Compaq Presario R3000 power cord issue - Page 4

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Take your harddrive out, never send it along.

On the contrary, I asked HP about this and they said they would NOT repair unless all components that came with the laptop were installed.

Yes, it is necessary to back it up -- how far do you trust them with your data when you have seen how unreliable they are already? Luckily my IT guy at work was willing to help me with that part. He removed the hard drive from my computer and installed it into a portable drive that he has. Then we backed that up onto my work computer and from there onto my portable USB drive.

HP also emailed me some info about components I could buy to back up my computer:
"Method 2:
You can also get an Hard IDE connector that connects the notebook hard
drive to the desktop hard drive. you can get the IDE connector Cables
from the below given links:

http://techrepublic.com.com/5102-6255-5160538.html
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/inside [...] html"

Another option would be to buy on ebay the xc1000 cable to power up your computer, back it up, and then sell it again when the computer is repaired. They are selling like hotcakes presumably because they are a good work around on this issue. BTW, don't let HP try to sell you the XC2000 as a work around, #1 because it is one more way for them to avoid responsibility, but #2 because the XC2000 does not fit this computer's port. They no longer sell the XC1000 - it has been discontinued. Another instance I suppose of HP not properly supporting Compaq models.

I'll create a pdf of the relevant parts of the transcript, put it up in cyberspace, and post a link to it tomorrow.

So I followed the superb details listed throughout this thread to take the laptop apart, solder the 4 points and put it back together.

It does the same thing it did before 'attempting' to fix the problem. When I connect the AC adapter to the Laptop the power light(Lightning bolt) lights up for around 2-3 seconds and then goes off. If I disconnect/reconnect the cable it does the same thing, on for 2-3 seconds and then off.

When this occurs you can see Windows detect a power source and the battery icon disappears from the systray, 3 seconds later it of course, pops back up.

I can't figure out if I truly had the issue with the solder points being weak or if I have another problem. I did not want to spend the money on a new adapter if that was not the problem.

Any thoughts?

I, too, had the same issue with the power cord/soldering/MoBo.

I contacted Compaq/HP...told them that my notebook had a KNOWN issue. I was afraid that since it was a year out of warranty they'd give me grief about it. Instead (and hold on to your hats!), they sent me packaging material, overnite, to sent the notebook to them (again, overnite). They replaced the motherboard for free (as if it were still under warranty).

As an added bonus...I had a column of dead pixels on my display. They replaced the lcd panel for free, as well. I think because the paperwork said 'warranty', the tech saw the dead pixel issue, and assumed s/he was to fix it as well.

Give 'em a call...can't hurt! You might want to mention to them on the phone that you are aware that this is a KNOWN issue with this model.

Not sure if this applies to my problem or what, but here goes:

I have to hold the cord in a specific way to even get the charge light to come on. WHen I try to power up, I get the power light on for about 6-7 seconds, and then nothing. During this time, I can't feel/hear any physical activity from the laptop at all, no HD spinning up, no fan, etc. I can't get the laptop on at all, because the battery is dead.

Does this sound like it could be fixed by resoldering the power jack?

Thanks!

Problem is it won't run at all now, on battery, or with battery removed. Am I past the point of no return possibly?

Also, when I do manage to get the cord in the right position for the charge light to come on, when I press the power button, there's no light on it, no lights anywhere else on the laptop that come on other than the power light and charge light.

Well, that's what I tried last night. I THINK the battery got charged all the way, no way to tell tho, meter leads won't fit to test it. Laptop will do the exact same thing when on battery only, with adapter unplugged. Perhaps the jack solder points are too weak now to transmit enough current to fully charge the battery, as you said. In the process now of ripping it apart to check out the power jack.........lol

No luck yet, resoldered the connections, and nothing has changed. Starting to get really depressed now.............lol

Ripped the whole laptop apart, and luckily read this forum. So waiting for my soddering iron to heat up and then i am going to pray it fixes the problem... Wish me luck here i go!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Check the 2 most left and right copper connectors of the docking port, with adapter attached, for a voltage. If power there, the jack should let enough through to get the laptop started. If nothing there, you could re-route the adapter to those contacts, and see if the laptop starts from there. I can't recall which is plus or minus, can check that tomorrow if you need the info.

Hello,
it's me again...and i did it. Thanks to everyone... and a big thanks to my brother in law who sent the missing part...

Everything was fine. I did take about 60 pictures during operation Power jack, so if you are interested let me know...

the coolest one...

and
my favorite ::


or this one...i'm not so sure::


You can see on this one how joints were loose ::


I'm thinking about making a .pdf file with directions how to fix it, and change the power jack...do you think it's needed??

