How To Choose A Motherboard: A Guide For Beginners
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Motherboards are a critical piece of PC hardware. Learn how to choose a model that's compatible with your existing components, or right for your next build.?
How To Choose A Motherboard: A Guide For Beginners : Read more
How To Choose A Motherboard: A Guide For Beginners : Read more
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Reply to Crashman
olafgarten
October 1, 2014 3:47:13 AM
kamhagh
October 1, 2014 4:33:31 AM
Related resources
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- Please guide me on which motherboard to choose. - Forum
- Beginners Guide to Building a gaming PC? - Forum
Great article, it has info on every small aspect that most mainstream users neglect, and the comparision b/w the chipsets and PCIe lanes support is very useful for first timers.
The fact that memory clearance and slots often get overlooked, its better to have 4 slots for the sake of upgradility. Higher profile sticks often obstruct in cooler installation too.
The chipset part was comprehensive, too. Well ATX form factor is standard nowadays, and given that most mid towers support that, I'd get it over mATX anyday, for more space b/w the components like GPUs.
Also, higher the speed, lower the CL, better the sticks, but the fact that APUs require faster memory for optimal performance, because they use it as VRAM, should be considered. Faster memory helps in OCing too, timings don't matter as much, but yes it should not fall beyond CL11 for 2400MHz.
The fact that memory clearance and slots often get overlooked, its better to have 4 slots for the sake of upgradility. Higher profile sticks often obstruct in cooler installation too.
The chipset part was comprehensive, too. Well ATX form factor is standard nowadays, and given that most mid towers support that, I'd get it over mATX anyday, for more space b/w the components like GPUs.
Also, higher the speed, lower the CL, better the sticks, but the fact that APUs require faster memory for optimal performance, because they use it as VRAM, should be considered. Faster memory helps in OCing too, timings don't matter as much, but yes it should not fall beyond CL11 for 2400MHz.
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Reply to MeteorsRaining
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Thomas, I think you got a little lost (though I wouldn't quite say "mired") in motherboard description rather than motherboard selection. You went into great detail on what is available, but very little on why someone might want or need it.
I too have thought about writing on this subject. Novuake, by all means continue with your effort. More data points are almost always helpful, and we know that newbs sometimes need all the help they can get.
I too have thought about writing on this subject. Novuake, by all means continue with your effort. More data points are almost always helpful, and we know that newbs sometimes need all the help they can get.
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Reply to Onus
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Onus said:
Thomas, I think you got a little lost (though I wouldn't quite say "mired") in motherboard description rather than motherboard selection. You went into great detail on what is available, but very little on why someone might want or need it.I too have thought about writing on this subject. Novuake, by all means continue with your effort. More data points are almost always helpful, and we know that newbs sometimes need all the help they can get.
Pick a CPU based on the apps you already use (on the PC you didn't build) and plan to use
Pick cards and storage
Pick the size of the PC you want. Make sure it's big enough for your cards and storage
Pick a motherboard that fits those parameters.
The rest is just, well, mostly reassurance
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Reply to Crashman
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Crashman said:
Pick a CPU based on the apps you already use (on the PC you didn't build) and plan to use
Pick cards and storage
Pick the size of the PC you want. Make sure it's big enough for your cards and storage
Pick a motherboard that fits those parameters.
The rest is just, well, mostly reassurance
This is one reasonable synopsis of the process. What is then necessary is a discussion of slots, ports, and desired options for tweaking, particularly relating to performance (e.g. native vs. 3rd party controllers, VRM quality and BIOS options for overclocking, etc), size constraints, with component quality/longevity thrown in as well.
What is needed is a crosstab table of chipsets and the features they support; e.g. RAID versions, USB3.0, SATA 6Gb/s, etc.
