TOOBIN' to JAMMA instructions

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

=====================
= TOOBIN' to JAMMA =
=====================

04.29.05 - Steve Prendergast (stevepren-newsgroups@yahoo.com)
TOOBIN' pinouts are from the Atari schematics package
Thanks to Steve Muccione for suggesting the 74LS02.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
- TOOBIN' REQUIRES A EGA MEDIUM RESOLUTION (24khz) MONITOR -
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

DISCLAIMER: Use this document AT YOUR OWN RISK! I've tried to
keep this document as error free as possible, but no guarantees
of any kind are made. I take no responsibility for any injury
or equipment damage that may result from follwing the information
in this document. If you're not familar with the technical side
of arcade machines and/or electronics, you might want to find
someone who is qualified to create this adapter for you.


==============
MAIN CPU PCB =
==============

VID
-----
1 RED
2
3 KEY
4 GREEN
5
6 BLUE
7
8 VID GND
9
10 VSYNC
11 HSYNC

SEE THE NOTES BELOW - YOU'LL NEED TO ADD A 74LS02 TO
CONVERT THE HSYNC/VSYNC TO CSYNC.


PWR
------
1 +5 (SENSE) 4 GND (SENSE)
2 +5 5 GND
3 +5 6 GND

THIS IS AN AMP .084 6 POSITION MALE CONNECTOR - POSITIONS
1-3 ARE ALONG THE EDGE OF THE PCB AND ARE ALL +5V.
POSITIONS 4-6 ARE ON THE PCB SIDE AND ARE ALL GND
WIRES. I DID NOT WIRE IN THE SENSE CONNECTIONS BUT YOU
CAN IF YOU WANT.


AUD (WIRE ALL TO SOUND PCB CONNECTOR "JSCOM")
----------
1 TEST
2 GND
3 AUDAT
4 FULL
5 KEY
6 AUD FLAG
7 AUD CLK
8 GND
9 GND
10 +5
11 +5


SWA
-------
1 GND
2 KEY
3 (RIGHT) FORWARD RIGHT (P2 BUTTON 5)
4 (RIGHT) FORWARD LEFT (P2 BUTTON 4)
5 (RIGHT) BACK LEFT (P2 BUTTON 1)
6 (RIGHT) BACK RIGHT (P2 BUTTON 2)
7 (LEFT) FORWARD RIGHT (P1 BUTTON 5)
8 (LEFT) FORWARD LEFT (P1 BUTTON 4)
9 (LEFT) BACK LEFT (P1 BUTTON 1)
10 (LEFT) BACK RIGHT (P1 BUTTON 2)
11 GND


SWB
--------
1 GND
2 KEY
3 (RIGHT PLAYER) START/THROW CAN (P2 BUTTON 3)
4 (LEFT PLAYER) START/THROW CAN (P1 BUTTON 3)

YOU CAN ALTER THE SWA/SWB WIRING AS NEEDED FOR YOUR CONTROL
PANEL. I HAVE PLAYER "LEFT" WIRED AS PLAYER ONE AND PLAYER
"RIGHT" IS WIRED AS PLAYER TWO. I HAVE A 6 BUTTON JAMMA
CABINET, SO I USE 5 OF THE 6 BUTTONS TO SIMULATE THE DEDICATED
CABINET'S ORIGINAL 5 BUTTON SETUP. BUTTONS 4 & 5 ARE WIRED
FROM THE PCB INTO A MOLEX CONNECTOR THAT TIES THEM INTO MY
CABINET'S EXISTING AUXILIARY "KICK" HARNESS. YOU CAN MODIFY
THIS TO SUIT YOUR NEEDS.


===========
AUDIO PCB =
===========

ACDC
---------
1
2
3
4
5
6
7 GND
8
9 +12
10 +12
11 KEY
12

ATARI CALLS FOR 12VAC AND NOT +12V BUT SINCE 12VAC ISN'T NORMALLY
AVAILABLE IN A JAMMA CABINET, +12V WILL SUFFICE. THE GAME SOUNDS
MIGHT BE A BIT OFF BY USING +12V BUT WILL WORK FINE OTHERWISE.


