UPS NOT switching properly to battery when PC is under load

timAugustine

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Apr 10, 2014
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Hi there,

I've been having this issue wherein my ups (an APC 700 VA / 420 Watts piece ) does not switch to battery when there's a surge or under-voltage fast enough. Now this happens only when my PC is under heavy load. That is, when I'm playing a game or when I'm working on something computationally intensive (vfx stuff)

I've had this issue for about a year since I bought my UPS but it wasn't much of a bother as the place I lived in had a relatively stable power grid. But not where I am living now. At certain times of the day there are frequent surges and under-voltages. And every time one of the two happens fast enough (I think), my PC is switched off forcibly. I've lost a hard drive now and I don't want this to repeat.

From what I looked around, I think it's because under heavy load, my 420 Watts UPS is not able to support my 500 Watts PSU. But I don't know if this is the ONLY reason why I'm having this issue.

I'm now considering buying this model: http://www.amazon.in/APC-UPS-Model-BR1500G-IN-Battery/dp/B003Y24DEU/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1397152136&sr=8-11&keywords=ups

But it's far more pricey so I need to know if buying this would solve my problem.

Here's my system configuration as it may help:

Phenom II x6 1090T
12GB of Ram
a I TB HDD
a gts450 and powering all this,
a Corsair CX500.

My situation is rather dire as summer's approaching and the power grid's fluctuations continually increasing.

Any response regarding this would be much appreciated!

Thanking you,
Tim

PS: Sorry for the long post, haha
 

polke45

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Feb 22, 2008
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I think your psu can't supply the amount of power your pc needs. When it switches to battery backup, your pc doesn't have enough power so it shut down. I have a 700W and it works fine.
 
Your build won't run over 300w at total max load; the power supply can't supply any more than the system is drawing, so it's not the power supply's fault. It sounds like a bad UPS. Increasing the power supply wattage won't do anything.
 

timAugustine

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Hi polke45, thanks for the response!

I'm not able to understand why the pc doesn't have enough power only when the ups is switching to battery? One of my immediate plans is to buy a 750 - 800 Watt PSU. So would such a powerful hardware still be supported by the 430 Watt UPS?

Thanks again!
T.

 

polke45

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I meant you may need a better UPS (I have a 700 W UPS, not PSU), but as HiTechObsessed, you could have a bad UPS. Install APC program and run the test to see if the device is bad

edit: the UPS i have has a usb connector for monitoring the device. Not sure if your device has one.

Another way to test it is plug in something like a TV and unplug the UPS to see if the battery kicks in
 

timAugustine

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Apr 10, 2014
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Ah, a faulty UPS, you say?

That never struck me!

One of the first things that I did after I purchased this was to plug the PC in and turn the AC power supply on and off. When the PC is idle, it worked like a charm. And when it was under intentional load, it just swited off along with the AC power supply.

But I never tested it with another electronic appliance.

polke45, it does have a separate line to the PC through which I could monitor stuff and all the self test says things are working fine (including the one I just did, haha)

I think I'll follow up with APC and have them check my UPS. I hope they fix it.
 

timAugustine

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Apr 10, 2014
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I don't have any of that with me. In fact, the only other electronic appliance at my place is my 1200W induction stove. Which has settings for 200, 400, 600, 900 and 1200W. Would connecting the stove to it at 400W be equivalent to what you're suggesting?
 
Would be similar. Would just be interesting to see. Check first if that's heat output or actual electric usage. Heat output is about 60% what the actual electricity usage is (So if it's 200w heat, it'll be closer to 340w power usage)
 

timAugustine

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I'm not sure of that. I checked the website I purchased it from and in the specs they listed this:
" Power Consumption

This appliance has been designed to consume a maximum power of 1200 watts functioning on a power input between 220 to 240 volts. "

So what would this equate to in your terms? Heat output or actual electric usage ( from the choice of words, I'd say it's this, but my knowledge in this field is negligible )

Thanks,
T
 

timAugustine

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That's it then! I'll test it and let you know.

Thanks SO much for guiding me through this!