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Need Help With Gaming PC build budget 1500-2000$

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May 22, 2013 3:09:04 PM

I am brand new to this PC thing and barely know anything and need some help on what to get for a great gaming computer for 1500-2000$. I want to able to run games like BF3, Call of Duty, and other high frame per second games on the best settings with ease. Also it would need to include OS, monitor, keyboard,mouse, and speakers.
a c 270 4 Gaming
May 22, 2013 4:17:08 PM

Here you go:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($225.98 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U9B SE2 37.9 CFM CPU Cooler ($60.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($145.91 @ Newegg)
Memory: Mushkin Blackline 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($63.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: OCZ Vector Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($125.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 670 2GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($379.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 670 2GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($379.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Nanoxia Deep Silence 2 ATX Mid Tower Case ($103.58 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: PC Power & Cooling Silencer Mk III 750W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V Power Supply ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer ($17.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1799.38
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-05-22 19:16 EDT-0400)

That gives you $200 to add a monitor ($150) and a keyboard and mouse. You can always get good ones later on. As far as speakers go - don't pay money for Logitech tin cans. Don't include those in your budget since the speakers included in your monitor are better than those. Save some money there and add a pair of Audioengine A5s or Klipsch Pro Media since those would be way better. Spending $25 on a pair of speakers for a $2K rig would really make the whole thing look cheap.
Related resources
a b 4 Gaming
May 22, 2013 4:32:17 PM

if you can wait for a month or two, you can get the new haswell CPU and maybe the new 700 series GPU
May 22, 2013 4:53:52 PM

Thanks for the help anyone else want to put in their thoughts?
Also why a i5 and not an i7 processor
May 22, 2013 4:59:19 PM

What is your location for local only deals
a c 270 4 Gaming
May 22, 2013 5:02:36 PM

varium said:
Thanks for the help anyone else want to put in their thoughts?
Also why a i5 and not an i7 processor


Because most games don't make use of the extra threads from the i7, it's better to put more money in the GPU.
May 22, 2013 5:02:46 PM

It is Fort Worth Texas
May 22, 2013 7:07:33 PM

Microcenter in Dallas has the I7 3770k for same price as others charge for the I5 3570k so I would get it.
They also price match other places like NewEgg so you can get it in person rather than mail order and that is the best way to buy electronics because you can swap it over the counter instead of shipping it back and waiting and waiting. If you do get the I5 deduct $60.00 from the total since its $169.99
They also carry this monitor in store 2560 x 1440 for a good price http://www.microcenter.com/product/384780/EQ276W_27-Inc...

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/ZeCf
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/ZeCf/by_merchant/
Benchmarks: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/ZeCf/benchmarks/

CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme4 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard (Purchased For $94.99)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: OCZ Vertex 4 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($134.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 500GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($66.00 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 670 2GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($347.48 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 670 2GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($347.48 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Corsair 500R White ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair Professional Gold 750W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($116.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NS95 DVD/CD Writer ($17.98 @ Outlet PC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($89.94 @ Outlet PC)
Monitor: Acer H236HLbid 60Hz 23.0" Monitor ($169.99 @ Amazon)
Keyboard: Cooler Master CM Storm Trigger Wired Gaming Keyboard ($59.25 @ Newegg)
Mouse: Cooler Master SGM-4000-KLLN1-GP Wired Laser Mouse ($39.99 @ Microcenter)
Total: $1975.04
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-05-22 21:59 EDT-0400)
May 22, 2013 8:01:46 PM

I just don't get why people suggest 8GB of RAM in a $2k system. Woot constantly has $400 systems with 12GB. I know more is not always better, but unless you plan on being OCD about freeing up memory before launching a game and staying there... I often have netflix running on a second monitor and am always alt-tabbing out to do stuff (like between games). You won't regret more RAM.
May 22, 2013 8:04:35 PM

Take what giltyler said, ditch the 500GB hard drive for a 1-2TB in the same price range, ditch the vertex 4 and get something similar (or larger) for about the same (or less), and double the memory.
May 22, 2013 8:05:47 PM

fball922 said:
I just don't get why people suggest 8GB of RAM in a $2k system. Woot constantly has $400 systems with 12GB. I know more is not always better, but unless you plan on being OCD about freeing up memory before launching a game and staying there... I often have netflix running on a second monitor and am always alt-tabbing out to do stuff (like between games). You won't regret more RAM.