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Reply to Onus
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How to pick a motherboard
1. Decided on whether you want to go with AMD or Intel
2. Pick a board based on the CPU you want to have
3. Look at socket type, socket type must match the CPU you're getting, so if your getting a socket 1150 CPU, the motherboard must also say socket 1150. Same with AMD, AM3+ CPU must have a board that says AM3+
4. Large cases can fit large boards and small boards. But small cases cannot fit large boards. Best to check out the case specs to see what boards will fit.
5. If you want to run 2 video cards, make sure the board has at least 2x PCIe x16 slots. Those that support CFX and SLI will most likely have the CFX or SLI logo on the motherboard box. But check the motherboard manual or do some online research to confirm on it.
6. Rest are just feature you want to have or not like wifi, Bluetooth, or the need for surround sound speakers. Most audio ports will just be Red, Green, Blue Some board will have that as well as Orange, Black, and Grey.
7. Most important, out of all of them is not to rush on it. Do some research and read lots of reviews before buying.
1. Decided on whether you want to go with AMD or Intel
2. Pick a board based on the CPU you want to have
3. Look at socket type, socket type must match the CPU you're getting, so if your getting a socket 1150 CPU, the motherboard must also say socket 1150. Same with AMD, AM3+ CPU must have a board that says AM3+
4. Large cases can fit large boards and small boards. But small cases cannot fit large boards. Best to check out the case specs to see what boards will fit.
5. If you want to run 2 video cards, make sure the board has at least 2x PCIe x16 slots. Those that support CFX and SLI will most likely have the CFX or SLI logo on the motherboard box. But check the motherboard manual or do some online research to confirm on it.
6. Rest are just feature you want to have or not like wifi, Bluetooth, or the need for surround sound speakers. Most audio ports will just be Red, Green, Blue Some board will have that as well as Orange, Black, and Grey.
7. Most important, out of all of them is not to rush on it. Do some research and read lots of reviews before buying.
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Reply to lp231
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ta152h
October 1, 2014 11:20:56 AM
catatech
October 1, 2014 11:21:50 AM
ta152h
October 1, 2014 11:55:15 AM
One thing I'd add is to pay attention to the maker of the motherboard.
I bought an ECS only because it was the only motherboard that had what I wanted. Yes, I know, I still should not have, but I didn't know just how bad they are. It wouldn't use top of the line memory, wouldn't keep memory timings I put in, constantly lost the time, and had a terribly loud fan, on a processor that topped out at 25 watts. Then it started putting up the wrong display resolution, and wouldn't let me change it to the appropriate values for my monitor. I'd have to reset the firmware, then it would work, then fail again two days later. Pure junk.
Technical support was abysmal as well. They solved nothing, and just kept asking me to do things I had already done, and told them I had already done. Entirely useless. I basically just removed the motherboard once the AM1 platform came out, since it was similar enough (I had an a6-5200, on the KBN-I).
I'll never get another ECS. Even if the motherboard was a lemon, the fact they couldn't assist at all, and had one firmware release a few weeks after the first, and then nothing after that, makes it clear the company isn't very good.
I replaced it with an Asrock, because I wanted DisplayPort (this is another important characteristic of a motherboard, make sure it has the video output that matches your monitor, if you have an existing one you wish to use with it), and no more problems.
So getting a reputable brand is always a good idea.
I bought an ECS only because it was the only motherboard that had what I wanted. Yes, I know, I still should not have, but I didn't know just how bad they are. It wouldn't use top of the line memory, wouldn't keep memory timings I put in, constantly lost the time, and had a terribly loud fan, on a processor that topped out at 25 watts. Then it started putting up the wrong display resolution, and wouldn't let me change it to the appropriate values for my monitor. I'd have to reset the firmware, then it would work, then fail again two days later. Pure junk.
Technical support was abysmal as well. They solved nothing, and just kept asking me to do things I had already done, and told them I had already done. Entirely useless. I basically just removed the motherboard once the AM1 platform came out, since it was similar enough (I had an a6-5200, on the KBN-I).
I'll never get another ECS. Even if the motherboard was a lemon, the fact they couldn't assist at all, and had one firmware release a few weeks after the first, and then nothing after that, makes it clear the company isn't very good.
