Day Trading Computer

Hello all,

I need a little help building a day trading computer (direct access trading).

First, I would like to build the computer giving preference to network speed, specifically latency/ping. I know the Internet Service Provider fiber optics and the servers I'm interacting with will determine the ping, right? But the network adapter on the motherboard should have some sort of influence, right? Or is it so small that it doesn't even matter? Some input on that would be cool as I am not sure if what I'm saying is correct!

Secondly, I need to give preference to the platform/programs which run prints, levels ii, charts, news - nothing like running a video game I'm assuming. I would be running this on 2 monitors with maybe a 3rd added later (most probably 24 inches). Therefore, I'm assuming the in order of importance, with the most important being first: Motherboard, CPU Processor, Memory (RAM), Video Card, Hard Drive. I know there's a few things missing that are required like the case, power supply, etc.

I set my budget between $500 and $1000 as I am not sure on a few things like - Could I improve my latency/ping by a lot by buying a better network card or something? Do I really need a top notch processor when one of my brokers recommends a I3 Intel chip or higher?

I've never build a computer before but I believe I can do it after viewing some videos. I would really appreciate some recommendations and/or advice, input, anything! Thank you all in advanced! Any questions please ask!

P.S. I plan in the future to learn to implement some automated strategy into my trading (algorithm trading). I know big firms keep there information well guarded but my understanding is I will need a wayyyyyy bigger budget for that?
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  1. This is the max performance you can get at the budget. Network speeds when wired don't change any kind of noticeably at all. The SSD and 4770 will get you as fast as processing as possible lol You could definitely back this off some to save some money, just wanted to show what the best for your money you can get.

    PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

    CPU: Intel Core i7-4770 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($302.98 @ SuperBiiz)
    CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ OutletPC)
    Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B85-HD3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($86.99 @ Newegg)
    Memory: A-Data XPG V2 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($68.99 @ Newegg)
    Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($65.99 @ Newegg)
    Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.98 @ OutletPC)
    Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 750 1GB Video Card ($119.99 @ Amazon)
    Case: Antec One ATX Mid Tower Case ($45.98 @ Newegg)
    Power Supply: SeaSonic 520W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($73.99 @ SuperBiiz)
    Optical Drive: LG GH24NSB0 DVD/CD Writer ($14.99 @ Newegg)
    Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 - 64-bit (OEM) (64-bit) ($99.97 @ OutletPC)
    Total: $969.83
    (Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
    (Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-02-27 12:27 EST-0500)
  2. Thank you for your prompt response.

    So doesn't matter what network adapter it has, once wired the ping/latency isn't affected?

    And yes, might have to downgrade a little as I think that's more than enough on the processing side lol, all I care about is network speed.

    I really appreciate the help, thank you!
  3. Yeah, you can get super high end motherboards that will optimize traffic for streaming speeds, but you could do something like this that would give you the best network in general:

    PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

    CPU: Intel Core i3-4130 3.4GHz Dual-Core Processor ($116.97 @ OutletPC)
    CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ OutletPC)
    Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B85M-D2V Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($69.79 @ Amazon)
    Memory: A-Data XPG V2 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($68.99 @ Newegg)
    Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($65.99 @ Newegg)
    Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.98 @ OutletPC)
    Video Card: Asus Radeon HD 7750 1GB Video Card ($89.98 @ Newegg)
    Wired Network Adapter: Intel EXPI9301CT 10/100/1000 Mbps PCI-Express x1 Network Adapter ($34.99 @ Newegg)
    Case: Rosewill FBM-01 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($29.98 @ OutletPC)
    Power Supply: Corsair Builder 430W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($19.99 @ Newegg)
    Optical Drive: LG GH24NSB0 DVD/CD Writer ($14.99 @ Newegg)
    Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 - 64-bit (OEM) (64-bit) ($99.97 @ OutletPC)
    Total: $701.60
    (Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
    (Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-02-28 10:11 EST-0500)

    Includes the Intel controlled Gigabit controller. Will give you the best possible transfer rate. Still be limited by your network speed, but will decrease the overhead on the hardware side by as much as possible.
  4. Again, thank you for your prompt response. I will most probably go this route as I still need to get the two monitors and anything I'm forgetting and don't want to spend more than $1000. Thank you for helping me HiTechObsessed. So just purchase and put it together?
  5. Yeah, the build is pretty straight-forward. You can watch LinusTechTips build guides on Youtube, he does a great job going step by step and explaining everything. I included the video card just for future upgrading if you want more screens. The integrated GPU can really only power two screens well. I think this setup will do you well :)
  6. HiTech, so in reality I could run 2 Samsung S23C350H monitors off the motherboard via VGA male to male and DVI to VGA and don't really need the video card right now?

    Also, do I need the CPU cooler if I won't be overclocking?

