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I finally decided to pull my R3000 out of the closet and try to fix it -- Had problems with it charging right after i bought it.. got frustrated and tossed it in the closet
Now i need a laptop for some software in my car.. so time to fix it
I replaced the connector on the laptop, but that didn't solve the problem...
I'm thinking about just attaching the cable directly to the mobo and calling it a day or something along those lines
Anywho, which pin is the positive, and which 3 are the negative ones?
I assume the center one is the positive... and the others are negative
I'm looking at a friends non-bootable R3000. It has a flashing lightning bolt but does not respond to a power button press. I measured the voltage coming off the power supply and it seems to be correct 18.5 Volts. I measured the power at the docking station interface as described earlier in the thread and the voltage is only 14 Volts. Could this be a symptom of the known issue of the poor connection on the board or more likely a degraded component on the board ? I'd appreciate any comments...
After 3 failed attempts to solder by a opening I created on the top of the mother board over the power connection, I finally solved my problems with a big bill of 2$ !
I'll post pictures later but here's what I did...
When to my local electronic shop, bought:
- Female connector for my power cord.
- an 8 pins connector
- Some wires
The 8 pins connector fits perfectly in the Expansion Port. Kept the first and last pin.
Soldered the female connector to wire to connector.
Ground is on left, Positive on right.
Works like a charm!!!
I too gave up on the jack after 2 failed repair attempts. So I jury-rigged the expansion connector with parts from Radio Shack and it's now working good.
I have 2 post-mortem observations to share:
- I had replaced the entire motherboard with one from eBay (laptop aid). The replacement board had the same damn problem - wiggling the chord made the lightning bolt flicker on and off. So after I touched up the 4 solder points, I could not get the lightning bolt to light up at all. Did I fry something? I honestly thought I had not over heated the points and had certainly improved the integrity of the connection. What gives!?
- (this may have been discussed, but... ) I'm guessing that the expansion port is not designed to supply power, which is why the lightning bolt does not light up. It also behaves badly (powers off spontaneously) when the battery is installed. But hey, for $4 in parts and not having to take it all apart again, I'LL TAKE IT!
- Dan C.
after I plug through the expansion port, it behaves normally:
charges the battery and lights up the lightning bolt.
Did you purchase the plug to connect through the expansion port ? Can you tell me where and maybe a part number ?
No, what I purchased is an 8 pin connector that looks like this:
http://rocky.digikey.com/weblib/CT [...] SERIES.jpg
The width fits perfectly in the expansion port
I think this is it:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/ [...] 5800-08-ND
or look in catalogue, page 160 (not pdf page) fig 1.
Thanks intelmic,
So with this connector you soldered wires to connect to your power supply ? I believe it's the two outer most connections that I should supply power to:
X111111X
yup, and for safety, I removed the 2nd and 7th. You do it by simply heating the metal pin and you will be able to slide it out of it's plastic socket.
So it looks like this:
Negative pin; empty; pin; pin; pin; pin; empty; positive pin
It fits perfectly on width and to make it really tight on height, I put a single electric tape over the 4 center pins so it wont jiggle (and at the same type, protecting the interior of the expansion port)
| brougham wrote : I'm looking at a friends non-bootable R3000. It has a flashing lightning bolt but does not respond to a power button press. I measured the voltage coming off the power supply and it seems to be correct 18.5 Volts. I measured the power at the docking station interface as described earlier in the thread and the voltage is only 14 Volts. Could this be a symptom of the known issue of the poor connection on the board or more likely a degraded component on the board ? I'd appreciate any comments... |
A little late answer, but I get the same voltage on the docking port pins as the adapter gives. Is this with your battery in, it looks like your 14 volts come from the battery and not from the adapter? What do you read with the battery removed?
| intelmic wrote : I think this is it:
|
can you please post some pics of your finished product ?
