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2014 Mazda5 Sport: Say Hello To Tom's Hardware's Project Car
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1. A Car That Smiles At You

Over the past two years we’ve covered new vehicles with detailed reviews. Our first automotive story happened more than two years ago with SYNC With MyFord Touch: Automotive Infotainment For All, and we’ve written about everything from crossover competitions to rally racing and high-end luxury vehicles since then.

But clearly, this is Tom's Hardware. Our readers are enthusiasts. And we know you enjoy working on your own technology. The need to tinker runs deep, whether you're dropping in a new graphics card, flashing the newest nightly ROM release for your phone, or upgrading your own car.

This devotion to do-it-yourself is why I purchased a brand new vehicle to use as a platform for our own upgrades and modifications. For as much as we have driving the latest vehicles, automotive technology continues to lag behind mobile devices by years. We're only just now seeing Nvidia's Tegra 2 show up in a mass-produced vehicle as Audi introduces its 2015 A3 sedan.

I take the comments left by you, our readers, to heart with every story I publish. And there is a definite contingent of folks who believe that cellphones and aftermarket devices better serve enthusiasts than the factories manufacturing the cars we review.

Without further ado, I’d like to introduce the very first Tom’s Hardware project car, a 2014 Mazda5 Sport micro van. Why on earth would I choose a micro van as the basis of our project car? Aside from the two kids I have to haul around (plus the occasional fifth or sixth passenger), I'm also an enthusiast who enjoys driving. I needed some sort of compromise there.

The Mazda5 is based on Ford's global C1 platform that underpins the 3, Volvo S40, V50, C70, C30, Ford Transit Connect, Escape, Focus, and a couple of other vehicles. At its heart, the 5 is essentially an extended and taller Mazda3 hatchback with sliding doors and seating for six. Mazda’s driving dynamics remain intact, offering excellent throttle and steering response, plus suspension tuning that is comfortable, yet engaging. Of course, the cherry on top of this micro van sundae is the six-speed manual transmission.

There is a downside, however, and that is Mazda’s Nagare styling language that was applied across the line-up when the 5 was updated in 2012. The car looks extremely happy, but I'm not fond of the aesthetic. The previous-generation (2004-2010) Mazda5 looked better on the outside. But the new generation's interior is a massive upgrade, and that's where we spend our time.

We bought the car a month ago and have already logged more than 1000 miles on it. The exterior remains stock, except for window tint all around. Mazda's emblems are spray-painted dark gray with Plasti Dip, and the Mazda5 badge on the tailgate was removed. 

Since this is our first project car, I'll make this story a bulk update with all of the little changes made to it, including the installation of an integrated Qi wireless charger, a backup camera, a dash cam, an iPad 2 for rear-seat entertainment purposes, and LED headlights. 

2. Barebones: Light On Tech, Plus An Economical Powertrain

The Mazda5's interior is sparse. Its most advanced technology option is a USB port for playing MP3s from a flash drive. Needless to say, navigating music folders without an LCD display is absolutely terrible. The little readout above the center vents always shows the folder number first, before the folder name or track data. Even with 8 GB of music, you'll quickly get annoyed flipping through the folders and waiting to see what's playing. I simply can't imagine suffering through that experience with a larger library of songs.

However, the vehicle's basic technology package is why this is a perfect project car candidate. The head unit can be swapped out for something aftermarket compatible with the double DIN form factor, and the steering wheel controls are easily integrated with third-party adapters. Again, we have a couple of head unit reviews planned that'll drop into the Mazda5 as a reference platform.

Moving out of the cockpit and into the engine compartment, we find Mazda's corporate MZR 2.5 L inline-four engine powering the microvan. This motor did its duty in a lot of Mazda and Ford vehicles over the last decade. Ford's Duratec 2.5 L is identical, serving as the base motor in its Fusion, Transit Connect, and Escape. The powertrain is simple, and confers proven reliability. Gasoline direct injection is, unfortunately, not on the engine's list of features.

