Up until now i have been impressed by the sheer stability of my computer, and recently got a UPS to further my stability cause.
2 nights ago i did a BIOS flash to the 2619 bios. I also installed some new drivers. The BIOS flash was done sucessfully and i used the PC for about 4 hours afterwards, with a couple of reboots to install new drivers and my personal bios settings. nothing special. not overclocked, just hard memory timings, slightly raised Vdimm (2.6v) for stability and a reduced Vcore (1.625v) for extra cool running of the XP1800+.
at the end of the night the OS was hibernated and the PC was shutdown like i do every evning.
The next day, nothing. I would get lights, fan spin and drive activity for a second and thats it.
Initially i thought it may be the new UPS doing something funny cauz i rearranged the cables. This was not the case. No change running directly from the wall.
Resetting the bios via the jumper did nothing.
All connectors were checked for proper seating, as were the cards, memory and i even checked the cpu. As expected it was fine, sitting under my massive immovable MCX-462.
Getting a bit worried at this point, i then removed the BIOS battery and turned off all power for 15 mins. This DID do something.
upon booting up now i WOULD get activity for more than a second... approximately 10 seconds now.
Lights would come on, fans spin, hard drives spool up (but no seeking), but after 10 seconds everything would power down.
At this point i noticed something disturbing. The LED 'boot diagnostic' display which is supposed to be active and count up during the boot process was dead/dormant. no sign of activity from it at any point.
*sighs*
im at a loss here... at one stage i thought it might be the bios setting of "no bootup with no system fan". so i plugged every 3pin fan i had into the cpu fan connector with no change.
also, i got the exact same 10 seconds of activity with and without the BIOS battery in.
what is wrong?
what cauzed it?
how do i fix it?
Other stuff of relivance:
Everything was working perfectly till last night! A super stable system with an uptime of days, able to do hours of gaming or divx making.
550W enermax PSU - so its definately not a juice problem
XP1800+ cpu was running at stock speeds, but 1.625v extreemly stable, full load 100% of the time.
The inside of the computer hasnt been looked at or touched for weeks.
the 2619 bios was downloaded twice and binary compared for integrety testing.
2619 bios flash went off with no problems. multiple reboots afterwards but no complete powerdowns.
thanx for reading.
Sad Master poo + hamster in mourning.
<font color=green>Proud member of THG's</font color=green> <font color=blue>Den Of Thieves</font color=blue>
It looks like a BIOS problem to me. The first time you did a full shutdown/hibernate it did not recover.
I'll check with some friends in other forums and see if they have any ideas.
<b><font color=blue>The shortest distance between two points is under construction....
something else which may or maynot be of importance...
with the previous bios flash or so the computer picked up an unusual property.
when power was applied at the wall the computer started up. normally it would just sit there untill the power button was applied. it wasnt bad really, just slightly unusual.
with the new bios and its current state it doesnt do that. i need to push the button to get my "10 seconds of activity"
and the lack of LED post numbers worries me.
<font color=green>Proud member of THG's</font color=green> <font color=blue>Den Of Thieves</font color=blue>
my first visit to motherboard land ok.. i had a similar but not identical problem on my old k63 450. after weeks of pulling my hair out i disbledthe onboard video and put in a riva tnt2 m64... guess what the damn computer worked fine for ever after. now i know u aint using onboard graphics but if u have a spare card it might be worth u swapping it out.. if possible try a pci card.
probably wont work but its the best i can suggest.
I'm out of my mind, but feel free to leave a message.
Just for a giggle yank the ram, try another or swap it around, vaguely familiar to something that happened to me.
Same time reset Cmos and battery removal etc.
I did the above as well as unplugging all non-essential drives and hardware, worked for me.
not overclocked, just hard memory timings, slightly raised Vdimm (2.6v) for stability and a reduced Vcore (1.625v) for extra cool running of the XP1800+.
i suggest you to increase the vCore to its standard voltage (1.75v) & to test again the comp with. maybe there is an issue here within the new configuration.
<i>if you know you don't know, the way could be more easy ...</i>
''How do I recover my BIOS from a bad flash? ''
Location: Frequently Asked Question
Article #: 1043
QUESTION
How do I recover my BIOS from a bad flash?
SOLUTION
If you have access to an old un-accelerated ISA video card, you might be able to recover your BIOS. Remove all cards and drives from your system, except for the ISA video card and the floppy drive. Then try to boot from a system disk (a bootable floppy with only the flash program and corresponding BIOS image). If you are able to boot to the floppy, flash your BIOS according to the directions on our website.
from <A HREF="http://www.epox.com/html/english/support/motherboard/Get.asp?Article=1043" target="_new">EPoX</A>
Quote :
''My computer gets no video (ISA, PCI or AGP). What is wrong? ''
Location: Frequently Asked Question
Article #: 1051
QUESTION
My computer gets no video (ISA, PCI or AGP). What is wrong?
