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Tech: Tempest 6100 AS HV pcb question

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Anonymous
May 28, 2005 1:15:53 PM

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

ok, i started to install a 6100 Arcadeshop's HV pcb and have also installed
a LV2000 in the original deflection pcb prior. i have a known working
Tempest pcb, new "big blue" cap, and new big chassis transistors!!

at first, i had no HV and spot killer on deflection would come on, some
deflection chatter though! i bumped the cab when trying something and
Voila! i had HV and deflection with no spot killer, GREAT, but what did i
do to make this happen???? the only thing that i was unsure of, was the
ground wires from CRT, neckboard, and one between the new HV pcb and the
deflection pcb! i had them loose but touching the chassis at first which
created a spark show so i tied all grounds together/screwed to chassis. is
this correct? it came up and stayed up for quite a awhile(couple of hours)
then died overnight!

this is what i have now:

1. no HV(no LEDs lit either) and fuse is good
2. no deflection chatter that i can hear
3. no spot killer(which is odd since i have no chatter)
4. i do have both LV2000 LEDs lit on delfection pcb(AS doesn't have manual
online anymore so don't know where to test voltages on this!)
5. all voltages on pcb are good (with 10-11v on X/Y output test points)
6. all fuses in cab are good it seems
7. no gameplay but i have tried 3 known working Tempest boardsets and all
do same
8. i have both player 1 and 2 constantly lit and doesn't change with test
switch(no sounds either)

i would like to know where those ground wire should actually go, or if they
are ok as-is???

any ideas would be great,
thanks,
Kelly
Anonymous
May 28, 2005 1:27:06 PM

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

ok, update on my issues!

like i said, i believe i didn't hook up the grounds correctly, which i still
think is my case here!

i unhooked all my grounds and connected the 2 from deflection pcb straight
to the HV unit and kept the neckboard ground in place on chassis. this has
made the game come up and play but still have no HV! learning something
here for sure now!

do you think that i might have blown one of the transistors on the AS HV pcb
now? any thoughts?

TIA,
Kelly
"Kelly Ray" <starwarsroomspam@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:s_ydnbO9utaI4AXfRVn-iA@comcast.com...
> ok, i started to install a 6100 Arcadeshop's HV pcb and have also
> installed a LV2000 in the original deflection pcb prior. i have a known
> working Tempest pcb, new "big blue" cap, and new big chassis transistors!!
>
> at first, i had no HV and spot killer on deflection would come on, some
> deflection chatter though! i bumped the cab when trying something and
> Voila! i had HV and deflection with no spot killer, GREAT, but what did i
> do to make this happen???? the only thing that i was unsure of, was the
> ground wires from CRT, neckboard, and one between the new HV pcb and the
> deflection pcb! i had them loose but touching the chassis at first which
> created a spark show so i tied all grounds together/screwed to chassis.
> is this correct? it came up and stayed up for quite a awhile(couple of
> hours) then died overnight!
>
> this is what i have now:
>
> 1. no HV(no LEDs lit either) and fuse is good
> 2. no deflection chatter that i can hear
> 3. no spot killer(which is odd since i have no chatter)
> 4. i do have both LV2000 LEDs lit on delfection pcb(AS doesn't have
> manual online anymore so don't know where to test voltages on this!)
> 5. all voltages on pcb are good (with 10-11v on X/Y output test points)
> 6. all fuses in cab are good it seems
> 7. no gameplay but i have tried 3 known working Tempest boardsets and all
> do same
> 8. i have both player 1 and 2 constantly lit and doesn't change with test
> switch(no sounds either)
>
> i would like to know where those ground wire should actually go, or if
> they are ok as-is???
>
> any ideas would be great,
> thanks,
> Kelly
>
>
>
Anonymous
May 28, 2005 4:12:04 PM

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

ok, my bad, F600 was blown on deflection(couldn't even see it), replaced but
still no HV!

