Surface Preparation for Full Decal

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

I am restoring a badly damaged Centipede Cabaret and am getting ready
to apply my new Woodgrain Vinyl to the first side.

In preparation for this event i have done the following.

1) Sand entire side with 60 grit orbital sander. Due to some water
damage this caused pieces of the original woodgrain to sand off. I was
left with a side that was pretty smooth but a mixture of old woodgrain
and sanded down high spots.

2) Bondo. Lots of bondo! All four corners needed work and many other
blemishes were filled and sanded. After about ten iterations I think I
have a fairly smooth and level surface.

Before I apply my new vinyl I want to make sure that it has a ultra
smooth surface to adhere to. I would hate to go to all this work for
it to peel up next year.

So what should i do for a final prep?

1)Polyurethane? I am concerned about applying this to a surface of
fake woodgrain, bondo, and wood. I am also concerned about the cure
time. Do i need to wait a month before I can apply the decal?

2)Paint? I am concerned about paint not being thick enough to give me
the super smooth finish i need for a decal.

Please give me your advice!!

Thanks,
Phil

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Just a thought- depending on the severity of the water damage, have you
considered totally replacing the sides? Centipede cabarets have a very
basic shape and you could use either particle board or MDF, either of
which would provide a good substrate for your woodgrain vinyl.

Sometimes with old particle board, once it gets wet the binder holding
the wood particles together is forever compromised and it will continue
to shed until it's gone.

If the damage is less involved, you might try multiple coats of lacquer
which will work as a sealer and pinhole filler. The benefit is the
quick drying time of lacquer and it's ease of sanding. It should
out-gas quickly so your vinyl would be less likely to peel up as is
sometimes the case with poly-urea clear coats.

Weigh the benefits of replacing the sides -vs- patching them up
carefully. Any job worth doing is worth doing right

Mike Doyle

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Mike,

The water damage is not terrible. After sanding off the woodgrain in
the high spots. I does of Minwax Woodhardener was used. This stuff
worked great. The cabinet is structurally sound. So lacquer? That is
a good idea. Any brand suggestions?

Im definately doing it right. I have been working on this machine for
over a year. Not gonna cut coners now, no pun intended.

Phil

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

I've done something like this before with the Happ Black Pica Vinyl
(which is a little thicker than most, but may serve as a good example
here). I'd suggest spraying with a few coats of quality automotive
primer and sanding with high grit paper inbetween. The results I had
were great. Also, the primer sealed the bare particle board against
further water problems, so I could use the Windex trick to apply the
vinyl.

Also, using a primer color different from the primary color of your
cabinet can help you notice high/low spots while sanding.

Good luck!

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

ive decided to do a couple coats of black paint. hand sanding with 220
inbetween coats. i think this will smooth out the small
inconsistancies left. i will do my best to report back here with pics
soon!

phil

 

[Prok]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

I'm cool with this suggestion except for the sandpaper grit.. 100 grit and
lower is way more than is necessary and will cause more harm than good. I
can see using it to eat away rotted spots, but never on smooth spots. Hit
it with 150 or higher to smooth it out.. and use some wood rot arrester to
strengthen the rotten spots. Skip the primer and windex/water...

