Compaq Presario R3000 power cord issue - Page 7

The solution in this thread worked for me. I offer my thanks to the contributors.

I bought the Media Cable and my computer is now working like new. I highly recommend the cable if you can find it.

BTW. I meant to say deeds not deads lol, that sounded creepy.

hi again Que. No skeletons around here so far lol. (besides the laptop)
Well, I tried the AC on with the new battery on and basically The short on the ac forces the laptop to shut down 2 to 3 secs after I press power. Just like always when it's plugged to AC. So a new board it is... jezz... Thanks for that info m8. Great chatting with you!

Check out this site about a class action suit covering the power connection problem being discussed.

http://www.hpnotebooksettlement.com/

I found this the day after I experienced the dreaded power connection failure. I was successful in taking mine apart and soldering it. But I did have 5 screws left over after I got it back together.

I've decided to get a new laptop and then send my R3000 in for repair.

No need for a new power adapter, the old one fits right into the xc1000 cable.

Thanks to this forum and others, I have successfully restored power with voltage at the jack pins, and the docking port. I was so happy when it was back together, lightning bolt came on, then *bam*, it went back out. I have power when connected to AC, but not when running battery only. I am assuming it is a battery issue, but I haven't tested the pins in the battery compartment for voltage. Will do that tonight.

Ok, so one problem may be solved, but now, I get the following message:

"Disk read error Press control+alt+delete to restart"

I did, and nothing changes, same message. I am hoping this is a simple fix and that my HD isn't blown, perhaps a cable connection or something simple? Any input from this group would be greatly appreciated!

I have an Compaq R3000 with similar power issues.

The fun is not spinning out of control, the CPU doesn't seem to be overheating but it shuts off when running on both battery and charger or battery alone. It works fine when using battery charger alone but the minute I plug in the battery it shuts off.

When I plug in the charger with the battery installed, the power light comes on and stays on for 5 seconds, then goes off. So, for what ever reason the battery cannot be charged by the power supply and the computer cannot run on battery (it shuts off).

What could be the problem? I have purchased a new power cord and that's exhibiting the same problem so I've ruled that out. I don't want to spend a fortune on battery if that will also not fix the problem.

Any Ideas?

I think it's the battery but I'm not sure and I have no way of testing the battery to make sure it works.

hi all , newbie member with similar power cord problems, tried replacing the ac adaptor with a new one , it worked for a couple of days then stopped , have taken the laptop apart and resoldered as per instructions given on previous messages , still no joy , however here is where my problem is slightly different
i can use my dads ac adaptor for a compaq 2500 to run on ac power , i have to take the battery out for it to work and if i want to charge the battery i have to close the machine down , the specs ac adaptor on my dads is 18.5 volts ,current 4.9 amps power 90 watts, the specs on ac adaptor for my compaq r3000 18.5volts,current 6.9 amps power 120 watts, i have brought my adaptor to a pc shop and had it tested and have been told that it is working , so that it leads me to believe that it is the jack on the adaptor that goes into the back of the laptop that is faulty???any thoughts or suggestions ???the machine is 4 years old works fine with my dads adaptor and have never had any other poblems with , at this stage it is getting a little frustrating to say the least
anyone out there who could offer possible solutions apart form smacking the thing with a hammer !!

thanks in advance

So I took it apart. Had a few troubles with some screws being stuck. And the videos really helped (http://h20181.www2.hp.com/plmcontent/NACSC/SML/results.htm?SID=384511&MEID=F2DAF231-84E4-4AE7-BE71-BB1CA8A20D6A)

I absolutely sucked at the soldering process and was scared that I had ruined things.
I couldn't get a good shiny solder, and kept retrying. The circuit board was becoming a darker green where I was applying the heat and I think it melted a bit maybe. I really should have taken a before and after picture.
But it back together again. Half broke off the LED cable from the circuit board when putting it back together.
(See the system board video, at 2:50 to see which part I mean)
At the time I wasn't sure what it was I had broken. And was really worried. Thought it was for my touchpad, but that was the ZIF cable next to it.
Put it back together, 2 extra small screws, and a few I mixed around.
Started it up off battery just to see if it was broken. It booted up, touchpad worked, noticed the LED lights weren't on. Put two and two together.
Breaking that LED receptor for the cable isn't a big deal right? I taped it, guess that didnt work.

So then plugged in the power source, booted it up, was running off battery.
Frustrated, and at midnight, I went to bed.
Up at 5:30 for work, turned it on to get a better idea. It does the flicker from power source to battery as before.
And putting pressure on the cord does keep the laptop connected to power source. Same problem as before.

Am going to order a power jack online. Take it apart again when I get the new power jack. And this time take my motherboard and the power jack to a shop where they know how to use a soldering iron hahaha.

Down but not out,
Geoff

Airbus, check with your original power supply attached if you get any voltage on the most left and most left copper contacts of the docking port. If so, the jack is ok.
It won't run with your higher rated power supply, but will with the lower rated one, even without battery in?

Logman, if you have a pentium, it seems the pin needs to be soldered on both sides of the board.

NanoDuke, if the computer runs ok off the adapter, the joints are good, no need to re-solder. One contact of the battery bay should read more, about 15 volts if I remember right. The other ones give a lower read, that's normal.
If another set of contacts gives the 15 volts, your battery might be at the end of it's life. Could also be something crapping out in the power circuitry regulating the charging of the battery.
If you have a 120watts adapter, you might get better results using a 135 watt one, but no guarantee that you will. First check if you can see a higher voltage on the other contacts.

