WG4900 cap kit question for C301

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Hi all

I am doing my first cap kit and noticed that at c301 on my WG4900 the
original cap that was in there was a 50v 330uf and the cap kit that I have
wants me to replace it with a 25v 330uf

should I just replace with the cap that was supplied with the cap kit or run
out and buy a replacement cap to match what was originally there ?

Rob Z.

P.s - just wanted to thank the group for all the help and posts on these
repairs as I would have no idea how to do these repairs without you all

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

This chassis is well known for many bad solder joints. Also, make sure
you pushed the yoke connector all the way back down on the board.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

found another one that doesn't match also, c507 - cap that was on chassis
was 47uf 160v, cap that came with the cap kit 47uf 200v

is it ok to just use the cap that came with the kit or go and get a cap that
matches the original ?

Rob Z.
"Rob Z." <rziniukNOSPAM@rogers.com> wrote in message
news:RPmdndEkT7Wc1TrfRVn-3g@rogers.com...
> Hi all
>
> I am doing my first cap kit and noticed that at c301 on my WG4900 the
> original cap that was in there was a 50v 330uf and the cap kit that I have
> wants me to replace it with a 25v 330uf
>
> should I just replace with the cap that was supplied with the cap kit or
> run out and buy a replacement cap to match what was originally there ?
>
> Rob Z.
>
> P.s - just wanted to thank the group for all the help and posts on these
> repairs as I would have no idea how to do these repairs without you all
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

it looks like the spec is calling for a 16V part there... so 25v should be
good enough (the one right above it calls for a 50V part so I suspect they
just used the same part in the factory... easier/cheaper the stocking
multiple voltage parts for the same capacitance).

"Rob Z." <rziniukNOSPAM@rogers.com> wrote in message
news:RPmdndEkT7Wc1TrfRVn-3g@rogers.com...
> Hi all
>
> I am doing my first cap kit and noticed that at c301 on my WG4900 the
> original cap that was in there was a 50v 330uf and the cap kit that I have
> wants me to replace it with a 25v 330uf
>
> should I just replace with the cap that was supplied with the cap kit or
> run out and buy a replacement cap to match what was originally there ?
>
> Rob Z.
>
> P.s - just wanted to thank the group for all the help and posts on these
> repairs as I would have no idea how to do these repairs without you all
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Hmm the only thing I can think of near C310 and C311 is the vertical
Output transistor..according to the schematic diagram..labeled as Q302.

Got the schematic from
http://slot-tech-ftp.serveftp.com:8080/technical_department/monitors/monitor%20schematic%20diagrams/wg_k4900_med_res.jpg

Hope this gives ya a starting point..
Josh

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Good news, got it working

I replaced caps C311 and C308 with caps from another cap kit and it came
right up and looks good except for some slight (and I mean very slight)
jitteriness and a little bending to the right at the top. The only problem
now is that I don't want to turn it off because it worked perfect after the
last cap kit that I installed until I turned it off and back on again.

Hmmm well I guess I cant leave it on forever, so here it goes. lets see if
it still works after I restart it (fingers crossed)

WOOO HOOO looks good !!!!

ok, cool. One last question, how can I fix the slight bend on the top 1/2
inch of the screen that the cap kit didn't cure ? Before the capkit the
picture would stop about 2 inches from the top of the screen, I could keep
adjusting the picture taller but it looked like the picture would just pile
up on top of itself in a thin bright line. Now, after the capkit, the
picture will adjust to the top of the screen without folding onto itself but
still does bend to the right slightly

You guys are too cool !!! thanks for all your help !!!!


<joshers17@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1118378363.944722.139780@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> Hmm the only thing I can think of near C310 and C311 is the vertical
> Output transistor..according to the schematic diagram..labeled as Q302.
>
> Got the schematic from
> http://slot-tech-ftp.serveftp.com:8080/technical_department/monitors/monitor%20schematic%20diagrams/wg_k4900_med_res.jpg
>
> Hope this gives ya a starting point..
> Josh
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

that sounds like the horizontal hold is off a bit...

you might try replacint the transistor to get rid of some of the
jitteryness, especially after doing some damage to that portion of the
circuit...

