Best Way To Repair Missing Corner Pieces Of Cabinet?

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I know there are a few sites that explain repairing missing or chipped
pieces of the cabinet but would like to get a few different ideas from
people on the newsgroup on how to do it. I just got a machine where
both bottom front corner pieces are broken off and need ideas on how to
repair this.

Mike
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If the missing pieces are large enough, I would create new corners from
mdf or plywood and use biscuits and glue to replace.
 
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Put some deck screws in, perpendicular to the cab side. Build a 'form' using
masking tape, and lay some bondo in there. The deck screws are sort of 'rebar'
for the bondo, so it has something to grip to instead of just the end of the
broken cab material. Sand it down, use a hacksaw to cut the t-molding channel,
then prime & paint to match.

As the old saying goes, bondo covers many sins.

Richard

On 18 May 2005 09:55:36 -0700, "DarkMagister" <shadowspawn@chartermi.net> wrote:

>I know there are a few sites that explain repairing missing or chipped
>pieces of the cabinet but would like to get a few different ideas from
>people on the newsgroup on how to do it. I just got a machine where
>both bottom front corner pieces are broken off and need ideas on how to
>repair this.
>
>Mike
 
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I don't claim to be an expert on the subject but I think the trick to
bondo is several applications. You almost don't even need a mold, just
form by sanding.
~eric
 
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On 18 May 2005 09:55:36 -0700, "DarkMagister"
<shadowspawn@chartermi.net> wrote:

>I know there are a few sites that explain repairing missing or chipped
>pieces of the cabinet but would like to get a few different ideas from
>people on the newsgroup on how to do it. I just got a machine where
>both bottom front corner pieces are broken off and need ideas on how to
>repair this.
>
>Mike

Here are a couple of pictures to a repair I made on a beat up old
Midway cab. I tacked some stiff cardboard to the back to make a form,
then filled, smoothed and sanded. The repair is strong, and pretty
much invisible after paint:

http://home.comcast.net/~tok/mamecab/images/pdcab_side2chip2.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~tok/mamecab/images/pdcab_side2bondocorner.jpg

Here is a repair on a deeply gouged side:
http://home.comcast.net/~tok/mamecab/images/pdcab_repairededge2.jpg

Tim
 
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They are kind of ugly, but you can get cabinet corner protectors at home
depot (assuming there is enough wood left to screw into).

"DarkMagister" <shadowspawn@chartermi.net> wrote in message
news:1116435336.066403.42780@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>I know there are a few sites that explain repairing missing or chipped
> pieces of the cabinet but would like to get a few different ideas from
> people on the newsgroup on how to do it. I just got a machine where
> both bottom front corner pieces are broken off and need ideas on how to
> repair this.
>
> Mike
> --
> http://www.freewebs.com/arcadelinks/
>
 
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Thanks everyone for the advice. And thanks to the people who provided
some pics of their restoration projects. I've worked with Bondo when
restoring an old truck of mine but didn't think to use it on a game.
The funny thing about the corners missing is that the T-molding is all
intacted. How would you go about getting the T-Molding to attach to
the bondo? How would you go about cutting the groves to fit the
T-molding I mean?

Mike
--
http://www.freewebs.com/arcadelinks/
 
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I use a dremmel with the cutting disk to cut the slot for the
t-molding. worked great on my i,robot project http://mesons.org/robot/
~eric
 
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http://mesons.org/robot/

I hate it when that happens
 

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I've done tons with bondo over time.. I agree with Richard, it's easily the
best filler. The trick is indeed, layers.. don't try to do it in one shot.

Here's a couple projects using bondo I documented over the years:
http://www.tutankham.com/minefield/minefield.htm
http://www.tutankham.com/dl/dl.htm
http://www.tutankham.com/temp/defenders.htm

/b

New site soon: http://www.rgvac.com

"Jason Souza" <jsouza@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:aHPie.12537$4d6.710@trndny04...
> They are kind of ugly, but you can get cabinet corner protectors at home
> depot (assuming there is enough wood left to screw into).
>
> "DarkMagister" <shadowspawn@chartermi.net> wrote in message
> news:1116435336.066403.42780@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>>I know there are a few sites that explain repairing missing or chipped
>> pieces of the cabinet but would like to get a few different ideas from
>> people on the newsgroup on how to do it. I just got a machine where
>> both bottom front corner pieces are broken off and need ideas on how to
>> repair this.
>>
>> Mike
>> --
>> http://www.freewebs.com/arcadelinks/
>>
>
>
 
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I don't think there is enough of the corner left to put protectors on.
Plus I don't think they would work with T-Molding would they? Looks
like I'll have to invest in a cutting tool... :)

Mike
--
http://www.freewebs.com/arcadelinks/
 

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I use a dremel too for very small areas (less than 3 inches), otherwise I
use a slot cutting bit and a router.