/b

http://www.tutankham.com soon to be --> http://www.rgvac.com

"arcaderehab" <mail@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:1122478560_2305@spool6-east.superfeed.net...
> Hi Phil,
>
> 1) Take off original vinyl with a heat gun.
> 3) Sand it with 60-100 grit.
> 4) Bondo, sand flush.
> 5) Sand it with 200 grit.
> 6) Blow it with an air compressor.
> 7) Wipe with a tack cloth.
> 8) Put vinyl on.
>
> That's what I would do.
>
> Best,
>
> Jim
>
> "Zimmer" <phil@zimmerland.com> wrote in message
> news:1122474687.798133.61730@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>>I am restoring a badly damaged Centipede Cabaret and am getting ready
>> to apply my new Woodgrain Vinyl to the first side.
>>
>> In preparation for this event i have done the following.
>>
>> 1) Sand entire side with 60 grit orbital sander. Due to some water
>> damage this caused pieces of the original woodgrain to sand off. I was
>> left with a side that was pretty smooth but a mixture of old woodgrain
>> and sanded down high spots.
>>
>> 2) Bondo. Lots of bondo! All four corners needed work and many other
>> blemishes were filled and sanded. After about ten iterations I think I
>> have a fairly smooth and level surface.
>>
>> Before I apply my new vinyl I want to make sure that it has a ultra
>> smooth surface to adhere to. I would hate to go to all this work for
>> it to peel up next year.
>>
>> So what should i do for a final prep?
>>
>> 1)Polyurethane? I am concerned about applying this to a surface of
>> fake woodgrain, bondo, and wood. I am also concerned about the cure
>> time. Do i need to wait a month before I can apply the decal?
>>
>> 2)Paint? I am concerned about paint not being thick enough to give me
>> the super smooth finish i need for a decal.
>>
>> Please give me your advice!!
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Phil
>>
>
>
>
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[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

I would primer it if I was you.. I always prime all the cabs that I use
full sideart on. Just make sure you sand it with some 200-220 grit after
you prime it. In my experience peel and stick stuff adheres alot better to
paint than to bare wood. I know other folks think differently but that's
just my experience.

Scott

www.agelessarcade.com


"prOk" <bsonej@hotmail.com> wrote in message
newsqGdnXzyoo0vgXXfRVn-jg@usa2net.net...
> I'm cool with this suggestion except for the sandpaper grit.. 100 grit
> and lower is way more than is necessary and will cause more harm than
> good. I can see using it to eat away rotted spots, but never on smooth
> spots. Hit it with 150 or higher to smooth it out.. and use some wood rot
> arrester to strengthen the rotten spots. Skip the primer and
> windex/water...
>
> /b
>
> http://www.tutankham.com soon to be --> http://www.rgvac.com
>
> "arcaderehab" <mail@nospam.com> wrote in message
> news:1122478560_2305@spool6-east.superfeed.net...
>> Hi Phil,
>>
>> 1) Take off original vinyl with a heat gun.
>> 3) Sand it with 60-100 grit.
>> 4) Bondo, sand flush.
>> 5) Sand it with 200 grit.
>> 6) Blow it with an air compressor.
>> 7) Wipe with a tack cloth.
>> 8) Put vinyl on.
>>
>> That's what I would do.
>>
>> Best,
>>
>> Jim
>>
>> "Zimmer" <phil@zimmerland.com> wrote in message
>> news:1122474687.798133.61730@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>>>I am restoring a badly damaged Centipede Cabaret and am getting ready
>>> to apply my new Woodgrain Vinyl to the first side.
>>>
>>> In preparation for this event i have done the following.
>>>
>>> 1) Sand entire side with 60 grit orbital sander. Due to some water
>>> damage this caused pieces of the original woodgrain to sand off. I was
>>> left with a side that was pretty smooth but a mixture of old woodgrain
>>> and sanded down high spots.
>>>
>>> 2) Bondo. Lots of bondo! All four corners needed work and many other
>>> blemishes were filled and sanded. After about ten iterations I think I
>>> have a fairly smooth and level surface.
>>>
>>> Before I apply my new vinyl I want to make sure that it has a ultra
>>> smooth surface to adhere to. I would hate to go to all this work for
>>> it to peel up next year.
>>>
>>> So what should i do for a final prep?
>>>
>>> 1)Polyurethane? I am concerned about applying this to a surface of
>>> fake woodgrain, bondo, and wood. I am also concerned about the cure
>>> time. Do i need to wait a month before I can apply the decal?
>>>
>>> 2)Paint? I am concerned about paint not being thick enough to give me
>>> the super smooth finish i need for a decal.
>>>
>>> Please give me your advice!!
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Phil
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet
>> News==----
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>> Newsgroups
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>> =----
>
>