The MZR is rated at 157 hp and 163 lb-ft, which is pretty typical for an economy cars. Unlike the lighter second-generation Mazda3, the MZR has an extra 369 pounds to move around in the Mazda5. That weight is worth adding though, if only for the sliding doors. Mated to the motor is a six-speed manual transmission, one of the main reasons I chose the car.

As a manual wagon with sliding doors, our Mazda5 is essentially the automotive journalist and enthusiast special. Let’s be honest: the company probably sells very few Mazda5s set up like this to the general family car-buying public. Regardless, I love it for its uniqueness and fun factor.

3. Dismantling A Qi Wireless Charger

Ever since wireless charging debuted a couple of years ago, I thought it'd be the perfect application for in-car use. Toyota thought so too; it includes Qi wireless charging in the optional $1950 Technology Package when you buy a top-rung Avalon Limited. For those of you unfamiliar with Qi, it's the interface standard for inductive electrical power transfer from a transmission pad to a device with a compatible receiver. The phone I currently use, Google's Nexus 5, does in fact support Qi. 

As you might imagine, every car is different, so finding the perfect spot for a wireless charger varies on a case by case basis. Many vehicles come with pockets and cubbies capable of accommodating your phone, so a suitable spot should exist. When we bought the Mazda5, we noticed that the little slot below the shifter fit my Nexus 5 perfectly.

Naturally, my first choice of wireless charger to dismantle and install was Google's official offering, since it integrates little magnets to help keep the phone in place. After completely dismantling it and getting it ready for the car, I ran into a problem. The Google Qi charger is too thick; it would have required removing the USB port and auxiliary input, leaving a giant hole in the panel.

Alright, so I'd need something slimmer. Adata stepped up and sent its Elite CE700 wireless charging stand, which sells for $50. There are less expensive options available on eBay, but this wasn't a job I wanted to go cheap on.

The CE700 receives power through a micro-USB port, so it became necessary to hard-wire a connector for the stand. That's where EDO Tech Supply comes into play. The company is the only one I could find with a micro-USB adapter. Its current rating is 1.2 A, which comes close to the CE700's 1 A output.

Here's where the fun begins. You have to completely dismantle the CE700 to get its charging coil. I ran a flat-head screwdriver along charger's seam. Since the chassis gets tossed out anyway, there's no real need to be gentle with it. You won't find any screws holding the case together; rather, it's secured by plastic snaps. With the cover off, you'll see that the coil is held into place with glue. Gently pry the charging coil off (the metal back area) and toss out the casing.

At this point, you'll need to remove the panel or cubby in the car where you want to install the wireless charger. I can't really walk you through that part, unfortunately. Depending on your vehicle and where you're installing the hardware, the process is going to vary. At least in my Mazda5, I was able to pry panels off with a purpose-built tool fairly easily.

4. Integrating The Qi Wireless Charger

With the panel in question removed, getting the charger into place shouldn't be difficult. I used a standard micro-USB cable and wall plug to verify that the charger still worked through the panel. You'll want to double-check this yourself; as a standard, Qi facilitates charging between planar coils millimeters away from each other, so distance does matter. For my application, I manually held the inductor coil up against the panel's surface with the phone in place. Pleasantly, the phone charges in the spot I planned to keep it.

Once you know where charging works best, whip out your hot glue gun and secure the hardware. I applied hot glue around the metal plate to keep it in place; the PCB received two dabs as well. A bit more was applied to the wires leading to the micro-USB port as well, ensuring it wouldn't move much.

Adata uses a charging status indicator on the CE700. When a device is receiving power, the light flashes a green LED. It's off when there's nothing on the charging pad. I wanted to make this indicator visible, so I drilled a hole that'd fit the LED, routed the wire to the top of my phone pocket, and applied some hot glue to keep it in place. Now, with the phone in the pocket, the LED confirms charging (even though the Nexus 5 has a charging indicator as well).

After gluing everything into place and checking once more that it all worked, I let the phone charge for an hour to test for overheating issues. Fortunately, the charger remained cool the whole time. I was clear to wire everything into the car.

