Last message on previous page: Wow ... interesting. I have a similar problem with Asus A8N SLi. Recently I installed a Asus 8800GT and randomly, the PC just won't boot. OK, all I hear is 5 beeps and everything went dead (HDD keeps spinning I think). I have to switch it off and on and off and on till it boots normally.
And I can't replicate the problem whenever I want. After about 20 times of on and off, I would usually open up the case and give the video card a few good push. Don't know why but it works for me. Must be some bizzare connection.
All these RAM switching that people have suggested, could be just as simple as giving the mobo some physically push (like I did).
How bizarre! Now I wonder if I shall buy another Asus mobo.
Message edited by imnotageek on 04-29-2008 at 12:27:38 PM
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Games that I love: SC, WC3, The Sims 2, Sam & Max Season 1, and World of Warcraft. My humble system: Intel C2Q Q9450@2.66GHz, 4GB RAM, nVidia 8800GT. Games I wish I have the talent to complete: Doom 3, Civ 4, SupComm, Bioshock, TDU ...
Hi again guys. Just had a week or two exchanging emails with ASUS technicians re the No-Post problem on my P5k Deluxe Wi-Fi - so I thought you might appreciate an update.
OK, they insisted I flash BIOS to latest (0812). As I expected it made no difference for me - same as swapping RAM and everything else I have tried. So yesterday they finally OK'd a Warranty RMA with my supplier. I am retired and I live in Spain but have bought all my PC components online from Overclockers, UK. So, this morning I call them about the cleanest way to replace my board.
I am asked to ship it back to them for testing! But we all know what a joke that could turn out to be. First it POSTS then it doesn't. Power up in the morning and it POSTS. Shut it down and try and start up again middle of the day and it doesn't POST. You might get lucky after 7-10 mains-off resets, a 15-minute cool-down and a clear-CMOS. If they agree it has a fault (remember ASUS has been working with me on this for the last 10 days) they will return it to ASUS for "repair or replacement". What's to repair on the P5K I wonder? And replaced with what? Another P5K? And after how long? What do I do in the meantime?
Hey, I paid £145 for this board and I can't afford to be without my PC for more than few days? Who can? They will make a refund "only as a last resort" based on a percentage basis of the current £70 (incl.) price tag. I might get back say £40.
Its beginning to sound like the fault is mine! I built a PC business 10 years ago by NEVER mistreating my customers - especially within the 12 month Warranty period. If there was a problem I quickly swapped out that component at my expense and sorted it out later. If I didn't, I'd risk losing a life-time of custom from that person. This is not rocket-science.
So yes, I'm disappointed becuase I feel I have no option but to shell out for a new board. I will send the old one back, and who knows it might be replaced, but I doubt the new one will be an ASUS. Also, it will probably come from a local supplier next time. You can't beat personal service.
Message edited by garethw on 04-30-2008 at 05:55:04 PM
hey all... same problems here, no surprises i guess..
but, something no one else seemed to mention, after a no post incident, once the computer is back up booting as normal, my wifi card won't work (i have the P5K, not -E wifi.. so my wifi card is PCI linksys)... windows sees the device, but gives error 10 i believe 'cannot start device' or something to that effect. doing a restart will rectify this
could these problems be stemming from a southbridge issue? has anyone ever used a diagnostic post card to see what it may indicate?
<rant>
anyhow, what a bummer, i don't have the money to go out and get a new board while asus takes their time testing, wasting my time, when they clearly know that these boards are a pile of crap. I mean, when Dell produced all the exploding batteries, they recalled them. When Dell gave out laptop AC adapters that had no grounding plug, they send out grounded replacements with no charge because people are getting small shocks from the chassis screws...
Why can't Asus just man up and take responsibility for building such a crappy, flawed product, and fix the situation?
How has there not been a class action suit against Asus for this? If anyone has the time/funding to do so, i think you should involve something about the environment... I can't put my machine to S3 sleep, cause, just as starting from a hard boot, it will frequently not post! Think of how much power is wasted by P5K users who don't bother putting their computers in power save mode, nor shut off because of the inability to boot after. My PC runs 24/7...
