$1000 Building a Computer for 3D Rendering and Programming

jddg5wa

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Jan 24, 2013
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I am building a new computer for use in 3D rendering since mine is giving me trouble and running slow when multitasking and such. It also tends to crash when I put to much strain on the graphics card.

Approximate Purchase Date:
As Soon As Possible (Within Next Week Atleast)

Budget Range:
Approx $1000 (before any rebates)

System Usage from Most to Least Important:
Hardcore 3D rendering (Blender), Multi Tasking, Graphics (Photoshop, Illustrator), Gaming, Web Development, Programming, Web Browsing, Gaming.

Parts Not Required:
Monitor, Speakers, Harddrive, Mouse, Keyboard, Operating System

Country:
USA

Parts Preferences:
Dual Monitor Capability

Monitor Resolution:
1920x1080

Overclocking:
Maybe

SLI or Crossfire:
Don't know

Additional Comments:
I am a freelance 3D graphic and web designer. I'm in the need to update my computer pretty soon, have freelance projects I am working on right now, since it is running slow for what computer are capable of today and my the graphics crashes when I put to much strain. I would like something that can run fast and multitask well.

I haven't bought a computer in over 5 years since I haven't needed to upgrade before but now my computer is slow and giving troubles. The slowness actually effects my income so I am looking to upgrade.

What are your thoughts on the newer 8 cores and sandy bridges? Ivy bridge vs Sandy Bridge? Possibly looking into getting a workstation graphics card but I'm doing more research.
 
1K isn't much to build a 3D rendering machine.

You will have to sacrifice a professional video card in exchange for a bit more power and some CUDA ability.

Eventually you can add a CPU cooler and overclock a bit, and perhaps buy a workstation video card.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($304.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Pro4-M Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($106.56 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix sport 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($99.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Crucial M4 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($115.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 650 Ti 1GB Video Card ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Rosewill Line-M MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: XFX ProSeries 450W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($52.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224BB DVD/CD Writer ($15.98 @ Outlet PC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($89.98 @ Outlet PC)
Total: $961.46
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-03-21 04:42 EDT-0400)
 

jddg5wa

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Jan 24, 2013
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Thanks so much for the help!



I'm curious, just for knowledge, how did you know what motherboard to choose? I used to always hear you had to worry that parts might not work together. I've tried to research any tricks to knowing if things will work or not but I couldn't find anything clear. Such as ever switching out parts later how can I know if they will be compatible?

Also I didn't think of it as a part so I forgot to mention that I don't need an operating system as I already own Windows 7. And if it goes over $1000 a bit it doesn't hurt I just need to stay around that price. I removed the operating system, changed the power supply, and added a CPU cooler based on parts I saw on other threads. Are the changes I made any good? Would the higher wattage CPU actually make any difference?


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($304.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Pro4-M Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($106.56 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix sport 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($99.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Crucial M4 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($115.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 650 Ti 1GB Video Card ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Rosewill Line-M MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair Professional 750W 80 PLUS Silver Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($119.99 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224BB DVD/CD Writer ($15.98 @ Outlet PC)
Total: $978.47
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-03-21 05:21 EDT-0400)

I was also looking at workstation cards and even entry level are out of my range for now. Luckily I don't need anything too crazy enough that my graphics wont slowly die when I start rendering more than the computer I have was meant for.

Also thanks again, can't thank anyone, who's willing to help me with this, enough :)
 
Your PSU choice is massive overkill. Even if you get two workstation video cards in the future, you won't need that much, because the ones that you can afford generally use very low power.

Compromise
Seasonic X650
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151088
Same price, better manufacturer (the Corsair HX series is mostly made by CWT). Quieter.

On the MB selection:

1. Determine the CPU. In this case Ivy Bridge socket 1155.
2. Match the chipset to the CPU. chipsets for IB include Z77, Z75, B75, H77....
3. Choose the correct chipset for the needs of the user.
4. Figure out what the budget will allow.
5. Choose a brand and model based on personal experience and user input.
There is a parts guide in my signature that may help you.

You say you already own Windows 7. Do you own a full copy? Or an OEM license? Win 7 OEM may only be installed on one system, and cannot be transferred to a new one.

Workstation video cards are made the same way as gaming cards. The advantage is not the hardware, but the software. Drivers are optimized for programs such as Maya or Autocad or Blender. I think the CUDA capability of the card we chose will mostly make up for that.
 

jddg5wa

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Jan 24, 2013
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Yea I checked and luckily I had kept the receipt that says it is Windows 7 Home Premium Full. Also about the PSU would it be worth it to get something just as good quality but possibly lower wattage PSU. Then putting the extra money, if any, into upgrading something else or would it be good to just go with the 650w?

Also I did some research on CUDA but couldn't find a necessarily good conclusion for myself. Am I to understand that CUDA has to do with overclocking? That's what I seem to get from what the NVIDIA site says.
 

jddg5wa

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Jan 24, 2013
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Wow, with the current set up I have Blender cannot render with GPU. I have looked into it before but I have never actually watched a test of how much faster it is or realized it had anything to do with CUDA cores. That alone would raise my speeds tremendously allowing more time to put more time into other parts of a project.

Thanks for the suggestion with the power supply and then upgrading the graphics instead. The information you've given me has been very valuable. I'm going to recollect all prices and see where I am at and report back when I've got it down what I think I am going to get.

Edit: So looking at the pricing of everything so far it looks pretty good. A question though, is it worth it to chip in the extra 50 dollars for the higher 650w PSU If I plan on looking into overclocking or anything of the sort? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151088

I'm only asking since I'm trying not to spend money just because if it really isn't going to be of much use. Power supplies just worry me a bit as I've had one out the of very few I've owned go bad on me and I've read they are a very important piece to make sure is good. But still if it is still going to be more than I would need I don't want to spend the extra money.

I guess I still need to keep in mind the price plus tax (which could add a good chunk to the price) and the very little shipping costs if any.
 
I'm pretty fanatical about power supplies :)

Here's the rule (I made) I try to remember: High-end power supplies are for people that understand them.

The average user should have a GOOD power supply, but doesn't need the best. The reason someone like me needs to have the lowest ripple and the best voltage regulation and so forth is because they won't sleep at night otherwise.

You won't need more than 550W with a single card and overclocking, and the way your parts are configured currently you aren't really able to SLI anyway.

I say you should stick with the XFX. It got good reviews from the people with the fancy test equipment.