"Kelly Ray" <starwarsroomspam@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:cdGdnWj_YpEo4gXfRVn-ug@comcast.com...
> ok, update on my issues!
>
> like i said, i believe i didn't hook up the grounds correctly, which i
> still think is my case here!
>
> i unhooked all my grounds and connected the 2 from deflection pcb straight
> to the HV unit and kept the neckboard ground in place on chassis. this
> has made the game come up and play but still have no HV! learning
> something here for sure now!
>
> do you think that i might have blown one of the transistors on the AS HV
> pcb now? any thoughts?
>
> TIA,
> Kelly
> "Kelly Ray" <starwarsroomspam@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:s_ydnbO9utaI4AXfRVn-iA@comcast.com...
>> ok, i started to install a 6100 Arcadeshop's HV pcb and have also
>> installed a LV2000 in the original deflection pcb prior. i have a known
>> working Tempest pcb, new "big blue" cap, and new big chassis
>> transistors!!
>>
>> at first, i had no HV and spot killer on deflection would come on, some
>> deflection chatter though! i bumped the cab when trying something and
>> Voila! i had HV and deflection with no spot killer, GREAT, but what did
>> i do to make this happen???? the only thing that i was unsure of, was
>> the ground wires from CRT, neckboard, and one between the new HV pcb and
>> the deflection pcb! i had them loose but touching the chassis at first
>> which created a spark show so i tied all grounds together/screwed to
>> chassis. is this correct? it came up and stayed up for quite a
>> awhile(couple of hours) then died overnight!
>>
>> this is what i have now:
>>
>> 1. no HV(no LEDs lit either) and fuse is good
>> 2. no deflection chatter that i can hear
>> 3. no spot killer(which is odd since i have no chatter)
>> 4. i do have both LV2000 LEDs lit on delfection pcb(AS doesn't have
>> manual online anymore so don't know where to test voltages on this!)
>> 5. all voltages on pcb are good (with 10-11v on X/Y output test points)
>> 6. all fuses in cab are good it seems
>> 7. no gameplay but i have tried 3 known working Tempest boardsets and
>> all do same
>> 8. i have both player 1 and 2 constantly lit and doesn't change with
>> test switch(no sounds either)
>>
>> i would like to know where those ground wire should actually go, or if
>> they are ok as-is???
>>
>> any ideas would be great,
>> thanks,
>> Kelly
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Related resources
Anonymous
May 28, 2005 9:27:24 PM

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

1: Reflow the pin headers on the deflection board - ALL OF THEM.

2: Reflow And check for breaks on the predriver mains pins (the
heatsinked transistors on the deflection BD)

3: Use a continuity tester and test EACH t0-3 transistor. You are
looking for a short to the chassis from the metal case of the
transistor. The sockets on these like to melt the spacers away at wich
point one of the retaining screws makes its way to the chassis. More
common then most people think.

4: check continuity from each pin on each transistor socket back to the
connector that connects to the deflection BD. If you find a break pull
the wire from it's lame crimp, cut off a quarter inch, and reseat it
firmly. Then retest it.

Those should cover the most problematic portions of the unit. Keep in
mind that the transistors that drive the HV run through the deflection
BD so loss of HV can start there as well.

ALSO - A chassis ground is a chassis ground on these. Ground them all
together, ground them all apart, just ground them. mmmmmmm k?

If any of this fixes your problem I take appreciation in paypal
payments, fresh baked goods, free parts, and thank you's

- Matt
Anonymous
May 29, 2005 12:07:35 AM

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

>fresh baked goods<

That's what I'm talking about... I figure there are a few guys that owe me
some chocolate chip cookies here! LOL!

But seriously, everything that he mentioned in his post should cover your
problems. You should also make sure your getting both the +/- 26VDC to the
HV board. Sounds like one of them is off or missing. That HV board could
care less about a deflection problem. All it really needs is a good supply
voltage and its off to the races!
Anonymous
May 29, 2005 2:34:34 AM

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Did you re-flow the solder joints on the header pins on the deflection
board? These are notoriously flaky and can cause the intermittent problem
you describe.

