Hantarex Polo help needed

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Was capping a Hantarex Polo and right as I got to the end, I dropped it.

Was working okay before, now I don't even get high voltage.

I've followed Randy Fromm's flowchart to no avail. What else could be
wrong with this, that's not on the chart, related to the fall? Have
checked for cracked joints extensively, still no luck.

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Check the high wattage resistors on the right side (high voltage side),
there are at least 2 that are problematic because of vibration, falls etc.

"Peale" <apeale69@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Xns969451896415Capeale69hotmailcom@130.81.64.196...
> Was capping a Hantarex Polo and right as I got to the end, I dropped it.
>
> Was working okay before, now I don't even get high voltage.
>
> I've followed Randy Fromm's flowchart to no avail. What else could be
> wrong with this, that's not on the chart, related to the fall? Have
> checked for cracked joints extensively, still no luck.
>
> --
> Do you want a free iPod?
> http://www.freeipods.com/?r=15154431

 

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"G. Silber" <gsilber666@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:44ydnWv1wsu5cUrfRVn-uA@comcast.com:

> Check the high wattage resistors on the right side (high voltage
> side), there are at least 2 that are problematic because of vibration,
> falls etc.

Thanks for your advice.

Another tech must have been working on it, because now I can hear high
voltage, but no heater glow or picture.

Randy Fromm's flowchart states to check R35 - does this have to be done
out of circuit?

Also states to check high voltage unit. I assume this means the flyback?
--
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"Peale" <apeale69@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Xns9694EC298BB69apeale69hotmailcom@130.81.64.196...
> "G. Silber" <gsilber666@hotmail.com> wrote in
> news:44ydnWv1wsu5cUrfRVn-uA@comcast.com:
>
>> Check the high wattage resistors on the right side (high voltage
>> side), there are at least 2 that are problematic because of vibration,
>> falls etc.
>
> Thanks for your advice.
>
> Another tech must have been working on it, because now I can hear high
> voltage, but no heater glow or picture.
>
> Randy Fromm's flowchart states to check R35 - does this have to be done
> out of circuit?
>
> Also states to check high voltage unit. I assume this means the flyback?
> --
> Do you want a free iPod?
> http://www.freeipods.com/?r=15154431

Are you sure you hear high voltage? If so, your flyback (high voltage unit
is working). R35 is the drop resistor for the heater, an open would cause no
heater glow. You don't need to take it out of circuit, no. If the resistor
measures ok (about 1 ohm) then look for cracks around R35 and elsewhere on
the neck board.

 

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"G. Silber" <gsilber666@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:6d2dnRSE4rHBAkXfRVn-tQ@comcast.com:

> Are you sure you hear high voltage? If so, your flyback (high voltage
> unit is working). R35 is the drop resistor for the heater, an open
> would cause no heater glow. You don't need to take it out of circuit,
> no. If the resistor measures ok (about 1 ohm) then look for cracks
> around R35 and elsewhere on the neck board.

Am I sure? No...but I can hear that distinctive high-pitched whine when
it's turned on.

--
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http://www.freeipods.com/?r=15154431

 

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"Peale" <apeale69@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Xns9695A8899577apeale69hotmailcom@130.81.64.196...
> "G. Silber" <gsilber666@hotmail.com> wrote in
> news:6d2dnRSE4rHBAkXfRVn-tQ@comcast.com:
>
>> Are you sure you hear high voltage? If so, your flyback (high voltage
>> unit is working). R35 is the drop resistor for the heater, an open
>> would cause no heater glow. You don't need to take it out of circuit,
>> no. If the resistor measures ok (about 1 ohm) then look for cracks
>> around R35 and elsewhere on the neck board.
>
> Am I sure? No...but I can hear that distinctive high-pitched whine when
> it's turned on.
>
> --
> Do you want a free iPod?
> http://www.freeipods.com/?r=15154431

A whine could be the HOT working, and not necessarily the flyback. Take the
flyback suction cup off of the tube and lay it on a safe place nowhere near
the chassis ground if you can. If you can't, don't do this. Turn it on. If
the sound is the same, then the whine sound is the HOT and not the flyback.
I've seen plenty of flybacks go bad on POLOs without doing damage elsewhere.
And if the flyback isn't working then the heater has no source. Did you
measure the heater voltage? I still wouldn't suspect the flyback anyway if
it was working before it was dropped. I know I mentioned the resistors, but
look very closely at them (on the edge of the board on the outside of the
heat sinks)

