Asteroids Deluxe not working

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

I have read post after post about this subject, but nothing helps me
out.

My Asteroids Deluxe worked, it had a really loud buzz unless you were
playing a game. (It didn't have this when it was listed on eBay,
auction ended and I moved it to storage).

Was showing it to someone and it just had that problem.

I unplugged just about everything I could reach, re-seated the PCB
chips and now the loud buzz is gone, along with the game.

The player 1 and 2 buttons, marquee and PCB light all light up. No
blinking on the player buttons.

I went here:
http://www.ionpool.net/arcade/asteroidtech/asteroidsrepair.html, and
seen his remedy for this. Cleaned the connections with an pencil
eraser, still no change. Tried this board in 3 other cabinets, didn't
do any good.

Found a leg on one of the rom chips that broke off when it was just
barely touched, repaired that problem, and no change.

The PCB is getting it's 5v all right.

Game does not play blind.

Everything is connected back the way it was, I undid everything one at
a time.

All fuses are good, tested with multi-meter.

Any ideas?

Thanks.
-Tim

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Hi Alex-
It has the power supply in it that it came with, whether it's the
correct one I don't know.

The game played great everytime it was played for about 6 months, no
loud buzz. It even played great the day I took the pictures to put it
on eBay.

Right after I took all the pictures I loaded it up and delivered it to
storage along with a bunch of other games.

The ad ran, something like 7 days, and then I took a guy over to look
at it and the sound was there. Only when the game wasn't being played.
It had great game sound when playing a game. He suggested just
re-seating everything and so did another guy interested in the game.

I re-seated everything and no buzz, no game.

I checked the ROM's with a multi-meter for continuity, with the red
lead on the 5v on the board and the black lead on the top of the legs
of the ROM's. I got continuity on all but about 3 or 4 legs. I
removed that chip and got them in correctly. Now, I have it on all ROM
chips.

On the 6502 chip, I have continuity on all the tops of the legs except
3 and I can't see why not. Should they all have continuity? Are these
chips just chips or programmed with something? Do they just go bad
sometimes?

There was no snap, crackle or pop when I re-seated everything. No
static shock, nothing. At least nothing noticeable.

I tried the board after figuring out the ROM chips and it still does
the same thing. Player 1 and 2, marquee, and PCB lights all lit up.
The voltage on the PCB is actually 4.99v.

-Tim

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

If the cpu (6502) legs are not making contact with the socket then
there is no way it will start or function normally.
~eric

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Has it got the right power supply? If your cabinet has an AR
from an "standard" Asteroids it could *potentially* cause the audio
problem. There is a gain difference between the two (pretty sure the gain
on the standard AR is 10X the gain on the Ast. Del. version)
which *could* cause the original "buzz" problem. Note the heavy
use of disclaimers!

Obviously, this doesn't help explain what the new problem is.
Something may have gotten ESD'd when you reseated the board.
I doubt it's being caused by the AR board, since you say the
voltages are testing OK.

Alex
----
ayeckley@elektronforge.com
www.elektronforge.com

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Eric-
So, all of them are suppose to make contact?
Is it possible for just 3 of the legs to go bad, or is it just the
beginning of the entire chip going bad?
-Tim

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

I think you guys misread what he said

"I checked the ROM's with a multi-meter for continuity, with the red
lead on the 5v on the board and the black lead on the top of the legs
of the ROM's"

He checked for continuity from the +5 line to all the chip legs. The
+5 line isn't supposed to return to all the IC legs.

You actually wanna go back over EVERYTHING you reseated and "untouch
it" pull them back out and check for bent up pins, straighten them out
and reseat them properly.

To test for continuity go from the top of the pin on the chip to the
bottom of the circuit board at its final destination.

good luck.

- Matt

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Yeah, I just got a call telling me that I did it wrong.

I was shown how to do it the other way and that way would of taken
forever, so I thought of this way. I knew it wouldn't end up being
that easy.

I really only know how to check a fuse with a multi-meter with the ohm
setting. So, I was going by that. If I got something, I figured that
was good. If it stayed the same, like a bad fuse, I figured that was
bad.

Hell, I don't even know if I used the word continuity correctly.

Anyway, hopefully, this next weekend the game will be sold anyway. So,
I won't have to deal with it any more. Even though, I just know it is
just something easy.

Maybe I will give it another go at it later in the week, the right way,
just to see what it does.

Thanks for the help.

-Tim