I replaced it with an Asrock, because I wanted DisplayPort (this is another important characteristic of a motherboard, make sure it has the video output that matches your monitor, if you have an existing one you wish to use with it), and no more problems.
So getting a reputable brand is always a good idea.
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Reply to ta152h
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Those that comes to toms will want to know a lot of details, and are willing to learn. But for a beginner that dont know what thg is, just tell them what they must match. like amd cpu with amd board. The rest like raid, chipset, pcie lanes and whatever else comes in later on. Giving too much info in the first place just confuses them even more or drives them away from building their own pc as they think its way too complex, so they go and buy prebuilts.
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Reply to lp231
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lp231 said:
Those that comes to toms will want to know a lot of details, and are willing to learn. But for a beginner that dont know what thg is, just tell them what they must match. like amd cpu with amd board. The rest like raid, chipset, pcie lanes and whatever else comes in later on. Giving too much info in the first place just confuses them even more or drives them away from building their own pc as they think its way too complex, so they go and buy prebuilts.So, I'm open to suggestions.
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Reply to Crashman
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zakaron
October 1, 2014 12:52:44 PM
I remember my first motherboard swap back in '97, I didn't take into consideration the peripherals I owned to match the connector type. I bought a socket 7 board to run a Cyrix P133+ that had an AT connector for the keyboard... well the Pentium 60 board I was replacing had dual PS/2 ports. I already had a serial mouse, but I was out of luck on the keyboard. I had to go back the next day to the computer show at the ExpoMart to track down an AT to PS/2 converter. Lesson learned: always make sure you have the correct hookups for the peripherals you want to use. IE: do you need PS/2, IDE for that old DVD drive, serial (for legacy device), floppy controller if you still use those ancient things, enough USB ports or do you need a USB hub, etc.
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Reply to zakaron
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I think some feature comparison charts or tables could be helpful. Put socket/chipset on the vertical, and feature along the horizontal. My original suggestion ties to the chipset only, and what catatech listed would differentiate motherboards with the same base chipset by listing other distinguishing features.
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Reply to Onus
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zakaron said:
I remember my first motherboard swap back in '97, I didn't take into consideration the peripherals I owned to match the connector type. I bought a socket 7 board to run a Cyrix P133+ that had an AT connector for the keyboard... well the Pentium 60 board I was replacing had dual PS/2 ports. I already had a serial mouse, but I was out of luck on the keyboard. I had to go back the next day to the computer show at the ExpoMart to track down an AT to PS/2 converter. Lesson learned: always make sure you have the correct hookups for the peripherals you want to use. IE: do you need PS/2, IDE for that old DVD drive, serial (for legacy device), floppy controller if you still use those ancient things, enough USB ports or do you need a USB hub, etc.-
Reply to Crashman
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kittle
October 1, 2014 1:22:55 PM
Crashman said:
This is our second overhaul since 2006. We plan to release future revisions in more-frequent, smaller steps. And I'd personally like ideas on how to make it easier to read. I might even be able to take some stuff out, but probably not much. More important is probably to make sure all of the information is organized in an easily-read manner. Also, there might be a couple not-too-technical things I could add.So, I'm open to suggestions.
So... some suggestions
Since this article is supposed to be for beginners:
AMD vs Intel -- Need to pick one. why? Pros and cons for both
CPU - Speed, # of cores, hyperthreading. whats good, whats not.. and why? (leave out any overclocking discussions)
RAM - how much? .. what kind? and why?
What chipset do I need/want. And why?
-- note that each point has a "why" component. You seem to have left that out of your article.
(Im leaving out PSU, HDD and GPU)
As noted by @ta152h - the manufacturer of the motherboard matters a lot. Some companies make better boards on average that others. but as with everything there are compromises.. Better companies usually charge more.
next a "how-to" section
- how to make sure the CPU will even FIT the motherboard
- how to make sure the CPU is compatible
- how to pick the right RAM (focus on mainstream compatibility, not overclocking)
- how to make sure the board will fit in my case (or how to pick a case for my motherboard)
- how to pick a good motherboard manufacturer
Lastly - since picking a motherboard usually means the person is building a new system, some basic recommendations would be helpful.
