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Started by 4Ryan6 | | 298 answers
This thread is sharing information with you regarding Peltier/TEC CPU cooling, it is to bring those interested, or curious regarding this type of cooling, up to date on it’s cooling possibilities, and progress, and the setup pictured below is currently in use and fully operational.
Caution: Peltier cooling will allow you to go below ambient, depending on what your desires and goals are and how many peltiers you run, you can even go below 0c, it is possible using anti-freeze coolant. My initial goal was to be able to run below ambient just above the condensation forming point so motherboard insulation does not come into play. You can safely enjoy about a 13c below ambient without any condensation worries at all, but you take full responsibility with what you do with this information.
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If you’re interested in following the full journey of how this all came to be, it is in the Exploring Below Ambient Water Cooling thread.
What does this type water cooling allow:
I’m sure the first question would be why would anyone be interested in this type of cooling in the first place, and if you’re 100% satisfied with your present water cooling setups load temperatures, you won’t be. The main why is, it can run load temperatures, lower than the mass majority of your ambient reliant CPU big air coolers, CLC Coolers, Standard and Custom water cooling loop idle temperatures.
These comparative tests below were run with my 2500K overclocked to 4500mhz @ 1.325v with one 580GTX at 23c ambient.
The 4 core temperatures were averaged together for one total score, and was run on WinXP 32bit.
Air Cooling;
Noctua NH-D14, Idle = 32.75c, Load = 54.75c
Thermalright 120 Extreme 2 fans in push/pull, Idle = 32c, Load = 51.75c
Standard Water Cooling Closed Loop;
XSPC Rasa RS240 kit, Idle = 30.75c, Load = 50c
XSPC Rasa with a Black Ice 240 Radiator, Idle = 30.25c, Load = 48.75c
Tests below run with a 2700K with hyper threading disabled, which comparatively temperature wise is equal to a 2500K, all the other test parameters are the same and conducted on the same motherboard.
TEC/Peltier Water Cooling
Water Temp. is 12c which is also, 12c below ambient room temperature, (zero condensation), Idle = 14c, Load = 31.25c
Water Temp. is 9c which is, 15c below ambient room temperature, (zero condensation), Idle = 12c, Load = 28.5c
2700K @ 4500mhz Win7 64bit, Intel Burn Test
2700K @ 5300mhz Win7 64bit, Intel Burn Test
3770K @ 5000mhz Win7 64bit, Intel Burn Test
Peltier information:
In my own words, The peltier is a simple device, you run electricity through it and the reaction between the two dissimilar metals results in one side getting hot and the other side getting cold, if you do not cool the hot side it gets too hot, overheats, and burns up, simple as that. The Peltiers cold side thermal output can be harnessed and used. In this case the cold side is being used to chill water flowing through a modified water block and storing that chilled water in an insulated reservoir, which is then used to cool a CPU.
The peltier itself is essentially a miniature freezer/heater with no moving parts to break down, the key is discovering how to use what it can do, to your advantage. presently the hot side exhaust is being used to heat my office and in the winter it does a very good job of it, in the summer I have to run my office AC anyway so it counters the added room heat from the TEC assembly.
More detailed peltier information, credit to xtremesystems.org.
When the CPU (overclocking), cooling community first put the peltier into operation it was directly mounted on the CPU usually water cooling the hot side, which brought unpleasant side effects requiring motherboard insulation to keep from shorting out components from the ice forming around and on the backside of the motherboard socket.
Ice occurs when the surface temperature is cold enough to freeze the moisture in the air, the more humidity in the air the worse it would be.
Comparatively those earlier CPU peltiers were only a small percentage of the size of the peltier I am using in this project, a Potted Peltier, measuring 50mm x 50mm x 3.10mm, wattage = 226w ~ 245w, amperage = 26a max, voltage = 12vdc ~ 15.4vdc, with a maximum operating temperature of 125c.
Note: Potted means insulated, some peltiers are not insulated at all and really are not suitable for this type of cooling, you would want to acquire a potted peltier.
Many at Overclock.net use direct to CPU mounting methods today and if you're interested in that type TEC application you can research there.
This thread is totally about using the Peltier/TEC assembly to replace the ambient limited radiator cooling, with a chilled water cooling solution allowing going below ambient room temperature.
It would have been nice to have received some kind of instructions with the peltier, at least which side produced hot and which side cold, I had to use a 1.5v battery to determine that, I guess they figure if you buy something like this in the first place, you should be smart enough to figure out how to use it, anyway still, instructions would have been nice.
