Last message on previous page: GEEZ! Cold front moved in. It was 52F in Phoenix this morning. Daytime high is only expected to reach 75 degrees. It might be too cool to spray paint on the patio this evening. Don't know if I will be able to paint or not this evening. It's frustrating.
Bulgin switches are $16.95 at Performance PC's and $16.99 at Mountain Mods. Either way they are expensive but they look good. I managed to destroy a cheap plastic dome style $1.99 switch that I liked. Decided to go ahead and spring for the Bulgin's.
Got home early enough yesterday and outdoor temps were good enough for spray painting. Managed to give the top front panel two coats of copper paint - very very smooth results. Two light coats are better than one heavy coat and helps to avoid runs.
GEEZ! Stopped by the hobby shop on the way home from work. They finally received copper spray paint made for plastic. I think I'm going to paint those two long skinny plastic pieces on the front bezel. The black drive bays will be surrounded by copper. I think the color combination will look good.
Most excellent day today. Sprayed the top front panel with two coats of crystal clear laquer this morning. Already have it installed.
Worked on the switch panel. Cut a 1 inch x 2 inch rectangle in the center of the panel. It will be covered by a small switch plate with two power/reset switches. Drilled 4 holes for the power switch plate. Then drilled six holes to secure the switch panel to the top panel. Even managed to prime to the switch panel. I'll spray it copper tomorrow morning and clear coat it tomorrow afternoon. With a little luck will be done by sunset.
Very slow morning. I am a senior citizen and I'm growing old very disgracefully. One of the tenants where I work is Ticketmaster. One of the managers gave me two primo tickets to a Phoenix Coyotes ice hockey game last night. I've never been to an ice hockey game. Took one of my girlfriends to the game. We had a good time.
Anyway, I did take photos and I'll post them as soon as I am up and running and have all my photo imaging and web publishing software installed. Right now I am using girlfriend's computer. Didn't want to load a bunch of stuff she'll never use.
Don't expect too much. It more of an exercise in case painting and working with metal. I didn't get carried away with the mods as I don't have a machine shop in the garage. Right now the case is sitting on the kitchen counter. Every time I look at it I see room for improvement. This may wind up to being a long time work in progress.
Message edited by JohnnyLucky on 11-09-2008 at 06:31:15 PM
Close call today. The wind picked up, the clouds rolled in, and thunder could be heard in the distance. Despite the threat of rain I managed to finish the power switch panel - two coats of primer, two coats of copper, and two coats of crystal clear laquer. The panel and switches are already installed. That will probably be the end of modifications to the case.
Plastic panel - I took a look at the side panel this morning and saw the rectangular hole. I forgot all about the plastic panel. Stopped by Ace Hardware on the way home from work and bought a plastic cutting blade for my variable speed jig saw. Just need to trim down the acrylic sheet I found at the hobby shop a few weeks ago. It's dark already, I'm tired, and NFL Monday Night Football starts in a few minutes so no cutting tonight.
Most excellent Veteran's Day today. Traffic was not as heavy on the freeway. I should be able to get home quickly from work on the acrylic window for the side panel.
Message edited by JohnnyLucky on 11-12-2008 at 04:32:50 AM
Acrylic Panel - I cut the clear acryllic panel this evening. It was easy. I just placed the old panel on the new one and marked what I needed to cut off. Then I sandwiched the panel between two pieces of wood and clamped everything together. The bottom piece of wood was located close to where I was going to cut. The top piece of wood was set back to act as a guide so I could cut a straight line. I used a jig saw blade designed for cutting plastic and laminate. I got the very fine toothed version. A pack of two at Ace hardware cost $3.28. I have a variable speed jig saw. I set the speed to half speed to avoid melting the plastic. Worked like a charm. The cut edges were nice and sooth. I was expecting rougher edges that I would have to smooth out. It wasn't necessary.
Drilling the mounting holes was easy. After I cut the acrylic panel I simply taped it to the old panel which already had mounting holes. In effect the old panel was a template for drilling holes in the new panel. Beat the heck out of trying to measure and drill. I set my variable speed drill to a slow speed. A high speed drill will definitely melt plastic and create ugly globs of plastic that get stuck in the drill bit.
I did run into one problem. The new panel was a little bit thicker than the old panel. As a result the old push pins were a tiny bit short. No problem. I'll stop at Ace Hardware tomorrow and get nuts, bolts, and washers to match the others I used for the case.