Office/Kitchen system -- no gaming, or VERY light gaming
- lower cost
- high reliability (it wont be replaced anytime soon)
- no overclocking
- onboard graphics (or cheap gpu)
- single HDD: 500gb/1TB HD,
- 4GB ram
- 300-400w PSU
Gaming oriented system
- mid to higher cost
- dedicated GPU (single, no SLI)
- overclocking available, but this is not a beginner subject
- SSD boot drive & mechanical storage drive (2TB+)
- 8GB ram or more
- 650w PSU
Anything beyond that.. and the person in question is not a beginner, so the article does not apply.
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Reply to kittle
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kittle said:
Crashman said:
This is our second overhaul since 2006. We plan to release future revisions in more-frequent, smaller steps. And I'd personally like ideas on how to make it easier to read. I might even be able to take some stuff out, but probably not much. More important is probably to make sure all of the information is organized in an easily-read manner. Also, there might be a couple not-too-technical things I could add.So, I'm open to suggestions.
So... some suggestions
Since this article is supposed to be for beginners:
AMD vs Intel -- Need to pick one. why? Pros and cons for both
CPU - Speed, # of cores, hyperthreading. whats good, whats not.. and why? (leave out any overclocking discussions)
RAM - how much? .. what kind? and why?
What chipset do I need/want. And why?
-- note that each point has a "why" component. You seem to have left that out of your article.
(Im leaving out PSU, HDD and GPU)
As noted by @ta152h - the manufacturer of the motherboard matters a lot. Some companies make better boards on average that others. but as with everything there are compromises.. Better companies usually charge more.
next a "how-to" section
- how to make sure the CPU will even FIT the motherboard
- how to make sure the CPU is compatible
- how to pick the right RAM (focus on mainstream compatibility, not overclocking)
- how to make sure the board will fit in my case (or how to pick a case for my motherboard)
- how to pick a good motherboard manufacturer
Lastly - since picking a motherboard usually means the person is building a new system, some basic recommendations would be helpful.
Office/Kitchen system -- no gaming, or VERY light gaming
- lower cost
- high reliability (it wont be replaced anytime soon)
- no overclocking
- onboard graphics (or cheap gpu)
- single HDD: 500gb/1TB HD,
- 4GB ram
- 300-400w PSU
Gaming oriented system
- mid to higher cost
- dedicated GPU (single, no SLI)
- overclocking available, but this is not a beginner subject
- SSD boot drive & mechanical storage drive (2TB+)
- 8GB ram or more
- 650w PSU
Anything beyond that.. and the person in question is not a beginner, so the article does not apply.
I see what you're saying, but what I think you're really asking for are a CPU guide for beginners, a DRAM guide for beginners, a storage guide for beginners, and more "about you" stuff in the "how to build a computer" guide.
That last thing, maybe an introductory article like "Beginner's Guide To Beginner's Guides: PC Tech 099"
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Reply to Crashman
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No mention of power suppy. Crap sound. the only reason i get 130 us plus motherboards is because the sound some mother boards have snr 90 db.
I don't care if the mother board will fly some high party lan or other things. I never used the ie 1394 plus E-sata...
for now i got only asrock motherboards because sound nice with my edifier and my akg headphone.
I don't care if the mother board will fly some high party lan or other things. I never used the ie 1394 plus E-sata...
for now i got only asrock motherboards because sound nice with my edifier and my akg headphone.