When energized this peltier and power supply pulls 277w by itself, so whatever total load you are running this is an added load the entire time it's energized. Depending on the voltage the load temperature of the peltier, (and load temperature is when voltage is applied period!), and it varies from spec'd model to spec'd model.
Logically it would seem the best solution would be to keep the hot side as cold as possible, but that's not the case, you have to allow the hot side to get hot for the cold side to get cold, but since we're only talking a approximately 1/8th inch thick plating, that's a very close distance to play the hot/cold balancing act.
Some of what needs to be shared is the peltiers what I call weirdness, I originally thought the cooler I kept the hot side the cooler the cold side would be, however the hot side has to get hot for the cold side to get cold, it is a perfect example of, "For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction.".
There was quite a bit of testing and fan changing to get the peltier to run at it's optimum cooling side capability, at one point I actually had the hot side too cool and it was not performing as expected, it's been a learning experience that's for sure.
Simple discovery the hot side can override the cold sides effectiveness but news flash the opposite can also happen, the cold side getting too cold, can override the hot sides effectiveness,
So you're after a balancing act of hot and cold to get what you're after, the true key to this things performance is give it the heat range it operates best within or sweetspot, and it will give you the results you're looking for. It needs to be in the mid range of it's capabilities, so it's hot enough to deliver the cooling performance, but far enough away from it's limitations to keep from burning it out.
Caution: Peltier cooling will allow you to go below ambient, depending on what your desires and goals are and how many peltiers you run, you can even go below 0c, it is possible using anti-freeze coolant. My initial goal was to be able to run below ambient just above the condensation forming point so motherboard insulation does not come into play. You can safely enjoy about a 13c below ambient without any condensation worries at all, but you take full responsibility with what you do with this information.








If you’re interested in following the full journey of how this all came to be, it is in the Exploring Below Ambient Water Cooling thread.
What does this type water cooling allow:
I’m sure the first question would be why would anyone be interested in this type of cooling in the first place, and if you’re 100% satisfied with your present water cooling setups load temperatures, you won’t be. The main why is, it can run load temperatures, lower than the mass majority of your ambient reliant CPU big air coolers, CLC Coolers, Standard and Custom water cooling loop idle temperatures.
These comparative tests below were run with my 2500K overclocked to 4500mhz @ 1.325v with one 580GTX at 23c ambient.
The 4 core temperatures were averaged together for one total score, and was run on WinXP 32bit.
Air Cooling;
Noctua NH-D14, Idle = 32.75c, Load = 54.75c
Thermalright 120 Extreme 2 fans in push/pull, Idle = 32c, Load = 51.75c
Standard Water Cooling Closed Loop;
XSPC Rasa RS240 kit, Idle = 30.75c, Load = 50c
XSPC Rasa with a Black Ice 240 Radiator, Idle = 30.25c, Load = 48.75c
Tests below run with a 2700K with hyper threading disabled, which comparatively temperature wise is equal to a 2500K, all the other test parameters are the same and conducted on the same motherboard.
TEC/Peltier Water Cooling
Water Temp. is 12c which is also, 12c below ambient room temperature, (zero condensation), Idle = 14c, Load = 31.25c
Water Temp. is 9c which is, 15c below ambient room temperature, (zero condensation), Idle = 12c, Load = 28.5c
2700K @ 4500mhz Win7 64bit, Intel Burn Test
2700K @ 5300mhz Win7 64bit, Intel Burn Test
3770K @ 5000mhz Win7 64bit, Intel Burn Test
Peltier information:
In my own words, The peltier is a simple device, you run electricity through it and the reaction between the two dissimilar metals results in one side getting hot and the other side getting cold, if you do not cool the hot side it gets too hot, overheats, and burns up, simple as that. The Peltiers cold side thermal output can be harnessed and used. In this case the cold side is being used to chill water flowing through a modified water block and storing that chilled water in an insulated reservoir, which is then used to cool a CPU.
The peltier itself is essentially a miniature freezer/heater with no moving parts to break down, the key is discovering how to use what it can do, to your advantage. presently the hot side exhaust is being used to heat my office and in the winter it does a very good job of it, in the summer I have to run my office AC anyway so it counters the added room heat from the TEC assembly.
More detailed peltier information, credit to xtremesystems.org.
When the CPU (overclocking), cooling community first put the peltier into operation it was directly mounted on the CPU usually water cooling the hot side, which brought unpleasant side effects requiring motherboard insulation to keep from shorting out components from the ice forming around and on the backside of the motherboard socket.