Generic ones, not to fond of those myself. Often specs are overrated, and for the price, you can get a HP one off ebay.
Before you get another one, check for those voltages @ the battery bay contacts. If you can't get 15V there, another adapter won't help I'm afraid.

Hello,

I'm new here and I'm dutch; so excuse is my english is not correct.
I am very happy with this forum, because my Compaq R3039EA had the same powerconection problems.
It costs me about 3 hours to do the repair (resoldering); so in this way I don't have to spend money for a new mobo.
Thanks a lot to everybody.

Han

No, only that xc1000 or a docking station.

Hey,,,i fixed it myself,,,only took off the bottom corner panel where the power jack is ,,taped off a small square in the silver area above the jack and cut it out with a dremel,,this allowed me to put a drop of solder on the worn pin,,,easy and quick

Ah yeah! I can easily try and test the individual cells.
Coolies

I've also had the power jack problem on a zv5000, purchased from eBay from someone I suspect knew about the problem (sold as having a speaker fault only). I got the xc1000 cable this morning and at first it seemed to give the same, well documented unsustained charging problems as the original AC adapter through the power jack. I removed the battery to test if it worked on just AC power (it did), replaced the battery without bothering to power down and its been charging for the past hour via the xc1000 cable.

Anyway, what I wanted to ask is does anyone know what the little pin-headed screws either side of the expansion port are called, and where to get them from. They definitely help hold the xc1000 cable in place but I also wondered if they carry the AC current from the cable into the laptop. The @$*! who sold me this laptop has replaced one of these screws with an ordinary cross-head screw! The cable seems to work but if these 'pin-head' screws carry charge I'd prefer to get a replacement to ensure good electrical contact.

I am editing this message in hopes that SOMEONE might try to read the voltages present at the pins on the battery connector, maybe by running with no battery, and using a digital voltmeter to read the voltage present on the pins. I am trying to find which pin the charging voltage should appear on; I would expect it to be in the +15 volt range.....and also what pin is ground. As I have indicated below, my problem was the same as everyone else's (basically in this whole thread), but after resoldering the power connector, my laptop works flawlessly on AC power, but I have no "lightning bolt" on, and the battery shows no charge.

I would be very grateful if someone could post their findings from a WORKING Compaq R3000.

Thanks to all!






Could someone please tell me the pin layout for the battery connector in the Presario R3000?
Like so many other people, I have had to repair the power connector problem on my machine. I would certainly like to thank everyone who posted their experiences on this problem on this forum for the benefit of others. I am an ex telecom worker, so I do computer repair as a hobby/sideline while semi-retired.
The dismantling, soldering of the loose power cord connector went very well ( I did it about a year ago), but I do not get a charge light on the front of the machine; and it won't run at ALL on the battery. ( I have NO idea of the condition of the battery), so I'd like to first of all determine if charging voltage is where is should be on the connector. I do have 19.89 Volts present on the expansion bay contacts.

I have also had a very intermittent problem of losing the wireless feature on the R3000. The cause is the contact strip that connects the motherboard to the small circuit board containing the sound and wireless buttons. I think I have solved that one by removing the motherboard, and also the small "audio and wireless button board"...and then placing about a .005 thickness washer on each of the 2 standoffs and reinstalling the small card. The purpose of the washers is to slightly elevate the card to make the contact much firmer with the motherboard when it is screwed down. Doing this does not interfere with the operation of the various buttons. ( examine the soldering on the small card while you can: I touched up several bad (cold) joints on it as well, but the wireless ones were ok). So far, so good; I have not lost the wireless since that operation.

As an ex Telecom tech here in Alberta, HP test gear used to really GOOD equipment. That was back then; this is NOW. I am having to deal with all manner of HP screw-ups, especially in their all in one printer BLOATED software. I used to recommend HP hardware, but now I am not so sure. GEE, I wonder if letting "off-shore" companies produce almost EVERYTHING we NEED is such a smart idea??? Better not get into the politics of THAT one....
Thanks agin....GREAT forum!!!

I need some troubleshooting. I have the same problem.
When I plug it in, it sometimes works, but I have to cram it in and shove it to one side and hold it there to make it work. Merely plugging it in and then moving it when I discover it didn't work won't work. The direction I have to shove it varies in any direction, and seems to change while I have it plugged in and working. I've tried pushing the surrounding pins in so it's a tighter fit, hoping this would fix it, but alas, to no avail. I really do not want to have to completely disassemble the laptop to find that wasn't the solution to my problem.

HI Can someone tell me if this will solve the Compaq Presario R3000 cord issue? Does this bypass the power jack in the back that is loose or not? I can't tell by looking at it on line. I hoped someone here might know.

HP Notebook Quickdock

http://www.shopping.hp.com/product [...] AA%2523ABA

Thank you very much,

Kathy

yes. I tried taking it apart a few times. I've noticed some kind of blue stuff on the screws. I guess they.. GLUED THEM IN?!!!! Seriously, who glues the screws in?

Put it against a wall or something so you save a thumb, serious, you really want to know if moving the plug will cut off power. ps get the battery out while testing.
If you take out the keyboard, and cut away the metal part most right where the plug is, you might be able to re-solder the pins. Someone here did, not a job to do if you are not experienced in soldering. You only have to touch the wrong part (smd's) and they stick right to your iron.

3 of the 4 are ground pins, which also secure the jack to the board. See "Laptops Restored"'s pics higher on this page.