Thanks
| dcaputi wrote : I too gave up on the jack after 2 failed repair attempts. So I jury-rigged the expansion connector with parts from Radio Shack and it's now working good.
|
I replaced the entire DC power conecter make sure you use pleanty of solder I used about a map pins worth of solder on each post and my machine is now 100%. A bit of advice Iistead of makein a map for all the srews I just taped them in their respective holes or next too their hole this worked really well and I had no lost screws when I put the computer back together
The DC power port cost me 10.00 dollars U.S. and the soldering iron was 12.00, solder was 1.95. Just have patients when you clean the connectors I put the solder iron right on the board around each pin hole to clean out the old solder. This works and when I disected the dc coupler sure enough it was cracked. This is a good computer and why Compaq would not step up is a mystery. I like the computer but will never by another Compaq/HP due to the lack of support, which is a really stupid reason to lose a customer over!!! The Ronin
Anybody ever heard of comprehensivecomputing.com
They say they repair the jacks or replace them for $99 plus the shipping, anyone use them? They sound legit.
I have a problem that I have never been able to resolve, so I am wondering if the symptoms are similar enough. My R3240US randomly shuts off, not shuts down, but instant power cut. When I say random, there does not seem to be a pattern to work with. Sometimes I can run the laptop for hours, other times it shuts off repeatedly.
I have tried numerous other R3240 AC adapters, all of which work just fine on other units. Sometimes it does shut down when the laptop is under increased activity, yet it will also shut down when just idle as well.
If this happens when running from the battery only too, download and run memtest86, looks like memory failure.
| Que wrote : If this happens when running from the battery only too, download and run memtest86, looks like memory failure. |
I ran the standard test, one pass this time and found no problems. I now remember running this long time ago with numerous passes without errors.
| sbn wrote : I ran the standard test, one pass this time and found no problems. I now remember running this long time ago with numerous passes without errors. |
Have you unchecked the box "automatically reboot" at system failure, in the start-up and recovery setting? (rightclick my computer - properties - advanced)
Does this happen when running off battery only?
| Que wrote : Have you unchecked the box "automatically reboot" at system failure, in the start-up and recovery setting? (rightclick my computer - properties - advanced)
|
This is OS independent. Previously I had both Windows and Linux, and it not only will occur in both, but this will also happen before the OS loads. Sometimes before even the boot screen. Besides, this is not a reboot, but a sudden shut off, just as if I pull the power cord with no battery. And this will happen regardless of having any battery in (I have batteries for this, one was never used).
Pardon my english, I'm from the Netherlands, what I meant was, does this also happens when running only from the battery power, without an ac adapter attached?
| Que wrote : Pardon my english, I'm from the Netherlands, what I meant was, does this also happens when running only from the battery power, without an ac adapter attached? |
Yes, in fact the first thing I did was try it out without the AC adapter, because I thought it was the AC adapter doing this. Well much to my disappointment it shut off repeatedly with just the battery.
After the obvious things, like reseating / diagnosing memory sticks, reseating cpu (damn those screw-secured pentiums) and re-applying thermal paste, checking harddisk connection, checking on/off switch, what more can one do.
| Que wrote : After the obvious things, like reseating / diagnosing memory sticks, reseating cpu (damn those screw-secured pentiums) and re-applying thermal paste, checking harddisk connection, checking on/off switch, what more can one do. |
Hey guys,
I got ALL the way down to the motherboard. I was looking at the shiny silver "box/shield" that was covering the power port. I didn't see anything wrong or disconnected there...
On the other side I saw 3 very tiny goldish/silverish looking nubs. They didn't look like anyhtig i've seen in the pictures in this thread. I have the AMD version of this laptop.
I don't know where to solder! What should i do??? Everything looks okay... but I know my power port isn't connecting to the battery/laptop.
Thanks
There's 3 contacts in a row, those are the negatives and also keep the jack in place. Opposite the middle one is the positive connection, follow the lead from the jack through the motherboard and you'll see.
Hi Guys. Have got the same power cord issue on my R3000 laptop; Have replaced the jack by a new one from ebay but steel no luck. What happens is that before reassembling the laptop i have connected the AC adapter to the new soldered jack for testing purpose, the fans goes ok; have disconnected the ac adapter and reconnected it just to be sure and here nothing happens (the fans doesn't speed up..). After that i disconnected the ac adapter and connected the battery and the fans speed up.
So finally I'm with a laptop wich works fine with battery BUT won't boot up with the ac adapter???
I'm pretty sure the jack soldering is enough good,
what may be the problem and is there something else to test.
Thanks.
Eddy, see if there is power on the most left and most right contacts of the docking port connector. If not, the ac-in jack is not good. It was mentioned by someone in this thread that pentiums require soldering of the central pin of the jack on both sides of the mainboard.