Sorry to hear you weren't able to fix it. HP ought to be sued. I'll have no choice but to pay someone (even though I've already paid $390 to a tech here who did nothing). I'm calling someone in HP Corporate tomorrow and laying out this whole soap opera. If I get anything positive from them, Ill post it.

$500!!, from the same family, it looks like a conspiracy! Does your husband's machine gets that on start up? He has a bad harddisk, data corruption on the harddisk (could be caused by bad memory), lousy harddisk contact/-cable. Don't you know what the tech did, he might have just popped another $50 harddrive in, or dis- and reconnected the cables.

btw this can also occur on booting up when a non system disk (floppy or cd) is left in the drive, and these drives are set prior to the harddisk in bootorder, in the bios setup.

That message comes up when the computer looks for an operating system to start, and can't find one on the found disks, or finds no disks at all. Thats a failure of the hibernating part of windows if it only happens after waking up from hibernating. Is it ok when you boot it from a total power off? If so, you should google for hibernating problems for your OS and computermodel. Might give a patch or other workaround. Is windows updated?

I was having the same problem. Since I do not have the expertise to take apart my computer I was trying to buy one of those All-In-One Media Cables XC1000 that are supposed to allow you to power the computer through the docking station port. They are going for over $90 on Ebay. I emailed Compaq to complain and they told me I could buy one of the media cables at this link.

http://h20141.www2.hp.com/hpparts/ [...] US&lang=EN

You enter the product 359680-001 and do a search and it comes up. It is only $36 from HP directly and they are in stock. Amazing.

When I tried to find this product by searching for it without the product number on the HP website I could never find it but by using this link and the product number it came up.

Hopefully this will help people like me who do not have the time or patience to take apart the computer.

I want to thank you all for these posts. My daughter's Compaq crapped out with what I now realize must be bad solder joint on the motherboard. Local shop wanted $300 to fix it. I found you guys on Google and you saved her world! Saw that post about the XC1000 cable, went to eBay, got one for about $65 (there are now lots of them out there - probably bootleg from China), had it shipped to her and she is back in business. THANK YOU to the clever son of a gun who thought of this really handy workaround for those of us who should never be allowed near a screwdriver (unless it is served on the rocks and light on the OJ).

From one sorry R3000 owner to another, thank you for trying to get someone at HP to take responsibility for this. I'm still fiddling with my power cord 3 times a day an waiting for my husband to do the quick fix by putting a hole in the unit over the solder connections. I'm not paying any more money to get ths fixed. Hope your conversation gets some attention.

Hello, they probably meant wattage (25-40Watts should do) instead of voltage. A standard one from radioshack will do, as the solder wire they sell for electronic repairs or -building. Get a roll or a card of that too. You want a sharp tip, just to heat up the pin, not fry the components around. The procedure is simple:
-Adjust the jack to it's desired position. If you can secure it it's better.
-Heat up the solder tool, check it by touching the tip with the wire solder until the wire melts.
-Put the tip to the part of the positive pin sticking out through the board. If possible parallel to one side. Heat it up for a while and add solder to the pin, not the tool (if possible, space is limited).
-Keep the tool in place until the solder is fully molten and not flowing anymore, move the tip away from the pin, do not move the board or the jack for a minute to let the solder get hard. If the job is done well, the soldering looks smooth and shiny. If it is like a dull paste, it wasn't hot enough or it was moved before it hardened out.
You can do both sides of the board, careful not to hit anything else!
I would redo the negative 3, now that you are there, can't make it worse, only better.
About that other jack, it's strange that the positive pin is loose in the jack itself (if that is what you meant), maybe for a reason, to get the strain off the board when plugging/ unplugging.

I ordered the part mentioned in Ben Franklin's post on February 15th. I call HP on the 21st to ask why it hadn't arrived yet to find out its on back order and is projected to ship the 27th. I check their website today and I find the part (359680-001) isn't even available to order. Is HP actually trying to chase away customers? I'm going to call HP after class to find out if I should just buy one off of Ebay for twice the cost.

YES, YES, YES, Horray, Horray, Horray

I just want to send a really big thank you to everyone who has contributed to this forum- especially to Que who gave me directions on how to solder things!!

If you have a problem with the power jack on your HP/compaq laptop then I would suggest fixing it yourself!!
Don't pay compaq $100's if you are out of warranty
Do it yourself it isn't that hard.