Hardwiring the charger requires access to the accessory outlet. Whether or not the outlet has power when the vehicle isn't running depends on the platform. As a safety precaution, though, always disconnect the car's negative battery terminal before messing with any of the wiring. The Mazda5's accessory outlet only has power when the van is in accessory or running mode. I actually prefer this over outlets that provide constant power. You're less likely to accidentally drain the battery.

Wiring the EDO Tech micro-USB adapter is particularly easy, since there are only two wires. Wire taps are perfectly adequate for such a low-draw application, so that's what I used. The black wire is almost always ground, but I'd suggest looking up the color codes for your specific vehicle just to be sure. Alternatively, you can always use a multimeter or test light before disconnecting the battery to identify the hot wire.

With the adapter connected, reconnect the battery and test the charger to make sure it works. Then, shut the car off to cut power and start cleaning up. As with building a PC, wire management is an important step. I used zip ties and electrical tape to secure the EDO Tech micro-USB adapter's wiring. Extra tape went into minimizing the potential for squeaks and rattles.

Finally, reinstall the panels you removed and marvel at your new integrated wireless charger.

5. Installing A Back-Up Camera

Back-up cameras are particularly handy on vehicles with high belt lines and poor rear visibility. It’s a simple feature that serves a practical purpose. Unfortunately, Mazda doesn't even offer a back-up camera on the 5, instead relying on ultrasonic sensors that beep annoyingly on higher-trim models. The good news is that back-up cameras are easy to find for very little money on eBay; they're also not difficult to install.

While aftermarket companies offer universal-mount cameras that replace your license plate frame or require drilling, we opted for one that provides a factory look. It’s generic and attaches to a Mazda-specific license plate light mount.

The back-up camera we went with is compatible with virtually any current Mazda vehicle, thanks to the manufacturer sharing parts across most of its model line-up. It employs a small plastic mount that clips onto the license plate lamp. I chose to attach the camera to the right side, though it really doesn't make a difference. But before you even get to that point, you need to take off the interior trunk trim. Mazda makes it easy on the 5, but difficulty will vary.

Normally, you’d run an RCA video cable up to the front of the car. But I decided to get a little lazy and use an Audiovox ACA300 wireless back-up camera transmitter and receiver. I’ve had the ACA300 sitting in a box of miscellaneous car audio equipment since 2008 when I had grand plans for a new-at-the-time Chevy HHR SS. If you don't want to run an RCA cable through your cabin, you can buy one for $25. That's quite a bargain compared to the $70 I paid six years ago.

The camera and wireless transmitter need power, of course. Fortunately, the white reverse lights are located on the tailgate. Again, I used wire taps to get power to them. Because the back-up lights are only on when the car is in reverse, the camera operates the same way and stays off unless it's needed.

I'm a real stickler about random panel rattles. To ensure I wouldn't have any issues with the wires, connectors, or wireless transmitter banging against the inside of the tailgate, I used electrical tape and zip ties for a factory look.

Next, you need a display to output the back-up camera's feed. If you don't want to splurge on a navigation system upgrade, you can install a rear-view mirror replacement or clip-on that includes a display for the camera. I went with a Sony XAV-602BT double DIN head unit upgrade, which will be covered in its own review.

The camera installation job only took about 30 minutes, and that was me being extremely careful with the interior tailgate panels.

6. Hard-Wiring A Dash Cam

Dash cam footage from Russia is quite popular here in the U.S. We're constantly amazed at the situations that get captured when a camera is constantly recording. The phenomenon of actually using a dash cam hasn't really caught on yet, and there aren't many mainstream brands selling the devices locally. Garmin is the only one I can think of with a retail presence. Everything else seems to come from Chinese manufacturers selling cheaper equipment.

I sourced a potential contender from Papago!, a Taiwanese company trying to establish itself in the U.S. market. Originally, Papago! sent me a P2 Pro that I briefly auditioned in the Mazda5. But having the display always visible became an annoying distraction. I'm also particular about clean installations, and don't want to see the device unless it's in use. That meant the P2 Pro wouldn't satisfy my aesthetic requirements.

