Day Trading Computer

[mespinosatrade]

Hello all,

I need a little help building a day trading computer (direct access trading).

First, I would like to build the computer giving preference to network speed, specifically latency/ping. I know the Internet Service Provider fiber optics and the servers I'm interacting with will determine the ping, right? But the network adapter on the motherboard should have some sort of influence, right? Or is it so small that it doesn't even matter? Some input on that would be cool as I am not sure if what I'm saying is correct!

Secondly, I need to give preference to the platform/programs which run prints, levels ii, charts, news - nothing like running a video game I'm assuming. I would be running this on 2 monitors with maybe a 3rd added later (most probably 24 inches). Therefore, I'm assuming the in order of importance, with the most important being first: Motherboard, CPU Processor, Memory (RAM), Video Card, Hard Drive. I know there's a few things missing that are required like the case, power supply, etc.

I set my budget between $500 and $1000 as I am not sure on a few things like - Could I improve my latency/ping by a lot by buying a better network card or something? Do I really need a top notch processor when one of my brokers recommends a I3 Intel chip or higher?

I've never build a computer before but I believe I can do it after viewing some videos. I would really appreciate some recommendations and/or advice, input, anything! Thank you all in advanced! Any questions please ask!

P.S. I plan in the future to learn to implement some automated strategy into my trading (algorithm trading). I know big firms keep there information well guarded but my understanding is I will need a wayyyyyy bigger budget for that?

 

[HiTechObsessed]

This is the max performance you can get at the budget. Network speeds when wired don't change any kind of noticeably at all. The SSD and 4770 will get you as fast as processing as possible lol You could definitely back this off some to save some money, just wanted to show what the best for your money you can get.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i7-4770 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($302.98 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B85-HD3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($86.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: A-Data XPG V2 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($68.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($65.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 750 1GB Video Card ($119.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Antec One ATX Mid Tower Case ($45.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 520W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($73.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSB0 DVD/CD Writer ($14.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 - 64-bit (OEM) (64-bit) ($99.97 @ OutletPC)
Total: $969.83
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-02-27 12:27 EST-0500)

 

[mespinosatrade]

Thank you for your prompt response.

So doesn't matter what network adapter it has, once wired the ping/latency isn't affected?

And yes, might have to downgrade a little as I think that's more than enough on the processing side lol, all I care about is network speed.

I really appreciate the help, thank you!

 

[HiTechObsessed]

Yeah, you can get super high end motherboards that will optimize traffic for streaming speeds, but you could do something like this that would give you the best network in general:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i3-4130 3.4GHz Dual-Core Processor ($116.97 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B85M-D2V Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($69.79 @ Amazon)
Memory: A-Data XPG V2 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($68.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($65.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Asus Radeon HD 7750 1GB Video Card ($89.98 @ Newegg)
Wired Network Adapter: Intel EXPI9301CT 10/100/1000 Mbps PCI-Express x1 Network Adapter ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Rosewill FBM-01 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($29.98 @ OutletPC)
Power Supply: Corsair Builder 430W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSB0 DVD/CD Writer ($14.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 - 64-bit (OEM) (64-bit) ($99.97 @ OutletPC)
Total: $701.60
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-02-28 10:11 EST-0500)


Includes the Intel controlled Gigabit controller. Will give you the best possible transfer rate. Still be limited by your network speed, but will decrease the overhead on the hardware side by as much as possible.

 

[mespinosatrade]

Again, thank you for your prompt response. I will most probably go this route as I still need to get the two monitors and anything I'm forgetting and don't want to spend more than $1000. Thank you for helping me HiTechObsessed. So just purchase and put it together?

 

[HiTechObsessed]

Yeah, the build is pretty straight-forward. You can watch LinusTechTips build guides on Youtube, he does a great job going step by step and explaining everything. I included the video card just for future upgrading if you want more screens. The integrated GPU can really only power two screens well. I think this setup will do you well

 

[mespinosatrade]

HiTech, so in reality I could run 2 Samsung S23C350H monitors off the motherboard via VGA male to male and DVI to VGA and don't really need the video card right now?

Also, do I need the CPU cooler if I won't be overclocking?

Thanks agian man you're awesome!

Link to monitor
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-S23C350H-23-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor/dp/B00C18YRSA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393605395&sr=8-1&keywords=samsung+led+monitor

 

[HiTechObsessed]

No, no need for overclocking. I included the CPU cooler because the stock Intel one is quite loud. With a non-overclocked CPU, the CPU fan will be almost silent.

If you don't mind extra noise, you definitely don't need it, I just always recommend it because I hate noise! lol

And correct, you don't need the video card right now to run the multiple monitors, the motherboard can handle the 2 just fine. If you look to get a third or more, definitely will need a video card as well. I added the video card to show you what you're looking at. You could probably get a little cheaper, but the 7750 is the lowest I would go for longevity. The <$50 selections usually don't last very long in my experience.

