Monitor not getting input when starting pc and sometimes loosing it while its running

[MrHeolsen]

So i just got a new motherboard, new ram and new cpu.

i reformated and got the new parts in and it was running fine

however i've had a few cases of the screen not getting a signal when turning on the pc both from being completely turned off and just from sleep mode. (cpu and gpu fans dont run when this happens)

most of the times its happened i've turned the pc off and on a few times to no avail and then once i open up the side of the pc and tighten a few different cables on the motherboard (that by looks of it were not loose at all weirdly) and then it works on next start up (the cables are the ones from the case and a few psu ones)

however now theres been monitor problems three times WHILE the pc was running

first time i was opening a game while having a stream on the other monitor and it just lost input and i lost all sounds as well and i had to restart the pc a few times

second time also happened while opening a game and this time i had spotify on the other monitor then both monitors became a kinda yellow/orange color (similar to my background)
music from spotify was still playing this time and i then had to manually restart

third time happened withing 10 to 20 minutes of the second and this time it went yellow again while i was just searching something on the windows search bar
this time however the pc restarted on its own after a few seconds (i dont know if its important to note but it also had to install a small update when restarting)

i've also made sure that its not a heat issue as parts never get too hot when im playing games

my limited knowledge and searching leads to believe its either a gpu or psu problem but i dont know nearly enough to know wether those assumptions make the least bit of sense

i'll also note that both my gpu and psu are the oldest parts in the pc currently
gpu being about 3 years old
and psu atleast being older than the gpu

Specs:
motherboard: asus prime Z270-P
ram: corsair vengeance DDR4 2X8GB 3000MHz
cpu: intel core i7 - 6700k
gpu: asus geforce gtx 970 strix
psu: energon 750W
kingston SSD 120GB
seagate HDD 2TB

 

[geofelt]

I might replace the psu.
This incident is not reassuring:
https://forums.evga.com/my-PSU-just-blew-energon-750w-m801039.aspx

 

[MrHeolsen]

I might replace the psu.
This incident is not reassuring:
https://forums.evga.com/my-PSU-just-blew-energon-750w-m801039.aspx

so my psu is the cheaped out kinda of psu then? if so i'll get around to getting a proper one

 

[MrHeolsen]

I might replace the psu.
This incident is not reassuring:
https://forums.evga.com/my-PSU-just-blew-energon-750w-m801039.aspx

quickly looking around on power supplys i've been looking at the corsair rm750x 750w which is a fully modular psu
and would cost about 114 euros over here (without counting the money for getting it sent)

alternatively i've also looked at the corsair tx750m psu which looks to be a semi-modular psu
and would cost about 87 euros over here (also not counting money for getting it sent)

now since they're both corsair i should be fine no matter which i choose (from what i understand atleast) but i wonder if the extra modularity and such on the rm750x is something i should consider even with the higher price?

its likely i'll buy the new psu within a few days as the pc running well is pretty important to me (+ of course thats its not a good idea to run with a bad psu)

i will also keep usage of the pc minimal untill i get the new psu

 

[doctor8ball]

You should feel the temperature of the PSU exhaust port with your hand, if its really hot air blowing out the PSU vent then its struggling to power the components. It's a good way of deremining stress without the need to go inside and use voltage meters etc.
I notice your PSU has a max 12v or 46A if this is the model you have:
https://www.inter-tech.de/en/products/psu/atx/eps-750
Add up all your system power amp requirements.

 

[MrHeolsen]

You should feel the temperature of the PSU exhaust port with your hand, if its really hot air blowing out the PSU vent then its struggling to power the components. It's a good way of deremining stress without the need to go inside and use voltage meters etc.
I notice your PSU has a max 12v or 46A if this is the model you have:
https://www.inter-tech.de/en/products/psu/atx/eps-750
Add up all your system power amp requirements.

https://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator this site said it should be about 350W and then recommended this psu https://www.amazon.de/dp/B018WJMXKA/?SubscriptionId=AKIAJCMZ7EUWHXU3XRZQ&tag=xov-de-21&linkCode=xm2

felt around the psu and the air coming out seemed only somewhat lukewarm

 

[geofelt]

You are going to use most of the power leads anyway.
Modular of not should have no bearing on functionality.
If anything, non modular should be simpler.

I have no problem overprovisioning a PSU a bit. Say 20%.
It will allow for a stronger future graphics card upgrade.
It will run cooler, quieter, and more efficiently in the middle third of it's range.
A PSU will only use the wattage demanded of it, regardless of it's max capability.

GTX970 needs about 500w, something in the 520-750w range would be good.

If you have other options, there are tiered lists such as this:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.html

Not yet on the list is the new Seasonic focus line which is rated 9.8/10 by jonnyguru.

 

[MrHeolsen]

You are going to use most of the power leads anyway.
Modular of not should have no bearing on functionality.
If anything, non modular should be simpler.