 

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"G. Silber" <gsilber666@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:2eidnWf9-ap1KkffRVn-rw@comcast.com:

> A whine could be the HOT working, and not necessarily the flyback.
> Take the flyback suction cup off of the tube and lay it on a safe
> place nowhere near the chassis ground if you can. If you can't, don't
> do this. Turn it on. If the sound is the same, then the whine sound is
> the HOT and not the flyback. I've seen plenty of flybacks go bad on
> POLOs without doing damage elsewhere. And if the flyback isn't working
> then the heater has no source. Did you measure the heater voltage? I
> still wouldn't suspect the flyback anyway if it was working before it
> was dropped. I know I mentioned the resistors, but look very closely
> at them (on the edge of the board on the outside of the heat sinks)

I know the flyback was replaced earlier this year with a new one, but
what effect dropping it from three-ish feet would have on it, I don't
know. I won't be able to look at it again until tomorrow, when I go back
to work.

The monitor was working fine (albiet needing caps) before I dropped it,
so...

And yes, I already replaced all the caps.
--
Do you want a free iPod?
http://www.freeipods.com/?r=15154431

 

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"Peale" <apeale69@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Xns9696B2C26B85Dapeale69hotmailcom@130.81.64.196...
> "G. Silber" <gsilber666@hotmail.com> wrote in
> news:2eidnWf9-ap1KkffRVn-rw@comcast.com:
>
>> A whine could be the HOT working, and not necessarily the flyback.
>> Take the flyback suction cup off of the tube and lay it on a safe
>> place nowhere near the chassis ground if you can. If you can't, don't
>> do this. Turn it on. If the sound is the same, then the whine sound is
>> the HOT and not the flyback. I've seen plenty of flybacks go bad on
>> POLOs without doing damage elsewhere. And if the flyback isn't working
>> then the heater has no source. Did you measure the heater voltage? I
>> still wouldn't suspect the flyback anyway if it was working before it
>> was dropped. I know I mentioned the resistors, but look very closely
>> at them (on the edge of the board on the outside of the heat sinks)
>
> I know the flyback was replaced earlier this year with a new one, but
> what effect dropping it from three-ish feet would have on it, I don't
> know. I won't be able to look at it again until tomorrow, when I go back
> to work.
>
> The monitor was working fine (albiet needing caps) before I dropped it,
> so...
>
> And yes, I already replaced all the caps.
> --
> Do you want a free iPod?
> http://www.freeipods.com/?r=15154431

Just to hear the whine noise you mention to identify what it is to get a
better idea of where to go. Again, if it stopped working after you dropped
it, then a component susceptible to a drop (mainly resistors, possibly
transformers) on the edge and at the neck is where I'd look.

 

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"G. Silber" <gsilber666@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:6e2dncVTa5ebbEffRVn-2g@comcast.com:

> Just to hear the whine noise you mention to identify what it is to get
> a better idea of where to go. Again, if it stopped working after you
> dropped it, then a component susceptible to a drop (mainly resistors,
> possibly transformers) on the edge and at the neck is where I'd look.

Dropped the chassis sans the tube, so it just *might* be the flyback.

I hope not. It was just replaced.

I'll do some more touching up on the heater circuit when I see it
tomorrow, hopefully that will bring *something* around.

Can you *kill* a resistor in a drop?

--
Do you want a free iPod?
http://www.freeipods.com/?r=15154431

 

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"Peale" <apeale69@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Xns9696D22F095C5apeale69hotmailcom@130.81.64.196...
> "G. Silber" <gsilber666@hotmail.com> wrote in
> news:6e2dncVTa5ebbEffRVn-2g@comcast.com:
>
>> Just to hear the whine noise you mention to identify what it is to get
>> a better idea of where to go. Again, if it stopped working after you
>> dropped it, then a component susceptible to a drop (mainly resistors,
>> possibly transformers) on the edge and at the neck is where I'd look.
>
> Dropped the chassis sans the tube, so it just *might* be the flyback.
>
> I hope not. It was just replaced.
>
> I'll do some more touching up on the heater circuit when I see it
> tomorrow, hopefully that will bring *something* around.
>
> Can you *kill* a resistor in a drop?
>
> --
> Do you want a free iPod?
> http://www.freeipods.com/?r=15154431

It's possible it could break, but would probably need a direct hit.