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New 400W-PSU and Windoze locks up! HELP!!!

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  • Graphics Cards
  • Windows XP
  • Graphics
Last response: in Graphics & Displays
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December 2, 2001 1:53:51 PM

Help!
I just bought a new 400W-PSU (since the old 250W-one didn't make it anymore)...
Now the HD spinns up no prob at startup, but when Windows (XP and 98) opens up and my GeForce2 ticks on, it kinda destabilizes the whole puter, the power fan slows doen a second, the card ticks on and off a couple of times and after that I have vertical lines on my screen and a locked up system.

What the h?ll??!!?

More about : 400w psu windoze locks

December 2, 2001 3:15:19 PM

Even a generic 400W PSU can cause problems!! What's the brand name of your PSU?

AMD technology + Intel technology = Intel/AMD Pentathlon IV; the <b>ULTIMATE</b> PC processor
December 2, 2001 4:59:53 PM

You know what? Actually that's right. I just compared the specs of the ol and the new one... Despite 400W-output, +3.3V only produces 14A, and that's even less than what my 250W-PSU was spitting. I'm gonna bring it back 2morro. They'd better give me my bucks back...
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a b U Graphics card
December 2, 2001 11:02:06 PM

Yes, I've been over the whole power supply issue several times. The abasolute WORST brand name power supply I've tried is Antec. But there are even worse generic ones. Try an Enermax, those seem to be the cheapest GOOD brand.

What's the frequency, Kenneth?
December 3, 2001 12:04:00 AM

Hmm, Antecs are bad? I thought they were on par with Enermaxs.

AMD technology + Intel technology = Intel/AMD Pentathlon IV; the <b>ULTIMATE</b> PC processor
December 3, 2001 12:53:30 AM

Just how is a power supply's rating calculated anyway? How does a manufacturer come up with the figure of 330 for a 330 watt power supply, for example? That 330 watts is the rating of my Enermax EG351P-VE. However, with peak current of 30 amps, 32 amps, and 14 amps on the 3.3volt, 5 volt and 12 volt lines, respectively, this implies peak power of 106 watts, 160 watts, and 168 watts. How do they come up the 330-watt rating? What's the formula?

<b>We are all beta testers!</b>
a b U Graphics card
December 3, 2001 1:15:06 AM

Normaly it would be 30x3.3, +32x5, +14x12, +?x-5. But anyway, SOME manufacturers simply add the peek values for each line, while others list the peek value for the entire supply. Because you can't use the peek values for every line simultaneously, the second method is more honest. They used to rate them at max continuous output, which was even more honest, and is the reason why I have old 165W power supplies that put out more power than most new 250W supplies

What's the frequency, Kenneth?
a b U Graphics card
December 3, 2001 2:10:29 AM

My Antec 250's handle about the same load as my 200 watt newtons, powertronics, etc. And they have more voltage variability.

What's the frequency, Kenneth?
December 3, 2001 11:09:29 AM

I noticed that the 400W-PSU I just bought spitted 14A on the 3.3Volt-rail. Kinda looooousy. My old 250W-PSU managed 15A... No wonder it doesn't make it when my GTS starts, what a crappy PSU. Avoid the brand "JNC" like hell!
December 3, 2001 3:26:19 PM

I had the exact same problem with you a few days ago. Bought a 400W PSU with 14-30-10 A(3.3-5-12 lines). Gave it back and bought a Herolchi 350W (anyone knows this brand?) which gives 20-33-15. The best thing is to look Amps before buying a PSU. Watts are just for the label...
December 3, 2001 4:25:15 PM

I really think ratings need to be standardized. I have a generic 300 watter with 14, 25, and 10 amp ratings for 3.3, 5, and 12 volt lines, which doesn't compare well with the Enermax (30, 32, 14).

When assessing a power supply, without a better method I always assume the amp ratings are peak ratings (which are not sustainable). I like to use 70% (arbitrary) of those figures to give a rough estimate to use for comparison. So for my Enermax, 0.7 * (3.3v * 30 amp + 5v * 32 amp + 12v * 14 amp) = 300 watts at 70% utilization. While the generic PSU is 0.7 * (3.3v * 14 amp + 5v * 25 amp + 12v * 10 amp) = 203 watts at 70%.

I have no idea if this has any validity in the real world but I just use it for comparison.

<b>We are all beta testers!</b><P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1><EM>Edited by phsstpok on 12/03/01 01:47 PM.</EM></FONT></P>
a b U Graphics card
December 4, 2001 1:23:47 AM

What you're doing is following the idea behind RMS ratings and Duty Cycles, but with simplified math. Problem is that you don't really know how they got those numbers in the first place.

What's the frequency, Kenneth?
December 4, 2001 4:25:06 AM

You're right. I don't know where the numbers come from but if I assume they are always peak values then my estimates are always conservative. Now if some manufacturer decides to use sustainable numbers instead of peak, (which I wish they would), I might accidentally discount that PSU. Doesn't really matter because I would prefer to go with brands that have a good reputation for reliability.

"What's the frequency, Kenneth?" What does this mean?

<b>We are all beta testers!</b>
December 5, 2001 8:55:23 AM

I have found Sparkle Power Supplies are reliable. The cooling fans run quite, they have large aluminum heat sinks and use heavy guage wire leads with quality insulation and connectors.
Also they provide normal load and max load power ratings.
I have been using the FSP300-60BT model for five months with only one voltage regulation alarm. I didn't notice but it was probably caused by a line voltage fluctuation.
My system is fairly power hungry. I have lots of accessories.


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