JSCOM (WIRE ALL TO MAIN CPU BOARD CONNECTOR "AUD")
-------------
1 TEST
2 GND
3 AUDAT
4 FULL
5 KEY
6 AUD FLAG
7 AUD CLK
8 GND
9 GND
10 +5
11 +5


JSKPR
---------
1
2 SPKR -
3 KEY
4
5 SPKR +
6


JCOIN
----------
1
2
3 COIN2
4 COIN1
5 KEY
6 GND


========
74LS02 =
========
__ __
TO CSYNC 1--| U |--8 TO +5V
FROM VSYNC 2--| |--9
FROM HSYNC 3--| |--10
4--| |--11
5--| |--12
6--| |--13
TO GND 7--|_____|--14


THE HSYNC/VSYNC COMES FROM THE VID CONNECTOR ON THE MAIN PCB. NOTE
THE NOTCH IN THE 74LS02 CHIP - PIN 1 IS TO THE LEFT OF THE TOP NOTCH
AND PIN 7 IS TO THE RIGHT OF THE NOTCH. FEED THE VSYNC TO PIN 2 AND
THE HSYNC TO PIN 3. THIS WILL COMBINE THEM AND OUTPUT CSYNC THAT
THE JAMMA HARNESS NEEDS. SEND THE CSYNC TO THE JAMMA HARNESS VIA
PIN 1. PIN 7 GOES TO GND ON THE JAMMA HARNESS AND PIN 8 GOES TO +5V
ON THE JAMMA HARNESS. I HAVE MY 7402 ZIP TIED TO MY PCB WIRING LOOM.


==========================================================


If the ASCII does not format right in the Usenet post, I'll host the file on
my web space and post the
URL.

LMK if you find any omissions, errors, flaws, etc.

--
-Steve P.

All messages are scanned with Norton Anti-Virus
1 answer Last reply
More about toobin jamma instructions
  1. Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

    I went ahead and updated my document a bit to add additional info

    such as connector types and the like. LMK if you find any errors,

    omissions, typos, etc.


    --
    -Steve P.


    All messages are scanned with Norton Anti-Virus


    ======================

    = TOOBIN' to JAMMA =

    ======================


    04.29.05 - Steve Prendergast (stevepren-newsgroups@yahoo.com)

    05.03.05 - Cleaned up text and added additional information


    TOOBIN' pinouts are from Atari schematics package SP-320

    Thanks to Steve Muccione for suggesting use of the 74LS02 to convert

    the SYNC to CSYNC.


    ---------------------------------------------------------------

    - TOOBIN' REQUIRES A EGA MEDIUM RESOLUTION (24khz) MONITOR -

    ---------------------------------------------------------------


    DISCLAIMER: Use this document AT YOUR OWN RISK! I've tried to keep

    this document as error free as possible, but no guarantees of any

    kind are made. I take no responsibility for any injury or equipment

    damage that may result from following the information in this document.

    This document assumes that the reader is somewhat familiar with making

    PCB adapters. If you're not familiar with the technical side of arcade

    machines and/or electronics, you might want to find someone who is qualified

    to create this adapter for you.


    ==========================

    TECHNICAL NOTES AND MISC =

    ==========================


    You can get away with wiring up just the PWR and VID connections on the main

    game PCB to test video output (and to verify whether or not your "untested"

    $20 eBay board actually works). You'll still need to wire in the 7402 to
    get

    the video sync corrected to do this. You have to wire up the Atari stand

    alone audio PCB if you plan on actually playing the game though. The audio

    board handles not only the sound (it has a game specific sound ROM on it at

    location 2K) but also has the test mode switch and lastly it has a 6502A on

    it that controls the coin adders for the game. You can bypass the need for

    the coin adders by putting the game into FREE PLAY but you still need the

    audio PCB wired up to get into the test mode setup to change the settings.


    The inter-board connectors used by Atari are nothing fancy. You will need
    an

    AMP .084 6 position (3 position in 2 rows) connector for the PWR connector
    on

    the main PCB. The other connectors are noted next to the connector name and

    are just common Molex inline .100 or .156 connectors. I think just about

    everything needed should be easily available from Bob Roberts.


    I use cut up JAMMA harnesses for my wiring but you can use whatever you
    want.

    I do suggest using 18g wire for power connections and 20g for the remainder.