Mark Hooks

"Kelly Ray" <starwarsroomspam@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:INydnUt2LqX9OwXfRVn-qg@comcast.com...
> ok, my bad, F600 was blown on deflection(couldn't even see it), replaced
> but still no HV!
>
> "Kelly Ray" <starwarsroomspam@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:cdGdnWj_YpEo4gXfRVn-ug@comcast.com...
>> ok, update on my issues!
>>
>> like i said, i believe i didn't hook up the grounds correctly, which i
>> still think is my case here!
>>
>> i unhooked all my grounds and connected the 2 from deflection pcb
>> straight to the HV unit and kept the neckboard ground in place on
>> chassis. this has made the game come up and play but still have no HV!
>> learning something here for sure now!
>>
>> do you think that i might have blown one of the transistors on the AS HV
>> pcb now? any thoughts?
>>
>> TIA,
>> Kelly
>> "Kelly Ray" <starwarsroomspam@comcast.net> wrote in message
>> news:s_ydnbO9utaI4AXfRVn-iA@comcast.com...
>>> ok, i started to install a 6100 Arcadeshop's HV pcb and have also
>>> installed a LV2000 in the original deflection pcb prior. i have a known
>>> working Tempest pcb, new "big blue" cap, and new big chassis
>>> transistors!!
>>>
>>> at first, i had no HV and spot killer on deflection would come on, some
>>> deflection chatter though! i bumped the cab when trying something and
>>> Voila! i had HV and deflection with no spot killer, GREAT, but what did
>>> i do to make this happen???? the only thing that i was unsure of, was
>>> the ground wires from CRT, neckboard, and one between the new HV pcb and
>>> the deflection pcb! i had them loose but touching the chassis at first
>>> which created a spark show so i tied all grounds together/screwed to
>>> chassis. is this correct? it came up and stayed up for quite a
>>> awhile(couple of hours) then died overnight!
>>>
>>> this is what i have now:
>>>
>>> 1. no HV(no LEDs lit either) and fuse is good
>>> 2. no deflection chatter that i can hear
>>> 3. no spot killer(which is odd since i have no chatter)
>>> 4. i do have both LV2000 LEDs lit on delfection pcb(AS doesn't have
>>> manual online anymore so don't know where to test voltages on this!)
>>> 5. all voltages on pcb are good (with 10-11v on X/Y output test points)
>>> 6. all fuses in cab are good it seems
>>> 7. no gameplay but i have tried 3 known working Tempest boardsets and
>>> all do same
>>> 8. i have both player 1 and 2 constantly lit and doesn't change with
>>> test switch(no sounds either)
>>>
>>> i would like to know where those ground wire should actually go, or if
>>> they are ok as-is???
>>>
>>> any ideas would be great,
>>> thanks,
>>> Kelly
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
Anonymous
May 29, 2005 2:34:35 AM

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

thanks Mark, i will disassemble and re-flow them!