Ice occurs when the surface temperature is cold enough to freeze the moisture in the air, the more humidity in the air the worse it would be.
Comparatively those earlier CPU peltiers were only a small percentage of the size of the peltier I am using in this project, a Potted Peltier, measuring 50mm x 50mm x 3.10mm, wattage = 226w ~ 245w, amperage = 26a max, voltage = 12vdc ~ 15.4vdc, with a maximum operating temperature of 125c.
Note: Potted means insulated, some peltiers are not insulated at all and really are not suitable for this type of cooling, you would want to acquire a potted peltier.
Many at Overclock.net use direct to CPU mounting methods today and if you're interested in that type TEC application you can research there.
This thread is totally about using the Peltier/TEC assembly to replace the ambient limited radiator cooling, with a chilled water cooling solution allowing going below ambient room temperature.
It would have been nice to have received some kind of instructions with the peltier, at least which side produced hot and which side cold, I had to use a 1.5v battery to determine that, I guess they figure if you buy something like this in the first place, you should be smart enough to figure out how to use it, anyway still, instructions would have been nice.
When energized this peltier and power supply pulls 277w by itself, so whatever total load you are running this is an added load the entire time it's energized. Depending on the voltage the load temperature of the peltier, (and load temperature is when voltage is applied period!), and it varies from spec'd model to spec'd model.
Logically it would seem the best solution would be to keep the hot side as cold as possible, but that's not the case, you have to allow the hot side to get hot for the cold side to get cold, but since we're only talking a approximately 1/8th inch thick plating, that's a very close distance to play the hot/cold balancing act.
Some of what needs to be shared is the peltiers what I call weirdness, I originally thought the cooler I kept the hot side the cooler the cold side would be, however the hot side has to get hot for the cold side to get cold, it is a perfect example of, "For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction.".
There was quite a bit of testing and fan changing to get the peltier to run at it's optimum cooling side capability, at one point I actually had the hot side too cool and it was not performing as expected, it's been a learning experience that's for sure.
Simple discovery the hot side can override the cold sides effectiveness but news flash the opposite can also happen, the cold side getting too cold, can override the hot sides effectiveness,
So you're after a balancing act of hot and cold to get what you're after, the true key to this things performance is give it the heat range it operates best within or sweetspot, and it will give you the results you're looking for. It needs to be in the mid range of it's capabilities, so it's hot enough to deliver the cooling performance, but far enough away from it's limitations to keep from burning it out.
CustomBuilt said:
I currently run a stock 690 in my rig. I bought it soon after it released for 999$. I had no plans on getting another because that 4th GPU would be of no use 90% of the time and I can't justify the price/performance ratio. However, I just bought a second 690 from a friend who gave me a deal I COULD NOT RESIST. His 690 was the same model I already have and it is already fitted with a XSPC water block. He offered the card, water block and alphacool rad to me for 350$ (That's not a typo) I told him I would take it but I just need to see it in action first. He launched Furmark which is very heat intensive and ran it for about 15 minutes. Temps never exceeded 40° so I figure I will atleast try both cards on that rad and see how it goes before I go spending more cash.Keep in mind the lithography of a 580 and 690 are quite different. Fermi 40nm vs. Kepler 28nm. If I remember right, the 580 was known to run quite hot?
350 bucks! YES!
What a deal!
I still think you'll be short on rad space.
CustomBuilt
October 13, 2014 3:26:21 PM
I currently run a stock 690 in my rig. I bought it soon after it released for 999$. I had no plans on getting another because that 4th GPU would be of no use 90% of the time and I can't justify the price/performance ratio. However, I just bought a second 690 from a friend who gave me a deal I COULD NOT RESIST. His 690 was the same model I already have and it is already fitted with a XSPC water block. He offered the card, water block and alphacool rad to me for 350$ (That's not a typo) I told him I would take it but I just need to see it in action first. He launched Furmark which is very heat intensive and ran it for about 15 minutes. Temps never exceeded 40° so I figure I will atleast try both cards on that rad and see how it goes before I go spending more cash.
Keep in mind the lithography of a 580 and 690 are quite different. Fermi 40nm vs. Kepler 28nm. If I remember right, the 580 was known to run quite hot?
Keep in mind the lithography of a 580 and 690 are quite different. Fermi 40nm vs. Kepler 28nm. If I remember right, the 580 was known to run quite hot?
