Exhausted after trying to figure out a water cooling system myself. I need help.

[TomFoolious]

Firstly I'm building a new PC and going all out and going to try new things. Here is my build: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1vUAQ

So I know I should water cool the CPU and the GPU at least. I've heard talks that if you plan on overclocking that the North Bridge is recommended, but not necessary, opinions from you guys on that?

Secondly, I'm new to water cooling and I'm trying to learn as much as I can, but I keep on going through a loop asking what's this what's that only to lead me back to step 1 of what I learned. In short I've spend this week learning water cooling and now I'm not getting anywhere.

I need help constructing a water cooling system. I have no preference of brand and since the computer build costs about 2k I'd like to keep the water cooling under a total PC build cost of $3700.

One product I have seen and liked was Koolance's pump/reservoir with the display showing the RPM and Flow Rate, but I'm still trying to figure out if that is necessary. I was going to go with XSPC CPU block and GPU Block (I enjoyed the built-in LED's), but I wasn't too big on their reservoir/pump combo's (I'd like to use a combo that goes into the 5.25" bay to conserve space and be an easier assembly). Can you mix and match brands? Are there any downsides to this?

Any info that can help me to building this system or anybody that has the time to build me a water cooling system would be much greatly appreciated!

Thanks community!
-TomFoolious

 

[manofchalk]

First off, I recommend you read the water-cooling sticky if you havent already. It wont tell you the parts to get, but build your understanding around the subject.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/277130-29-read-first-watercooling-sticky

North Bridge water-cooling, not really unless your running Quad SLI/Crossfire and overclocking those. The VRM's are a better candidate for water-cooling on a motherboard, though even then its only worth it if your trying to squeeze as much from your CPU as possible.

RPM and Flow rates, not necessary but are cool to have anyway. If your technically minded and like to experiment, then having those readings will probably appeal.
I would avoid 5.25" bay mounted pumps, too hard to decouple them and you will get a lot of vibration induced noise. I would go for a standalone pump and the res can go wherever.

You can mix and match brands all you like. Downsides, none, unless your looking for aesthetics then you will probably want to stick with the one brand anyway.

As for parts, you will find the water-coolers here wont just give you a parts list like we would a system build. Pull together a loop you think will work, post it here and we will give feedback and recommendations. Our job is to make this a smooth process and make sure you dont stuff it up, not to do it for you.

 

[TomFoolious]

Crap well I missed that sticky. Like I said I've been doing reading on various forums and websites all week, so I will read that tomorrow when hopefully my brain is less mushed. There's just so much to this and I'm seeing sensors and controls and this and that it just seems so intimidating to learn right off the bat at this moment. I don't really have anybody that I can talk to in person either which is a downer. I'm one of those people that hears and learns better than reading haha. Delete this post if it's in the way, I'll get through that sticky'd post tomorrow and get some components together and re-post what I've come up with this coming week. Thanks for the heads up and sorry for missing that Sticky.

 

[manofchalk]

Everyone gets overwhelmed with information when they first set out, don't feel bad about that. When I set out to build my first machine, I think I was stuck in that state for about 2 weeks until I found the forums.

If you need any explanation of water-cooling concepts or advice, dont hesitate to ask, its what were here for.

 

[TomFoolious]

Ok so I've read through that document and I kind of understood most of it. Talked to my brother a little bit too who has a water cooled pc. I've updated my PC build at pcpartpicker.com here is the link: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1wgMN

Here is the video card/water block combo I'll be getting: http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=03G-P4-3789-KR

Here is the list of the components I've chosen for my water cooling build:
- ClearFlex 60 Tubing 3/8" ID 5/8" OD
- Koolance Liquid Coolant Bottle, 700mL Fluorescent Blue
- Cougar CFD 120mm LED Case Fan - Red (x2)
- Koolance CTR-CD1224 12V/24V Pump & Fan Controller With Display
- Koolance PMP-450 High-flow Pump
- Koolance CPU-380I Water Block (Intel Processor)
- Koolance TNK-501 Single 5.25" Bay Reservoir Rev1.1
- Koolance Radiator, 2x120mm Fans, 54mm Thick, 30-FPI Copper
- Koolance Nozzle Single, Black G1/4 Barb [10mm, 3/8"]

Hopefully what I've picked out seems correct. I'm hoping I can switch out the compression fittings that come with the EVGA Hydro Block with the barb fittings, if not it's not big deal really. More just for aesthetics. I'm open to suggestions since this is my first water cooling build.