thanks again and i'll will post later,
Kelly

"Mark Hooks" <markhooks@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:_l6me.9655$M36.8180@newsread1.news.atl.earthlink.net...
> Did you re-flow the solder joints on the header pins on the deflection
> board? These are notoriously flaky and can cause the intermittent problem
> you describe.
>
> Mark Hooks
>
> "Kelly Ray" <starwarsroomspam@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:INydnUt2LqX9OwXfRVn-qg@comcast.com...
>> ok, my bad, F600 was blown on deflection(couldn't even see it), replaced
>> but still no HV!
>>
>> "Kelly Ray" <starwarsroomspam@comcast.net> wrote in message
>> news:cdGdnWj_YpEo4gXfRVn-ug@comcast.com...
>>> ok, update on my issues!
>>>
>>> like i said, i believe i didn't hook up the grounds correctly, which i
>>> still think is my case here!
>>>
>>> i unhooked all my grounds and connected the 2 from deflection pcb
>>> straight to the HV unit and kept the neckboard ground in place on
>>> chassis. this has made the game come up and play but still have no HV!
>>> learning something here for sure now!
>>>
>>> do you think that i might have blown one of the transistors on the AS HV
>>> pcb now? any thoughts?
>>>
>>> TIA,
>>> Kelly
>>> "Kelly Ray" <starwarsroomspam@comcast.net> wrote in message
>>> news:s_ydnbO9utaI4AXfRVn-iA@comcast.com...
>>>> ok, i started to install a 6100 Arcadeshop's HV pcb and have also
>>>> installed a LV2000 in the original deflection pcb prior. i have a
>>>> known working Tempest pcb, new "big blue" cap, and new big chassis
>>>> transistors!!
>>>>
>>>> at first, i had no HV and spot killer on deflection would come on, some
>>>> deflection chatter though! i bumped the cab when trying something and
>>>> Voila! i had HV and deflection with no spot killer, GREAT, but what
>>>> did i do to make this happen???? the only thing that i was unsure of,
>>>> was the ground wires from CRT, neckboard, and one between the new HV
>>>> pcb and the deflection pcb! i had them loose but touching the chassis
>>>> at first which created a spark show so i tied all grounds
>>>> together/screwed to chassis. is this correct? it came up and stayed up
>>>> for quite a awhile(couple of hours) then died overnight!
>>>>
>>>> this is what i have now:
>>>>
>>>> 1. no HV(no LEDs lit either) and fuse is good
>>>> 2. no deflection chatter that i can hear
>>>> 3. no spot killer(which is odd since i have no chatter)
>>>> 4. i do have both LV2000 LEDs lit on delfection pcb(AS doesn't have
>>>> manual online anymore so don't know where to test voltages on this!)
>>>> 5. all voltages on pcb are good (with 10-11v on X/Y output test
>>>> points)
>>>> 6. all fuses in cab are good it seems
>>>> 7. no gameplay but i have tried 3 known working Tempest boardsets and
>>>> all do same
>>>> 8. i have both player 1 and 2 constantly lit and doesn't change with
>>>> test switch(no sounds either)
>>>>
>>>> i would like to know where those ground wire should actually go, or if
>>>> they are ok as-is???
>>>>
>>>> any ideas would be great,
>>>> thanks,
>>>> Kelly
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
Anonymous
May 29, 2005 5:19:49 AM

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

thanks for the posts!!

i checked the LV2000 and have +/-26 on both sides but nothing on the power
plug to HV pcb!

also, i re-flowed all header pins and heat sink pins on this deflection pcb
and even the 2 big caps on it(looked like cold/broken joints also).

i'll try a few more things in the morning and post!

thanks again, much appreciated,
Kelly

"Matt Mac Donagh" <gamefixer@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:-pSdnQe2D5-NrwTfRVn-3w@starstream.net...
> >fresh baked goods<
>
> That's what I'm talking about... I figure there are a few guys that owe me
> some chocolate chip cookies here! LOL!
>
> But seriously, everything that he mentioned in his post should cover your
> problems. You should also make sure your getting both the +/- 26VDC to the
> HV board. Sounds like one of them is off or missing. That HV board could
> care less about a deflection problem. All it really needs is a good supply
> voltage and its off to the races!
>
>
>
Anonymous
May 29, 2005 4:19:36 PM

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Google up a page on checking transistors with a DMM and pull the Y side
trannies and check them. Then when you reinstall them look for a short
from case to chassis.

And I'm pretty open minded on names. Growing up I had a very good
friend named kelly malone. Not sure whatever happened to him? He moved
away when we were very young and havn't heardof him since.

That doesn't mean you can't get your ass in the kitchen and bake me
some friggin cookies tho ;) 

- Matt
Anonymous
May 29, 2005 6:48:18 PM

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

No.. that means the transistors are not shorting to chassis ground.
That does NOT mean they are good. Go back and reread everything wel
have told you to check and make sure you followed.

- Matt
Anonymous
May 29, 2005 7:40:28 PM

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

once i removed the deflection pcb, i could correctly test the chassis
trannies and none seem to be shorted(infinity)! so, with that said, can i
safely say that transistors are still good, just have a prob left on the LV
side of the deflection to not get those LV2000 voltages to P101?

also, i guess with trannies still being good, that might be why i am not
getting spot killer LED???

Kelly

"Matty-t" <matthews@audio-doctors.com> wrote in message
news:1117394376.583157.287840@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> Google up a page on checking transistors with a DMM and pull the Y side
> trannies and check them. Then when you reinstall them look for a short
> from case to chassis.
>
> And I'm pretty open minded on names. Growing up I had a very good
> friend named kelly malone. Not sure whatever happened to him? He moved
> away when we were very young and havn't heardof him since.
>
> That doesn't mean you can't get your ass in the kitchen and bake me
> some friggin cookies tho ;) 
>
> - Matt
>
Anonymous
May 29, 2005 7:43:37 PM

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

that was written incorrectly, i meant DMM doesn't show anything meaning
"inifinity" and not that shorted meant infinity!!!

wanted to clarify before someone jumped on me.

