Gigabyte X58A-UD3R - Will Post and Boot fine -- Long Beep after Post

I'm having troubles with by PC and I am hoping for some good advice.

Here's my home built rig:
- Gigabyte X58A-UD3R rev 1.0
- i7Core, 6GB DDR3, GeForce GTX 560Ti running 2 monitors
- One 2 drive raid config and some extra drives for non essential stuff.
- 850W power supply, nice battery backup in front of that.
- Extra Nocturna fans (helps to keep it cool and quiet)

For the last month, when I boot it up, there is a normal 1st beep for POST and everything starts to power up as expected: monitors light up, Windows 7 loads, login and off we go....

What is happening is that after the Post, there is a LONG BEEP and that beep duration has been getting longer each day.

Where is used to be 10 seconds or so, the long beep will now go for a few minutes and then finally sputter out and cease.

To me, this sounds like something needs to warm up and then the computer is happy. I am not sure if the long beep is an alarm for something not working or if there is some issue on the board that resolves itself once it has warmed up.

I'm looking for some ideas on what to do next. I have visually inspected the board, re-seated both memory and graphics card (but I figure the PC would not work if that was the problem.

Thanks in advance,

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  1. It doesn't sound all to healthy.
    Going off the top of my head, I would say that the problem is most likely in your motherboard electronics, especially if the beep splutters out at the end. It could point to a capacitor discharging into the speaker, which should never happen under normal circumstances. If you notice any other problems like longer boot times or adverse POST reports, might be worthwhile to try and get to board looking at or even replaced under warranty.

    In the mean time, if the noise if getting distracting, you could always unplug the speaker, but do start making regular deep backups and try and see if there are any anomalies with your PC performance. This is not a solution you would ever hear from any company or tech support, because you always want to hear any problems with your pc, especially as your motherboard does not appear to have a LED error code display.

    Report any further developments so we can try and figure this out together. Happy to help with any further questions.
  2. I agree, the beep doesn't sound to healthy. The box is kept clean and I blow out the small accumulation of dust every few months. This is a box that I shut down each night and then boot up in the morning--wondering if I should just leave it running.

    For today's start-up, post log, boot and loading of windows seemed to proceed as normal and I am not noticing any slow loading or delay when it boots up.

    For the beep sound, the POST beep is a higher pitch then the continuous BEEEEP. Today's BEEP lasted for 2-3 min and did sputter a few times.
    Stop..go for another 20 sec, stop.

    The beep happens from a cold start. I can reset later in the day and no issues.

    My guess today is that this Beep is an alarm for something. This weekend, I am thinking opening up the PC, and booting from my workbench to see if I can spot any lights or stuck fans.

    Question: Because my PC will start up fine as far as I know, is there any diagnostic software I could run to help determine what is happening or might be causing the beep?


  3. kslagboom said:

    Question: Because my PC will start up fine as far as I know, is there any diagnostic software I could run to help determine what is happening or might be causing the beep?

    As far as I'm concerned, as there is neither a Post message alert nor a problem detected by windows, the Bios is unaware of the problem, so no software would be able to diagnose it for you. I think this is a rare enough problem that you won't find any specific articles on the internet for it.

    If you fear for your computer's health, return it under warranty. If that has expired though, try and survive with the beeping as long as you can. Like you said, maybe sleep mode is a good idea, with infrequent restarts. In that case keep the speaker connected for any further potential changes in behavior in the future.
  4. Makes sense. I'll try out sleep mode and see what happens. This is a home built rig and parts are about 2 yrs old now so may no longer be under warranty. I think I will increase backups, maybe run the box open and do another inspection next time I cold start. I can pull the speaker but not keen as it has saved me in the past when my old box overheated on a hot day.

    The Post details run through quite fast and then it loads windows--maybe I am missing a warning somewhere. One other idea I had is that something weird is going on with the Power Supply.

    I was thinking about purchasing a cheap Post diagnostic board--sticking another card in the box is easier then ripping it apart or building up a new one. Wondering if that will give me any detail.