 

[manofchalk]

Dont bother with bottled coolant, Distilled water will do just fine. If you want colour in your loop, do it through colored tubing and lighting effects. Dyes will stain tubing and can eventually gunk up your loop as it fades and builds up in blocks and such.
The pump controller isnt entirely necessary, but if you want it why not.
You definitely need more rad-space than that for a CPU and GPU. I would think a particularly thick 360mm (with good fans) or 360+240mm of rad space.

The Level 10 GT is really not a good case to be water-cooling in, a $200 case that can only hold a 240mm rad isnt that good. Your will want to look into something like a HAF-X, Corsair 800D or NZXT Switch 810.

You should be able to change out the compression fittings easily, G1/4" threads are pretty much standard across water-cooling components and means you can use whatever G1/4" fittings you want.

 

[manofchalk]

External mounted rads are nothing new, after all I do have one myself (old pic).
http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o537/Manofchalk/IMG_20130216_120524_zps4608b88f.jpg
Anyway, I presumed that your choice of the GT was largely aesthetic in nature, which I thought hanging a rad off the back of would ruin so I didn't suggest it. If you want to go that way to fit ample rad space, that is an option.

A dedicated pump controller I don't think is necessary, especially as you can get D5 pumps with built in speed adjustments. Fan controllers are definitely useful though, water-cooling ends up involving more fans than air cooling does and to run them off the PSU would defeat half the point of water-cooling. If you get a fan controller powerful enough (say 50W per channel) you would be fine to run the pump off it as well.

 

[TomFoolious]

Ok, so stay tuned. I'm coming up with what I think to be a great build here. It'll involve the NZXT ZERO 2 case with a 480 radiator that'll attach to the side. This should be exactly what I need. Now with having that big of a radiator I'm going to need an ample pump to get through that, so will a D5 pump be good enough? That's what I'm trying to figure out right now.

Rad: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11759/ex-rad-122/Phobya_XTREME_Quad_480_Radiator.html?tl=g30c95s570

Case: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=25115

Pump/Res combo (i've seen good reviews on this one about noise and such as long as you bleed the system correctly): http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=34679:b6884a47789dbce5d99dbf96e491bc28

As for the decoupling, I've seen someone run a tube out of the fill spot with a tube coming out for easier filling. I'll probably use that same method for my build.

Looks like the door is a shell, so I should be able to fit a fan controller in there with knobs. Now to run the pump off of it, do I just hook it up like I would a fan? So in turn if I'm going with 4 fans on the rad and the pump I'd need like 5 knobs?

 

[manofchalk]

Case link just goes to the main page.

The XSPC kits are fairly good. Only objection isnt on quality but just an inherent part of the pump/res. 5.25" mounted pumps I find are very difficult to decouple from the case and you end up with a lot of vibration induced noise. I would go with an internal pump.

 

[manofchalk]

When you edit a post, notifications aren't sent out.

Radiators actually give very little flow restriction, and typically the thicker they are the less restrictive. If your having flow issues, its not because of the rad. A D5 should handle a CPU and GPU block just fine.

Side mounting a rad might not be the best of idea's.
You dont know how much clearance you have, and it will make removing the side panel a massive pain.

Also the case just isnt that good IMO, looks quite cheaply made to me.
What kind of aesthetic are you going for with the case?

Any fan controller will be fine as long as it doesn't have massive knobs. They build those case doors with an expectation someone is going to leave their optical drive open when they try to close it.
With a 50W per channel fan controller, you could run all the fans in the case off the one knob (channel) if you had enough fan splitters. Don't get a touch screen controller, you pay much more for not much benefit and since they have to run a screen they typically are limited down to the 20W per channel range.