"Kelly Ray" <starwarsroomspam@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:38KdnTXezL4otQffRVn-uQ@comcast.com...
> once i removed the deflection pcb, i could correctly test the chassis
> trannies and none seem to be shorted(infinity)! so, with that said, can i
> safely say that transistors are still good, just have a prob left on the
> LV side of the deflection to not get those LV2000 voltages to P101?
>
> also, i guess with trannies still being good, that might be why i am not
> getting spot killer LED???
>
> Kelly
>
> "Matty-t" <matthews@audio-doctors.com> wrote in message
> news:1117394376.583157.287840@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>> Google up a page on checking transistors with a DMM and pull the Y side
>> trannies and check them. Then when you reinstall them look for a short
>> from case to chassis.
>>
>> And I'm pretty open minded on names. Growing up I had a very good
>> friend named kelly malone. Not sure whatever happened to him? He moved
>> away when we were very young and havn't heardof him since.
>>
>> That doesn't mean you can't get your ass in the kitchen and bake me
>> some friggin cookies tho ;) 
>>
>> - Matt
>>
>
>
Anonymous
May 29, 2005 10:07:12 PM

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

And you said the picture looks great while it is working?

Have you adjusted the +5 yet on the PS?

I remember you said you have over 10 volts on the x/y input. That
sounds high to me. Anyone else care to elaborate? Perhaps the
deflection system is being way overdriven and the outputs are going
into thermal runaway.

You used heat sink compound on the trannies? they are tightly
fastened? When to-3 case trannies heat up they actually yield more
output. Perhaps it's all enough to trip the spot killer.

The components labled in the 800's are spot killer components. Check
those too. Ie. q801 r803, etc.

I would have to say the deflection system is clipping too hard for one
reason or another, but check the spot killer stuff first as well as the
+5 and retest those x/y points too.

For future reference all 6 usually die because people don't know how
to do anything but stand there like a deer in headlights when the
monitor dies. They scratch thier heads a while, call thier one buddy
from HS who once fixed his walkman (by accident) talk to him on the
phone for an hour (the game is STILL on) and make an arrangement for
him to come take a looksee; a week later. And it's STILL on because the
tard forgot all about it, and hey.. there's no picture to remind him
right?

Idiots are 50% of the reason they ALL die. The remaining 50% can be
divided amongst several reasons.

- Matt
Anonymous
May 29, 2005 10:20:14 PM

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Matty, thanks again for the help....have ta cook up somethin i guess!! i
don't think you'll want it though!

i pulled them all and had all 6 transistors bad! replaced with new ones
from Bob Roberts kit and made sure before powered up that they were touching
chassis, VOILA, HV + full deflection!!!!

hard to believe that all 6 were shorted/open though(not to chassis,
internally). i tested each one and definitely all were toast. for future
reference, what would have caused this to happen to all 6?

BUT, still another issue. after a few minutes watching the back spot killer
lights up every so slighty on toughly drawn vectors as chatter gets more
intense. finally, spot killer stays on and shuts down but looks like i
still have the HV just no video! after it cools a few mins then power back
up and great pic again and so on....

suspect something actually wrong with the spot killer circuit now???
something about to die probably, huh? i haven't repl the 2 big caps on
deflection yet!

thanks again for posts and i hope this help out others,
Kelly

"Matty-t" <matthews@audio-doctors.com> wrote in message
news:1117403298.340073.115150@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
> No.. that means the transistors are not shorting to chassis ground.
> That does NOT mean they are good. Go back and reread everything wel
> have told you to check and make sure you followed.
>
> - Matt
>
Anonymous
May 29, 2005 10:34:28 PM

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

The voltages look good with the exception of the x/y. Check it using AC
measurment setting. With the game on it should be around a volt or so,
one will be higher then the other

Check all the other stuff I mentioned first, then post back.