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Reply to Amdlova
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silverblue
October 1, 2014 1:55:25 PM
I like the article I think it will be s great benefit to inexperienced system builders doing their 1st build. I learned all about this stuff by trial and error back in the AT clone days I wish I would have had such a guide back then. That being said I think I would have focused more on the type of systems most new builders would be most likely to try on their 1st build. Mainly ATX and MATX and the the Intel LGA 1150 & AMD AM3+ and FM2+ models. A new builder shouldn't try to build a LGA 2011 system until they have built of few machines and are familiar with all the nuances of assembling a computer Mini-ITX does present it's own unique challenges of proper components and cooling which should be done by experienced builders. I thought it was great to have a graphic showing good air flow thru the case that can help a void all kinds of heating issues. Again a very good job well done.
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Reply to littleleo
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I have a pretty short and straightforward checklist that I use when it's time to buy a new motherboard:
1. Processor going to be used: Intel or AMD?
2. Budget?
3. How much RAM?
4. Form factor - ATX, mATX, mITX?
5. Socket - AM2/3+, FM1/2, LGA 11XX?
For instance my last motherboard purchased last week I answered:
1. Pentium G3258
2. $50
3. 8GB
4. Form factor: Micro ATX
5. Socket: LGA 1150
Based on that I went with the MSI H81M-E33, which was $53 with shipping, and that fit my needs perfectly.
1. Processor going to be used: Intel or AMD?
2. Budget?
3. How much RAM?
4. Form factor - ATX, mATX, mITX?
5. Socket - AM2/3+, FM1/2, LGA 11XX?
For instance my last motherboard purchased last week I answered:
1. Pentium G3258
2. $50
3. 8GB
4. Form factor: Micro ATX
5. Socket: LGA 1150
Based on that I went with the MSI H81M-E33, which was $53 with shipping, and that fit my needs perfectly.
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Reply to g-unit1111
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@Kittle
I think you're heading into full on system component selection, not just mboard. Such a thing would result in a very long article and would be better reserved for a series of articles. That said, I do think there needs to be some consideration about how the different parts will work together ( beside actual platform compatibility. )
@Onus & Crash
Tom, I think Onus is saying you've covered the "what" very well in the details ( and as Meteor said, I think the detailed chipset comparison is very useful, ) but new users could benefit from a "why." Just as you said, those of us that are well-marinated in tech pools sometimes forget what it's like to take that first dip. Why would they care about SATA II vs SATA III and the number of each available? Why would they care about PCIe lanes available? Why would they care about two RAM slots or four? What is a RAID and why would someone a controller for it? Is USB 3.0 good enough for you, or do you want eSATA too?
Here are a few things I'd address "why" when a first-timer is picking a mboard, apart from the obvious CPU and RAM compatibility. Some have already been brought up. Keep in mind I approached this as someone advising a tech-neophyte on his first system build. As such, I'm assuming they aren't asking for a high-end build. I suppose it is possible you could have a power-user with very high and/or specific performance needs that doesn't know how to assemble a computer, but I'm not addressing that corner case.
Size
Not only the dimensions and slot count of ATX vs mATX vs ITX, but why you might want one of the boards over another ( mATX tend to be cheaper and are great if you don't plan on many cards, ITX for absolute smallest machine, etc. ) I'd also address what cards are typical in certain computer use cases. A new user might think they need every slot possible "just in case" they need it in the future only to find three years later they still haven't used any.
I/O Ports
USB - How many ports do you really need? The way I see it, rear ports are for things that plug in once and stay ( printers, scanners, keyboards, etc. ) You shouldn't be constantly reaching around back to swap things out. If you are, you either need a hub ( on the desk or monitor, ) or more front-panel jacks ( case. ) This means you might want to look at internal headers too and whether they'll work with the case you have in mind. Remember that peripherals don't take advantage of USB 3.0 bandwidth so don't freak out too much if you only have two 3.0 ports.
Video - If you're not using a dGPU, does the mboard have the right video jacks for your monitor(s)?
Audio - Don't worry too much about multi-channel audio or fiber optic /digital coax jacks if you're just using some $30 stereo speakers. Fewer audio jacks doesn't necessarily mean poorer audio quality.