It may seem very daunting and if you aren't very familiar with the insides of computers (like me) and you will probably worry every time you remove a screw (like me again!!!) but the computer companies just want you to think it is hard so you pay them lots of money, or buy a new piece of equipment off them.

It really is very hard to break anything, and as long as you follow golden rule number 1 -ALWAYS REMOVE HARD DRIVE FIRST- you will not actually loose any information/ vital accounts/ the kids Xmas photos if you accidentally do something wrong.

Here's how I fixed my DC power jack in my laptop.....

NOTE. IF YOU ARE STILL UNDER WARRANTY SEND IT OFF AND GET IT DONE FOR FREE. IF YOU DISMANTLE YOUR LAPTOP WHILST STILL UNDER WARRANTY IT WILL INVALIDATLE THE WARRANTY.
IF YOU DISMANTLE IT AFTER THE WARRANTY HAS EXPIRED THEY DON'T GIVE A S@*T.

and i wouldn't advocate drilling holes in anything either just to save the trouble of taking your computer apart as you never know what you are going to hit!!

1. Download the FREE manual on how to dismantle your laptop from the following weblink.
http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c00212209.pdf
This link is from a Compaq technician and covers the dismantling of the HP Pavillion zx5000, HP Pavillion zv5000. Compaq Presario R3000 series and the HP Compaq nx9100 series.

2. Print off or save the manual to another computer so that when you have dismantled your laptop you can still look at the instructions!!

3. Take the laptop apart following the step by step instructions in section 5. (removal and replacement).
NOTE- Your laptop may be very slightly different from the manual depending on what country you bought it in, and the manual covers all models- so look at the instructions for your model. DON'T WORRY. The instructions vary only slightly (1 or 2 screws different, the odd cable) between models so it isn't that confusing.

IF YOU DON'T UNDERSTAND WHAT THE MANUAL IS TELLING YOU TO DO, ie- remove heat sink, undo ZIF connector- THEN ASK! The people on this forum are very helpful, or do a google search and find the information you need. The pictures in the manual are good too, and I didn't know what a ZIF connector was but I could tell from the picture and it was obvious.

SEE PICTURE OF PAGE 7 (bomark) OF THIS FORUM TO SEE WHAT YOUR LAPTOP WILL LOOK LIKE NOW!!

You will need to remove the following in this order (as per section 5.20)

1. Battery
2. Hard drive
3. Disk drive
4. Strip cover
5. Keyboard
6. Thermal cover
7. PCI card- but don't need to unclip wires)
8. Display
9. Base enclosure
10. Speakers
11. System board

You don't need to remove the memory but be careful when doing all this not to get static near it as this may f@*k your RAM, just make sure you are earthed at all times


4. When you have taken the laptop apart - you need to solder the jack back into place.
Rob on this forum has a picture of the exact place that you need to solder so follow his link
http://206.130.101.158/pictures/Solder_Here.jpg
There are 4 places you will probably need to solder to repair the connection (1 positive and 3 negative- the 3 negative are in a line). This will ensure that when you plug your laptop in the electricity can flow between the jack and the motherboard to power the unit and recharge the battery.
Que has good directions on how to solder if (like me) you have never done it before

(Msg. 181) Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 6:17 am
Post subject: Re: Compaq Presario R3000 power cord issue [in reply to: doxeysocks]

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A standard one (soldering iron) from radioshack (or any DIY store-as no radioshacks in the uk) will do, as will the solder wire they sell for electronic repairs or -building. Get a roll or a card of that too. You want a sharp tip, just to heat up the pin, not fry the components around. The procedure is simple:
-Adjust the jack to it's desired position. If you can secure it it's better.
-Heat up the solder tool, check it by touching the tip with the wire solder until the wire melts.
-Put the tip to the part of the positive pin sticking out through the board. If possible parallel to one side. Heat it up for a while and add solder to the pin, not the tool (if possible, space is limited).(don't worry if it touches the tool though)
-Keep the tool in place until the solder is fully molten and not flowing anymore, move the tip away from the pin, do not move the board or the jack for a minute to let the solder get hard. If the job is done well, the soldering looks smooth and shiny. If it is like a dull paste, it wasn't hot enough or it was moved before it hardened out.
You can do both sides of the board, careful not to hit anything else!
I would redo the negative 3, now that you are there, can't make it worse, only better.