I'm not sure you've planned enough radiator for 2 GTX690s those are dual GPU cards, you might better rethink your radiator cooling field for your GPUs?
When I was running 2 580GTX I was running 2 radiators a Black Ice 240 and a Black Ice 360 and they were sufficient, for the 2 single core cards, but with you running 2 dual core cards?
When I was running 2 580GTX I was running 2 radiators a Black Ice 240 and a Black Ice 360 and they were sufficient, for the 2 single core cards, but with you running 2 dual core cards?
CustomBuilt
October 12, 2014 5:56:02 PM
Thank You for the extender block advice. I have ordered it.
"Nice work so far, I'm getting excited for you!
"
Me too! I'm like a 10 year old kid on Christmas eve, yet I'm much older than that : )
Speaking of Christmas, this build should be done shortly after that. Once completed, I will post temps, benchmarks and more pics. The complete system specs will be as follows.
CASE: Lian-Li PC-A70F
PSU: Corsair AX1200i
CPU: 3970x
MB: ASUS Sabertooth X79
MEM: 16gb G-Skill Ripjaws 1866 @ 8-9-9-24
SSD: 2x Samsung 256gb 850 pro's in raid 0
HDD: WD Black SATAIII 1TB
SOUND: Creative Sound Blaster Z
GPU's: 2x GTX 690's
DVD-RW: Plextor
Blu-Ray: LG
MONITOR: BenQ XL2420T 120hz.
KEYBOARD: Logitech G510
MOUSE: Logitech G700
SPEAKERS: Logitech Z906 5.1 500 watt
OS: Win7 Pro x64
CPU WB: EK Supremacy EVO plexi
GPU WB's: XSPC Razor
MOSFET WB: Alphacool
RAD: Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper Dual 140mm Radiator
RES: Alphacool Lighttower
PUMPS: 2x D5's
FANS: Cougar CFD14HBB
TUBING: PETG 3/8x1/2
FITTINGS: Monsoon Economy
"Nice work so far, I'm getting excited for you!
"Me too! I'm like a 10 year old kid on Christmas eve, yet I'm much older than that : )
Speaking of Christmas, this build should be done shortly after that. Once completed, I will post temps, benchmarks and more pics. The complete system specs will be as follows.
CASE: Lian-Li PC-A70F
PSU: Corsair AX1200i
CPU: 3970x
MB: ASUS Sabertooth X79
MEM: 16gb G-Skill Ripjaws 1866 @ 8-9-9-24
SSD: 2x Samsung 256gb 850 pro's in raid 0
HDD: WD Black SATAIII 1TB
SOUND: Creative Sound Blaster Z
GPU's: 2x GTX 690's
DVD-RW: Plextor
Blu-Ray: LG
MONITOR: BenQ XL2420T 120hz.
KEYBOARD: Logitech G510
MOUSE: Logitech G700
SPEAKERS: Logitech Z906 5.1 500 watt
OS: Win7 Pro x64
CPU WB: EK Supremacy EVO plexi
GPU WB's: XSPC Razor
MOSFET WB: Alphacool
RAD: Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper Dual 140mm Radiator
RES: Alphacool Lighttower
PUMPS: 2x D5's
FANS: Cougar CFD14HBB
TUBING: PETG 3/8x1/2
FITTINGS: Monsoon Economy
For the hot side you may need to consider adding a 2" x 2" cold plate extender to the hot side to step the 3" x 3" size closer to the Noctua Base dimension.
The Noctua base is going to get lost in the middle of the 3" x 3" plate, you need something to kinda bridge the outer area that won't be covered to transfer the heat to the Noctua base.
http://www.shop.customthermoelectric.com/Cold-Plate-Extender-Block-20-x-20-x-025-CP-20-20-AL-02.htm
Nice work so far, I'm getting excited for you!
My next build will be all about aesthetics and getting everything inside one case, including the Watercool MO-RA3 radiator cooling my graphics, but that's not going to happen until after Christmas this year as after that point the system will be crossing the 2nd year of successful operation. Mine may not be the most eye pleasing setup, I know that, but it all started as an experiment and has gone through numerous changes to get to the point it is at now. I think your goals are definitely reachable for the sub ambient water and I am looking forward to seeing your finished results and what it does for you!
The Noctua base is going to get lost in the middle of the 3" x 3" plate, you need something to kinda bridge the outer area that won't be covered to transfer the heat to the Noctua base.
http://www.shop.customthermoelectric.com/Cold-Plate-Extender-Block-20-x-20-x-025-CP-20-20-AL-02.htm
Nice work so far, I'm getting excited for you!