Memory Connectivity
Do they need four RAM slots, or will two suffice?
Explain basic difference in speed between SATA II and SATA III. The vast majority of machines can get by with four SATA ports ( really even two for home and office use. ) I'd also explain that having only two SATA III ports and the rest at SATA II is nothing to worry about unless they plan to use nothing but SSDs. What about eSATA? People coming from older machines may not have USB 3.0 capable external drives. Even if they do, eSATA has some advantages since you can boot from it. I'd also explain how eSATA usually shares with one of the internal SATA ports.
Legacy Support
I can see this particularly useful for people upgrading from a very old machine. Do they need old parallel or serial ports for old dongles? Any old PCI cards they still need? ( doubtful, but you never know for sure. ) What about old PATA drives? ( though really any old data should be transferred over to SATA drives. ) I'd explain that older cards and devices in their old machine ( sound cards, drive & network controllers, ) are likely unnecessary to carry over to the new machine since the integrated parts in the mboard are superior to the older tech.
I think you're heading into full on system component selection, not just mboard. Such a thing would result in a very long article and would be better reserved for a series of articles. That said, I do think there needs to be some consideration about how the different parts will work together ( beside actual platform compatibility. )
@Onus & Crash
Tom, I think Onus is saying you've covered the "what" very well in the details ( and as Meteor said, I think the detailed chipset comparison is very useful, ) but new users could benefit from a "why." Just as you said, those of us that are well-marinated in tech pools sometimes forget what it's like to take that first dip. Why would they care about SATA II vs SATA III and the number of each available? Why would they care about PCIe lanes available? Why would they care about two RAM slots or four? What is a RAID and why would someone a controller for it? Is USB 3.0 good enough for you, or do you want eSATA too?
Here are a few things I'd address "why" when a first-timer is picking a mboard, apart from the obvious CPU and RAM compatibility. Some have already been brought up. Keep in mind I approached this as someone advising a tech-neophyte on his first system build. As such, I'm assuming they aren't asking for a high-end build. I suppose it is possible you could have a power-user with very high and/or specific performance needs that doesn't know how to assemble a computer, but I'm not addressing that corner case.
Size
Not only the dimensions and slot count of ATX vs mATX vs ITX, but why you might want one of the boards over another ( mATX tend to be cheaper and are great if you don't plan on many cards, ITX for absolute smallest machine, etc. ) I'd also address what cards are typical in certain computer use cases. A new user might think they need every slot possible "just in case" they need it in the future only to find three years later they still haven't used any.
I/O Ports
USB - How many ports do you really need? The way I see it, rear ports are for things that plug in once and stay ( printers, scanners, keyboards, etc. ) You shouldn't be constantly reaching around back to swap things out. If you are, you either need a hub ( on the desk or monitor, ) or more front-panel jacks ( case. ) This means you might want to look at internal headers too and whether they'll work with the case you have in mind. Remember that peripherals don't take advantage of USB 3.0 bandwidth so don't freak out too much if you only have two 3.0 ports.
Video - If you're not using a dGPU, does the mboard have the right video jacks for your monitor(s)?
Audio - Don't worry too much about multi-channel audio or fiber optic /digital coax jacks if you're just using some $30 stereo speakers. Fewer audio jacks doesn't necessarily mean poorer audio quality.
Memory Connectivity
Do they need four RAM slots, or will two suffice?
Explain basic difference in speed between SATA II and SATA III. The vast majority of machines can get by with four SATA ports ( really even two for home and office use. ) I'd also explain that having only two SATA III ports and the rest at SATA II is nothing to worry about unless they plan to use nothing but SSDs. What about eSATA? People coming from older machines may not have USB 3.0 capable external drives. Even if they do, eSATA has some advantages since you can boot from it. I'd also explain how eSATA usually shares with one of the internal SATA ports.
