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Where is a good place to buy electronics?

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Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

 

In particular I am looking for electrolytic capacitors. I have a
Wizard of Wor that is in need of some TLC. Presently going thru the
power regulator board. I'm having trouble finding some of the larger
capacitors. I can find some that are "close" but I would rather use
the proper values. Any suggestions?

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Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

 

Vintage Geek wrote:
> In particular I am looking for electrolytic capacitors. I have a
> Wizard of Wor that is in need of some TLC. Presently going thru the
> power regulator board. I'm having trouble finding some of the larger
> capacitors. I can find some that are "close" but I would rather use
> the proper values. Any suggestions?
>
http://www.mouser.com

--
Bret Pehrson
bret@classicade.com

Classicade
http://www.classicade.com

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

 

I looked at Mouser. I only need one or two of a particular value
capaitor and their minimum purchase is fifty. Example: 10000uf 35v

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

 

I've bought from Mouser for years (although, admittedly, not in a while),
and don't recall them ever having a minimum.

"Vintage Geek" <daniel@mosmeyer.net> wrote in message
news:1122945838.756276.28590@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>I looked at Mouser. I only need one or two of a particular value
> capaitor and their minimum purchase is fifty. Example: 10000uf 35v
>

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

 

Also try Jameco, JDR, Digikey, and Electronic Goldmine.

"Vintage Geek" <daniel@mosmeyer.net> wrote in message
news:1122945838.756276.28590@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>I looked at Mouser. I only need one or two of a particular value
> capaitor and their minimum purchase is fifty. Example: 10000uf 35v
>

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

 

its best if you just get a switcher kit. you dont have to hack your
wiring, those big caps are too damn expensive. you can get a switcher
for the price of 3 of those monster caps, and it will last longer and
is easily swapped out if it fails.

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

 

Found a good place.......finally.
http://www.newark.com/

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

 

I disagree. A properly built linear will outperform and outlast any cheap switcher.
The only thing a switcher buys you is time.

Matt

"ultra tech" <who_won@hotmail.com> wrote
> its best if you just get a switcher kit. you dont have to hack your
> wiring, those big caps are too damn expensive. you can get a switcher
> for the price of 3 of those monster caps, and it will last longer and
> is easily swapped out if it fails.

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

 

I agree- I prefer a rebuilt linear over a switcher anyday although I've
put more than a few switchers in for a quick fix. For my keepers
though, rebuilt linears are the way to go. I've seen several new
switchers fail in weeks to a few months of use.

I've tried to stick to a program of rebuilding all the power supplies
on my keepers when I'm cleaning the cabs, but I've got a few to go
still.

Mike Doyle

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

 

My sentiments exactly. If it's a keeper it's worth spending the extra time on.
I know we've all thrown switchers in just to get a game up and running....
I avoid those cheapo switchers targeted for the amusement industry whenever
possible. For the same or less than the price of those (new) I can pick up a
used Acopian or Lambda power supply from a nearby surplus electronics dealer.
For those of you not familiar with those names, they make scientific quality
power supplies that cost $200+ new. And I can usually snag them for around
$10-15 each. Sweet!
When I find these I usually reserve them for my own machines, but once I
fixed a guy's Frogger with a $300 power supply! Of course it only cost
me (and him) $10. Pretty funny... but I guarantee his Frogger is still working!

Matt

<syncbus@gmail.com> wrote
>I agree- I prefer a rebuilt linear over a switcher anyday although I've
> put more than a few switchers in for a quick fix. For my keepers
> though, rebuilt linears are the way to go. I've seen several new
> switchers fail in weeks to a few months of use.
>
> I've tried to stick to a program of rebuilding all the power supplies
> on my keepers when I'm cleaning the cabs, but I've got a few to go
> still.
>
> Mike Doyle

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

 

it pends the brand of switcher. linears can fail quickly as well. my
point was that the big caps on linears are EXPENSIVE.
not for everyone who has a perfectly working linear to take it out and
put in a switcher.

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

 

ultra tech wrote:
> it pends the brand of switcher. linears can fail quickly as well. my
> point was that the big caps on linears are EXPENSIVE.
> not for everyone who has a perfectly working linear to take it out and
> put in a switcher.
>
Are you sure those caps are bad? Usually they don't go bad on their own.

--
Bret Pehrson
bret@classicade.com

Classicade
http://www.classicade.com

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

 

The most expensive one is about $1.75...and it has a DENT in it.

Below is from personal experience:
Electrolytics tend to s-l-o-w-l-y die as they get up in age. I have
replaced many that were nearly shorted internally but "looked fine".
Considering most of these are approaching 25 years of age, I think it
is cheap insurance....especially as I imagine these things are
beginning to "dry out". Case-in-point: Has anyone ever fixed a game by
replacing a Big Blue?

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

 

Vintage Geek wrote:
> The most expensive one is about $1.75...and it has a DENT in it.
>
> Below is from personal experience:
> Electrolytics tend to s-l-o-w-l-y die as they get up in age. I have
> replaced many that were nearly shorted internally but "looked fine".
> Considering most of these are approaching 25 years of age, I think it
> is cheap insurance....especially as I imagine these things are
> beginning to "dry out". Case-in-point: Has anyone ever fixed a game by
> replacing a Big Blue?

$1.75 isn't expensive.


--
Bret Pehrson
bret@classicade.com

Classicade
http://www.classicade.com

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

 

I didn't thik so either.

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

 

>Found a good place.......finally. http://www.newark.com/

Newark has a $25 min order.
Mouser never used to have any.

Kirb

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

 

>Case-in-point: Has anyone ever fixed a game by
>replacing a Big Blue?

You fix a lot of games from CPU resets by replacing the main filter
caps. Mostly pinballs, but vids suffer the same fate.

Kirb

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