****ing amen... every-time i get trolled about how i have too much ram or how its overkill for whatever im doing... it really dont matter what im doing people do this for hobby's...

Censor your swears. - G
May 22, 2013 8:10:34 PM

boulbox said:
domzftw said:
Just built my budget PC... check my thread out
http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1683047/extreme-...


That build is just ridiculously useless for it's money.

680s when 670s perform on-par

850W when Nvidia GPUs don't use a whole lot of power

i7 for gaming


how do 670s preform on par with 680s? my benchmarks tell a whole diff story
May 22, 2013 8:19:11 PM

Rule of thumb is they are within 10% and as the Fomer owner of a 680 4 gig and current owner of a 670 4 gig
That is dead on. The $100.00 savings is the key.
I also bought in to the 16 gig deal and now know that was wasted cash since I never use over 5.5 gig
May 22, 2013 8:21:58 PM

giltyler said:
Rule of thumb is they are within 10% and as the Fomer owner of a 680 4 gig and current owner of a 670 4 gig
That is dead on. The $100.00 savings is the key.
I also bought in to the 16 gig deal and now know that was wasted cash since I never use over 5.5 gig


the key is not to try to penny pinch cause having the best is the best
a b 4 Gaming
May 22, 2013 8:28:09 PM

domzftw said:
giltyler said:
Rule of thumb is they are within 10% and as the Fomer owner of a 680 4 gig and current owner of a 670 4 gig
That is dead on. The $100.00 savings is the key.
I also bought in to the 16 gig deal and now know that was wasted cash since I never use over 5.5 gig


the key is not to try to penny pinch cause having the best is the best


Having the best is not always the best. You just payed $100 extra(a piece so in total $200) for a 5% performance boost over 670s.
May 22, 2013 8:32:40 PM

boulbox said:
domzftw said:
giltyler said:
Rule of thumb is they are within 10% and as the Fomer owner of a 680 4 gig and current owner of a 670 4 gig
That is dead on. The $100.00 savings is the key.
I also bought in to the 16 gig deal and now know that was wasted cash since I never use over 5.5 gig


the key is not to try to penny pinch cause having the best is the best


Having the best is not always the best. You just payed $100 extra(a piece so in total $200) for a 5% performance boost over 670s.


last i checked 5% is better then 0%?
May 22, 2013 8:34:07 PM

giltyler said:
I also bought in to the 16 gig deal and now know that was wasted cash since I never use over 5.5 gig


Of course it depends on what you are doing. Personally, I like having 2 instances of Visual Studio, 10+ Chrome tabs, whatever else open, and then launching a game and Netflix without thinking about it, nor remembering what "swap disk" is (and while performance erosion from swap disk is lessened with an SSD, I like to preserve those precious write cycles wherever possible :) )
a b 4 Gaming
May 22, 2013 8:37:32 PM

domzftw said:
boulbox said:
domzftw said:
giltyler said:
Rule of thumb is they are within 10% and as the Fomer owner of a 680 4 gig and current owner of a 670 4 gig
That is dead on. The $100.00 savings is the key.
I also bought in to the 16 gig deal and now know that was wasted cash since I never use over 5.5 gig


the key is not to try to penny pinch cause having the best is the best


Having the best is not always the best. You just payed $100 extra(a piece so in total $200) for a 5% performance boost over 670s.


last i checked 5% is better then 0%?


Last i check, you got ripped off for the performance of your build.

It doesn't even seem you know a whole lot about computers seeing that you put 2 SLI bridges on your cards and even took pictures of it. You have 2 SSDs which pretty much does nothing extra besides space and could have just use 1 high quality SSD. You used an H50 and even replace the stock fans. Ah, don't let me get started on your 32 GB of ram where you won't even be using more than 8GB worth.