 

[rubix_1011]

Externally mounted rads are simple to do and can be done quickly and easily...which is the main reasons they are done. They also provide the benefit of only using ambient air for cooling and exhaust to ambient...you aren't intermingling with internal case temps.

 

[TomFoolious]

Ok, so after looking at the HAF-X and Frozen CPU's version of it (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14189/cst-1229/Cooler_Master_HAF-X_Full_Tower_Custom_Liquid_Cooled_Case_-_Liquid_Cooled_Push_Pull_Edition_XSPC_Raystorm_RS360_Installed.html?tl=g1c2), I decided to make my own. The case is actually pretty awesome with the powder coated Alien Green. Here is what I came up with, I don't think I missed anything...

cst-1247 Cooler Master HAF-X XL-ATX Compatible High Air Flow Full Tower Case (RC-942-KKN1) - Chassis Powder Coating

Select Internal Powder Coat Color: Alien Green
Sleeve All Internal Case Cables!: Yes (Select Sleeve Color Next) ($49.95)
Select Your Cable Sleeve Color: Black
Select Your Heatshrink Color: Green
Select Fan Control Unit: None
Select Fan Contoller Installation: None
Install Front & Rear Anodized Case Handles: Black ($41.98)

ex-wat-252 XSPC Raystorm Customizable RS360 Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit w/ D5 Variant Pump Included and Free Dead-Water!

Pump Style: XSPC D5 Variable Speed
Tubing Size / Color: (6.5 Feet) XSPC FLX 3/8 x 5/8 - Black ($13.50)
Fittings Size / Color: (6) x 3/8 x 5/8 Compression - Black Chrome ($30.00)
Select Fluid for Kit: XSPC EC6 Coolant - 1L Clear ($15.99)


fgc-02 120mm Black Fan Grill $3.00 $9.00

ex-rad-208 XSPC RS/RX 120mm Series Radiator Stand - Powder Coated Black $14.99 $29.98

fan-1123 BitFenix Spectre LED 120mm PWM Fan - Green (BFF-BLF-P12025G-RP)

fan-962
Cooler Master 200mm x 30mm Fan (Cosmos S / HAF Series / ATCS 840 / Storm Sniper) (A20030-07CB-MN-F1)

Sleeve The Cable(s): Yes (Select Sleeve Color Next) ($3.99)
Select Your Cable Sleeve Color: Black
Select Your Heatshrink Color: Green

Add Fan Screws: Add 4 Fan Screws - Black(12mm) ($1.40)
Sleeve The Cable(s): Yes (Select Sleeve Color Next) ($3.99)
Select Your Cable Sleeve Color: Black
Select Your Heatshrink Color: Green

After looking at this I'm missing the fan controller, could you recommend one because I can't find anything that goes up to 50W per channel? Plus the fans don't say how much wattage they use either, so if I take the 12V and the .16A from their website I get approximately 2W/fan. Is 50W channel necessary, or is the 50W more of a requirement for the pump? I added the 200mmx30mm fan for the optional top to get a push/pull on the radiator, doesn't hurt right? But now that I'm looking at the pump in the pump/res combo, looks like the pump has a speed selector on it, so I'm worried about just the fans then...sorry for the random spouting of my clueless mind haha.

 

[TomFoolious]

I'm over on overclock.net and they are not recommending I get the HAF-X as it is old and not modular enough like newer cases. So going to redesign for the 5th time. They are recommending the Fractal Arc XL.

 

[toolmaker_03]

Tom if your willing to spend that kind of cash for a case, you need to be looking at Caselabs cases, there is nothing out there better for a water cooling system setup then there cases.

http://caselabs-store.com/

 

[TomFoolious]

Overclock just recommended them too. I have never heard of 'em before, so I'll check 'em out and see what they got. Thank you for the link!