SOLUTION
Reasons that a board will not `boot` could be memory, CPU, power supply, and/or video card related. In order you should check video card, memory, power supply and lastly CPU. CPUs rarely ever go bad. But as a rule reseat all your devices.
Make sure the memory has CLEAN contacts. Over time dirt may build up on the contacts. Also check the CPU for bent/missing pins. It may be possible that the CPU is not fully plugged in. Confirm all jumpers (CLOCK, MULTIPLIER, VOLTAGES).
Check your power supply. Does it power on? If not you may have a short. Is the power supply correctly set to the right VOLTAGE INPUT. This is usually found on the back of the power supply. It can be set by a small switch. Users with ATX power supplies and ATX motherboards have an additional wire to hook up. The wire from the front power switch MUST be connected to the motherboard in the correct location, or your computer will not power up. This connector is labeled something similar to Power On/Off.
Are all the cables correctly connected (PIN1 to PIN1)? PIN1 on cables usually are marked as a colored stripe. Check the monitor power and video connections. Try reseating the video card or putting it in a new slot (if available). Swap out the video card and/or the monitor. Try to clear the CMOS settings and also press the `insert` keyboard key upon power up or reset.
For AGP users- AGP video cards are easy to miss as the possible problem, because they must be FULLY inserted into the slot and the slightest amount of misalignment can prevent the AGP video card from working correctly or at all! If any of the AGPs gold/brass contacts are visible (where they connect to the motherboard) then you must reseat the CARD. The case may prevent the card from fully being seated. Try remounting the motherboard if possible and raise its height. AGP cards are designed differently from PCI and ISA cards. If you observe the connectors (where it plugs into the motherboard) you will notice two layers of gold/brass connectors. One layer is above the other. If possible assemble the motherboard, CPU, memory, and VIDEO CARD outside the case... to test the hardware before placing them inside your case. This will rule out the case as being the problem.
ADDITIONAL NOTES
If your motherboard has the optional P80P diagnostic display LED find below some common troubleshooting tips:
POST CODE Problem possibilities Tips to solve
FF or CF BIOS chip reversed.
Updated with wrong BIOS.
Motherboard problem.
Add-in card inserted wrong.
CPU problem.
Make sure BIOS chip is installed correctly.
Check all installed add-in cards.
Swap motherboard and/or processor.
C1 - C5
or
E1 - EE
Memory inserted wrong.
Memory compatibility problem.
Memory bad.
SPD data incorrect.
Make sure memory is installed correctly.
Swap memory.
Load BIOS defaults. Set memory timings manually.
2D Errors in video BIOS.
Video card inserted wrong.
Update video card BIOS.
Make sure video card is installed correctly.
Swap video card.
26 Overclock failed.
Clear CMOS or press insert key.
Reset jumpers to default.
Reset BIOS timings to default.
from <A HREF="http://www.epox.com/html/english/support/motherboard/Get.asp?Article=1051" target="_new">EPoX</A>
<i>if you know you don't know, the way could be more easy ...</i>
Problem solved!!! and boy... what a strangly simple solution.
so simple im embarrised to tell.
what i did was power up the PC as normal, then during the 10 seconds of system activity i pressed the reset button.
thats right... pressed the reset button, and suddenly the LED diagnostic display appeared and the system booted normally.
damn wierd. *shakes head*
ive tried 4 cold boots so far and it seems to be going fine.
dunno how but somehow the inital boot process must have been stuffed up. and this fixed what resetting the bios and removing the battery couldnt.
anyways, thankx all for the help and suggestions offered, fortunately i DONT have to RMA this board
ill keep an eye on it though, and let u know of any developments.
P.S. ive also tried 4 cold power on reboots before loading up windows, with the voltage and bios set to my fave settings (1.625Vcore) and its had no problems... so hopefully it was a one-off glitch.
<font color=purple>I am the Motherboard Destroyer!
Hear Me Roar!</font color=purple> <font color=orange>*SQUEAK*</font color=orange>
One thing I've seen that can cause all kinds of crazy behavior involves just what you did: the reset button. If it's one of those cases with a reset button you have to hit with a pen point or paper clip and it's made of softer rubber or plastic, then it's real common to have that button bend a tiny bit and hang up in the case hole. That results in the reset button being in a 'pressed' state at all times. If you had some reason to hit the reset button not long before the problem hit, I would consider that a prime suspect.
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