Message edited by JohnnyLucky on 11-12-2008 at 04:49:42 AM
Heatsinks - Last night I was doing a little preperation prior to installing the motherboard. I was checking the alignment of the Enxotech forged copper northbridge and southbridge heatsinks. Discovered the mounting holes were just a little bit off. I'll have to do a little bit of drilling when I get home tonight. Should be fairly easy to do.
The acrylic panel is in. I stopped at Ace hardware and found black bolts, nuts, and washers that fit perfectly. When I got home I peeled off the protective film from both sides of the panel and simply lined up the holes and screwed everything together. It was easy.
With a little luck I'll have the new heatsinks installed this evening. I looked at the case this morning and thought I would have been better off with just a single flat top panel with blowholes and power switches. It would noit be that difficult to drill out the rivets for the top panel, remove it, and replace it with a custom panel. Might look better. I'll have to think about it.
Message edited by JohnnyLucky on 11-14-2008 at 08:38:24 AM
I went ahead and installed the cpu heatsink & fans, the northbridge heatsink, the southbridge heatsink, and the moffset heatsink. For thermal compound I used 7 Carat Diamond. I secured the chipset and moffset heatsinks with #40-4 nylon bolts, washers, and nuts.
Next I connected all fans, the optical drive, one hard drive RAM, and video card. Finally I plugged in power cords and turned the system on. It worked!
I'll have to figure out the cable management. I just made temporary connections yesterday evening. I'll have to pull all the cables and play with it to see what works. Would be nice if there was a simple channel that could be used to hide the wiring.
Decided to go ahead and format the new hard drives and install the OS. I used NLite to slipstream a streamlined version of Windows XP Pro with SP3. It's a slick program. You can pick which Windows features you want or don't want. You can make a lot of selections in advance. You can also include extra items like your video card drivers and useful utilities. Just pop the cd-rom into the optical drive and everything is set up automatically. You can walk away and do something else. Very Cool!
Message edited by JohnnyLucky on 11-15-2008 at 03:22:59 AM
Moved right along this morning. Got just about all of my software programs, images, and files loaded. I have a few software programs that I'll have to download from the web once cable management is done. I have a feeling arranging the cables is going to take some time. Right now the cables are loose inside the case and it looks like a bowl of spaghetti.
Cable management didn't go to well yesterday evening. I have a ton of extra cables and stuff in a spare parts box. I must have spent a half hour just sorting out the cables on the kitchen counter to figure out what I had.
Power, Reset, and CMOS/Reset Switch cables were easy. Just routed them behind the motherboard tray. Excess cable length can be hidden behind the tray. I made some progress with the fan cables. I have two cpu fans that I wanted to connect to the motherboard and six fans that I wanted to connect to the psu. That's when the frustration set in. I used three short Y splitter fan cables on the six fans. That got the six fans down to three connections and all three met in the same spot behind the mobo tray. Then things got really frustrating. Despite a rather large collection of cables I didn't have any simple cable to connect the fans to the psu. Most of the extra cables that ship with fans come with a male molex, a female molex, a male fan connection, and a female fan connections. If I used them, then I would wind up with six molex connectors and six fan connectors behind the motherboard tray. Somewhere, at some online vendor I saw a custom cable that was made to daisy chain up to four fans to just one molex connector. It looked good in the photos. I'm going to have to see if I can get one.
Don't know how much I'll get done today due to televised NFL football games.
Stopped by the hardware store yesterday afternoon to purchase cables ties. I noticed packages of cable tie mounts that would allow me to use cable ties just about anywhere on the back of motherboard tray. That might help a bit. I'll have to take another look at the photos at the CoolerMaster web site to see how cable management was done.
I figured out the problem with cable management when I went back to the CoolerMaster web site and took another look at the photo gallery. The only thing CM shows is a large power cable running up the back of the motherboard tray. There are no other cables in the photos. No SATA power cables, no SATA data cables, no front i/o cables - nothing, zip, zero, zilch! The cheeky bastards!!
Ventilation and cooling - The Asus motherboard came with a cd containing several utilities. One of the is called ASUS Probe 2. It monitors temperatures and fan speeds. At idle the utility indicated a cpu temperature of 30 degrees Centigrade. Last night I ran the Prime95 torture test. The cpu temperature hit a maximum of 40 degrees Centigrade. I have read reports and comments indicating the Asus utility might be inaccurate. I'll have to try a few test with other temperature monitoring software.
Had a bit of a very minor problem when I went to Windows Update and installed all those security patches. There was a minor glitch when the system rebooted. I had to restart the pc a second time. Seems to be okay now.