 

[TomFoolious]

Those cases are bare bones and it seems like you have to know what you're doing to even consider getting one. I just want to build a PC and put it together and have it work, so the caselabs are bit TOO extreme for me. I'm leaning towards going against everyone's opinions and going with what I like. In the future, yeah maybe I"ll get another 780 hydro block and when that time comes I'll just mount a radiator on the outside of the case. I'm going to have to make a sacrifice here and there, unless I build myself my own case. Thanks for the suggestions and advice.

 

[toolmaker_03]

No it is not that hard there are not that many cases, I would start with asking myself how large would i like my system to become then i would chose a case that fits that idea.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/13/picks001.jpg/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://imageshack.us/a/img13/9044/picks001.th.jpg" alt="" class="imgLz frmImg" />
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/35/modular004.jpg/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://imageshack.us/a/img35/8895/modular004.th.jpg" alt="" class="imgLz frmImg" />
here is what i mean by that, this is my current system, and i want to make it a little larger than it is now, so in order for me to get all of this hardware into one case i would need a rather large caes, so for me the decision is easy, i would get the caselabs MAGNUM TH10 Case.
http://www.caselabs-store.com/magnum-th10-case/
the same would apply in your case, how large will your system become and get the case that will fit the needs of your build, I am not trying to make this harder on you. In fact the oppasite is true, i only suggested these cases, because it will make this build as painless as posisable for you.

 

[TomFoolious]

No it is not that hard there are not that many cases, I would start with asking myself how large would i like my system to become then i would chose a case that fits that idea.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/13/picks001.jpg/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://imageshack.us/a/img13/9044/picks001.th.jpg" alt="" class="imgLz frmImg" />
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/35/modular004.jpg/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://imageshack.us/a/img35/8895/modular004.th.jpg" alt="" class="imgLz frmImg" />
here is what i mean by that, this is my current system, and i want to make it a little larger than it is now, so in order for me to get all of this hardware into one case i would need a rather large caes, so for me the decision is easy, i would get the caselabs MAGNUM TH10 Case.
http://www.caselabs-store.com/magnum-th10-case/
the same would apply in your case, how large will your system become and get the case that will fit the needs of your build, I am not trying to make this harder on you. In fact the oppasite is true, i only suggested these cases, because it will make this build as painless as posisable for you.

Huh ok. I looked at them and didn't see any drive bays, or anything except a back plate. That's quite interesting now that I'm looking at it.

 

[toolmaker_03]

This is what i would buy for that hardware, this way i would have enough rad space to add another 780 to the loop later down the road.

 

[toolmaker_03]

here is how i would set the rads up

 

[manofchalk]

The HAF-X is a fair bit old and and could do with a re-design. Thats the problem with flagship cases, they are released forst so its not uncommon for lower-tier cases in the same line to have features it doesnt.
Not saying it will be overly restrictive, but its a factor.

Caselabs/MountainMods cases are up there for the best water-cooling chassis', if a quite expensive option. Very good if your the kind of person who has their Quad SLI rig under water, maybe not for lower end users.
A popular choice from Caselabs is the M8, seems to be a good (relative) value option.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-1780380/furious-1500-run-games-properly.html#11444220

Though if money is no object and your also in need of a desk.
http://www.redharbinger.com/product/pre-sale-us-release-limited-edition-cross-desk/
Gotta jump on this quick as its a limited time pre-order currently and once that ends it goes up to $2000, lose out on free extras and you will have to wait several months before the opportunity to buy again comes up.
Some more info if interested.
http://www.redharbinger.com/press/

 

[TomFoolious]

Yeah I just don't have a lot of time in my life at the moment to do the Caselabs stuff. Plus I like some color in my PC except white, black or silver. I did see that desk/computer case...and I almost thought about it haha, but I already have a desk and I doubt my girlfriend would want my current desk (she wants a nice fancy office desk). Maybe in the far future when I need to upgrade this current computer I'll look into getting that desk/case, it is awesome. I plan on adding another water cooled 780 in the future, but probably after I get all the computer parts paid off completely.