- Matt
Anonymous
May 30, 2005 12:26:19 AM

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

i think i belong in the first 50% of idiots!

i have 5.2v at test point on Tempest pcb and around +/-.2v on X/Y OUT tabs.
i had +/-10v before, but not sure why!
you think 5.2v is a bit high overdriving the deflection therfore shutting
down? only seems to happen when runs for awhile/hotter maybe!

and yes, pic was adjusted out perfectly while on. very pretty pic when up
with no "shaky vectors" either with my AS HV pcb!!!

Kelly

"Matty-t" <matthews@audio-doctors.com> wrote in message
news:1117415232.640782.99330@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> And you said the picture looks great while it is working?
>
> Have you adjusted the +5 yet on the PS?
>
> I remember you said you have over 10 volts on the x/y input. That
> sounds high to me. Anyone else care to elaborate? Perhaps the
> deflection system is being way overdriven and the outputs are going
> into thermal runaway.
>
> You used heat sink compound on the trannies? they are tightly
> fastened? When to-3 case trannies heat up they actually yield more
> output. Perhaps it's all enough to trip the spot killer.
>
> The components labled in the 800's are spot killer components. Check
> those too. Ie. q801 r803, etc.
>
> I would have to say the deflection system is clipping too hard for one
> reason or another, but check the spot killer stuff first as well as the
> +5 and retest those x/y points too.
>
> For future reference all 6 usually die because people don't know how
> to do anything but stand there like a deer in headlights when the
> monitor dies. They scratch thier heads a while, call thier one buddy
> from HS who once fixed his walkman (by accident) talk to him on the
> phone for an hour (the game is STILL on) and make an arrangement for
> him to come take a looksee; a week later. And it's STILL on because the
> tard forgot all about it, and hey.. there's no picture to remind him
> right?
>
> Idiots are 50% of the reason they ALL die. The remaining 50% can be
> divided amongst several reasons.
>
> - Matt
>
Anonymous
May 30, 2005 2:04:07 AM

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Your measurments are good.

Move onto the other stuff I suggested.

- Matt
Anonymous
May 30, 2005 2:06:56 AM

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

using AC, measurement is anywhere from .8-5v and larger on Y than the X it
seems.

i am trying another working boardset and see if it still overkills spot
killer circuitry!


"Matty-t" <matthews@audio-doctors.com> wrote in message
news:1117416868.050302.323590@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> The voltages look good with the exception of the x/y. Check it using AC
> measurment setting. With the game on it should be around a volt or so,
> one will be higher then the other
>
> Check all the other stuff I mentioned first, then post back.
>
> - Matt
>
Anonymous
May 30, 2005 1:03:17 PM

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

ok, will do....something is definitely not right on deflection pcb! it blew
some trannies again cause i didn't catch it in time. this is pissing me off
and expensive!!! fuse didn't blow this time though, kinda weird. i need to
find out what exactly can cause all of this before i repl transistors
again....now i don't think it's in spot killer section(wouldn't think SK
section would cause trannies to blow) but actually in XY(deflection)
somewhere!!

Kelly

"Matty-t" <matthews@audio-doctors.com> wrote in message
news:1117429447.044460.317730@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> Your measurments are good.
>
> Move onto the other stuff I suggested.
>
> - Matt
>
Anonymous
May 30, 2005 3:00:31 PM

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Yes something is not right. But Since I don't have my hands on any of
it and never have I cannot continue to offer *competent* advice on the
matter. A component is out of value or even worse, you have a
intermittent failure which can be a real pain to help you with without
being there to put my hands and eyes on any of it.

Just go back over everything you were told to go over. Your missing
something. Good luck.

- Matt
Anonymous
May 31, 2005 3:29:17 PM

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Just a thought, and remember, I'm no tech. Just got my Monitor working
last week so I can relate. One thing that I noticed concerning the
deflection transistors, on the back side (where the 3 wires make the
connections to the posts of the transistors) I had a couple of wires
shorting out. If you look closely at them, 2 of the 3 wires can
actually be in contact with the posts they are passing by. On a couple
of mine the insulation had warn through and were shorting out. I just
sniped the bad part and re-soldered them. I also made sure that the
rest of them had a good amount of clearance between the wires and the
posts. Hope this helps.

-Dave
!