    Thanks for your thoughts on it. Much appreciated.
  5. Most BIOS's have the option to extend post messages, or the wait for F1 for an error. See if you can spot those settings and fiddle around with them. While a diagnostic card could help, I don't think it has something to do with the PSU. The PSU usually just supplies voltage rails of between 12V and 3.3V, and only has 3 special cables (3.3 Sense, power good and power on). As none of those are hardwired through to the speaker, but go through the logic board first I think you are safe to leave the PSU.

    However, I'm think that coming up with dynamic solutions such as those are the best way to solve the problem yourself. Common sense is a power weapon, and it appears you can wield it well. Goodluck!
  6. 1. check bios update to the latest version. always think there should be better support with new bios to fix all known issues probably including yours.
    2. check memories one by one to see if any one of them causing the problem.
    3. cpu getting too hot around?
    4. vga may not be a problem, but check extra power supply connected well, leave only one monitor at a time.
    5. did you change any bios settings except for raid configuration? is the case open warning message enabled?
  7. I have continued to work on a solution to my issue.

    Memory and Graphics card check out fine. Bios is v.F4 -- lasted is F8b *I could update it but releases notes for updates to this version do not indicate any fixes to CPU fan or sensors. Maybe a hidden fix, but the problem was something that started after a few years of normal operation.

    In playing with bios alarm settings, the alarm was shut-off when the CPU fan sensor was disabled. So, I am thinking CPU fan problems.

    I had a spare CPU cooler and decided to install it. The new cooler is a Coolit Vantage with a digital display (long story but I got it as a replacement when old watercooler leaked and grounded itself to pieces). The new cooler works fine but is stuck on 100%--will not throttle down. I can't recall if the old cooler was at 100%. Anyhow, I seemed to have installed a jet engine into my quiet rig.

    On power-up, the Cooler reports a Fan failure--then it goes 100% and stays there. -- this is the part I don't get but I am thinking this is close to the problem and it might be something with the MoBo.

    CPU temperatures are fine, both reported on the Cooler and checked with RealTemp. I load tested the box and got temps as to be expected--the cooler is still cooling down the CPU. No worries on temp.

    Never heard of the CPU fan sensor failing but I think I am getting close. I would be happy at this point except for the jet engine.
  8. Solved the Issue.


    First, the alarm issue (long beep) was something to do with the CPU fan failing. As the CPU fan was still running, it was difficult to determine if the fan was the problem or the MoBo. I was not able to test the fan as the Arctic Freezer 13 heatsink has a custom mounted fan on it that is difficult to replace.

    Second Issue: after replacing the heat sink with a Coolit Vantage and wiring it up to as per the instuctions, the Cooler was not booting correctly and was going into default protection mode ('panic') and running all its bits at full throttle.


    WildGoose on the Coolit Systems old Forum posted the following:

    Thank you for mentioning that you are using a Gigabyte motherboard.
    During the post / boot, Gigabyte motherboards do not provide a full 12 volts on their four pin regulated motherboard power connections The Vantage ALC needs 12 volts to perform it's own boot. Since the Vantage ALC does not receive the 12 volts needed, it will go into default protection mode and ramp the fan to the 23-2400 rpm range.
    By disabling the CPU thermal regulation on other manufactured motherboards, the CPU header provides 12 volts during the post / boot process. The header will then sense that something is connected and not go into the alert / beep warnings, pointing out that the CPU cooling systems has failed.
    The Vantage ALC needs 12 volts all the time. The pump has to run 100% to provide the coolant flow to transfer the heat from the processor as designed.
    I would suggest that you connect the power of the Vantage ALC to a three pin non-regulated motherboard connector like the PWR_FAN.
    In reality, the Vantage ALC really only needs the power and ground wire to operate. The performance will not change by connecting it to a three pin or even a two pin adapter wire to a Molex connector.

    Solution was to plug the Coolit Vantage into a regular 3 pin fan socket. Booted the machine up, right away the cooler functioned correctly and slowed down the fan to quiet mode. Hurry!

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