Your build is just full of fails and just went for good looks and bragging rights.
May 22, 2013 8:42:02 PM

boulbox said:
domzftw said:
boulbox said:
domzftw said:
giltyler said:
Rule of thumb is they are within 10% and as the Fomer owner of a 680 4 gig and current owner of a 670 4 gig
That is dead on. The $100.00 savings is the key.
I also bought in to the 16 gig deal and now know that was wasted cash since I never use over 5.5 gig


the key is not to try to penny pinch cause having the best is the best


Having the best is not always the best. You just payed $100 extra(a piece so in total $200) for a 5% performance boost over 670s.


last i checked 5% is better then 0%?


Last i check, you got ripped off for the performance of your build.

It doesn't even seem you know a whole lot about computers seeing that you put 2 SLI bridges on your cards and even took pictures of it. You have 2 SSDs which pretty much does nothing extra besides space and could have just use 1 high quality SSD. You used an H50 and even replace the stock fans. Ah, don't let me get started on your 32 GB of ram where you won't even be using more than 8GB worth.

Your build is just full of fails and just went for good looks and bragging rights.


ssds are in raid 0 u moron... and i don't have 32 gb ram smart ass.. and i dont need openloop watercooling... not overclocking to that extreme... your just a jelly nerd rager thats looking for a argument cause your depressed in life and hate your build but cant afford to get another...
thanks come again! <3
May 22, 2013 8:45:49 PM

domzftw said:
boulbox said:
domzftw said:
boulbox said:
domzftw said:
giltyler said:
Rule of thumb is they are within 10% and as the Fomer owner of a 680 4 gig and current owner of a 670 4 gig
That is dead on. The $100.00 savings is the key.
I also bought in to the 16 gig deal and now know that was wasted cash since I never use over 5.5 gig


the key is not to try to penny pinch cause having the best is the best


Having the best is not always the best. You just payed $100 extra(a piece so in total $200) for a 5% performance boost over 670s.


last i checked 5% is better then 0%?


Last i check, you got ripped off for the performance of your build.

It doesn't even seem you know a whole lot about computers seeing that you put 2 SLI bridges on your cards and even took pictures of it. You have 2 SSDs which pretty much does nothing extra besides space and could have just use 1 high quality SSD. You used an H50 and even replace the stock fans. Ah, don't let me get started on your 32 GB of ram where you won't even be using more than 8GB worth.

Your build is just full of fails and just went for good looks and bragging rights.


ssds are in raid 0 u moron... and i don't have 32 gb ram smart ass.. and i dont need openloop watercooling... not overclocking to that extreme... your just a jelly nerd rager thats looking for a argument cause your depressed in life and hate your build but cant afford to get another...
thanks come again! <3


Though boulbox disagreed with me on the RAM (though he edited it out... ninja!!), SSDs in a RAID are kind of a bad idea, and I say that only for the benefit of anyone reading. Many people will lose TRIM support, and benchmarks show minimal gain, and many real world test show drops in performance over a single SSD.
a b 4 Gaming
May 22, 2013 8:46:26 PM

SSD in raid 0 has little performance to naked eye, it is just to please yourself saying that "my SSD goes this fast now". Never said you needed an open loop WC. You have your thread saying that you have 2x8GB of ram when the photos say that you have 4 sticks.

My build is perfectly fine, i live on a "learn how to budget so i don't get ripped off like domzftw" motto.

Suite yourself if spending more than everyone to get something that isn't better than most people makes you feel good and rich.
May 22, 2013 8:49:38 PM

boulbox said:
SSD in raid 0 has little performance to naked eye, it is just to please yourself saying that "my SSD goes this fast now". Never said you needed an open loop WC. You have your thread saying that you have 2x8GB of ram when the photos say that you have 4 sticks.

My build is perfectly fine, i live on a "learn how to budget so i don't get ripped off like domzftw" motto.