Eventually, Papago! provided us with an early version of its GoSafe Wi-Fi dash cam that instead relies on a smartphone app for display output. It's roughly the size of a GoPro, and small enough to conceal behind your rear-view mirror. There's a good chance you won't even notice it from the driver's seat, yet the camera's buttons and microSD card slot remain accessible.

What makes a dash cam different from standard action cameras is an automatic recording function. The GoSafe Wi-Fi starts rolling as soon as it turns on, and deletes old video that isn't archived. You can tap the emergency file protection button on the side of the GoSafe Wi-Fi to prevent files from being overwritten. Lastly, there’s a three-axis accelerometer that triggers a backup feature, saving footage one minute before and after an accident when the dash cam detects an impact.

Other notable features include a 1/2.8” Sony Exmor 2.4 MP image sensor paired with a bright and wide F/1.9 136-degree lens. It supports 802.11n in client and AP modes, records 1080p30 in AVCHD with a .TS file container, and records to microSDHC.

As with all dash cams, a standard cigarette lighter power adapter is included, which you'd typically let dangle. Again, I'm not a fan of sloppy or temporary-looking installations, so I hardwired the GoSafe Wi-Fi to the Mazda5's ignition, powering it whenever the car is running. I used another USB adapter from EDO Tech Supply, this time for mini-USB, since Papago! has yet to adapt micro-USB.

Getting the dash cam wired up was a bit trickier than the wireless charger due to its location. Of course, I started by disconnecting the car's battery. My Mazda5 also has side curtain airbags that deploy from the headliner, so I needed to be extra cautious removing the A-pillar trim panel and running wire.

Although I was able to tap the cigarette lighter for the wireless charger, the dash cam needed power from a difference source. Fortunately, the instructions for installing Mazda's auto-dimming rear-view mirror are freely available online. It taps the switched ignition power line from the ECU, making it easier to track down the 12 V wire. 

The leads on EDO Tech's mini-USB adapter weren't long enough to reach the passenger foot well, so I had to extend them with some extra 12-gauge wire, a soldering iron, and heat-shrink tubing.

We tapped the switched ignition wire and connected ground to the chassis. With our wiring, the GoSafe Wi-Fi only receives power when the ignition is in the on position. There was a moment there, after getting everything hooked back up, when I turned the key to accessory power and panicked because the dash cam didn't come on. After realizing the wire I tapped only has power when the key is turned to on, I couldn't help but face-palm.

Tidying up the install only required a couple of zip ties. I used gray automotive double-sided tape to secure the USB adapter's power brick to the bottom of the A-pillar, and it didn't interfere with the trim piece at all. With the wiring sufficiently clean, I put the panels back in place and stepped back to admire my work.

Papago GoSafe Wi-Fi

Video quality from the GoSafe Wi-Fi is good. Sony's Exmor sensor resolves enough detail to read license plates, which is all you really need from a dash cam. Since it automatically records when the car is on, you don't have to worry about missing those odd moments when you spot another driver doing something idiotic. There’s also a dedicated image capture button. Just try not to be creepy about using it.

7. Rear-Seat Entertainment With An iPad

Factory-installed rear-seat entertainment systems are expensive options that typically range from $500 to $3000 with limited file compatibility. Fortunately, you can pick up first- and second-gen iPads on the cheap if you don't have one collecting dust already. Though they might seem too slow for modern mobile gaming, they're still great for video playback. Sure, you sacrifice the high-res displays available on newer models. But 1024x768 is still better than the 800x480 you often get from integrated LCDs.

The iPad works perfectly with video from Apple's iTunes story. However, content backed-up from Blu-ray and DVD media can be problematic unless you save it specifically for iOS consumption. That's when jail-breaking the iPad becomes necessary, freeing you up to install XBMC so the iPad can play back almost any video file and manage the device's movie library. There's even a touch-friendly user interface that works well for backseat entertainment.

Securing the iPad is your challenge. Some third parties sell universal mounts that attach to the front seat's headrest posts. However, they rely on friction to keep the tablet in place, and aren't very secure. A first-gen tablet weighs more than a pound and its screen is glass. While a friction mount should be sufficient for normal driving conditions, I'm not as confident about what would happen in an accident. We wouldn't want a pound and a half of electronics turning into a projectile with a child back there.