Quote:
This Lian-Li case also has room for two power supply units. One at the top and one at the bottom. I am a PC builder who is concerned with aesthetics and therefore will not be covering up my acrylic water lines with insulation. Only one line will be insulated and that will be the one from water block to insulated reservoir. Please keep in mind that my goals differ from yours in that, I am only wanting to achieve "better than water alone" temps, Somewhere between ambient watercooling and sub-ambient and I will be happy. If I achieve sub ambient with this setup, then im just that much happier. I believe that with this large of a TEC and this style of "zig zag water flow" water block, my goals are within reason. Your thoughts?My next build will be all about aesthetics and getting everything inside one case, including the Watercool MO-RA3 radiator cooling my graphics, but that's not going to happen until after Christmas this year as after that point the system will be crossing the 2nd year of successful operation. Mine may not be the most eye pleasing setup, I know that, but it all started as an experiment and has gone through numerous changes to get to the point it is at now. I think your goals are definitely reachable for the sub ambient water and I am looking forward to seeing your finished results and what it does for you!
CustomBuilt
October 11, 2014 5:55:18 PM
CustomBuilt
October 11, 2014 5:33:45 PM
4Ryan6 said:
CustomBuilt said:
Sorry, I couldn't resist. Hello Ryan, I first off want to say congrats to you on your success with this endeavor! I have been following this thread for several months now while slowly buying parts for my very first water cooled build. I have been a system builder for about 15 years now but have never taken the plunge to water cooling till now. I am still in the process of ordering parts and fabricating parts for my first water/chilled system, which leads me to some questions I have for you about the TEG I am considering buying.
First off I have a 1000watt PS with 70amps on the single 12v rail which will be dedicated to the TEG only.
Secondly, this is the TEG I am considering buying.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/280580259103?_trksid=p2055119.m...
My question to you is: will these two work together in harmony or will one destroy the other? (burnout)
knowing that the theoretical max of the 8pin EPS line is 28amps@336watts, will the TEG rated @ 32amps and 550watts try to draw to much from the power supply and burn it out? or itself?
http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors....
TEG spec @16 volt is 32amp @ 550watt max.
I will be running 12v to the TEG so I should expect a max of 24amp @ 412watt. Is this correct?
412watt being max dissipation?
If you can enlighten me on this, It would be much appreciated.
Thank You.
Your 12v amperage estimation of 24a looks right to me and the 412w wattage is very close as well.
To power it the power supply you have is plenty capable very close to mine.
Wiring wise to keep from overloading the cabling I used the 8 pin M/B connector which is 14g wire, consisting of 4 12v yellow positive and 4 black 12v ground, I combined 2 of the yellow for the positive lead wire to TEC #1 and 2 of the black for the negative.
I used 12g stranded wire to run from the power supply connections to the peltier connections.
Since I have 2 TECs I used the other 2 yellow and the other 2 black from the 8 pin connector for the positive and negative to the 2nd TEC, they don't even get warm, they have zero problems handling the TECs.
My question to you is, that peltier is huge 62mm x 62mm, how do you plan cooling the hot side and collecting the useable cold from the cold side?
This will be the water block used to pickup cold.
http://www.shop.customthermoelectric.com/Water-Block-As...;jsessionid=A549EEF2EFE01D7D5E4140D692668E1B.m1plqscsfapp06
This will be the cold/hot plate used.
http://www.shop.customthermoelectric.com/Cold-Plate-w-M...;jsessionid=A549EEF2EFE01D7D5E4140D692668E1B.m1plqscsfapp06
Then I have a Noctua NH-D14 that will sit atop the cold/hot plate.
For the reservoir, I am using dual PVC pipe. one 6 inch and one 4 inch. The 4" will be capped at each end and then wrapped with owens corning insulation and then put inside a painted 6" tube for aesthetic purposes. The 6" tube will then be mounted to the outside of a steel reinforced Lian-LI case. I am planning on this build to be a single case unit which is why I am mounting it to the outside of the case along with the water block assembly. This Lian-Li case also has room for two power supply units. One at the top and one at the bottom. I am a PC builder who is concerned with aesthetics and therefore will not be covering up my acrylic water lines with insulation. Only one line will be insulated and that will be the one from water block to insulated reservoir. Please keep in mind that my goals differ from yours in that, I am only wanting to achieve "better than water alone" temps, Somewhere between ambient watercooling and sub-ambient and I will be happy. If I achieve sub ambient with this setup, then im just that much happier. I believe that with this large of a TEC and this style of "zig zag water flow" water block, my goals are within reason. Your thoughts?