</rant>
Message edited by gizmo180 on 05-02-2008 at 03:34:51 PM
Just spent 15 minutes typing a detailed reply that was lost trying to submit...argh..
Same issue P5K deluxe. Has something to do with the ram...suspect voltage. When it hangs I swap two sticks of 1G corsair 1066 out for a single stick of 1G 667. Then can get it to post. I have been messing with this issue since October 2007 and it is driving me freakin crazy. The other day I came home and found it hung. Ram was really hot to touch. Normally after getting it to post with the single 667 1g stick I could put back in the other ram and get it to post. This time I could only get one stick of the 1066 working… kept having it hang and having to put in 667 stick and then couldn’t get either of the corsair 1066 sticks to post. I give up at this point and go buy a new motherboard rampage formula…guess what it won’t post with the corsair ram either…ok so I rma the corsair ram and buy some patriot 1066 ram…can’t get it to post at 1066 without setting voltage to 2.3V as stated on package. But it won’t run stable. If I crank the voltage up to 2.4 it runs stabler but still crashes. The patriot probably isn’t the best ram for this board. Its not listed in the manual as an approved vendor. The good thing about the rampage though is I don’t have to put in a stick of 667 ram to get it to post again after hanging. If I completely power off at the supply for about 30 seconds I can get it to post again. At this point I am thinking of replacing my corsair 620watt power supply. Running out of things to try.
huh.. might have found my solution... don't know if it will work for everyone
before I start, I'll indicate that I have OCZ PC 6400HPC Reaper 4-4-4-15, previously tried all voltage/timing options, nothing helped post stability.
messaged asus, and with a mostly pathetic response, like such as indicating to check my CPU temperatures, even though i said it happens when the system is cold/warm, they did suggest one interesting thing. that was to take the motherboard out and run it on cardboard.. NOT ANTI-STATIC WRAP... just cardboard... well, guess what worked.. wft?! who doesn't ground their board with risers?!?!
anyhow, i install it back in, thinking hey, maybe some were grounded properly, and others weren't.. this had the potential to cause slight ground loops and slightly different ground potentials along the chassis... well, i installed it all back, making sure everything was grounded properly (i had previously used 6/9 easy pop in risers, and 3/9 screws).. now all screws, nope.. doesn't post... okay, taking ASUS's suggestion, I wrapped all the screw holes in the motherboard with black electrical tape from both sides... USE 2 LAYERS THICKNESS OF TAPE, AND ONLY TIGHTEN LIGHTLY!!!
anyhow.. do that, it doesn't post, but i realized that one of a few things could be happening...
1. the back bracket was still grounding the board... solution, take out the bracket, and wrap it in black electrical tape along its edges...
2. screws were tightened too much and contacted the board by breaking the tape...
so, i applied more tape all around... well, it works!!!
hmm.. but one thing i will note, i actually had to remove one riser...i don't know if even having it close to the motherboard provided a ground on the bottom, or even a ground from a capacitance effect (its hard to see when the board is mounted if there is contact), yet when i removed the screw, it would post. BUT when i screwed into this riser it would not post.. even with 3 layers of tape... also, it would not post when i applied pressure toward the riser... even when there was yet another piece of fresh tape wedged between the riser and board... hmm.. so my solution, remove the riser... looking at the board in a standard fashion, CPU at top, all motherboard/PCI connections to your left, the riser I'm talking about is the right most riser of the middle row... this one was especially sensitive for some reason.. so i removed the riser. Also, overtightening the middle riser of the bottom row seemed to also cause problems..BUT, there might have been sketchy contact with the other riser I just mentioned because i had not removed it at this point.. so, just keep an eye on it.
