Last message on previous page: Hey johnny or anyone else with the case can you tell me how long it is from the bottom of the case to the top of the bottom hard drive bay(how tall is the bottom hard drive bay which is turned sideways)
The distance from the inside bottom of the case to the bottom of the upper drive cage cage is 9.5 inches. That lower drive cage is riveted to the bottom of the case and to the upper drive cage. I removed mine as I didn't need it.
Any chance you are from Philadelphia, PA? I'm originally from Chester.
Message edited by JohnnyLucky on 12-11-2008 at 03:20:27 AM
Bohmann the guy that is going to chrome plate his case got it at a Microcenter too. With a little luck I'll have a few pics up Sunday evening. Now that I'm up and running with the el cheapo mother I started downloading and installing new versions of the digital imaging and web publishing software that I use.
Other progress. Went to IKEA yesterday evening and purchased a birch veneer desk top that is 78 inches wide and 25 inches deep for $40.00 plus table legs at $5.00 each. The depth is perfect for flat panel monitors. Had to put the new desk in the bedroom because of the width. Just finished setting up the pc in the bedroom. So far, so good.
Ordered another tube of IC 7 Carat Diamond Thermal Compound and a couple of 3 pin fan cable splitter for the el cheapo motherboard. Now I just have to think a few things through.
hey johnny in what order did you strip you case? After taking the top part off(the part that unscrews) what did you take off in what order? How did you take the front panel off?
Do you mean the front bezel & front grill? The front grill is located at the bottom front. It's the horizontal grill with the CoolerMaster Logo. You can reach under it and and pull it off. Just apply steady pressure. Do not yank or jerk it suddenly. The probgs might break. There is black perforated modder's mesh attached to that grill. The mesh has a few tiny tabs that hold it in place. You can simply bend/straighten the tabs to remove the mesh. Next remove the perforated mesh drive bay covers. Once you have the grill and drive covers removed you will see small screws used to secure the black upright pieces on the left and right of the front panel. Just remove the screws. The big fan in front is also held in place with screws and can be easily removed.
I also removed the black plastic USB/Audio/Firewire panel at the top front of the case. The rubber padding in the bottom of the tray comes right out exposing a couple of screws which hold the panel in place.
There is a panel that covers the top rear mounting hole for a top mounted psu. Just unscrew it.
There is a psu mounting bracket in the bottom rear of the case. It's held in place with a couple of tabs and screws. Once the screws are removed the tabs will come out of the slot.
I removed the bottom internal hard drive cage. It was riveted in place. I never replaced the bottom cage because I had no need for it. I can always put it in later if I need it.
I also removed all those tooless hard drive mechanisms in the upper drive cage. I just screw my components to the upper drive cage. I don't normally swap drives so I didn't put them back in. There's a little trick to those tooless drive mounts. You have to push and try and slide the mechnism toward the rear of the case - BUT ONLY WHEN THE BUTTON AND MOUNTING PINS ARE IN THE OPEN POSITION! If the button is pushed in and pins stick into the drive bay as if a hard disk was mounted in place, then the mechanism will not slide out. You'll probably have to apply quite a bit of pressure with your thumbs and fingers.
The only thing left inside the case was the uppter drive cage. I didn't take anything else apart as it was easy to spray paint the interior flat black.
I did not remove the panels or take apart the frame. I didn't need to for the painting I did. I did cut away the mesh covering the rear exhaust fan and the front intake fans. for unrestricted air flow.
bohmann took his case completely apart. He popped every rivet. That's because he was planning on chrome plating his case. He was hoping to have his case done by Christmas but he hasn't posted here in quite some time.
You'll see what I did in the photos. I'm not at home right now and I have a Christmas concert to go to this evening. It will be late by time I get the photos on line.
Message edited by JohnnyLucky on 12-14-2008 at 10:43:07 PM
Please bear in mind that the case mod and improvements are not complete. This is a work in progress. Additional photos will be posted as the project moves forward.
Message edited by JohnnyLucky on 12-24-2008 at 03:15:43 AM
I am looking for a decent case to build my gaming machine soon. HAF seems a nice target with its expansibility. But there is no filter inside. Is it fine with you about this flawless part??
By the way, I find there is a liquild injection hole on the top. I am wondering how to install tube on the top? Is there any photos for reference?
All metal parts were primed with Rustoleum Painter's Touch white primer spray paint. The interior of the case was then spray painted with Rustoleum flat black. The top panel was spay painted with Ace Hardware copper followed by Rustoleum Clear Coat Laquer. I purchased all of the paint at my local Ace Hardware store.
The plastic horizontal grill was sprayed with Master Modeler white primer, copper, and clear coat. I purchased the spray paint at my local hobby shop.
Do not paint plastic parts with spray paint designed for metal. The solvents in the paint will eat into plastic and ruin the paint job. Instead, use a spray paint designed specifically for plastic. The paint is available at hobby shops.