--------------------------------------------

I only did the one side of my board as i was scared of hitting anything if soldering from the other side- and i was quite heavy handed with the soldering iron. I managed to get a blob of solder on the first negtive pin
but it was in a wierd shape and was sticking up, so I put the soldering iron back on it and wiggled it round a bit to get the blob flatter- then did the same for the other bits. I have ended up with quite a bit of solder on the 4 joins, but none of them are touching each other or any other circuits on the board and that is the important bit (so you don't get a short). It don't look pretty but it conducts 'lectricity and that's what counts!!!


Also another point to note was that my computer was in bits and lying around for over a week all over our spare room- it didn't do it any harm so don't worry about having to get everything done in one day.
The only thing you have to be careful of is not to let the paste on the heat sink for your chip dry out. This helps to conduct heat away from your processor so that it doesn't overheat. If you have had the heat sink off for more than a few hours (or less in a hot environment) make sure you replace the paste (a couple of bucks) before putting the computer back together.

5. Put laptop back together by following the dismantling directions but backwards.
Put everthing back EXCEPT the hard drive. This is so that if you have made a mistake somewhere along the line you don't loose all your stuff.

6. Plug in

7. If battery light is on and battery is charging steadily then unplug from mains and put memory in.

8. Plug in and turn computer on.

This repair cost me 9.99 UKP, as i had to buy a soldering iron and solder, but if i has sent it to compaq, or even PC world it would have cost me a minimum 140 quid.
I am not trained in electronics or computer repair- i just followed the step by step instructions on dismantling the computer and it works again like it should.

THANK YOU AGAIN to all on this forum

I'm never buying compaq again but at least i know how to fix it now.

Cheers
Becky

Riich, it could be the same, at best. or worse. If you can get a startup (battery out) with the adapter plug in a certain position, it would be a clear indication of your power-in jack being the culprit. It may be impossible by now to start from the battery because it is completely drawn empty?
If you have a voltage meter, check the most left and most right copper contacts of the docking port for a voltage, with the adapter attached. If you measure the 19 Volts there, the jack should work, and your running/charging problems might be caused by malfunctioning parts of the board, capacitors, voltage barriers, etc.

@Becky, congratulations! It sounds like you did not heat up the contacts you soldered enough, solder should flow almost like water, but it works, so who cares!

good luck
I bought the r3000 and 5 days after the waranty went out it died. same issue with the power cord so i tried the cable fix and still nothing.

after filing with the B.B.B and over an hour on the phone i was told to pay to have it fixed. Not!!!!!!!!! screw hp. I took all the parts out and smashed it to pieces.

Biggest load of crap i have ever heard but its cool I bought a dell and much better than anything i have ever bought from hp.

I will never buy hp anything or will i let my company or family and friends.
I have never seen a company that says i dont care if its bad manufacturing you fix it. Thats just bad business.

There is a class action going on with a firm but ill have to get the name again. I think thats our best bet.

It has become obvious that hp could care less when they take good money for a product that isnt even worth 2 cents if it does not work.

they don't care about the people they do business with so good luck but hp could care less if you ever buy from them again i guess?

I know i never will and i upgrade atleast 3 laptops every year for my nursery.

anyway thats my story and im sticking to it. The only way ill even try hp again is if they give it to me.

I wish I found this forum 6 mos ago. I had the same problem with my R3000. It started out with the battery charging intermittently and got to the point where the AC input would not work. I paid $150 to get it fixed by compaq & now I am angry to find out that is was poor workmanship that caused the problem in the first place. I think they should be made to reimburse all of us for our time and expense in fixing their screw up. I could understand if it was caused by normal wear & tear and I would have no problem paying for that, but when it is a design flaw and they refuse to take responsibility then that is a different story.

For what it's worth, I had the same problem happen to me right after the warranty expired. As it turned out, I had a new company laptop to use. New job now, back to my Compaq and it seems I have no choice but to fix this myself.

I'll never buy a HP product again.

HP caled me back the next day, but I was out of town. They haven't called again, so I am presuming that they are not eager to tell me that they intend to charge me to fix my PC.

At any rate, my husband put a little more solder on the middle pin, and although the power light doesn't come on, I've been on AC power for a week and the unit is working fine.

I would still urge everyone on this blog to write to their State Attorney General's office and chronicle this issue. Attach some of the comments on this blog, and give them the URL. If enough people complain, these guys take action.

Having the same trouble with my Presario R3000. Am going to attemp to fix myself. Upset that company will not take responsiblity on this issue! Please contact me if you pursue legal actions.

I would like to add my thanks to all who assisted with this problem. My R3140CA started having this problem several months ago.
Ripped her apart last night and it appears to be fixed.
One question, why are there ALWAYS a couple of extra screws left over when it's done?