Fortunately, there's a crash-tested solution available from Scosche. The IPD2HM3 backSTAGE pro II is pricey, selling for $150 on Amazon. But it adds safety-oriented functionality that justifies extra expense. Notably, the backSTAGE pro II supports cheap wireless IR headphones, a USB port, it includes a cigarette lighter charger, and it's built from aluminum. The mount tilts and has a quick-detach mechanism for when you need to conceal the tablet.

We installed the mount in our Mazda5 without any issues. It secures to headrest posts using hex screws, and Scosche includes an Allen wrench for the installation. Unfortunately, the power source relies on a proprietary connector, so you’re stuck using the bulky bundled cigarette lighter adapter. Since we’re still uncertain if this is a permanent addition to our project car, we ran the cable through back of the seat and plugged it into the 12 V accessory outlet for now.

As it sits, the backSTAGE pro II houses an old iPad 2 jail-broken with XBMC. I'm relying on movies from the iTunes Music Store that were acquired through Blu-ray purchases. The next step for this rear-seat entertainment system is the addition of a hard-wired Adata AE800 Wi-Fi-enabled disk that automatically starts with the car. I'll have the iPad connect to it and stream movies from its more generous capacity.

8. LED Headlight Upgrade

Headlight technology is constantly improving on high-end vehicles. While luxury marquees outfit their flagships with the latest LED lights, and continue development of laser-based headlights, mainstream cars are still stuck with halogen and high-intensity discharge options. Mazda does offer HIDs on its top Grand Touring trim, but our base Mazda5 employs pedestrian halogen technology. Fortunately, the company focuses its halogens with excellent projectors that provide a sharp cut-off and plenty of light. Still, the 55 W H11 bulbs Mazda uses are limited to around 1200 lumens.

Philips, Sylvania, PIAA, and others manufacture replacements able to mimic the color of HIDs, promising greater brightness at the expense of longevity. For example, Sylvania's SilverStar is a popular white halogen bulb rated for just one year. They're not cheap either, priced at $40 for a pair. Ultimately, we went with Philips' cheaper $10 alternatives.

And so those of us with halogen headlights are stuck with expensive bulbs that die every year or less light output with a longer life.

There’s always the option to drop a HID kit into your housing. But that's not ideal either; it causes severe glare issues that can blind oncoming drivers. We considered going this route before coming up with a seemingly more suitable solution.

A company called Hellst (which coincidentally sounds similar to the German automotive lighting supplier Hella), offers drop-in LED replacements for vehicles equipped with H11 bulbs. Naturally, we contacted Hellst hoping to check out its technology. The company promises up to 3200 lumens from two large LED elements, a 5500 K color temperature, less power consumption (35 W), plug and play compatibility, and a 40,000-hour lifespan. 

LED headlights aren't cheap, though. Hellst charges $174 and $15 for global shipping. That seems pricey up until you take the promised lifespan into account. Sylvania rates its SilverStar zXe for 650 hours and sells that kit for $60. By the time Hellst's bulbs need replacement, you will have gone through 60 sets of the SilverStar zXe. Over time, paying extra for LEDs makes sense.

The kit was easy to install; the bulbs drop right into the stock H11 fitting. They do rely on ballasts that need to be mounted, but Hellst includes Velcro to simplify placement. We stuck the ballasts to the inside of each fender and plugged in the requisite wiring. Notice that the bulbs have a heat sink and small fan protruding out the back. This is necessary to cool them. The fan engages when the headlights turn on and is rated for up to 20,000 hours (half as long as the bulbs). Nevertheless, the lights dim if the fan goes out, protecting the elements inside. Hellst also says it'll issue a free replacement if your fans fail.

Since these headlights employ two bright CREE LEDs mounted back to back, their orientation in the housing is important. I mistakenly installed the bulbs with the LEDs situated horizontally, creating a dead zone of light. It didn't look right at all. So, I moved the LEDs to a vertical position, which fixed the issue.