I didn't need to prevent any of the PCI/PCI-E card from contacting the case with their mounting bracket, it works fine with them mounted in a standard fashion.
anyhow.. try it out folks, i really don't know, but i'm posting all the time now!
one more weird thing... when i had it running on card board, i had done that twice to make sure it was indeed working that way... first time, it woudl take so long to get the post beep... i mean, a good 15 seconds after power up... but, it was reliable... i don't even pretend to understand why it took so long.. the second time i assembled it on a cardboard surface.. it posted quickly and normally.. anyway.. don't just get discouraged and shut it off, perhaps you may have a slow posting system like i had temporarily... !?!! who cares, it works now! yeeeeha!!
good luck to you all!
Message edited by gizmo180 on 05-09-2008 at 08:15:53 AM
Another suggestion.... if this issue is based off of ground loops and field potentials forming, has anyone ever tried connecting the active ground (from a molex power connector) directly to the passive ground (the case)? I would assume this may reduce the activity of small, yet hindering electrical potentials between various 'ground' areas on the board....
Asus P5K-E wifi motherboard
E6750 core 2 duo
Crucial Technology Ballistix BL2KIT12864AA804 2GB kit DDR2-800 PC2-6400
Geforce 8800 GTS
WD Raptor 150g hard drive
OCZ GameXstream 700w power supply
The problem is that the computer will fail to POST, but it's random.. or seemingly random. The computer when it does POST works perfectly fine, I've run stress tests with Orthos, played 3d games for hours, no problem at all. But if I do a full shutdown and try to turn it back on, it fails to post and I have to reset several times before it does.
Here is what happens in detail. I hit the power switch, fans come on, lights come on, everything seems to be okay, but no beep and no video. The video card fan will then blast on full. Then I'd have to hit the reset switch, and the system will turn after a few seconds, wait another few seconds and come back on. Now the process just repeats. Eventually I get lucky, I'll hear the beep and the computer will post normally.
I think this is the asus motherboarding recovering from a failed POST, usually after it finally comes back on it'll say Overclocking Failed. It will usually load up the default settings for bios. But that's random too, even when I leave it at default settings with no overclocking, this will happen and the motherboard will underclock it even more. basically my CPU is at 2.66 (333x8) so it will revert to that, or it may go even lower and go to 2.1 (266x8). Normally I have it run at 3200 (8x400) in which is it very stable as I stated in the first paragraph.
What's even more annoying is that once the motherboard does the recovery thing, and for example it sets my cpu to 2.1 (266x8), no matter what I do to change the FSB stays at that setting. I can change the FSB to any number and it will save that setting in BIOS, but in reality doesn't change because CPU-Z and even in the POST screen it'll use my FSB at 266 and report my speed at 2.1. Sometimes if I'm lucky, it will actually change it but normally it gets stuck at that setting. The only sure way I can get it working normally again is if I unplug the power cable, wait a few seconds then plug it back in. That resets something in the motherboard..what exactly I'm not sure.
As I said its seemingly random, I can get it working at 3200 is if it actually POSTS and keeps my settings in BIOS. But even If I don't overclock it and leave it at 2.66 it will do the not posting thing and sometimes go down to 2.1.
I've tried clearing CMOS many times by removing the battery and moving the jumpers.
I've tried removing a memory stick, didn't seem to affect anything.
I've tried flashing the bios using USB method, tried 602 and 503, they both do the same thing.
I'm pretty sure the power supply is fine as the computer work great if it does start
Still happens even when I remove the harddrive, dvd drive
Tried disabling various options in BIOS ppl in other forums have suggested, but none have worked so far.
any suggestions ? or should i just return this motherboard, sigh
Thank you
this is the same problem asus has had for over 4 years - the auto voltage locks before the settings can be set to auto.
that is, the mobo most post to change settings but it can not since you have somthing set wrong - overclocking the cpu and not locking voltagves is usually the cause
this is the same problem asus has had for over 4 years - the auto voltage locks before the settings can be set to auto.
that is, the mobo most post to change settings but it can not since you have somthing set wrong - overclocking the cpu and not locking voltagves is usually the cause
This happens to me with everything set to auto (except ram freq set to 1066_..I have not ever tried to overc lock the cpu.