Suite yourself if spending more than everyone to get something that isn't better than most people makes you feel good and rich.


well to the computer it indexes 8.4 vs the 7.9..... to a customers standview thats a dealbreaker... eventho its not to the naked eye it has something to show for...
May 22, 2013 8:51:34 PM

fball922 said:
domzftw said:
boulbox said:
domzftw said:
boulbox said:
domzftw said:
giltyler said:
Rule of thumb is they are within 10% and as the Fomer owner of a 680 4 gig and current owner of a 670 4 gig
That is dead on. The $100.00 savings is the key.
I also bought in to the 16 gig deal and now know that was wasted cash since I never use over 5.5 gig


the key is not to try to penny pinch cause having the best is the best


Having the best is not always the best. You just payed $100 extra(a piece so in total $200) for a 5% performance boost over 670s.


last i checked 5% is better then 0%?


Last i check, you got ripped off for the performance of your build.

It doesn't even seem you know a whole lot about computers seeing that you put 2 SLI bridges on your cards and even took pictures of it. You have 2 SSDs which pretty much does nothing extra besides space and could have just use 1 high quality SSD. You used an H50 and even replace the stock fans. Ah, don't let me get started on your 32 GB of ram where you won't even be using more than 8GB worth.

Your build is just full of fails and just went for good looks and bragging rights.


ssds are in raid 0 u moron... and i don't have 32 gb ram smart ass.. and i dont need openloop watercooling... not overclocking to that extreme... your just a jelly nerd rager thats looking for a argument cause your depressed in life and hate your build but cant afford to get another...
thanks come again! <3


Though boulbox disagreed with me on the RAM (though he edited it out... ninja!!), SSDs in a RAID are kind of a bad idea, and I say that only for the benefit of anyone reading. Many people will lose TRIM support, and benchmarks show minimal gain, and many real world test show drops in performance over a single SSD.

i have my ssds set to copy on to my other raid . so if my ssds fail i have my other drives backup
a b 4 Gaming
May 22, 2013 8:54:26 PM

@fball922, it actually shows some good difference if you have read Tom's article on Raid 0 SSD. Like twice the performance on some areas. What it doesn't show you is that corruption of data is twice as likely and the performance increase is only there for bragging rights since it shows no real increase to the naked eye.
May 22, 2013 8:55:45 PM

domzftw said:

i have my ssds set to copy on to my other raid . so if my ssds fail i have my other drives backup


Always a good thing, but flat out SSD failure is not the issue I am referring to. I use mechanical drives in a RAID-0, so I am living life on the edge with no back up in place :)  (though it is a programs drive, so no critical data is on there). TRIM is the garbage clean up. I hear Intel RAID solutions support it (somehow), but most (if not all) others do not. So, SSD performance will degrade drastically over time. Personally, I would break up that RAID to an OS drive and an applications drive to ensure that doesn't happen.
May 22, 2013 8:56:37 PM

boulbox said:
@fball922, it actually shows some good difference if you have read Tom's article on Raid 0 SSD. Like twice the performance on some areas. What it doesn't show you is that corruption of data is twice as likely and the performance increase is only there for bragging rights since it shows no real increase to the naked eye.


i will agree with you on this..
a b 4 Gaming
May 22, 2013 8:57:23 PM

@domzftw,i don't think you know the definition of raid 0. I don't think you know a whole lot about computers if you are saying this and that and then suddenly changing it to something different because someone smarter than you points your mistake.

My apology, i read your post wrong.
May 22, 2013 8:57:51 PM

fball922 said:
domzftw said:

i have my ssds set to copy on to my other raid . so if my ssds fail i have my other drives backup


Always a good thing, but flat out SSD failure is not the issue I am referring to. I use mechanical drives in a RAID-0, so I am living life on the edge with no back up in place :)  (though it is a programs drive, so no critical data is on there). TRIM is the garbage clean up. I hear Intel RAID solutions support it (somehow), but most (if not all) others do not. So, SSD performance will degrade drastically over time. Personally, I would break up that RAID to an OS drive and an applications drive to ensure that doesn't happen.

i see what you are saying but ive been using raid 0 for years now never had a problem to be honest but i to appreciate the input
May 22, 2013 8:58:37 PM

boulbox said:
@fball922, it actually shows some good difference if you have read Tom's article on Raid 0 SSD. Like twice the performance on some areas. What it doesn't show you is that corruption of data is twice as likely and the performance increase is only there for bragging rights since it shows no real increase to the naked eye.