The whole trick to restoring is taking your time, paying attention to detail
and getting it right. Don't look for the fastest, cheapest, easiest way to
do it or you'll be dissapointed every time.

/b


<lenscape@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1116484459.659243.228260@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>I use a dremmel with the cutting disk to cut the slot for the
> t-molding. worked great on my i,robot project http://mesons.org/robot/
> ~eric
>
 
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just take the easy way, buy cab corner protectors. Covers the damage up
perfectly and takes about 5 minutes to put on.


I love the fact that I am not a perfectionist. You can't believe the time
and money I save!!!
--
Mickster

Visit my website and see my arcade!!

http://mickster.freeservers.com

"prOk" <bsonej@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Cb%ie.30149$VH2.7801@tornado.tampabay.rr.com...
>I use a dremel too for very small areas (less than 3 inches), otherwise I
>use a slot cutting bit and a router.
>
> The whole trick to restoring is taking your time, paying attention to
> detail and getting it right. Don't look for the fastest, cheapest, easiest
> way to do it or you'll be dissapointed every time.
>
> /b
>
>
> <lenscape@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1116484459.659243.228260@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>>I use a dremmel with the cutting disk to cut the slot for the
>> t-molding. worked great on my i,robot project http://mesons.org/robot/
>> ~eric
>>
>
>
 
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Dremel is fine, but for me it takes too long. I usually take a hacksaw blade,
break it in half, and shove the broken end into a piece of rubber fuel line -
get the fuel injection (high pressure) rated stuff as it's stiffer and makes a
better handle. Then you have an "open-ended" hacksaw that is real useful for
cutting slots into the edge of weird shapes. Sounds hokey but works great : )

Richard

On Thu, 19 May 2005 11:58:26 GMT, "prOk" <bsonej@hotmail.com> wrote:

>I use a dremel too for very small areas (less than 3 inches), otherwise I
>use a slot cutting bit and a router.
>
>The whole trick to restoring is taking your time, paying attention to detail
>and getting it right. Don't look for the fastest, cheapest, easiest way to
>do it or you'll be dissapointed every time.
>
>/b
>
>
><lenscape@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>news:1116484459.659243.228260@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>>I use a dremmel with the cutting disk to cut the slot for the
>> t-molding. worked great on my i,robot project http://mesons.org/robot/
>> ~eric
>>
>
 
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Great Thread.
This will be a good one for the archive imo.
Thanks to all who posted...

G.



"DarkMagister" <shadowspawn@chartermi.net> wrote in message
news:1116435336.066403.42780@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>I know there are a few sites that explain repairing missing or chipped
> pieces of the cabinet but would like to get a few different ideas from
> people on the newsgroup on how to do it. I just got a machine where
> both bottom front corner pieces are broken off and need ideas on how to
> repair this.
>
> Mike
> --
> http://www.freewebs.com/arcadelinks/
>
 
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I think it's actually quick but mistakes can be made with it if the
angle gets off a bit. i.e. wear eye protection. I had one disk break
and fly off and hit me in the arm drawing the blood! Hate to think what
would happen if it hit my eye! so I get the re-enforced didks now. I
like the hacksaw blade idea though, less worry about flying objects and
I think the cut would be more straght. I have to try that the next time
I do some corners.
~eric
 
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Robert Bullock <rcbullock@_remove_cox.net> wrote:
: I prefer Rock Hard Putty. It can be mixed to any consistency and the setting

Let me second that -- I assume you are refering to Durahm's Rock Hard Water
Putty, available from most hardware stores for about $5 for a 4 lb can.
Comes powdered, mix 3 parts powder to 1 part water.

I use both bondo and water putty, as they have advantages in different
situations. Water putty takes longer to set, which is good if you need to
shape it. After about 20 min, you can cut it smooth with a putty knife (or
us a thin 'piano wire' as a cutter, like a cheese cutter), and you have less
to sand. It's also softer and easier to sand than Bondo. (My house has
real textured plaster on wood lath walls, and I've also used it to glue the
pieces of the plaster back on to the lath when it has cracked.)

Bondo is harder, when you need that, and the quick-setting can be usefull
when there isn't anything to hold it in place, so you want it to set quickly
before it falls or deforms.


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WestNet Internet Services of Westchester
http://www.westnet.com/
 
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Got some time to take another look at it and the corners aren't as bad
as i thought. They still need a good patch job, but there are not as
bad where they need to use the screw idea(Good Idea though). I guess
when you first look at something it looks worse then what it really is.
Now after I took a second look at it, its not so bad. But still will
make for a nice little project to fix. Thanks for all the advice guys.

Mike
--
http://www.freewebs.com/arcadelinks/