Message edited by JohnnyLucky on 12-16-2008 at 06:04:32 AM
I have never used any kind of air filter because the filters severely reduce air flow. I also remove perforated mesh and grill guards to improve airflow. If a fan has an air filter and a grill guard then the fan's air flow can be reduced as much as 80%. If I use modder's perforated mesh, I use a type that reduces air flow by only 20%.
If you take a look at the photos you will see that I cut holes for the bottom front fan and the exhaust fan on the rear panel for unrestricted air flow.
My system is air cooled. I am not familiar with water cooling. There are two holes on the back of the case for water cooling. I covered the holes with a copper plate and installed a CMOS/BIOS reset switch.
Message edited by JohnnyLucky on 12-16-2008 at 06:14:24 AM
Well, the fan cable splitters arrived along with some other items I purchased arrived. Time to move forward but I am having a hard time justifying an Intel quad core cpu and motherboard. I do not have any software programs that make use of four cores.
Last night I connected the rest of the case fans. I only have the two cpu/heatsink fans connected to the el cheapo montherboard because the mobo only has two fan connectors. In fact the board only has two memory banks and only two SATA connectors. I guess I shouldn't expect too much from a $39.00 mobo.
Message edited by JohnnyLucky on 12-17-2008 at 04:30:05 PM
CPU Core temperatures - Before I attached the side panels to the case I ran several cpu temperature utilities. With an ambient room temperature of 68F, the utilities showed core temps of 19C and 22C at idle. After I attached the sid panels I got the same temps at idle. Looks the case and fans have excellent air flow and cooling.
This morning when I got up I was running the cpu temperature utility while I ran 4 programs at once just to see what would happen. Temp never got above 26C. I was running my digital imaging software. It ran smooth as silk and that was with the AMD Athalon 64x2 5200 cpu. I simply don't have anything that would make use for 4 cores.
I've got that AMD Athalon 64x2 6000+ that is rated at 3.0 Mghz in the spare parts box. That's the one I lapped for the ASUS motherboard that died. I'm thinking I ought to just go with the 6000+ for now.
I was looking at AM2+ motherboards and discovered Biostar now has five motherboards designed for the new AMD 790 northbridge and 700 southbridge chipsets. I had incredibly good luck with the Biostar socket 939 boards when I was building pc's for friends, neighbors, and girlfriends. Some of them have been up an running for a few years now.
As near as I can tell here's the best board they have:
That is Biostar's original board with the new chipsets. Biostar is usually known for entry level boards that are rock solid. Looks like they did some catching up this time.
Newegg has the new board for $109.99. There are very few user comments. I went looking for technical reviews and they're very positive. The board is also good for serious overclocking.
I'm think I'll just go with the Biostar board and VISTA for now. Then I'll just wait and see how things play out.
I've pretty much made up my mind to stick with the AMD Athalon 64x2 6000+ cpu that I have and just get the Biostar motherboard. If I were a hardcore gamer it would be a different matter. The ASUS motherboard that died on me was the first one with the new 790 northbridge and 750 southbridge chipsets. I also had a little bit of bad luck with a Gigabyte board.
That Biostar board has an interesting overclocking feature. Apparently it comes with software that can automatically overclock. It tests the system with verious settings until the system crashes. Then it sets everything for stable overclocking. I guess it's supposed to make things easier for people that don't know anything about overclocking.
I was over at tigerdirect.com checking prices for the Biostar motherboard when I noticed a video clip. I watched the video which was a sales pitch for the board. There was a Tiger TV logo at the top right corner of the screen.
Later in the day I was over at compusa.com. Thety had the exact same video but with a Comp USA logo at the top right corner of the screen.
Did Tiger Direct buy Comp USA? I know Comp USA was in financial difficulty and closed many retail stores. Did Biostar make a general purpose sales video which any online vendor could use? Inquiring minds want to know.
It looks like Biostar separated SATA connectors to make room for a couple of long video cards on the origial board that I like. The other four Biostar boards have the SATA connectors jammed together. User comments indicated some long video cards cover some of the SATA connectors on the other four boards. Wondering how they got it right on the first board and then screwed up on the other four.
Those newer 790 Biostar motherboards may have the same chipsets but they don't have the same specs. The original one I picked out has 128MB of DDR2 side port memory. The others only have 64MB of side port memory. Now I just have to figure out what it is. Found out by accident. Tiger Direct had a board for $10.00 less than everyone else but when I looked at the detailed specs I discovered it was not the original board that I liked. It's starting to look like the original board was the best and the others have some cost cutting. You'd think they'd keep improving the board.
Well I figured out that new side port memory. The Biostar web site claims it helps with 3D graphics and can boost 3D performance up to 10%. Tom's Hardware had an article about that a while ago.