    I prefer using a hacked up JAMMA harness for the multitude of color

    combinations it offers as well as the 18g/20g wire combo. I hate adapter

    harnesses that are all one color - if I have to troubleshoot something, I

    want to easily be able to figure out what wire goes where and don't want

    to have to sort through 10 red wires to do so. You'll also need a JAMMA

    friendly 28/56 "type 1" (as Bob Roberts calls it) fingerboard. The

    fingerboard will plug into your cabinets existing JAMMA harness. All of

    the wires fed from the Toobin' boards will solder directly onto the various

    pads of the fingerboard just be aware that some connections are only made

    between the main game and audio PCBs and are not sent to the JAMMA harness

    - these connections are noted in the text. In case your JAMMA harness is

    not marked, I have included a standard JAMMA pinout at the end of this

    document for reference.


    ==============

    MAIN CPU PCB =

    ==============


    VID (11 position .100 inline connector - key at #3 position)

    -----

    1 RED

    2

    3 KEY

    4 GREEN

    5

    6 BLUE

    7

    8 VID GND

    9

    10 VSYNC

    11 HSYNC


    This is the VIDEO connection. RED, BLUE, GREEN, and VID GND all wire
    directly

    into the JAMMA adapter fingerboard, but see my notes below as you'll need to

    add a 74LS02 chip to the wiring to convert the HSYNC/VSYNC to JAMMA friendly

    CSYNC (which is sometimes just referred to as "SYNC" on JAMMA
    pinouts/harness

    labels).


    PWR (AMP .84 3 position/2 row male connector)

    ------

    1 +5 (SENSE) 4 GND (SENSE)

    2 +5 5 GND

    3 +5 6 GND


    This is your POWER connection. Use an AMP .084 6 position male connector -

    positions 1 through 3 are located along the edge of the PCB and are all +5v.

    Positions 4 through 6 are all GND connections and are all located on the PCB

    side of the connector. I did not bother to wire in the SENSE connections
    but

    doing so will not cause any harm. These all wire to the necessary positions

    on your JAMMA adapter fingerboard using 18g wire.


    AUD (11 position .100 inline connector - key at #5 position)

    -----------

    1 TEST

    2 GND

    3 AUDAT

    4 FULL

    5 KEY

    6 AUD FLAG

    7 AUD CLK

    8 GND

    9 GND

    10 +5

    11 +5


    This is an INTER-BOARD connection - wire all to corresponding positions on
    audio

    PCB connector "JSCOM"


    SWA (11 position .100 inline connector - key at #2 position)

    -------

    1 GND

    2 KEY

    3 (RIGHT) FORWARD RIGHT (P2 BUTTON 5)

    4 (RIGHT) FORWARD LEFT (P2 BUTTON 4)

    5 (RIGHT) BACK LEFT (P2 BUTTON 1)

    6 (RIGHT) BACK RIGHT (P2 BUTTON 2)

    7 (LEFT) FORWARD RIGHT (P1 BUTTON 5)

    8 (LEFT) FORWARD LEFT (P1 BUTTON 4)

    9 (LEFT) BACK LEFT (P1 BUTTON 1)

    10 (LEFT) BACK RIGHT (P1 BUTTON 2)

    11 GND


    This is part 1 of the control panel wiring - wire all to the necessary
    positions

    on your JAMMA adapter fingerboard.


    SWB (11 position .100 inline connector - key at #2 position)

    --------

    1 GND

    2 KEY

    3 (RIGHT PLAYER) START/THROW CAN (P2 BUTTON 3)

    4 (LEFT PLAYER) START/THROW CAN (P1 BUTTON 3)

    5

    6

    7

    8

    9

    10

    11


    This is part 2 of the control panel wiring - wire all to the necessary
    positions

    on your JAMMA adapter fingerboard.


    NOTE: You can alter the SWA/SWB wiring as needed for your application. For
    my

    harness, I have player "LEFT" wired into my cabinet as player one and player

    "RIGHT" is wired to player two. I have a 6 button JAMMA PLUS cabinet, so I
    am

    able to closely wire the buttons to mimic the original layout of the
    dedicated

    control panel. Buttons 4 and 5 are wired into the auxiliary "kick" harness
    in

    my cabinet via a Molex connector. You can alter this as needed for your

    particular needs.


    ===========

    AUDIO PCB =

    ===========


    ACDC (12 position .156 inline connector - key at #11 position)

    ---------

    1

    2

    3

    4

    5

    6

    7 GND

    8

    9 +12

    10 +12

    11 KEY

    12


    This is the audio board POWER connection. Wire all to the necessary
    positions on

    your JAMMA adapter fingerboard using 18g wire unless you are planning on

    incorporating 12VAC - see my notes below.