(doesn't it feel good fixing it ).

steve

"Rob Z." <rziniukNOSPAM@rogers.com> wrote in message
news:3rqdnX4HnbQwqDTfRVn-vA@rogers.com...
> Good news, got it working
>
> I replaced caps C311 and C308 with caps from another cap kit and it came
> right up and looks good except for some slight (and I mean very slight)
> jitteriness and a little bending to the right at the top. The only problem
> now is that I don't want to turn it off because it worked perfect after
> the last cap kit that I installed until I turned it off and back on again.
>
> Hmmm well I guess I cant leave it on forever, so here it goes. lets see if
> it still works after I restart it (fingers crossed)
>
> WOOO HOOO looks good !!!!
>
> ok, cool. One last question, how can I fix the slight bend on the top 1/2
> inch of the screen that the cap kit didn't cure ? Before the capkit the
> picture would stop about 2 inches from the top of the screen, I could keep
> adjusting the picture taller but it looked like the picture would just
> pile up on top of itself in a thin bright line. Now, after the capkit, the
> picture will adjust to the top of the screen without folding onto itself
> but still does bend to the right slightly
>
> You guys are too cool !!! thanks for all your help !!!!
>
>
> <joshers17@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1118378363.944722.139780@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>> Hmm the only thing I can think of near C310 and C311 is the vertical
>> Output transistor..according to the schematic diagram..labeled as Q302.
>>
>> Got the schematic from
>> http://slot-tech-ftp.serveftp.com:8080/technical_department/monitors/monitor%20schematic%20diagrams/wg_k4900_med_res.jpg
>>
>> Hope this gives ya a starting point..
>> Josh
>>
>
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Hi Steve

where is the best place for me to get parts for this chassis, should I buy
some non working chassis from e-bay and take parts from them or is there a
place that will sell just what parts I am looking for at reasonable prices

thanks again for all your help and yes it feels grate to have fixed this
myself instead of buying a replacement chassis for 95$ US :

http://quarterarcade.com/Game.aspx/3478

Rob Z.


"Steve Muccione" <home*DOT*muccione@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:Abfqe.6783$wL2.5623@trndny07...
> that sounds like the horizontal hold is off a bit...
>
> you might try replacint the transistor to get rid of some of the
> jitteryness, especially after doing some damage to that portion of the
> circuit...
>
> (doesn't it feel good fixing it ).
>
> steve

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

hey Rob,

www.therealbobroberts.com has just about everything you need to rebuild the
4900 (except for a new fly which you'll have to scrounge somewhere if it
turns out you need one... I don't think you do).

the pot's he sells aren't the right ones for the chassis, but it is possible
to bend the legs and make it fit (I've done this) and it works well enough.

He sells the transistors and the IC in addition to cap-kits. It's really
one of the most usefull sites to get parts for most of the common games
you'll see (and many uncommon ones to!).

steve

"Rob Z." <rziniukNOSPAM@rogers.com> wrote in message
news:tPGdnTpd2dnMoTffRVn-rg@rogers.com...
> Hi Steve
>
> where is the best place for me to get parts for this chassis, should I buy
> some non working chassis from e-bay and take parts from them or is there a
> place that will sell just what parts I am looking for at reasonable prices
>
> thanks again for all your help and yes it feels grate to have fixed this
> myself instead of buying a replacement chassis for 95$ US :
>
> http://quarterarcade.com/Game.aspx/3478
>
> Rob Z.
>
>
> "Steve Muccione" <home*DOT*muccione@verizon.net> wrote in message
> news:Abfqe.6783$wL2.5623@trndny07...
>> that sounds like the horizontal hold is off a bit...
>>
>> you might try replacint the transistor to get rid of some of the
>> jitteryness, especially after doing some damage to that portion of the
>> circuit...
>>
>> (doesn't it feel good fixing it ).
>>
>> steve
>
>