After cheking there is no power on the most left and most right contacts of the docking port connector (0 volt).
By the way it's an AMD CPU.
Finally fixed. Have connected the ac adapter cord to the expansion port (the most right and most left pins..) and now the laptop is working like a charm. By the way the charging battery led is also working , so absolutely no problems.
Thanks for everybody.
Hey so I finally did it. I had a friend help with the soldering...
We basically used a braid to melt off the solder on the 4 nubs. Then we gave it little tugs and the old AC jack came out.
I had to make the holes slightly larger so the new one would slip in all the way. I eventually slipped in nice and snug, and then I used very thin rosin-core solder from radio shack to completely cover the nubs. (it was REALLY hard... it wanted to make little shiny silver spheres and would roll around - it took work to get it to sit on the nubs and smush it down a bit). I also smushed a solder-sphere into the top on the positive node so that i had solder on both sides.
So anyway, the job wasn't professional, but it was definitely satisfactory.
Bad news though.. STILL SAME PROBLEM! I'm happy the motherbaord didn't catch fire... but still... the battery doesn't charge when I plug it in. When I press power button, the "lightning bolt" light just blinks as if the battery was saying "charge me".
What else can I try?
I will also mention, it might have been pointless for me to replace the AC jack. The original was soldered REALLY well... and was snug and didn't budge. Maybe my problem is with something else... i've already spent 8+ hours on this laptop and I'm so determined - i need to fix it!
joeman I 'm pretty sure the only solution you have is to connect your ac adapter to the expansion port (the most left and most right pins..)
To all with the Presario R3000. The problem is the lousey soldering job the Chinese did when they attached the power unit onto the motherboard. I fixed my problem for $9.00.. You need a good soldering iron and have to do some minor cutting underneath the plate above the keyboard to the right. There, you will see the solder points that need to be re-soldered. I fixed my computer 1 1/2 years ago and it works great. Yes, as some mentioned on this post, you can by-pass this by using the all-in-one media plug to the right side of the laptop. But $9.00 is alot less expensive then the $$$ I'm reading these plugs cost.
Compaq/HP know of this problem.. Yet, they have refused to fix as this would have been a tremendous expense for them.....
This was a very poorly designed unit. What happens is the power cord plug while plugged into the laptop gets bumped and bends the metal contacts in the laptop. I was able to fix mine with a pair of tweezers although this will undoubtedly happen again so I bought a piece of 1/8" finish plywood (you can buy 2ft square from home depot for about ten bucks) I cut it about 4" wider and 2" deeper then my laptop then made corners and platforms to to secure and raise laptop for better ventilation I also made a swivel device to secure the cord. I used a two part epoxy to glue all parts together. This works very well and should make your laptop last a lot longer as it will keep it well ventilated you can also, as I did make a holder for your mouse to the right (or left) of lap top. This solves any future problems with power connection makes your laptop more comfortable to use, and makes it truly usable as a LAP top.
| Que wrote : Eddy, see if there is power on the most left and most right contacts of the docking port connector. If not, the ac-in jack is not good. It was mentioned by someone in this thread that pentiums require soldering of the central pin of the jack on both sides of the mainboard. |
does anyone have a picture of where to solder? thanks
| Wolfman57 wrote : To all with the Presario R3000. The problem is the lousey soldering job the Chinese did when they attached the power unit onto the motherboard. I fixed my problem for $9.00.. You need a good soldering iron and have to do some minor cutting underneath the plate above the keyboard to the right. There, you will see the solder points that need to be re-soldered. I fixed my computer 1 1/2 years ago and it works great. Yes, as some mentioned on this post, you can by-pass this by using the all-in-one media plug to the right side of the laptop. But $9.00 is alot less expensive then the $$$ I'm reading these plugs cost.
|
wolfman,
can you help me identify the solder points on the MB? Are they the 3 horizontal points right inside from the power port and then the 1 single point vertical down from the middle 3 points (if that makes any sense) thanks
sean
| sys2021 wrote : I have owned a Compaq Presario R3000 for about 2 years now and I've been having this extremely annoying issue lately.
|
DEAR R3000 OWNER. BEEN THERE, DONE THAT. THE R3000 IS AMONG THE WORST OF MANY LAPTOPS THAT EXPERIENCE THIS PROBLEM. YOU HAVE TO REPLACE THE SMALL RECIEVER UNIT INSIDE THE CASE OF THE COMPUTER THAT RECIEVES THE METAL LEAD FROM THE POWER CORD. ITS ABOUT $30 FOR THE PART, PLUS 1.5 HOURS LABOR. ONCE YOU HAVE THE OLD RECIEVER PART REPLACED AND THE COMPUTER IS WORKING NORMALLY - DON'T MOVE THE COMPUTER ANY MORE THAN YOU HAVE TO OR IT WILL BEGIN TO FAIL AGAIN! ITS JUST A BAD DESIGN.
