Jerry

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I've installed t-molding a few times, it always seems to have a
'rippled' look to it. I usually tap it in with a rubber mallet, keeping
tension on it as I go around. It sits flat, the ripple's are spaced
about a 1/2" apart and only show when light reflects off of the
surface. Does anyone have a technique that doesn't cause this?
Jerry
 
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I use a hot glue gun to stick down the T-molding in sections where the
groove is worn.
 
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Ripple can sometimes be caused by the way you notch your t molding prior to
installation. Just a thought.

Chris M

"Jerry" <jpl_812@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1121987849.954249.184400@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
> I've installed t-molding a few times, it always seems to have a
> 'rippled' look to it. I usually tap it in with a rubber mallet, keeping
> tension on it as I go around. It sits flat, the ripple's are spaced
> about a 1/2" apart and only show when light reflects off of the
> surface. Does anyone have a technique that doesn't cause this?
> Jerry
>
 
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Installing it when extremely hot or cold can also cause some rippling. I
usually use a rolling pin to smooth it out when it happens.

"Jerry" <jpl_812@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1121987849.954249.184400@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
> I've installed t-molding a few times, it always seems to have a
> 'rippled' look to it. I usually tap it in with a rubber mallet, keeping
> tension on it as I go around. It sits flat, the ripple's are spaced
> about a 1/2" apart and only show when light reflects off of the
> surface. Does anyone have a technique that doesn't cause this?
> Jerry
>
 
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humm.. I usually don't apply any tension at all when I'm installing
t-molding. I just it beat it progressivly with a mallet until it's in. I
don't recall ever having any real ripple problem...

"Jerry" <jpl_812@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1121987849.954249.184400@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
> I've installed t-molding a few times, it always seems to have a
> 'rippled' look to it. I usually tap it in with a rubber mallet, keeping
> tension on it as I go around. It sits flat, the ripple's are spaced
> about a 1/2" apart and only show when light reflects off of the
> surface. Does anyone have a technique that doesn't cause this?
> Jerry
>
 
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It could be related to the head angle of the mallet you're using? I
use a shot filled dead blow hammer (also good for fixing Merc outdrives
:) and strike the t-molding squarely instead of at an angle.

Using square blows spaced very close together should eliminate the
rippled look.

Mike Doyle
 
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The easiest t-molding installation I ever had was the time I left the
molding out in the sun for several hours by accident (I was working
with the garage door open on a nice late spring day.) When it came time
to install the molding, it was soft and pliable, and it literally only
took minuites to install all of it, just smothing it into the groove as
I went.

I'm guessing this technique might not be recommended for t-molding that
can fade in the sun. This molding was white.

-Dave Ellis
http://www.davesclassicarcade.com

Jerry wrote:
> I've installed t-molding a few times, it always seems to have a
> 'rippled' look to it. I usually tap it in with a rubber mallet, keeping
> tension on it as I go around. It sits flat, the ripple's are spaced
> about a 1/2" apart and only show when light reflects off of the
> surface. Does anyone have a technique that doesn't cause this?
> Jerry