Looking for better 2600k temps

[Noran]

OK long story short.
I originally built this rig with a P8p67 EVO paired with an i7 2600K.
On the 2600K I attached a CoolMaster Hyper-N 520 (a dual 92mm push/pull HSF)

I was able to OC it to 4.0Ghz, with core 4 going up to about 70-72C which was about 6-10C hotter then the other cores at any given moment.
I had assumed that this was due to my TIM application so I reapplied using various methods.. I finally settled on the narrow Line method straight down the IHS. But still yielded no real change.

I recently upgraded to the CoolMaster Hyper 212 EVO, in hopes of increasing my OC after a fan on the N520 gave out...
well these are the results...

Didn't exactly thrill me... but it WAS lower LOL

Anyway I have again settled on the line method...
And while I don't have a new screen cap as of writing this I was able to push the OC to 4.2Ghz while having core 4 still sit under 75C, pretty much what it was on the N520 @4.0Ghz.
(All at stock volts I might add)

These temps while not dangerous, def don't really thrill me, as I hear others having OC's of 4.5 @ lower temps...

Maybe I just don't have a golden chip, and I'm being to picky perhaps lol??

Maybe there's a better TIM application method i'm missing for the 212 Evo?

I hate to admit to MAYBE the IHS being uneven and needing lapping... That makes me shutter a bit...

I have been thinking of getting Arctic MX-4 instead of using the stock CM paste, and upgrading the 212's stock fan to CM Jetflo 96CFM's:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103193

Any thoughts from anyone?

 

[CompuTronix]

I would recommend a second fan for your 212 EVO.

What was your ambient?
What was your Vcore?
What software did you use to load test?

You might want to give this Sticky a read: Intel Temperature Guide - http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-1800828/intel-temperature-guide.html

CT

 

[Noran]

I would recommend a second fan for your 212 EVO.

What was your ambient?
What was your Vcore?
What software did you use to load test?

You might want to give this Sticky a read: Intel Temperature Guide - http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-1800828/intel-temperature-guide.html

CT

My ambient is about 20 - 23C depending on the day.

The Vcore is stock, well I know if varies from chip to chip.. but i left it unadjusted at 1.312V.
And so far just used prime95, with small fft.

As for the 2nd fan... how do you recommend I connect one... I will probubly get 2 Jetflo's in such a case.
But I only have one CPU header on my mobo, should I plug it into the spare slot I have on my controller?
I read a few people use splitters, but that doesn't sound very healthy for the header.

And thanks, will take a look at that right now!

 

[4Ryan6]

Better cooling than you have now with your 2600K will require a better cooling solution, and a 2nd fan on the EVO isn't going to make much difference, if any at all, or Cooler Master would already offer a dual fan model but Cooler Master already knows the EVO is at it's pinnacle of performance.

You may consider moving up in heat sink quality to something like a Noctua NH-D14 that will yield some cooler temps than an EVO.

It is a passive capable heat pipe heat sink and it will benefit from adding higher performance cooling fans, however that also brings more noise to the table to deal with.

Why don't you read this and see what you may consider doing?

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2196038/air-cooling-water-cooling-things.html

 

[Noran]

Better cooling than you have now with your 2600K will require a better cooling solution, and a 2nd fan on the EVO isn't going to make much difference, if any at all, or Cooler Master would already offer a dual fan model but Cooler Master already knows the EVO is at it's pinnacle of performance.

You may consider moving up in heat sink quality to something like a Noctua NH-D14 that will yield some cooler temps than an EVO.

It is a passive capable heat pipe heat sink and it will benefit from adding higher performance cooling fans, however that also brings more noise to the table to deal with.

Why don't you read this and see what you may consider doing?

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2196038/air-cooling-water-cooling-things.html

I actually had thought about shelling it out for the Noctua NH-D14, but the price for an air cooler seemed a bit obtuse.. but hey, I guess your paying for the design, lol. Especially if it's better then the 212 Evo, Although I guess a good question in that regard should be, how much better? And if it's going to have a problem fitting over the heatfins on my DIMMS, and has yet to give an answer to why my temps are so high in the first place.

But I do understand that this cooler would be better then the 212 in any case.

 

[4Ryan6]

Actually with a CMH212EVO your temps are not that bad, they're pretty much in line with the capabilities of the air cooler.

These were actual tests I ran.

CPU Temperature Results:

These comparative tests below were run with my 2500K overclocked to 4500mhz @ 1.325v with one 580GTX at 23c ambient.
The 4 core temperatures were averaged together for one total score.