 

[mespinosatrade]

Thanks, just put the order in!

 

[mespinosatrade]

HiTech, I just got the stuff and I'm trying put it together but I don't see where the fans ( the back and front one) from the box plugs into the motherboard. Please note I already put in the CPU and the CPU fan.

I see there is a system fan with 4 pins, which I am assuming is where I need to plug one of the fans. But what about the other one? Also this is 4 pins vs. the 3 pin female end of the fans.

 

[HiTechObsessed]

There should be a fan header labeled SYS_FAN or CHA_FAN you can plug the front fan into. The rear fan you can just connect straight into the power supply with the 4-pin MOLEX plug. Or vice-versa if the back fan doesn't have a MOLEX plug.

 

[mespinosatrade]

Ok, got you. I haven't got the power supply yet so I'll wait on that. Only one of the fans have the molex plug, so I'll have to plug the other one onto the motherboard.

My question now is, does it matter that the fans accept 3 pins but the motherboard has 4 pins? It has a fool proof design so is the 4th pin not used?

 

[HiTechObsessed]

Yeah, just make sure the notch (or whatever it's called) lines up.

 

[mespinosatrade]

You're too quick HiTech! I don't even have time to edit my messaged! Thank you, you're awesome!

 

[HiTechObsessed]

lol no problem. I get emails to my phone and reply from there.

 

[mespinosatrade]

Okay, I got another few newbie questions.

1. I connected the speaker that comes with the case. Which has a red cable (positive) and a black cable (negative) onto the motherboard. My question is its hanging in the air, am I suppose to glue this onto the motherboard or something?

2. When I went to connected the HD audio that comes with the case (there's also a ac '97, but i connected the hd audio), I noticed a green wire is not inside the connect but is out hanging freely. I don't think this is suppose to be like this, most probably came out of the connector. How do I find out which pin it belongs to? The manual doesn't show the colors, etc.

 

[HiTechObsessed]

Hanging in the air is fine, mine is just tied off onto another cable.

The green wire I believe would connect into the spot on the edge next to the blocked pin. Does it have the little metal piece crimped onto the end of it? Should just click into place. And this should be in your case manual, if you haven't looked there.

 

[mespinosatrade]

HiTechObsessed, there's no crimped piece at the end therefore I am not sure if it's broken. Take a look at these pictures and tell me what you think.

Link: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/r4vz6ias6fu2uz1/OJIqSO-n1O

If it's broken, is there a quick fix? If not can I just use the AC97? I believe I was plugging it into the right spot which is F_AUDIO.

 

[mespinosatrade]

Also, just incase you want to help me with the networking too: http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2050979/latency-ping-day-trading.html

Or this retarded question: http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2050985/tilted-computer-damage.html

Lol, dude do you have a paypal? I want to donate some money to you!

 

[HiTechObsessed]

Yeah, looks like it came out of the connector that ties in with the AC '97 wire. You should be able to get a tooth pick or something and push the metal connector out of the plastic head and get the loose green wire in there.

And I'm not an expert in networking, but pings that low (<20) are about as good as it gets, unless you're really close to the server. I get my ping around 20-25, and we're on a high-speed Verizon FiOS plan.

About the computer tilting back, that's perfectly fine. The components you have in your build won't be producing enough heat for that to get effected, and as long as it isn't being jostled, everything will be perfectly fine at an angle.

 

[mespinosatrade]

Bro, that green cable was a mission. I had to take it out the connector, loosen the pin with micro precision with my nails/paperclip, put the green cable back in (THIS WAS SOOOOOO HARD), close the pin back up and put it back in the connector. I really hope you were right and it goes green with green!

In regards to the ping and latency I guess there really isn't anything I could do.

And thank you for the information on tilting the computer.

 

[HiTechObsessed]

That should be it lol I'm sure that wasn't very fun... If that doesn't do it Rosewill will send you a replacement piece if you contact them.

 

[mespinosatrade]

I went to turn it on and it didn't turn on. omg lol

I'm trying to troubleshoot as we speak. I went to the front panel to see if I got the negatives and positive rights. Which seems like I did...

I'm not getting any beeps either.

Maybe the CPU isn't working? I'm pretty sure I did all connections correctly.

 

[mespinosatrade]

Just noticed that cable came out again, could it be this?

Either way I'm redoing the whole build again... Not sure what I messed up, maybe the static killed it? lol

 

[HiTechObsessed]

Was this your first attempt to boot the system? Go through everything in the link in my signature, and see how that works. It most likely isn't the CPU. You can try jumping the pins on the motherboard to get it to turn on.