[i][/i]
Rod
Your explanations and links to the manual are great!!! THANK YOU!!! NOW as I am truly an amateur and all the 'local' guys say send it back to Compaq (who have quoted me a start price $200 no guarantees and all onus and liability on me). I am willing to have a go.
BUT I would love to be able to look at your links below so I can SEE what I am about. Have managed to for the most part pull the laptop apart, but chickened out and put it all back together again. Could you please send me the updated working links!! OR alternatively send the file to my email address entuchano@iname.com.
I now figure having a go myself is better than having an anchor (though my husband might appreciate a new one for the boat LOL)
Thanks in advance and much appreciated
Tracey
The entire repair took about 4 hours, with breaks and a few brews. I would not trust anyone else to do it. Most of the time was just figgerin' out how to do it from the manual. Actual work was about an hour. I used a weller WE550 soldering station, Temperature set at 73.
Ripped apart link
http://206.130.101.158/pictures/Ripped%20Apart.jpg
Solder Here Link
http://206.130.101.158/pictures/Solder_Here.jpg
Sound On/Off Button Resolder Link
http://206.130.101.158/pictures/So [...] Solder.jpg
Rod[/quotemsg]
Hi guys
Thanks for the reply, but what I need is working links to the following.
Would love the illustrations so I can follow them but I keep getting a "HTTP404 Website not found error"
Thanks in advance for some working links.
Tracey
Ripped apart link
http://206.130.101.158/pictures/Ripped%20Apart.jpg
Solder Here Link
http://206.130.101.158/pictures/Solder_Here.jpg
Sound On/Off Button Resolder Link
http://206.130.101.158/pictures/So [...] Solder.jpg
| Tracey59 wrote : Hi guys
|
HP removed the dis-assembly video's, probably afraid someone would take it as proof of the production failure issue with this model.
| Que wrote : HP removed the dis-assembly video's, probably afraid someone would take it as proof of the production failure issue with this model. |
Didn't realize they were HPs own videos...hmmm....why do they need to put up a rpr video if it isn't a systemic problem!!!
Well I am going to pull the back off and have another go. But now when I try to start it up I have a blank screen!!! No lights, not writing, nothing!!
Have taken the HD out and tested it using a USB case on another computer and it appears to be working OK, so it isn't that. Would RAM prevent it 'lighting' up??? Am thinking that there is nothing wrong with the screen itself as it all worked fine (apart from the power cord problem) before I pulled it appart to try and fix that.
ANY help appreciated, or suggestions of other things to try to test the screen.
OH did plug in a external screen using the cable, but didn't wokr either, but I am not sure if you have to press something on the Compaq to make it use an external monitor or if it will automatically do so if once is plugged in to the back screen socket.
THANKS HEAPS
Tracey
Also how the hell do you get the Forcecon Heatsink off. I have removed every screw i can find but the blasted thing wont budge!!!
AAAGGGGHHH
I'd pay someone if it didn't cost more than the blasted thing is worth as I really LIKE this laptop.
By removing the 4 spring screws. Wiggle it a bit, dried out thermal paste seems your issue, re-apply fresh paste when assembling again. The cpu itself is fixed by a lever (amd) or a single screw (intel).
No screen on startup is bad. Memory (main- or video-) failure (change, try per stick if 2 sticks are mounted), or a dead cpu can be the cause.
ps. try Fn-key + F4 key (switch screen)?
Thanks. Well tried removing both RAM sticks and seeing if one or other made a difference. Didn't so assume they are OK. SO HD, RAM OK.
IS the video card a part of motherboard or separate.
