BSOD, Can't Install 64bit

lutsk92

Distinguished
Dec 19, 2010
12
0
18,510
Hey guys,

So here I am desktopless since 2 weeks trying to solve my issue.

It started when I was simply browsing with Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit operating system when I got a sudden BSOD since a long time. I thought it was my RAM finally acting up but the BSOD error message wasn't the usual Physical Memory Dump line. Instead, it says "Ntfs.sys PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA" "Technical information: *** STOP: 0x00000050 (0xFFFFF8A000B7BFF8, 0x00000000000000, 0xFFFFF88001E214E0, 0x00000000000000000)'' I paid the error code no mind, tried rebooting my computer but I can't ever get passed the Windows logo loading screen where it gives me the same BSOD right after. I was using one Corsair Vengeance RAM stick of 4GB at 1333MHz speed, tried switching it slots, tried the other RAM stick instead, tried em both on, nothing would do.

So I looked into the error message and read somewhere that it could be related to Hard Drive failure. I tried booting in safe mode but when loading the command lines on black screen, it always stops at "Windows/system32/DRIVERS/disk". So I thought my main SSD 240GB OCZ Vertex 3 drive was corrupted and decided to format it and reinstall Win7. It lets me choose which operating system I want, copies the files and all before telling me it needs to restart to complete installation but when it does, I get the stuck in the same loophole problem again where the BSOD appears after Windows logo.
Thinking that my SSD has gone defective, I switch to my Samsung HDD and format, install Windows7 there. Nope, same problem happens too.

So I went to a retail store, bought 2 different pairs of RAM sticks as opposed to my Corsair Vengeance (Crucial and G.Skill Ripjaws X), tried em all with only one RAM stick, different slots, or both of them together, I still get the same problem..

I asked one of my friends to let me borrow a motherboard he wasn't using (Asus P8Z68-V LE) that I switched from my Asus P8P67 Deluxe which I set all BIOS to default for sure. That didn't solve my problem either.

I used two old HDDs that were lying around at my house and another WD one that I bought from the store, formatted them and installed Windows7 too but still same problem. I also noticed some other error appearing while I was trying to boot after install and it says "STOP: c000021a {Fatal System Error} The Verification of a knownDLL failed. system process terminated unexpectedly with status of 0xc0000020 (0x8f559c40 0x000000000). The system has been shut down." Also, when trying to boot in safe mode, it sometimes stops at Windows/system32/DRIVERS/ClassPNP.sys instead of disk at the end depending on which HDD I use.

In the end, I tried all combinations possible (different MoBo, different RAM brands single stick and different HDDs). Nothing that can let me boot up from a fresh installation.

But what's strange is that I can install 32bit operating system with no problem when booting up. I can access everything normally at that point. So since I can boot from a 32bit but not 64bit, it has something to do with my RAM, right? I have tried over 3 different brands though and intend to try some Kingston now without much hope. I really need to use the 64bit version.

Any ideas?

Original Setup:

Asus P8P67 Deluxe (default) (Now using Asus P8Z68-V LE default)
Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1333MHz 2x4GB 8-8-8-2400
i7-2600K default 3.4GHz (was at 4.8GHz stable)
GTX 670 Gigabyte

Edit: I also tried installing Windows 7 64bit from 2 different DVDs with each a different source.
 

lutsk92

Distinguished
Dec 19, 2010
12
0
18,510
I RMA'd my previous Asus MoBo, should get my replacement soon now, I'll let you guys know if something happens. I'm still looking forward for some more ideas though.
 

TenPc

Honorable
Jul 11, 2012
2,471
1
11,960
You have to use a pair (2) sticks of ram and not just one.
Even though you got 2 sticks in the other motherboard, you don't mention PSU, if it is less than 600 watts, then that could be the problem.
 

lutsk92

Distinguished
Dec 19, 2010
12
0
18,510
Oh sorry, no I have a Kingswin LZG-1000 PSU (meaning 1000W ofc). I'll try setting both ram sticks again just to make sure. Also, could it be that my PSU is dying maybe?
 

TenPc

Honorable
Jul 11, 2012
2,471
1
11,960
Most current motherboards automatically detect whether you install 32 bit or 64 bit OS however, the older motherboards required you to choose that option in the BIOS.