This happens to me with everything set to auto (except ram freq set to 1066_..I have not ever tried to overc lock the cpu.
what i am posting is a trade secret some may laugh but the key to shipping a stable system is 100% stability - go laugh at uberclok (claims they invented the optima oc systems copied me) and there systems lock up when tested by computer shopper - at least i get a good laugh!
to achiever 100% stablity the ram and cpu voltage must be locked - seems simple but years of R&D cost money
second you must lock the pci-e bus - asus has changed newer mobos
first boot the computer and lock the ram, second overclock the cpu and lock the voltage - the auto settings will show you the voltage.
as i have posted for over year, everyone likes to take credit, the cpu voltage for optimum oc is 1.44-1.46v under full load this is 1.46-1.5+ (crappy nvidia chipsets have large droop need more)
remember the speedstep is you friend drop the multipler reduces degragation of silicone - hence the first 3 year warranty on oc cpu's (warpedsystems 2003)
warpedsystems "the need4speed" .com site is under construction!
"gaming computers built by gamers" : stolen by HP!
^ Is there any truth to the above post? I'm about to pick up this exact board for cheap ($75 shipped!) and fear the issues I've read about here in this thread...
I received the blue screen of death after running my system for the past 7 months flawlessly and after installing windows vista SP1. I blamed SP1 for the screen but tracked it down to the memory.
My system:
P5KE-Wifi AP
Memory Crucial Ballistix 8500 1066 4 1 gb modules
Nvidia 8800 GTS 512
Seagate HD, Western Digital HD
Called Crucial - stated that they are receiving compatibility issues with their memory and Asus motherboards. The 16 chip modules that I have are currently out of stock and they were going to be shipping me the 8 chip modules. Excellent customer service there - I called them and they stated that this information was incorrect (based on the information they had on my system i.e. did not know my mobo) and that the 8 chip modules would not function.
Useful information the customer representative told me - 1. Ballistix chips require 2.2V 5-5-5-15 and that this is the most common error he sees (that was news to me as I am a newbie). 2. The Ballistix chips are having issues with Asus and Crucial is currently in the information gathering mode before they can start creating more compatible chips ETA resolution open - likely months. I tried increasing the voltage on BIOS to 2.2, still not functionning.
Resolution - I am downgrading my memory to a step below the 1066 with an RMA on its way for the Ballistix DDR2 6400 800, I already updated BIOS to run at 2.2V, and currently am recommending not purchasing crucial memory with Asus motherboards until compatibility issues are resolved.
If your system works, I envy you. If it doesn't, try the 2.2 V 5-5-5-15 bios change. If that doesn't and you confirmed that it is your memory, contact Crucial. I just went through their website and called them once.
I still think Crucial is a great memory, their customer support has been excellent as well, it is just unfortunate that the memory and my model motherboard just did not function well together.
This seems like the problem I had with my P5K-E. See my post on 05/12/08 for the solution. The bios sets 1.8v for the DRAM in 'Auto' which is too low for most high speed sticks. The fix is to buy and fit some cheap memory that will run at 1.8v. Boot your PC, go into the bios, set the DRAM voltage to 2.2v, replace cheap memory with your good stuff and you'll find it boots just fine. I sent this solution to ASUS who advised me that it was going to be the subject of a bios upgrade as so many owners of P5K boards have had the same problem. Hope it works for you.
Rolling back the BIOS didn't help stabilize my system, nor did it undo whatever change started the failed POSTs that didn't happen before.
Voltage didn't do much, but I did have Ballistix with Corsair, so removing the Ballistix made things far more stable. I suspect that had something to do with the 3d problems I'd had for 4 months, having the two types with different voltage requirements.
Still not as stable as it was for 2d functions, but there're file issues from all the crashes, so I can't say much until reinstalling windows.
Message edited by Jalek on 06-01-2008 at 07:30:21 AM