BTW: My GPU's will be on a separate conventional RAD and fan loop.
In progress photo's below.
CustomBuilt said:
Sorry, I couldn't resist. Hello Ryan, I first off want to say congrats to you on your success with this endeavor! I have been following this thread for several months now while slowly buying parts for my very first water cooled build. I have been a system builder for about 15 years now but have never taken the plunge to water cooling till now. I am still in the process of ordering parts and fabricating parts for my first water/chilled system, which leads me to some questions I have for you about the TEG I am considering buying.
First off I have a 1000watt PS with 70amps on the single 12v rail which will be dedicated to the TEG only.
Secondly, this is the TEG I am considering buying.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/280580259103?_trksid=p2055119.m...
My question to you is: will these two work together in harmony or will one destroy the other? (burnout)
knowing that the theoretical max of the 8pin EPS line is 28amps@336watts, will the TEG rated @ 32amps and 550watts try to draw to much from the power supply and burn it out? or itself?
http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors....
TEG spec @16 volt is 32amp @ 550watt max.
I will be running 12v to the TEG so I should expect a max of 24amp @ 412watt. Is this correct?
412watt being max dissipation?
If you can enlighten me on this, It would be much appreciated.
Thank You.
Your 12v amperage estimation of 24a looks right to me and the 412w wattage is very close as well.
To power it the power supply you have is plenty capable very close to mine.
Wiring wise to keep from overloading the cabling I used the 8 pin M/B connector which is 14g wire, consisting of 4 12v yellow positive and 4 black 12v ground, I combined 2 of the yellow for the positive lead wire to TEC #1 and 2 of the black for the negative.
I used 12g stranded wire to run from the power supply connections to the peltier connections.
Since I have 2 TECs I used the other 2 yellow and the other 2 black from the 8 pin connector for the positive and negative to the 2nd TEC, they don't even get warm, they have zero problems handling the TECs.
My question to you is, that peltier is huge 62mm x 62mm, how do you plan cooling the hot side and collecting the useable cold from the cold side?
CustomBuilt
October 11, 2014 9:31:06 AM
Sorry, I couldn't resist.
Hello Ryan, I first off want to say congrats to you on your success with this endeavor! I have been following this thread for several months now while slowly buying parts for my very first water cooled build. I have been a system builder for about 15 years now but have never taken the plunge to water cooling till now. I am still in the process of ordering parts and fabricating parts for my first water/chilled system, which leads me to some questions I have for you about the TEG I am considering buying.
First off I have a 1000watt PS with 70amps on the single 12v rail which will be dedicated to the TEG only.
Secondly, this is the TEG I am considering buying.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/280580259103?_trksid=p2055119.m...
My question to you is: will these two work together in harmony or will one destroy the other? (burnout)
knowing that the theoretical max of the 8pin EPS line is 28amps@336watts, will the TEG rated @ 32amps and 550watts try to draw to much from the power supply and burn it out? or itself?
http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors....
TEG spec @16 volt is 32amp @ 550watt max.
I will be running 12v to the TEG so I should expect a max of 24amp @ 412watt. Is this correct?
412watt being max dissipation?
If you can enlighten me on this, It would be much appreciated.
Thank You.
Hello Ryan, I first off want to say congrats to you on your success with this endeavor! I have been following this thread for several months now while slowly buying parts for my very first water cooled build. I have been a system builder for about 15 years now but have never taken the plunge to water cooling till now. I am still in the process of ordering parts and fabricating parts for my first water/chilled system, which leads me to some questions I have for you about the TEG I am considering buying.
First off I have a 1000watt PS with 70amps on the single 12v rail which will be dedicated to the TEG only.
Secondly, this is the TEG I am considering buying.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/280580259103?_trksid=p2055119.m...
My question to you is: will these two work together in harmony or will one destroy the other? (burnout)
knowing that the theoretical max of the 8pin EPS line is 28amps@336watts, will the TEG rated @ 32amps and 550watts try to draw to much from the power supply and burn it out? or itself?
http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors....
TEG spec @16 volt is 32amp @ 550watt max.
I will be running 12v to the TEG so I should expect a max of 24amp @ 412watt. Is this correct?
412watt being max dissipation?
If you can enlighten me on this, It would be much appreciated.
Thank You.
CustomBuilt
October 11, 2014 8:35:30 AM
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