Did some more research on Biostar because Tiger Direct confused me. One of the newer 790 boards looked like it had the same SATA connections spaced apart to accomodate two long video cards. At first I thought Tiger Direct made a mistake and was showing the wrong photos. I was wrong. I went back to the Biostar web site and looked at photos and specs for all five 790 boards. There is a second board that has the same layout as the original I picked out. The original has a 128MB side port while the second one has a 64MB side port. The second board costs $10.00 less than the original. I'm ordering the original 790 board.
Take a look at Biostar's new socket 1366 board for the Intel Core i7:
Done deal! Ordered the Biostar motherboard. It should arrive in a couple of days. Once it gets here and I install it, I can work on a little touch up and cable management.
Hmmm.....newegg.com sent email indicating motherboard was shipped yesterday - UPS 3 day select but order status shows an estimated delivery date of January 2nd. I hope that's a mistake.
Just checked shipment status at newegg and UPS. Both sites show the motherboard has left Louisville enroute to Phoenix. Newegg changed the estimated delivery date back to January 2nd. UPS is still showing a delivery date of January 5th. I wonder what newegg knows that UPS doesn't.
For the past two days the new motherboard has been somewhere between Louisville, Kentucky and Phoenix, Arizona. Doesn't look like UPS is sending the motherboard by air.
Received the new motherboard. It's a real beauty. Very clean looking board. The heatsink retention bracket is actually screwed down with what appear to be chrome 40-4 screws and nuts! The manual is much better than usual. There's even a good explanation of RAID in plain English!
Looks like everything is okay. One of the adavnced BIOS settings was off. Ran Prime 95 for several hours last night. Everything is nice and stable. I monitored temps during the torture tests. Looks good even at 100% load.
Not trying to be rude....its just its annoying to see this dead thread bumping everyday...(Johnny u literally posted everyday straight basically)
They made "private messaging" for something
Message edited by Silverion77 on 01-07-2009 at 02:38:30 PM
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Reply to Silverion77
Hey could one of you guys do me a favor and measure the distance between the harddrive cage and the expansion slot openings. I need to know if I will be able to fit a Geforce 280 GTX card in it, my current case (thermaltake Armor jr) I had to cut some of the cage to get it to fit.
The distance from the card slots on the rear panel to the rear of the hard drive cage is 13.5 inches. The CM HAF 932 is a huge pc case. It can handle any video card made.
Thanks JohnnyLucky, I bought it Saturday from FrozenCPU (I just went there saved shipping). Have to say it is a well put together case minus not having some sort of dust protectant but i can fab something up.
As for the harddrive rails I have to say not as good as I would have hoped, I just wish they stuck with screws instead. The 23CM fans work great, however they didn't seem to flow as much as I'de hope but that could be im not used to having 800RPM fans which are pretty quiet. I bought another fan for the 120MM that goes next to the power supply and blows cold air in my video card.
Now I do notice my power supply cranks up it's fan (I have a Ultra X connect 2) but I have it faced downward, so I might just rotate it 180 so it sucks air from inside the case.
Now as far as cooling goes. I have to say it does a great job. I was going from a smaller case so naturally I will get a few degrees cooler even without the large fans. My internal temp went way down at least 15 degrees, and I noticed my video card doesn't crank up as high as it usually did with my other case but this is also do because I have that 120mm fan on the bottom blowing up at it. I still need to get Nvidia's monitoring app so I can get temperature comparisons. As for my CPU it was a little colder but stayed pretty much the same but I can't nock it because it is the OEM fan.
Still debating on which aftermarket cooler I want to get but I need it to be compatable with an AM3 board for when they come out.
As for cable managment this case is phenomenal, I still need to go back and make it better but I'm still trying to find a company that makes sata cables at a 45 degree angle so I can route them better. I hate the 90 degree ones, they are a pain in the ass to get off the harddrive/motherboard.
The case can accomodate just about any cpu heatsink made. I have a large tower style heatsink with plenty of room left over for the large 230mm fan on the side panel. The only problem so far has been access to the memory slot closest to the cpu. It's almost completely under the heatsink fan. I can't install any of the newer memory sticks with the tall memory coolers into that slot. That's not a case problem though.
I wasn't too crazy about the hard drive rails either. I completely removed the lower internal hard drive cage simply because I didn't need it. I also removed all the drive clips from the upper external drive cage. Screwed everything into place as I don't normally swap drives and devices. I installed a CoolerMaster 4-in-3 drive bay adapter into the lower three external drive bays. The 4-in-3 adapter contains two internal hard drives and a 120mm fan in front. That left me with three external drive bays and I only used two of those - one for an optical drive and one for a card reader.
I can't remember where I saw it but a few months ago someone was advertising a sata data cable with a rotating connector.
Message edited by JohnnyLucky on 01-26-2009 at 05:59:41 PM
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