Legacy Support
I can see this particularly useful for people upgrading from a very old machine. Do they need old parallel or serial ports for old dongles? Any old PCI cards they still need? ( doubtful, but you never know for sure. ) What about old PATA drives? ( though really any old data should be transferred over to SATA drives. ) I'd explain that older cards and devices in their old machine ( sound cards, drive & network controllers, ) are likely unnecessary to carry over to the new machine since the integrated parts in the mboard are superior to the older tech.
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Reply to RedJaron
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Formata
October 1, 2014 3:44:42 PM
GoucaX
October 1, 2014 5:32:57 PM
Drejeck
October 1, 2014 6:08:39 PM
lanceton
October 1, 2014 9:25:44 PM
I don't think anyone who have read this article would have developed a slightly better idea on how to choose a motherboard... the information you've included is not 'practical' at all, it's an article for elementary school kids, not PC DIY beginners.
you should begin by doing a cost break down, explain how much each component costs and then go on to explain what each component does and how practical they are in different environments
by doing so people would understand why certain motherboard models could be so much more expensive compared to others, and how much extra real life performance they're getting when buying a more expensive motherboard
you should begin by doing a cost break down, explain how much each component costs and then go on to explain what each component does and how practical they are in different environments
by doing so people would understand why certain motherboard models could be so much more expensive compared to others, and how much extra real life performance they're getting when buying a more expensive motherboard
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Reply to lanceton
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Drejeck
October 1, 2014 10:41:28 PM
Integrated soundcard, even ALC1150, cannot fight back a 2010 Audigy 2, imagine a Xonar Essence ST.
Audio is really important for gaming experience. People underestimate it. They buy crappy plastic headset from non-audiophile brands.
I'm buying an Impact VII as soon as broadwell T chips show up. It has a 1150 based soundcard, the so called, Supreme FX II, I hope it's good because I have only one Pci slot and that's for my KFA2 750Ti
Audio is really important for gaming experience. People underestimate it. They buy crappy plastic headset from non-audiophile brands.
I'm buying an Impact VII as soon as broadwell T chips show up. It has a 1150 based soundcard, the so called, Supreme FX II, I hope it's good because I have only one Pci slot and that's for my KFA2 750Ti
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Reply to Drejeck
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g00ey
October 3, 2014 6:44:29 AM
This is easy, buy a motherboard with as many full-length PCIe slots as possible and with as many PCIe lanes as possible. Given the desired form-factor of course. That way expandability will be no problems. Motherboards with _real_ lanes are probably better than those with PCIe extender/multiplexer circuits so I would hesitate a bit about those.
Make sure that these motherboards have as few half-assed onboard hardware (such as a shitty JMicron SATA controller) as possible. There are a few exceptions though; if the network controller is Intel or the extra hard drive controller is LSI (or Intel although they don't make SAS/SATA controller theses days) then it's good.
Make sure that the manufacturer has a good track record and a good reputation. Reviews and troubleshooting discussions on forums may give a clue as to how good and reliable a given motherboard is. Check for good warranty policies, a good and genuine (you know without those weird tear-and-wear clauses or other clauses that can wriggle the manufacturer out of responsibility) warranty means that the manufacturer really believes in his products.
Manufacturers such as MSI have had a lot of problems with the hardware in the past, it would have been good if they posted a followup on how they have dealt with those problems. I'm truly missing a good dialogue between the manufacturers and the end-users here.
Make sure that these motherboards have as few half-assed onboard hardware (such as a shitty JMicron SATA controller) as possible. There are a few exceptions though; if the network controller is Intel or the extra hard drive controller is LSI (or Intel although they don't make SAS/SATA controller theses days) then it's good.
Make sure that the manufacturer has a good track record and a good reputation. Reviews and troubleshooting discussions on forums may give a clue as to how good and reliable a given motherboard is. Check for good warranty policies, a good and genuine (you know without those weird tear-and-wear clauses or other clauses that can wriggle the manufacturer out of responsibility) warranty means that the manufacturer really believes in his products.