Looks like if another compnonent is shot, it is going to be TOO expensive to repair. $200 + parts is the best quote I have had. I've tried giving the forcecon a good wiggle after leaving on so it would all warm up and hopefully the glue would soften...no such luck, so have decided best to pay someone who KNOWS what they are doing. But want a bit of fore knowledge so I don't get ripped off. ie tell me the mb needs replacing when it is only a video card (separately). ALso figure they have more equipment to test each component.
Minimum charge $99....and they will quote complete repair job. SO min cost $99 max cost??? NEW laptop some time n the future. Don't have the funds now, so wil just have to make do.
THANKS for your answer and for all your help
Tracey
I would save the money, sell the parts, and buy a used working laptop.
Hi,
I also have a R3000 and it is beginning to develop the same power cord problem. I have been following this very confusing thread and I still do not know how to solve the problem. Could someone send a functioning link to a site that has photographic detail on the soldering required to resolve this issue. I do not want to take the R3000 apart so I will be looking for one the suggested shortcut.
Also has anyone attempted to take the expansion slot apart to gain access to the internal power points.
I contacted HP and attempted to get info from them on the pin configuration of the expansion slot but I was given the run around. If you examine the slot there are two copper coloured parts each at either end. I am assuming that they are the power points but which is the input and which the outout.
I am in Scotland and I can get parts from a company called Maplin.
Thanks for all your help in this.
Joe
| sir_ganavar wrote : DEAR R3000 OWNER. BEEN THERE, DONE THAT. THE R3000 IS AMONG THE WORST OF MANY LAPTOPS THAT EXPERIENCE THIS PROBLEM. YOU HAVE TO REPLACE THE SMALL RECIEVER UNIT INSIDE THE CASE OF THE COMPUTER THAT RECIEVES THE METAL LEAD FROM THE POWER CORD. ITS ABOUT $30 FOR THE PART, PLUS 1.5 HOURS LABOR. ONCE YOU HAVE THE OLD RECIEVER PART REPLACED AND THE COMPUTER IS WORKING NORMALLY - DON'T MOVE THE COMPUTER ANY MORE THAN YOU HAVE TO OR IT WILL BEGIN TO FAIL AGAIN! ITS JUST A BAD DESIGN. |
I have the same problem. I plug the cord in and out a few time until I have power. I will have power from 5 min to a few hours. I do see it is getting worse so I will need to have it fixed. I did find a sponsor at the bottom of the page that states they will fix it for $99.00 with a lifetime garantee. Sounds pretty good.
http://comprehensivecomputing.net/ [...] ir.htm#faq
Has anyone tried them? i think it is worth a shot since I do like my R3000. I have been using this PC for 6 years now without a problem.
| r3000guy wrote : Hi,
|
Pin layout and port connector is described some posts up on this page.
In my opinion, Joe, pay for the sponsor to do it. After I pulled mine apart to 'have a go', found the forcecon glued solidly and rather than risk breaking the motherboard decided I would get someone to fix it for me. Then when I went to power up, no screen, so either I wrecked something else, OR another problem just coincidentally happened.
The DIAGRAMATICS for soldering have been removed, the link is dead. I believe in a previous link someone said they were from a HP site, guess they no longer wish to be seen as showing that this IS a MAJOR issue with this laptop.
GOOD LUCK, looks like mine is now going to be a 'sell for parts' job.
THink I might pay the guys $99 for a quote first, because I can't afford to spend the money to get another decent even 2nd hand one (which may come with its own issues).
THANKS to all who tried to help
Tracey
| Que wrote : Pin layout and port connector is described some posts up on this page. |
Hi,
Thanks for responding. Is that the layout from left to right. If I am looking at the side of the r3000 the negative is on the extreme left. THanks.
joe
You are welcome.
Yes, negative on the left. If you can get any power in over the regular dc-in jack (maybe by holding the dc-in plug from the adapter in a certain position) you can also measure that voltage on that docking port connector.
If you have power on the docking port and it is not dropping when you move the adapter's plug to the laptop, the problem is somewhere else.
Greetings everyone, Im sorry for skipping the entire 9 pages of this thread. I will go now my problem at hand.
I plugged in the battery to charged it then I noticed the thunder light is blinking, usually when charging the light is steady so I immediately removed the battery and switch on the laptop...but it wont switched on, I put the battery back with the light blinking again push the power button, the power light seemed to be lit but right after I removed my finger from pushing the power button the power light is no longer lit and the thunder light is blinking all the way.
any idea what could be wrong with my laptop?
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