all wire
directly

into the JAMMA adapter fingerboard, but see my notes below as you'll need to

add a 74LS02 chip to the wiring to convert the HSYNC/VSYNC to JAMMA friendly

CSYNC (which is sometimes just referred to as "SYNC" on JAMMA
pinouts/harness

labels).







PWR (AMP .84 3 position/2 row male connector)

------

1 +5 (SENSE) 4 GND (SENSE)

2 +5 5 GND

3 +5 6 GND



This is your POWER connection. Use an AMP .084 6 position male connector -

positions 1 through 3 are located along the edge of the PCB and are all +5v.

Positions 4 through 6 are all GND connections and are all located on the PCB

side of the connector. I did not bother to wire in the SENSE connections
but

doing so will not cause any harm. These all wire to the necessary positions

on your JAMMA adapter fingerboard using 18g wire.







AUD (11 position .100 inline connector - key at #5 position)

-----------

1 TEST

2 GND

3 AUDAT

4 FULL

5 KEY

6 AUD FLAG

7 AUD CLK

8 GND

9 GND

10 +5

11 +5



This is an INTER-BOARD connection - wire all to corresponding positions on
audio

PCB connector "JSCOM"





SWA (11 position .100 inline connector - key at #2 position)

-------

1 GND

2 KEY

3 (RIGHT) FORWARD RIGHT (P2 BUTTON 5)

4 (RIGHT) FORWARD LEFT (P2 BUTTON 4)

5 (RIGHT) BACK LEFT (P2 BUTTON 1)

6 (RIGHT) BACK RIGHT (P2 BUTTON 2)

7 (LEFT) FORWARD RIGHT (P1 BUTTON 5)

8 (LEFT) FORWARD LEFT (P1 BUTTON 4)

9 (LEFT) BACK LEFT (P1 BUTTON 1)

10 (LEFT) BACK RIGHT (P1 BUTTON 2)

11 GND



This is part 1 of the control panel wiring - wire all to the necessary
positions

on your JAMMA adapter fingerboard.





SWB (11 position .100 inline connector - key at #2 position)

--------

1 GND

2 KEY

3 (RIGHT PLAYER) START/THROW CAN (P2 BUTTON 3)

4 (LEFT PLAYER) START/THROW CAN (P1 BUTTON 3)

5

6

7

8

9

10

11



This is part 2 of the control panel wiring - wire all to the necessary
positions

on your JAMMA adapter fingerboard.



NOTE: You can alter the SWA/SWB wiring as needed for your application. For
my

harness, I have player "LEFT" wired into my cabinet as player one and player

"RIGHT" is wired to player two. I have a 6 button JAMMA PLUS cabinet, so I
am

able to closely wire the buttons to mimic the original layout of the
dedicated

control panel. Buttons 4 and 5 are wired into the auxiliary "kick" harness
in

my cabinet via a Molex connector. You can alter this as needed for your

particular needs.





===========

AUDIO PCB =

===========



ACDC (12 position .156 inline connector - key at #11 position)

---------

1

2

3

4

5

6

7 GND

8

9 +12

10 +12

11 KEY

12



This is the audio board POWER connection. Wire all to the necessary
positions on

your JAMMA adapter fingerboard using 18g wire unless you are planning on

incorporating 12VAC - see my notes below.



NOTE: Atari calls for 12VAC and not +12v but since 12VAC isn't normally
available

in a JAMMA cabinet, +12v will suffice. The game sounds might be a little
off by

using +12v though. I added 12VAC to my wiring loom via a Radio Shack
adjustable

replacement power pack for AT&T answering machines or you could always add a

transformer to output the 12VAC. If the game sounds are really lacking, you
can

always look at adding true 12VAC to your wiring.





JSCOM (11 position .100 inline connector - key at #5 position)

-------------

1 TEST

2 GND

3 AUDAT

4 FULL

5 KEY

6 AUD FLAG

7 AUD CLK

8 GND

9 GND

10 +5

11 +5



This is an INTER-BOARD connection - wire all to corresponding positions on
main

PCB connector "AUD"





JSKPR (6 position .156 inline connector - key at #3 position)

---------

1

2 SPKR -

3 KEY

4

5 SPKR +

6



Speaker connections - wire to the necessary positions on your JAMMA adapter

fingerboard.





JCOIN (6 position .100 inline connector - key at #5 position)

----------

1

2

3 COIN2

4 COIN1

5 KEY

6 GND



This is your coin adder connections - wire all to the necessary positions on
your

JAMMA adapter fingerboard. If you plan on only using FREE PLAY, you can
omit these.





JCDL (2 position .156 inline connector - not keyed)

----------

1 +5V

2 GND



Supplies power to the coin door on the dedicated Toobin' cabinet - not
needed for

converting Toobin' to JAMMA but included here for reference/completeness.
Your

JAMMA cabinet should already have the coin door wired.





CC-/CC+

--------



The dedicated Toobin' cabinet coin counter connectors are a set of terminals
on the

audio board marked "CC- and "CC+". You can probably ignore wiring these up
entirely

since the self-test feature of the game board already tracks coin statistics
(among

other things). I mention it here just for reference as to what they are and
where

they are located.





========

74LS02 =

========



__ __

TO CSYNC 1--| U |--8 TO +5v

FROM VSYNC 2--| |--9

FROM HSYNC 3--| |--10

4--| |--11

5--| |--12

6--| |--13

TO GND 7--|_____|--14



The HSYNC and VSYNC comes from the VID connector on the main PCB. Note the
notch in

the 74LS02 chip - pin 1 is to the LEFT of the notch and pin 7 is to the
RIGHT. Feed

the VSYNC to pin 2 and the HSYNC to pin 3. This will combine the sync and
output as

CSYNC, which is what the JAMMA harness is looking for. Send the CSYNC to
the JAMMA

adapter fingerboard via pin 1. Pin 7 goes to GND on the JAMMA adapter
fingerboard

and pin 8 goes to +5v on the fingerboard. I have my 7402 held into my loom
with a

zip tie. There are probably a million variations on adding this chip to
your wiring

loom.









====================

JAMMA PINOUTS =

====================





PARTS SOLDER

---------------|---------------

GND 1|1 GND

GND 2|2 GND

+5V 3|3 +5V

+5V 4|4 +5V

-5V 5|5 -5V

+12V 6|6 +12V

KEY 7|7 KEY

COUNTER 1 8|8 COUNTER 2

C LOCKOUT 1 9|9 C LOCKOUT 2

SPEAKER 10|10 SPEAKER

11|11

RED 12|12 GREEN

BLUE 13|13 SYNC

GRD 14|14 SERVICE SW

TEST SW 15|15 SLAM SW

COIN 1 16|16 COIN 2

1P START 17|17 2P START

1P UP 18|18 2P UP

1P DOWN 19|19 2P DOWN

1P LEFT 20|20 2P LEFT

1P RIGHT 21|21 2P RIGHT

1P BUTTON 1 22|22 2P BUTTON 1

1P BUTTON 2 23|23 2P BUTTON 2

1P BUTTON 3 24|24 2P BUTTON 3

1P BUTTON 4 25|25 2P BUTTON 4

1P BUTTON 5 26|26 2P BUTTON 5

GND 27|27 GND

GND 28|28 GND