Manufacturers such as MSI have had a lot of problems with the hardware in the past, it would have been good if they posted a followup on how they have dealt with those problems. I'm truly missing a good dialogue between the manufacturers and the end-users here.
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Dying_Jester
October 3, 2014 8:10:35 AM
Even with all this laid out in front of me I didn't get much of an understanding. This article needs to be made into a video with someone pointing to each part as they are talked about, probably with with extra hardware on hand to show the viewer as it is brought up in the video.
This is all coming from someone who this article is focused on. I'm in the process of getting parts for my first PC. I have the motherboard and CPU. But I already know that even after I get all the parts I need I'll be searching the web for how to articles and videos of risk sitting there for hours not knowing what to do or risking damage to the parts I have.
This is all coming from someone who this article is focused on. I'm in the process of getting parts for my first PC. I have the motherboard and CPU. But I already know that even after I get all the parts I need I'll be searching the web for how to articles and videos of risk sitting there for hours not knowing what to do or risking damage to the parts I have.
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Dying_Jester said:
Even with all this laid out in front of me I didn't get much of an understanding. This article needs to be made into a video with someone pointing to each part as they are talked about, probably with with extra hardware on hand to show the viewer as it is brought up in the video. This is all coming from someone who this article is focused on. I'm in the process of getting parts for my first PC. I have the motherboard and CPU. But I already know that even after I get all the parts I need I'll be searching the web for how to articles and videos of risk sitting there for hours not knowing what to do or risking damage to the parts I have.
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/build-your-own-pc,2...
The motherboard part you just read is a companion piece. We've also been discussing an article on PC basics for people who aren't ready to build.
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These sort of articles are good to have around in order to jump start some details you might have missed out along the way. We may be professionals but as Thomas points we are all capable of making mistakes.
Thanks for providing a wealth of info in respect to something most newcomers will take as a critical choice when hunting for a motherboard. Hopefully this will narrow down the confusion as the basics have been cleared.
Sound will be subjective and if you noticed you are talking about onboard sound where it is always considered as a noisy environment. Filtration of the environment often are expensive to implement but with the progression of tech you now have more access to features previously seen on dedicated sound cards.
When going through a basics tutorial, you will need to water some points down to make it digestible to the newcomer interested in DIY building.
Thanks for providing a wealth of info in respect to something most newcomers will take as a critical choice when hunting for a motherboard. Hopefully this will narrow down the confusion as the basics have been cleared.
Sound will be subjective and if you noticed you are talking about onboard sound where it is always considered as a noisy environment. Filtration of the environment often are expensive to implement but with the progression of tech you now have more access to features previously seen on dedicated sound cards.
When going through a basics tutorial, you will need to water some points down to make it digestible to the newcomer interested in DIY building.
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arferdaley
October 6, 2014 3:45:37 PM
jonnyyyl
October 6, 2014 8:33:04 PM
This is really really useful stuff.
I self taught from reading forums and clips. Over the years, I keep finding myself having to go back and forth the basics because gaps exists! I have spent a lot of time trying to find articles like these.
Thank you for this article. Likewise, I'd be grateful if articles on CPU architecture, SSD/HDD and components, how to interpret numbers etc.
Thanks again for this.
I self taught from reading forums and clips. Over the years, I keep finding myself having to go back and forth the basics because gaps exists! I have spent a lot of time trying to find articles like these.
Thank you for this article. Likewise, I'd be grateful if articles on CPU architecture, SSD/HDD and components, how to interpret numbers etc.
Thanks again for this.
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shanky887614
October 8, 2014 11:39:53 PM
nesdave
October 12, 2014 7:08:47 PM
I was recently looking for a CPU combo for VM and I wanted it on a budget. I went to a retailer who appeared to know something on the subject and he suggested the wrong combination. My point is, do your own research. If someone offers a sulution, research it until you are satisfied it will get the job done. Alternatively, have deep pockets and lots of time.
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ncotton100
October 18, 2014 6:36:55 PM
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