Air Cooling;
Noctua NH-D14, Idle = 32.75c, Load = 54.75c (using the Noctua fans)
Thermalright 120 Extreme 2 fans in push/pull, Idle = 32c, Load = 51.75c (using Scythe Slipstream 110cfm fans)

Standard Water Cooling Closed Loop;
XSPC Rasa RS240 kit, Idle = 30.75c, Load = 50c
XSPC Rasa with a Black Ice 240 Radiator, Idle = 30.25c, Load = 48.75c

 

[4Ryan6]

You addressed TIM application methods and I always tell others there is no better knowing?, than pulling the heat sink and inspecting the thermal footprint as it will tell you what's going on under that heat sink.

When it comes to thermal compound application you want just enough to do the job, thinning under clamping pressure to barely reaching the edges of the IHS but not squishing out all around the edges, too much thermal compound is bad not good.

The thermal footprint will also tell you the condition of the mating surfaces as to whether they're making good contact or not.

It is much better to know what's going on underneath the heat sink than to wonder.

You also asked about Artic MX-4 and it is an excellent thermal compound.

 

[4Ryan6]

Load temperatures are also affected by the BIOS settings you're using to overclock the 2600K, and especially with the Sandy Bridge CPU if you are overclocking the CPU memory controller or not?

 

[4Ryan6]

Just to make you aware you can still acquire a Thermal Right TRUE, it is renamed but the heat sink itself is actually a TRUE.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...oduct_info&cPath=46_557_778&products_id=34243

There is no memory module clearance issues with this heat sink to my knowledge.

The Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme, nicknamed the TRUE was one of the first passive heat sinks to arrive on the computer scene, it was also the heat sink I used in the Thermal Compound Roundup for the air cooling tests.

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/274824-29-thermal-compound-roundup-2011

 

[Noran]

Load temperatures are also affected by the BIOS settings you're using to overclock the 2600K, and especially with the Sandy Bridge CPU if you are overclocking the CPU memory controller or not?

Basically nothing is ajdusted other then the multiplier ratio itself and turning off C6 states.
I left my memory @ a stock XMP of 2133Mhz and did not OC at all by increasing the BLCK.

 

[Noran]

You addressed TIM application methods and I always tell others there is no better knowing?, than pulling the heat sink and inspecting the thermal footprint as it will tell you what's going on under that heat sink.

When it comes to thermal compound application you want just enough to do the job, thinning under clamping pressure to barely reaching the edges of the IHS but not squishing out all around the edges, too much thermal compound is bad not good.

The thermal footprint will also tell you the condition of the mating surfaces as to whether they're making good contact or not.

It is much better to know what's going on underneath the heat sink than to wonder.

You also asked about Artic MX-4 and it is an excellent thermal compound.

Its also good to here that these temps arn't as so far out as I thought, and more just be expecting the thing to cool better given the hype for it, lol.

But yes, I'm actually going to order the MX-4 myself, just because I definitly would like a paste that out performs the CM Stock stuff.
I'll have to take a closer look at the footprint from the last application when I get the MX-4, and see if anything needs adjusting on my end.

 

[4Ryan6]

I like the consistency of the MX-4 it will spread out to a very thin layer exactly what you want to end up with and is fantastic for air or water cooling.

 

[4Ryan6]

Load temperatures are also affected by the BIOS settings you're using to overclock the 2600K, and especially with the Sandy Bridge CPU if you are overclocking the CPU memory controller or not?

Basically nothing is ajdusted other then the multiplier ratio itself and turning off C6 states.
I left my memory @ a stock XMP of 2133Mhz and did not OC at all by increasing the BLCK.

The Sandy Bridge memory controller was designed to run either 1066mhz or 1333mhz DDR3 memory at slot voltage of 1.50v, your load temperature will drop some if you stop overclocking the memory controller past it's design specifications, and 2133mhz is past those specifications.

You could test and see by disabling the XMP profile and manually setting your memory to 1333mhz speed, and manually set your timings to 9,9,9 24 at a 2t or 2n command rate at a 1.50 slot voltage and see if your load temperature drops any, you may actually be able to further tighten those timings at 1333mhz to 7,7,7,21 or maybe even 7,7,7,18 and still use a 2t or 2n command rate at 1.50v.

Believe it or not if your memory was spec'd at 2133mhz at cas 11, your end performance of 1333mhz at cas 7 will be comparable, been there done that.

That is if your memory can run those cas timings at 1333mhz, I know it can if it is G-Skill Ripjaws X, what exactly are you running memory wise, brand and model #s?