I think that is what I was thinking of when I said that. Yes, shows improvement in benchmarks, but from what I remember (as you say), real world benchmarks show minimal performance increase, and in some cases decreases in performance. Price to performance seemed to favor a single SSD for real world stuff.
a c 270 4 Gaming
May 23, 2013 12:45:41 PM

fball922 said:
Take what giltyler said, ditch the 500GB hard drive for a 1-2TB in the same price range, ditch the vertex 4 and get something similar (or larger) for about the same (or less), and double the memory.


I have a Vertex 4, it's a fine drive.

Watch the personal attacks, all of you, or posts will be deleted and bans will be issued.
May 24, 2013 2:22:05 AM

http://pcpartpicker.com/user/apower101/saved/1DMr
CPU i5 3570k
GPU Asus Titan
Mobo Asus z77 pro4
Ram Corsair vengeance 8 gb
Storage Hitachi deskstar 1.5 tb
Case Rosewill armour evo
PSUANtec 650 watt
etc. etc.
Total $2092
The titan is overpriced but is also the best single gpu. Great for gaming and feels smoother than dual gpu set ups. Also less likely to not be supported. NVidia will support this card for a long time. The 690 is good but with a lower memory interface and 3 times less vram it is NOT futureproof (As stupid as the term is). Also, if you decide to SLI in the future, the mobo supports this. The Titan prices will likely drop when AMD releases the 9000 series. Also, you can add an ssd drive in the future for the os.


However, personally I would wait for Haswell. They're reported to be an overclockers dream.
I have tried both gtx 680/670 sli and 690 but I prefer the Titan.
a b 4 Gaming
May 24, 2013 12:32:03 PM

apower101 said:
http://pcpartpicker.com/user/apower101/saved/1DMr
CPU i5 3570k
GPU Asus Titan
Mobo Asus z77 pro4
Ram Corsair vengeance 8 gb
Storage Hitachi deskstar 1.5 tb
Case Rosewill armour evo
PSUANtec 650 watt
etc. etc.
Total $2092
The titan is overpriced but is also the best single gpu. Great for gaming and feels smoother than dual gpu set ups. Also less likely to not be supported. NVidia will support this card for a long time. The 690 is good but with a lower memory interface and 3 times less vram it is NOT futureproof (As stupid as the term is). Also, if you decide to SLI in the future, the mobo supports this. The Titan prices will likely drop when AMD releases the 9000 series. Also, you can add an ssd drive in the future for the os.


However, personally I would wait for Haswell. They're reported to be an overclockers dream.
I have tried both gtx 680/670 sli and 690 but I prefer the Titan.


Just get the 780, it is out and more is coming. It performs near the Titan for $400 less.

The motherboard is not ideal for SLI/CFX it has 1x PCI-e 3.0 16x slot and the other is a PCI-e 2.0 4x slot.
a b 4 Gaming
May 24, 2013 1:08:08 PM

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: NZXT HAVIK 140 90.3 CFM CPU Cooler ($59.98 @ Outlet PC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD4H ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($159.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Patriot Intel Extreme Master, Limited Ed 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($57.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Sandisk Ultra Plus 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($89.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($62.98 @ Outlet PC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB Video Card ($659.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: PC Power & Cooling Silencer Mk III 750W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V Power Supply ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NS95 DVD/CD Writer ($14.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8 (OEM) (64-bit) ($89.98 @ Outlet PC)
Monitor: Asus VS239H-P 23.0" Monitor ($161.99 @ Newegg)
Keyboard: Corsair Vengeance K70 Wired Gaming Keyboard ($129.99 @ Amazon)
Mouse: Corsair Vengeance M65 Wired Laser Mouse ($72.98 @ Newegg)
Speakers: Creative Labs A220 9W 2.1ch Speakers ($27.85 @ Amazon)
Total: $1975.67
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-05-24 16:10 EDT-0400)

If you could spend a little bit more like $2100, i recommend getting a good headset instead of speakers.
January 1, 2014 4:34:25 PM

What are you planning to do witht he computer? Would you be upgrading in the future? Are you planning to do hardcore video edditing? Are you going to over clock? Will you like sli?
!