    NOTE: Atari calls for 12VAC and not +12v but since 12VAC isn't normally
    available

    in a JAMMA cabinet, +12v will suffice. The game sounds might be a little
    off by

    using +12v though. I added 12VAC to my wiring loom via a Radio Shack
    adjustable

    replacement power pack for AT&T answering machines or you could always add a

    transformer to output the 12VAC. If the game sounds are really lacking, you
    can

    always look at adding true 12VAC to your wiring.


    JSCOM (11 position .100 inline connector - key at #5 position)

    -------------

    1 TEST

    2 GND

    3 AUDAT

    4 FULL

    5 KEY

    6 AUD FLAG

    7 AUD CLK

    8 GND

    9 GND

    10 +5

    11 +5


    This is an INTER-BOARD connection - wire all to corresponding positions on
    main

    PCB connector "AUD"


    JSKPR (6 position .156 inline connector - key at #3 position)

    ---------

    1

    2 SPKR -

    3 KEY

    4

    5 SPKR +

    6


    Speaker connections - wire to the necessary positions on your JAMMA adapter

    fingerboard.


    JCOIN (6 position .100 inline connector - key at #5 position)

    ----------

    1

    2

    3 COIN2

    4 COIN1

    5 KEY

    6 GND


    This is your coin adder connections - wire all to the necessary positions on
    your

    JAMMA adapter fingerboard. If you plan on only using FREE PLAY, you can
    omit these.


    JCDL (2 position .156 inline connector - not keyed)

    ----------

    1 +5V

    2 GND


    Supplies power to the coin door on the dedicated Toobin' cabinet - not
    needed for

    converting Toobin' to JAMMA but included here for reference/completeness.
    Your

    JAMMA cabinet should already have the coin door wired.


    CC-/CC+

    --------


    The dedicated Toobin' cabinet coin counter connectors are a set of terminals
    on the

    audio board marked "CC- and "CC+". You can probably ignore wiring these up
    entirely

    since the self-test feature of the game board already tracks coin statistics
    (among

    other things). I mention it here just for reference as to what they are and
    where

    they are located.


    ========

    74LS02 =

    ========


    __ __

    TO CSYNC 1--| U |--8 TO +5v

    FROM VSYNC 2--| |--9

    FROM HSYNC 3--| |--10

    4--| |--11

    5--| |--12

    6--| |--13

    TO GND 7--|_____|--14


    The HSYNC and VSYNC comes from the VID connector on the main PCB. Note the
    notch in

    the 74LS02 chip - pin 1 is to the LEFT of the notch and pin 7 is to the
    RIGHT. Feed

    the VSYNC to pin 2 and the HSYNC to pin 3. This will combine the sync and
    output as

    CSYNC, which is what the JAMMA harness is looking for. Send the CSYNC to
    the JAMMA

    adapter fingerboard via pin 1. Pin 7 goes to GND on the JAMMA adapter
    fingerboard

    and pin 8 goes to +5v on the fingerboard. I have my 7402 held into my loom
    with a

    zip tie. There are probably a million variations on adding this chip to
    your wiring

    loom.


    ====================

    JAMMA PINOUTS =

    ====================


    PARTS SOLDER

    ---------------|---------------

    GND 1|1 GND

    GND 2|2 GND

    +5V 3|3 +5V

    +5V 4|4 +5V

    -5V 5|5 -5V

    +12V 6|6 +12V

    KEY 7|7 KEY

    COUNTER 1 8|8 COUNTER 2

    C LOCKOUT 1 9|9 C LOCKOUT 2

    SPEAKER 10|10 SPEAKER

    11|11

    RED 12|12 GREEN

    BLUE 13|13 SYNC

    GRD 14|14 SERVICE SW

    TEST SW 15|15 SLAM SW

    COIN 1 16|16 COIN 2

    1P START 17|17 2P START

    1P UP 18|18 2P UP

    1P DOWN 19|19 2P DOWN

    1P LEFT 20|20 2P LEFT

    1P RIGHT 21|21 2P RIGHT

    1P BUTTON 1 22|22 2P BUTTON 1

    1P BUTTON 2 23|23 2P BUTTON 2

    1P BUTTON 3 24|24 2P BUTTON 3

    1P BUTTON 4 25|25 2P BUTTON 4

    1P BUTTON 5 26|26 2P BUTTON 5

    GND 27|27 GND

    GND 28|28 GND
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