I have no problem overprovisioning a PSU a bit. Say 20%.
It will allow for a stronger future graphics card upgrade.
It will run cooler, quieter, and more efficiently in the middle third of it's range.
A PSU will only use the wattage demanded of it, regardless of it's max capability.

GTX970 needs about 500w, something in the 520-750w range would be good.

If you have other options, there are tiered lists such as this:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.html

Not yet on the list is the new Seasonic focus line which is rated 9.8/10 by jonnyguru.

should i just go ahead then and get a new (and proper) psu then?

can i be certain the psu is the one causing the problem and not something like the graphics card?

it happened again since posting btw while i was watching a video and this time it went bright pink on one monitor and grey on the other (dont know if that matters)

 

[geofelt]

Unfortunately, the only way to identify problems in a pc is by replacing parts.

Can you test using integrated graphics?
If you still fail, the graphics card is probably good.
and the culprit is likely the psu.
Or, better yet, can you test with an equally strong good graphics card?

The psu is, perhaps the most likely source of your instability.
Over time, a psu can age and lose capability.
First, see if you can borrow a known good psu to test with.
If not, buy a quality psu from a shop with a good return policy and minimal restocking fee. Perhaps 15%.
Since the quality of your current psu is suspect, I might buy a good replacement anyway.

 

[MrHeolsen]

Unfortunately, the only way to identify problems in a pc is by replacing parts.

Can you test using integrated graphics?
If you still fail, the graphics card is probably good.
and the culprit is likely the psu.
Or, better yet, can you test with an equally strong good graphics card?

The psu is, perhaps the most likely source of your instability.
Over time, a psu can age and lose capability.
First, see if you can borrow a known good psu to test with.
If not, buy a quality psu from a shop with a good return policy and minimal restocking fee. Perhaps 15%.
Since the quality of your current psu is suspect, I might buy a good replacement anyway.

only thing i have lying around is an older gtx 650 - e which probably wont run games pretty well

but since it has happened twice without me gaming it should work fine to test if theres any problem right?

 

[MrHeolsen]

i tried putting the other graphics card in and ran with the pc with it for a little while and it happened again so that should rule out the graphics card being the problem completely

 

[geofelt]

i tried putting the other graphics card in and ran with the pc with it for a little while and it happened again so that should rule out the graphics card being the problem completely

I would think so.
Time for a new PSU, I think.

 

[doctor8ball]

i tried putting the other graphics card in and ran with the pc with it for a little while and it happened again so that should rule out the graphics card being the problem completely

energon 750W are apparently budget type of PSUs which are not very reputable and fail quickly.
Get a good Corsair, Antec or Coolermaster PSU (for example), the higher the wattage your can afford the better.
Remember its just not about watts, its about amps too. Cheap PSUs manufacturers love to advertise high wattage units but the offset is poor amps and qaulity components which result in exactly what you describe.

Also consider the Bronze, Silver, Gold, Platinum and Titanium efficiency rating:
80 PLUS represents an organization that certifies PSUs that have over 80 percent efficiency at 10, 20, 50 and 100 percent of their maximum rated load, and a power factor of 0.9 or greater at 100 percent load. For Bronze, Silver and Gold certifications, the power factor must be 0.9 or greater on all three load levels. Additionally, the newest Platinum level requires 0.95 or better power factor for servers.

 

[geofelt]

If you are in the market for a new psu, here are some thoughts:

1. Buy the capacity you need and then some.
Here is a link to what you need; it depends on the graphics configuration:
http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page362.htm

I have no problem overprovisioning a PSU a bit. Say 20%.
It will allow for a stronger future graphics card upgrade.
It will run cooler, quieter, and more efficiently in the middle third of it's range.
A PSU will only use the wattage demanded of it, regardless of it's max capability.

2. Buy only a quality psu. Try to buy a tier 1 or 2 unit from a list such as this:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.html
Seasonic is generally very good.

A cheap PSU will be made of substandard components. It will not have safety and overload protections.
If it fails under load, it can destroy anything it is connected to.
It will deliver advertised power only at room temperatures, not at higher temperatures found when installed in a case.
The wattage will be delivered on the 3 and 5v rails, not on the 12v rails where modern parts
like the CPU and Graphics cards need it. What power is delivered may fluctuate and cause instability
issues that are hard to diagnose.
The fan will need to spin up higher to cool it, making it noisy.
A cheap PSU can become very expensive. Do not buy one.

3. It is unlikely that the price premium paid for gold rating will ever be returned to you in electricity cost savings.
There IS value in higher efficiency in that the cooling fan will need to run less and the unit will generally be quieter

4. Modular costs more. Consider that you are likely to be using most of the power leads regardless. There will normally be a decent place to store unused leads away and out if sight or the cooling airstream. Also, if you have a length restriction, the leads that plug into a modular psu will not bend as much as a fixed attachment consequently taking more room, not less.