The final build if you guys concur this is a good build. I am planning on putting the push fans and pull fans on two seperate 3 way PCB blocks that will then go to 2 of the channels of the fan controller. Since they are different fans I am assuming I'd want to have them running at different speeds for max efficiency. Now from what I've read, the top radiator fans should PULL cold air in through the top of the case, then the bottom ones push the warmer air into the case. I'm hoping the rear 140mm fan will be able to pull that warmer air out as well. This PC is kept in my finished basement, it's cold enough down here that I'm wearing a fleece right now and sometimes have a blanket on me, and outside it's at least 80 degrees F. So with the location of the PC, if I get the fans on the bottom to pull off the floor (where the air is coldest theoretically) into the case, it should mix with the warmer air and cool it down via bringing down interior temp for the motherboard components. Am I thinking this through correctly? I'm going to get all of this for now and then adjust as I need to after I build it and start figuring it all out.

Part # Product Description Qty Price Total

fan-1026 NZXT FZ 120mm x 25mm LED Airflow Fan Series - Green LED

Sleeve The Cable(s): Yes (Select Sleeve Color Next) ($3.99)
Select Your Cable Sleeve Color: Kobra High Density Black
Select Your Heatshrink Color: Green

$18.98 $56.94

ele-987 3-Pin Power Distribution PCB 3xWay Block (MMT-PCB-3WAY)

Select an Optional Power Cable: 3-Pin Female to 3-Pin Female 12" ($3.29)

$7.79 $15.58

bus-334 G-VANS 30W - 4 Channel Aluminum Rheobus w/ Multi Color Backlit LED - Ultra Voltage Edition - Black (GV-CT-5V)

Sleeve the Cable(s): Yes Please ($29.99)
Select Your Cable Sleeve Color: Kobra High Density Black
Select Your Heatshrink Color: Green

$109.98 $109.98

fan-913 XSPC 120mm x 25mm Radiator / Chassis Fan - 1650 RPM $8.99 $8.99

ex-tub-1775 XSPC FLX Premium Grade PVC Tubing - 7/16" ID (5/8"OD) - 2 Meter (6.5 Feet) Retail Pack - White $15.49 $15.49

ex-wat-230 XSPC Raystorm RX360 Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit w/ D5 Variant Pump Included and Free Dead-Water!

Select Optional Bracket / Faceplate: Black Edition Bracket - Intel ($14.99)
Select Fluid for Kit: XSPC EC6 Coolant - 1L Clear ($15.99)
Select Tubing Color: XSPC FLX Retail 7/16 x 5/8 - White ($15.49)
Select Optional Radiator Accessories: XSPC 120mm Rad Stand ($14.99)

$361.45 $361.45

cst-1316 NZXT Switch 810 Full Tower ATX Chassis - Chassis Powder Coating

Case Style: NZXT Switch 810 - White / White
Select Internal Powder Coat Color: Alien Green
Sleeve All Internal Case Cables!: Yes (Select Sleeve Color Next) ($49.95)
Select Your Cable Sleeve Color: Kobra High Density Black
Select Your Heatshrink Color: Green

 

[manofchalk]

When it comes to case fans, front side and bottom mounts intake air, top and back exhaust. That will set up your basic front-to-back airflow through the case and will be sufficient for your needs. Another possibility is that you have all fans intaking air except the top exhaust, which forces all the air through your radiator as well as generally being in line with hot air rising.

If your basement is cold enough that you need a blanket, then I suspect you will be running some very good temperatures on this rig .

Dont bother with XSPC coolant (or coolant in general), the Distilled water that's available at your local grocery or chemist will do just fine with a Kill-coil or Biocide in the loop. No need to pay for branded coolants as they perform no better than water and if they contain dyes can become a massive pain.

I see your spending a fair bit on cable sleeving, ever thought of doing it yourself?

 

[TomFoolious]

I'm getting the coolant and cables purely because of convenience. I just want to get parts and put them together. Speaking of I got my motherboard today, looks nice.

 

[toolmaker_03]

Pic's, please show pics of the hardware before and after install. That way we can all get in on the build with you, we could even help out along the way.