At first I was impressed at how bright the Hellst H11 kit was. It projects a clean, white light directly in front of the car, where driving lamps are typically aimed. But after a couple of evenings, I noticed that the peripheral coverage wasn't as good as the halogens. You get lots of light up close and down low, but then it falls off down the road compared to stock.

Hellst LED Headlights

Currently, I'm not comfortable recommending the Hellst LED replacements until we can get to the bottom of the peripheral illumination issue. Driving around town, the improvements aren't as apparent as we hoped, since we're fighting blinding oncoming traffic, street lights and lots of glare reflecting off of the wet Washington roads. In typical driving situations, Hellst's solution offers little improvement beyond the initial wow factor.

9. The Start of A Tech Project Car

I have a lot of plans for our 2014 Mazda5; these few projects were just the beginning of creating something more technologically apt for an audience of enthusiasts. The integrated wireless charger is a perfect match for our Nexus 5. It’s like Mazda designed that slot to fit a compatible Qi charger. Paired with Sony's XAV-602BT head unit and Pandora Internet radio, we get in the car, toss the phone on the charger, and stream music without worrying about battery life. Sweet, right?

The back-up camera works well enough for now, though I'm looking to run an RCA cable to the head unit rather than leaning on a wireless transmitter. I've seen some annoying video interference, though that doesn't keep me from seeing what's going on behind the van.

Despite the mileage we've already racked up, I haven't caught anything YouTube-worthy on the dash cam. It'll happen eventually. Fortunately, thanks to a nice, clean install, I don't even notice the camera from the driver's seat.

My toddler loves the iPad in the back seat. She can watch her favorite movies or play educational apps. I even picked up a set of pink kid-sized IR headphones for her.

Our early impressions of the Hellst LED headlights are a little disappointing, though we'll continue evaluating them, gathering more feedback in different situations.

You’re probably wondering what else we have planned for the little microvan. The list is long. Our Mazda5 will serve as a reference platform for double DIN head unit reviews, beginning with Sony's XAV-602BT, a MirrorLink-compatible solution. I'll continue with Pioneer's NEX and a next-generation Alpine, once that's ready. I'm installing a blind-spot monitoring system, one of my favorite driver assistance features, from Goshers very soon.

The factory cloth seats will get a makeover with leather, heat, cooling, and lumbar adjustment. We haven't decided on a system yet, but the Katzkin Degreez solution leverages the Peltier effect and has our interest. An in-car wireless network will be installed eventually, too. Right now it's a toss-up between an outdated Autonet Car-Fi (a router designed exclusively for in-car use) or an 802.11ac home router with a CarPC shutdown controller.

Ultimately, the rear-seat entertainment system will be replaced by a flip-down or headrest LCD with HDMI input so we can run a Steam Machine in the car for real gaming and XBMC. Unfortunately, all of the units we've found thus far have front- or side-mounted ports that preclude a stealthy installation. The stereo will receive attention with new component speakers up front, coaxials in the rear, and a four-channel amplifier. That install will be documented with RTA measurements for detailed analysis of the gains available from aftermarket stereo equipment.

Since Mazda doesn’t equip the 5 Sport with a simple MPG display, we have to go aftermarket for a detailed trip computer. I may drive with a lead foot, but I still like to keep an eye on fuel consumption.

Despite the technology focus of our project car, it'll receive some visual and performance upgrades as well. We have a set of second-generation (2010-2013) Mazdaspeed 3 wheels in the garage awaiting clean-up and new rubber. A mild 1.5-inch drop from lowering springs, Mazdaspeed 3 front brakes, front sway bar, and rear sway bars are in store, too.

Orange Virus Tuning will help us tune the ECU and squeeze out more power. A short ram air intake and catback exhaust system are the only other power mods we have planned at the moment. However, Bob “De janitor” Roberts, formerly of PC Arena and CNET Asia, and owner of Drift Office, is graciously letting us use his dynamometer so we can measure the power gains with each engine mod.

Those are plans for now. We’re open to suggestions if there’s something you, our reader, wants to see installed or tested. The end goal is a fun-to-drive family hauler with upgrades that are applicable as universally as possible with a little do-it-yourself spirit and a day off of work.