[Car Audio] Does this car audio setup work? Is there any bottleneck going on?

Shiggy

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No experience in car audio.

I was just wondering if these components will cause any sort of shortage or bottleneck.

Trying to keep it good for the price.



Kenwood KDC-152 In-Dash MP3/WMA CD Receiver
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006KKS7XQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1SX1R00E2EUMR


BOSS Audio R1100M Riot 1100-watts Monoblock Class A/B 1 Channel 2-8 Ohm Stable Amplifier with Remote Subwoofer Level Control
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004S4XNEO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER


Clarion EQS746 1/2 DIN Graphic Equalizer with Built-in Crossover
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EZV3T8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER


Kenwood Kfc-P709Ps 6.5-Inch Performance Series Component Speaker System
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037PH2CY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1FMHNVWMGI839

Rockford Fosgate R2S-1X12 R2 Shallow Prime Single 12-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0068XYLVC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER



My current car holds factory installed speakers. One in the left, and one in the right. Nothing else.

Will likely take them to a car shop to get them installed.
 
Solution
That amp is better than the one I chose. Just remember it will easily blow that subwoofer if turned too high. The head unit you picked out will also suit your needs quite well. Those are both good choices. That will end up being a pretty good stereo, especially when looking at the price.

wip99gt

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Don't get the equalizer. Spend the extra on a better head unit. There is no point in an eq if you're only running an amplifier for a subwoofer. That amplifier is not that good either but there will be nothing of good quality even close to that price range. Installing the stereo yourself isn't that hard and could save you a couple of hundred dollars as well which can then be put in to better quality components. What is your budget and vehicle?
 

Shiggy

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Thanks for the reply.

I will skip on the equalizer.

What do you mean by "only running an amplifier for a subwoofer"? Was there more component to plug into the subwoofer that I am unaware of?

I assumed that good/better amplifier will cost much more, but then again I'm only trying to surpass whatever my current car audio have.

No budget. If you force me to set one, $500. Just cheaper I can finish the better. As long as they can play sound and do what they're suppose to do without breaking too easily, I am satisfied. I'm not trying to get the best which would be thousands of dollars.

My car is used GF-L900S

 

wip99gt

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To properly use that equalizer you'd need to run all your speakers off of amplifiers. When you start getting in to higher end stereos people will run 2+ amps. The crossover part would be a little useful for tuning the sub but the extra money would be much better spend on a better head unit which will have more options and a better internal amplifier for the rest of the speakers.
For a $500 price range and if you really want a subwoofer I'd do:
Subwoofer:
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R2S-1X10-10-Inch-Enclosure/dp/B0068XYNH4/ref=sr_1_8?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1402618067&sr=1-8
Amplifier:
http://www.amazon.com/Soundstream-PN1-450D-Monoblock-Motorcycle-Amplifier/dp/B00K70XO92/ref=sr_1_5?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1402618142&sr=1-5
Speakers:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037PH2CY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1FMHNVWMGI839
Head Unit:
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-DEH-4200UB-Receiver-Display-Control/dp/B00389XE12/ref=sr_1_159?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1402618702&sr=1-159#productDetails
With getting the head unit install kit and all the cable for the amplifier you'd be right around the $500 dollar mark. That setup will give you much better sound and be more power efficient. Also that head unit has a dedicated subwoofer rca output so you'll be able to tune the system better. Another perk is for a few dollars more you can get the bluetooth kit for the head unit. I didn't look in to the speakers because I am not sure what will fit in that car. You did pick components to remember that there are separate tweeters for each side. If your car does not have them that will be a bit more work to install. If you choose to do it yourself just ask me and I can give you some help on it like how to route the cables, set up the amp, etc.
 

Shiggy

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Thank you for the recommendation on the items. The fact that I am in Japan right now makes 3/4 of the item you chose not available for shipping. The only item available for shipping is the speakers. Tried looking for the item model in a different site for Japan, however they did not have one.

I went into a car repair shop, pretty much one of the biggest popular car shop around where I live, and all of the components are over $100 in price which I assume is normal. I will likely buy from Amazon.

Do you think I'll be okay with having everything the same as my original choice with the speaker(+tweeter), subwoofer, amplifier, and just changing the head unit to something better?

I was looking at that 10 inch subwoofer before as well, however only the 12 inch was available for shipping.
 

wip99gt

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I would really urge you to try find a class D amplifier but I would prefer a quality class A/B over a crappy Class D. Class D are much more power efficient and a better option for a subwoofer. What you want to look for with an amp is the RMS wattage. Cheap amplifiers like Pyle, Boss, etc will show peak wattage as the amp output. For instance that Boss 1100 watt amp you showed might put out the same power as the 450watt listed. Now you only want 250 watt max for that subwoofer you listed so you only really need a 300 watt amp. You always want to buy a little bigger than you need so you don't push the amp to hard. Running them at 100% will shorten their life.
There are many types of head unit and amplifier makers and a lot of good ones that you could probably get in Japan that I've never heard or dealt with before so just look at some reviews or pm me the specs. The subwoofer and speakers you chose are fine. For the head unit I would look for one that has a dedicated subwoofer preout and 15+ watts rms for the speakers.
 

Shiggy

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Keeping the Speaker and Subwoofer the same, this is what I found on the Amplifier and Head Unit.

Amplifier:
Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=15DESZCQP9HVK&coliid=I2ZYT7ADHXQG94&psc=1

Class D. There is also dynamic power, total power, and rated power. Didn't know which one to look at. http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/r500x1d

My subwoofer is at 250 Watts RMS.


Head Unit:
JVC KDR540 CD-USB Receiver AUX Input Bluetooth Ready http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ARSNT7Q/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=15DESZCQP9HVK&coliid=I2N4VWP06VZ3M6

Specification states: 20W RMS x 4 CH at 4 ohms and no more than 1.0% THD + N http://support.jvc.com/consumer/product.jsp?modelId=MODL029163&pathId=54&page=3&archive=true

 

wip99gt

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That amp is better than the one I chose. Just remember it will easily blow that subwoofer if turned too high. The head unit you picked out will also suit your needs quite well. Those are both good choices. That will end up being a pretty good stereo, especially when looking at the price.
 
Solution

Shiggy

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Jun 16, 2013
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Thank you.