It's not necessarily the PSU, even though 1000 Watts is rather extreme for this rig.
 

lutsk92

Distinguished
Dec 19, 2010
12
0
18,510
Well I use GTX 670 SLI actually but simply didn't mention it since i'm only using one of them for my tweaking situation.

I've tried everything else besides CPU and PSU so it is my next target right now.
 

lutsk92

Distinguished
Dec 19, 2010
12
0
18,510
So I bought a brand new 520W Dynex PSU, plugged in everything, the problem still persists.

Now, when trying to reinstall Windows 7, it won't even let me select which operating system I want to select with either 3 different DVDs of Windows7 from different sources, it will BSOD right after the "Windows is loading files" bar and Windows loading logo saying again "A problem has been detected and Windows has been shut down to prevent damage to your computer..." Technical information error code "*** STOP: 0x000000F4 (0x0000003, 0x82902D40, 0x82902EAC, 0x8BC35D50)".

As well as the other BSOD shorter version saying "STOP: c000021a {Fatal System Error} The verification of a KnownDLL failed. system process terminated unexpectedly with a status of 0xc0000221 (0x8F230818 0x00000000). The system has been shut down."

The error codes number digits keep changing with every BSOD. If that tips off a hint, I don't know what it is.

Guys, I tried EVERYTHING aside from a different CPU. I\m not sure what to do anymore at this point.
 

lutsk92

Distinguished
Dec 19, 2010
12
0
18,510
Update:

1. I tried booting from USB instead of DVD.
2. Disconnected my optical drive when booting.
3. Switching from AHCI to IDE in BIOS.
 

TenPc

Honorable
Jul 11, 2012
2,471
1
11,960
You don't get a BSoD if you boot from a DVD disk or usb device, the BSoD is a Windows message meaning that you are still going directly to the OS hdd.

If you cannot boot from another device then the disk is not a bootable disk meaning that there is no BOOT data on the disk that allows you to boot from it (disk also referring o a usb flash memory drive).

 

TenPc

Honorable
Jul 11, 2012
2,471
1
11,960
Also, if your Windows version was not genuine, a recent Windows update called KB971033 basically destoys the operating system giving the BSoD but gives you warninng messages in the task bar prior to nuking your system after a few weeks.
http://forums.mydigitallife.info/threads/19404-Not-genuine-after-KB971033-update-Read-this!

If the current OS is 32 bit, you can't install a 64 bit over the top of it, you would have to format the hdd first prior to installl.
 

lutsk92

Distinguished
Dec 19, 2010
12
0
18,510
Then what do you call that blue screen error you get when it's preventing your system from booting? What does disk include? If none of my drives are bootable (optical drive, hard drives, usb drive), would you be suggesting something?

I am aware of that KB971033 update, I never updated it in the first place and anyways as I mentioned before, I formatted my hard drives so many times now.
 

TenPc

Honorable
Jul 11, 2012
2,471
1
11,960
A format sometimes does not delete the hidden partition that an OS creates, you might have to use a Parttion Utility to check for a hidden partition. Psrtition Magic version 8 is the best to use, it's bootable, also Norton Ghost version 9 is a bootable version.

FDISK utility can still detect most hard drives even though it's an old utility but a 64 bit chipset can give false readings, so a utility as mentioned would be better.

The Dynex 520 Watt PSU is not good enough, as per the specs in the PDF Manual -
the total amps on the combined 12 volt rail os only 34amps.
max watts is 420 watts, peak power is 520 watts,
(peak power is not a continuos load, it is an intermtttent load when extra power is required.)
The input Voltage ranges from 115 to 230 volt. Depending on where you live, most countries use 240 volt although that doesn't necessarily rule out the use of 230 volt, it just implies that there might be a shortfall with the peak power, or when used with other 240 volt appliances, there "might" be some sort iof issue.

Basically, it's not good enough for your rig. A Seasonic PSU with 650 watts would be more suited.

As for the bsod, remove the sata/power cables of the hard drives and then see if the bsod occurs.

An SSD cannot be repeatedly formatted, you will lose parts of the memory, it might be that you have already damaged part od that memory causing "bad sectors" a term used for disk driven drives, not sure but possibly.

Check the bios for the total storage capacity or remove the SSD and check it in another Pc for total storage capacity. A false (or lower) reading implies part of the memory has changed for the SSD.

Windows 7 x64 (and x32) will not install on a hard drive with bad sectors, this might be the cause of the BSoD.