I know there's one more multi fan cable connector that is different from the Zalman version but I can't seem to find it. I know I saw it at one of the case mod vendors. Just can't remember where.
Message edited by JohnnyLucky on 11-21-2008 at 09:01:03 PM
I have an AMD Athalon 64x2 6000 cpu. I downloaded the latest version of coretemp. I ran it, ASUS Probe 2, and the Prime 95 torture test set at 100% maximum load. Idle was around 30 degrees Centigrade and maximum temp at 100% load was 40 degrees Centigrade. ASUS Probe 2 and coretemp displayed temps within one degree of each other. I'm going to run a few more tests over the next couple of days.
DUST - The pc has been up and running for over a week now. There is a little bit of dust on the side panel with the large 230mm fan and perforated mesh. Otherwise the other fans still look clean. I'm guessing it's probably due to the exhaust fans having a higher capacity than the intake fans.
DOA - I moved my pc to a new apartment yesterday. I was very careful not to bump it. I used bath towels for padding and drove carefully. When I got to the partment I hooked up the pc. It was dead. The psu, fans, drives, card reader, and power buttons on the motherboard are all getting power but the pc will not boot. I tried every technique I've ever read about and still nothing. I have a spare cpu that I'm going to try. SIGH!
I needed to get a 6 foot long, USB 2.0, A/B external cable for one of my girlfriends. The local Best Buy, Office Max, and Radio Shack wanted between $27.00 and $32.00 for one. I knew the price was too high. When I got home I check pricegrabber.com. Best Byte Computers had the Belkin Pro cable for $1.10. I purchased three cables. The total cost including first class mail was $8.10.
When I got home from work I gave the pc one more shot. Kitchen counter wound up looking like a mad scientist's laboratory. I can't figure it out. The motherboard is definitely getting power. The lights are on and the motherboard is powering the fans connected to it. Tried both cpu's again. Pain in the butt to clean them and the heatsink. I gave up.
One of the Fry's Electronic stores is just 20 minutes from the new apartment. I went there last night to look at and maybe get a new motherboard. They had an in store special for a cheap ECS motherboard. Regular price was $69.00 and the sale price was $39.00. I figured what the heck! I went ahead and got it to hold me over until I decide what I really want. I'll put the pc together this afternoon when I get home from work.
I think I am going to make the switch to Intel and ATI.
Installed the new motherboard last night. Didn't take much to get up and running. Just had to load a couple of drivers. Now I can work on finishing the case mod.
The el cheapo motherboard is a micro atx case. It looks awful small in the case, especially with the huge tower heatsink with 2 fans. Kinda funny but it got me to thinking about building a small form factor case from scratch. It's definitely doable.
Sitting here looking at the micro atx board in the huge case. Just realised if the psu was mounted in the top, then everything below the motherboard could be chopped off. Hmmmm......
Looks like another problem with the el cheapo motherboard. There are only two SATA headers on the board. I have two SATA II hard drives and a Plextor SATA II optical drive. Had to start with the optical drive connected to load a few drivers. Then had to disconnect it and connect the second hard drive. Pain in the butt.
Hey Johnny cant wait to see what to see what your rig will look like. im trying to learn more about modding so i can do what your doing. What tools are you using to take the rivets out and put back in and what size rivets do you think they are?
You can use an electric drill with a very small drill bit to drill out the rivets. Just drill into the side of the rivet with the tiny hole/depression in it. You can use a small hand operated riveter available at hardware stores and hobby shops to rivet parts back together. Your other options is to use small nuts, bolts, and washers. My situation was different. I only removed the lower hard drive cage. To spray paint the interior flat black it wasn't necessary to take the entire case apart.
I did not put the lower drive cage back in as I didn't need it. There were more than enough drive bays in the upper cage for a multi-card reader, an optical drive, and two hard drives. I used a Coolermaster 4-in3 drive bay device with 120mm fan in front for the two hard drives. You could actually mount 4 hard drives in the 4-in-3 which only takes up 3 drive bays. I have one drive bay left over in case I want to add another optical drive.
bohmann took his case completely apart as he is going to chrome plate it. Haven't heard from him in a while so I don't know what kind of progress he made.
olddman left his case alone. He is up and running with an overclocked Intel Q6600 cpu. His temperatures are very respectable for a stock case and stock fans.
Hey johnny or anyone else with the case can you tell me how long it is from the bottom of the case to the top of the bottom hard drive bay(how tall is the bottom hard drive bay which is turned sideways)
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