    Thanks agian man you're awesome!

    Link to monitor
  7. No, no need for overclocking. I included the CPU cooler because the stock Intel one is quite loud. With a non-overclocked CPU, the CPU fan will be almost silent.

    If you don't mind extra noise, you definitely don't need it, I just always recommend it because I hate noise! lol

    And correct, you don't need the video card right now to run the multiple monitors, the motherboard can handle the 2 just fine. If you look to get a third or more, definitely will need a video card as well. I added the video card to show you what you're looking at. You could probably get a little cheaper, but the 7750 is the lowest I would go for longevity. The <$50 selections usually don't last very long in my experience.
  8. Thanks, just put the order in!
  9. HiTech, I just got the stuff and I'm trying put it together but I don't see where the fans ( the back and front one) from the box plugs into the motherboard. Please note I already put in the CPU and the CPU fan.

    I see there is a system fan with 4 pins, which I am assuming is where I need to plug one of the fans. But what about the other one? Also this is 4 pins vs. the 3 pin female end of the fans.
  10. There should be a fan header labeled SYS_FAN or CHA_FAN you can plug the front fan into. The rear fan you can just connect straight into the power supply with the 4-pin MOLEX plug. Or vice-versa if the back fan doesn't have a MOLEX plug.
  11. Ok, got you. I haven't got the power supply yet so I'll wait on that. Only one of the fans have the molex plug, so I'll have to plug the other one onto the motherboard.

    My question now is, does it matter that the fans accept 3 pins but the motherboard has 4 pins? It has a fool proof design so is the 4th pin not used?
  12. Yeah, just make sure the notch (or whatever it's called) lines up.
  13. You're too quick HiTech! I don't even have time to edit my messaged! Thank you, you're awesome!
  14. lol no problem. I get emails to my phone and reply from there.
  15. Okay, I got another few newbie questions.

    1. I connected the speaker that comes with the case. Which has a red cable (positive) and a black cable (negative) onto the motherboard. My question is its hanging in the air, am I suppose to glue this onto the motherboard or something?

    2. When I went to connected the HD audio that comes with the case (there's also a ac '97, but i connected the hd audio), I noticed a green wire is not inside the connect but is out hanging freely. I don't think this is suppose to be like this, most probably came out of the connector. How do I find out which pin it belongs to? The manual doesn't show the colors, etc.
  16. Hanging in the air is fine, mine is just tied off onto another cable.

    The green wire I believe would connect into the spot on the edge next to the blocked pin. Does it have the little metal piece crimped onto the end of it? Should just click into place. And this should be in your case manual, if you haven't looked there.
  17. HiTechObsessed, there's no crimped piece at the end therefore I am not sure if it's broken. Take a look at these pictures and tell me what you think.


    If it's broken, is there a quick fix? If not can I just use the AC97? I believe I was plugging it into the right spot which is F_AUDIO.
  18. Also, just incase you want to help me with the networking too:

    Or this retarded question:

    Lol, dude do you have a paypal? I want to donate some money to you!
  19. Yeah, looks like it came out of the connector that ties in with the AC '97 wire. You should be able to get a tooth pick or something and push the metal connector out of the plastic head and get the loose green wire in there.

    And I'm not an expert in networking, but pings that low (<20) are about as good as it gets, unless you're really close to the server. I get my ping around 20-25, and we're on a high-speed Verizon FiOS plan.

    About the computer tilting back, that's perfectly fine. The components you have in your build won't be producing enough heat for that to get effected, and as long as it isn't being jostled, everything will be perfectly fine at an angle.
  20. Bro, that green cable was a mission. I had to take it out the connector, loosen the pin with micro precision with my nails/paperclip, put the green cable back in (THIS WAS SOOOOOO HARD), close the pin back up and put it back in the connector. I really hope you were right and it goes green with green!

    In regards to the ping and latency I guess there really isn't anything I could do.

    And thank you for the information on tilting the computer.
  21. That should be it lol I'm sure that wasn't very fun... If that doesn't do it Rosewill will send you a replacement piece if you contact them.
  22. I went to turn it on and it didn't turn on. omg lol

    I'm trying to troubleshoot as we speak. I went to the front panel to see if I got the negatives and positive rights. Which seems like I did...

    I'm not getting any beeps either.

    Maybe the CPU isn't working? I'm pretty sure I did all connections correctly.
  23. Just noticed that cable came out again, could it be this?

    Either way I'm redoing the whole build again... Not sure what I messed up, maybe the static killed it? lol
  24. Was this your first attempt to boot the system? Go through everything in the link in my signature, and see how that works. It most likely isn't the CPU. You can try jumping the pins on the motherboard to get it to turn on.
  25. I took everything apart already.


