my first adventure into tube swap

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Ok, I have a g07 with way too much green. I diagnose it to be a bad tube.

So, I have an old rca tv that looks to be a good doner

step one, I strip the tube out of the tv cabinet

step two, I check to see of the neckboard plug is the same, it is.

step three, I go to remove the yoke and notice, hey there is no clamp,
looks like its bonded on.

step four, look on the net and research, yep its a bonded yoke.

step five I carfully start stripping the yoke off a piece at the time. I
wear a full face shield that I keep around for my day job. I start to get
nervous that I will explode this tube all over my face to save buying a
monitor.

step six. I am able to fully remove the yoke, I slide the go7 yoke on and
prepare to mount the tube to the chassis

step seven. As I go to bolt the tube up, none of the chassis holes line up.
What the @#$@#%, this is a 20" tube, not a 19". I have just wasted 2 hours
of my life for this (*&^(*&!!!!!

Luckily a local fellow collector gave me a kortec monitor that just happens
to be compatible with the g07 chassis. I wanted to use the g07 chassis,
since it has a ntsc card (its out of a dragons lair). Not only was the neck
plug the same, the yoke had the same resistance readings. I was able to cut
the plug and just plug it into the proper pins for the yoke on the G07
chassis.

I seem to remember some old saying: measure twice, cut once or something
like that.

Later,

--
Mickster

Visit my website and see my arcade!!

http://mickster.freeservers.com

 

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Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

You should finish that project, make sure it works, and eBay it. Or
sit it on a shelf and be proud of yourself.

You can't buy experience like that.

-Tim

 

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Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Ah, yes, the old 20" tube. Bastard inch, that is.

Also, always ohm out the yoke first... if it's close enough, just leave
the yoke on the tube and save yourself a lot of heartache and
convergence. ESPECIALLY if it's a bonded yoke. 9 times out of 10
(especially with larger tubes) if the yoke is bonded, there'll be a
single, nonadjustable convergence ring on the neck... computer
calibrated, sonny, you're not gonna beat that... if the yoke is close
enough to the one that came with the chassis, try it out.

Guys, really, tube swaps are not black magic... I don't know why
everybody seems to be so scared/confused about them.

Later,
Rob

 

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Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

isn't there certain specs, like within so many ohms horiz/vert coil of
original yoke, and it should work. that's it, right? what's range again???
i know this has been noted before somewhere here!

Kelly

"Rob Carroll" <robert.carroll30@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:1117717198.747957.181690@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
> Ah, yes, the old 20" tube. Bastard inch, that is.
>
> Also, always ohm out the yoke first... if it's close enough, just leave
> the yoke on the tube and save yourself a lot of heartache and
> convergence. ESPECIALLY if it's a bonded yoke. 9 times out of 10
> (especially with larger tubes) if the yoke is bonded, there'll be a
> single, nonadjustable convergence ring on the neck... computer
> calibrated, sonny, you're not gonna beat that... if the yoke is close
> enough to the one that came with the chassis, try it out.
>
> Guys, really, tube swaps are not black magic... I don't know why
> everybody seems to be so scared/confused about them.
>
> Later,
> Rob
>