    I can't get the motherboard out. I can't unscrew the screws because it's either A. Spinning or B. Came off the case and its spinning.

    Lol, maybe this was the problem? I didn't put the stands right?
  26. Sounds like you just over-tightened into the stand off. Not really a problem, just get the other screws out, and you can use some pliers to torque the standoff off the screw. Happens all the time lol

    When you tried to turn it on, what all happened? Any lights or fans come on, or just complete nothing?
  27. Complete nothing, maybe the delivery guy broke the CPU while throwing the boxes around? I'm not sure but either way I wanted to do everything all over. But it seems I hit a wall with the standoffs and the motherboard.

    If I take off the motherboard from the case, I could then take off the CPU fan (which I have no idea how I'm going to do that), then make sure I put the processor correctly, and start all over with the built.

    But then how will I put it back together if the standoffs are going to be spinning? There is no way I could tighten the screws if the standoffs are spinning.
  28. As of this moment, some standoffs are fixed others are spinning, the motherboard is not completely fixed in place, it has some play to it. Wouldn't this be an issue?
  29. Yeah, that's why I said to hold the standoffs with a pair of pliers and unscrew the motherboard screw.

    The CPU didn't break, those are pretty impossible to damage that way lol Are you sure the power supply was on? Try going through the steps in the link in my description and see where that gets you.
  30. I did everything all over again except take off the cpu fan to check if I put the processor correctly, which im pretty darn sure I did because if not it wouldn't even close right...

    I was reading the user guide for the motherboard and it says "to meet expansion requirements, it is recommended that a power supply that can withstand high power consumption be used (500W or greater). Could it be that the 430W isn't enough?
  31. It's definitely not the power supply, that build will draw maybe 175w max, and only about 75-100 or so to turn on. Did you go through everything in my signature?
  32. I took everything apart again except the CPU fan and CPU. I put the motherboard on top of a box. I plugged in the 24pin and 8pin connector from the power supply. I turned on the power supply and nothing happened. I then added the speaker, nothing happened. I then added the power switch from the case and pressed the button, nothing happened. In between each step I turned off the power supply and unplugged it from the wall.

    This would be step number 23? I figured if this didn't work, what will...
  33. Alright, hmm. Try doing this:

    It sounds like just a bad PSU or a bad motherboard. Plug the fans into the 4-pin molex connectors, and see if the turn on also if the power supply fan spins up.
  34. I figured out the problem. I took off the power switch and went ahead and shorted it instead with a screwdriver and the CPU Fan started working. So it has to be the case and it's wiring.
  35. That's what I said to do some posts back :P lol

    Try putting the reset switch leads onto the power pins and see if hitting the reset button turns it on. Not the best solution, but would let you power on until they can send a replacement power switch lol
  36. That worked, just ordered the replacement.. hopefully this one doesn't give me any issues. I'm going to put it all together using the reset that way I could at least start installing everything.

    Then take everything apart when the new case gets here lol... I'm going to be a pro by the time that case gets here
  37. lol it's natures way of getting you good at it ;)

    Glad to hear it was a simple thing at least. Sorry you had something go wrong in the first build, I know that's demoralizing lol
  38. It's not a thing. I use to mess around with computers back when Windows 95 came out. I had to upgrade things here. This was a piece of cake really lol... Everything is so much easier now days. Installing windows 7 on the ssd now. Wanted to save a little money, I already have the "cd".
  39. Awesome lol glad to hear it's working now. I was secretly thinking to myself: 'shit, the parts I recommended don't work, what did I do!' lol
  40. Hahaha! Yeah, I just got the new case took everything out of the old and put in everything, works perfect! Except one thing, I can't seem to get the audio to work, at first I thought it was that green cable from the HD audio connector but now that I got the new case and I plugged everything I'm confused.

    Under device manager, under sound, video and game controllers I have "Realtek High Definition Audio" and it says under device status "the device is working properly" but where the volume is located I have an X showing that something is not right. I click it and it says "Plug in the speaker, headset or headphone The peripheral does not appear to be plugged in. Check the connection. Proceed to the next step to finish.

    I plugged the HD connector from the case on the F_AUDIO on the motherboard. I left the AC 97 one hanging, was I suppose to plug this in somewhere?

    I went into the BIOs and it shows the "audio controller" was on Auto. I have 2 S23C350H monitors. I updated the driver. It says it has built-in speakers but I don't see any. Will look more into this.
  41. I think I got played, the monitor doesn't have audio. Lol
  42. Ok that makes sense lol this is why my relationship with technology is a love/extreme loathing one lol
  43. Yup! Well it's been a week now and everything works great. Thanks HiTechObsessed for everything you're awesome!
  44. Wow, a week has already passed? lol Glad to hear it man! Enjoy :)
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