Our $1,250 Best PC Build is an excellent platform for a PC gaming enthusiast with a moderate budget. The Intel Core i5-7600K is a great value option, and the Gigabyte GA-Z270XP SLI motherboard provides a modestly priced Z270 platform with plenty of expansion options (SLI, additional M.2) The Cryorig H5 Universal cooler has no issues keeping CPU temps low. 16GB of memory is quickly becoming a standard, and the G.Skill kit inside the $1,250 Best PC Build has above-average speed at a below-average cost.
We gave the Asus GTX 1070 Strix graphics card all it could handle by using the same punishing settings from our desktop system reviews. It performed admirably at 2560 x 1440, and there were even some game titles that were playable at the highest detail settings at 4K. There’s even some more headroom to overclock the GPU (we didn’t use the OC preset, just the default Gaming), and the extra scratch for the higher-clocked version of the Asus GTX 1070 Strix is worth it for users not looking to manually overclock.
|"Gamer's Delight" by Shrapnel_Indie|
Now, let’s assemble the $1250 Best PC Build.
The $1,250 Gamer’s Delight build doesn’t invest much into case aesthetics. The Cooler Master N400 mid-tower ATX case lacks a windowed side panel. However, the chassis gives you plenty of room to work, and what it lacks in cable management and looks, it makes up for it with practical and easy-to-use features.
Remove the case from the box and remove both of the side panels. You may have to loosen the thumb screws the first time you open the chassis because the machine-fastened screws are a bit tight. Set the panels aside and remove the hardware bag attached the the frame by a tie wrap. Remove the rear fan’s attached molex adapter and find a home for it (you don’t need it anymore). Do the same with the front fan molex adapter, located behind the right side panel near the radiator mount (you can see all of this in slides 5 - 7 in the album below).
Take the power supply out of its box. The semi-modular PSU makes running the power cables much easier, and you only have to worry about the 24-pin ATX power and 8-pin (4+4-pin) CPU power cables for the time being. You can leave the attached cables wrapped up as you secure the PSU to the case with the provided screws.
Untie the case’s internal wiring and locate the front panel I/O cable (see slide 2 in the album below). Reach into the motherboard box and grab the G-Connect module (slide 3 in the album below), in addition to the rear-panel I/O backplate. Match the front panel leads to the proper slots and lock them into place (slide 4). Install the rear panel backplate and make sure the edges are flush with the chassis (slide 5).
Before we can mount any hardware, we have to install the small, gold-colored motherboard standoff posts that came with the case. Be sure to use the standoff tool (small, silver) to tighten them. Attach the posts to the holes in the case’s motherboard tray marked A, B, D, E, J, and K and tighten them using the tool and a Phillips-head screwdriver. Don’t apply too much pressure, or you could bend the chassis, and make sure the posts thread properly before tightening them all the way.
Remove the Gigabyte GA-Z270XP-SLI motherboard from its box and set it on top of its static bag on a flat surface. Expose the CPU socket by lifting the tension arm away from the hook and lifting the clamp. Remove the Intel Core i5-7600K processor from its box and plastic case, match the notches in the chip to the socket, and gently lower the CPU into place (warning: discharge any static buildup or wear a static wristband before doing this). Remove the plastic cover on the clamp, lay it over the processor and under the motherboard’s post, and secure the tension arm to its hook. All of this is depicted in slides 2 - 7 in the album below.
Remove the motherboard’s M.2 mounting post screw (below the CPU socket) using a small Phillips-head screwdriver. Take the M.2 Crucial MX300 SSD out of its package and insert it into the M.2 slot with the chips facing up (flat side down). Hold down the SSD and secure it to the post by replacing the screw. This is depicted in slides 8 - 11 in the album below.
Take the CPU cooler and its hardware out of its box. The square padding (slide 2 below) can be applied to the inner side of the backplate (this will go under the motherboard) by peeling the tape off and sticking it to the post side of the bracket (slide 3). Set the post positions to B for socket 1151 (slide 4) and line up the backplate with the motherboard holes (slide 5).
Feed the posts into the motherboard holes and use the male-to-female screws (male side up; see slide 8 in the album above) to secure the backplate, making sure everything is tight. Place the mounting bars across the posts number-side up, perpendicular to the memory DIMMs (top and bottom of the CPU socket) so that each bar is curved outward from the CPU socket (see slide 9, above). Use the thumb screw caps to secure the mounting bars (last slide above) to the motherboard and set it aside.
Next, we’ll install the motherboard and remaining components. Begin by locating the short Philips-head screws that came with your case. Use the screws with the thicker threads to attach the motherboard to the chassis. You’ll also need the thinner screws later, so set them aside.
Lower the motherboard into the chassis and line up the mounting holes with the standoffs. One of the motherboard holes won’t have a post, but that’s okay. Use the thick-thread, fat-head screws to secure the board to the chassis (see the 3rd picture above). Untie the PSU power cables and attach the 24-pin ATX plug to the motherboard. Run the CPU cable along the edge of the board (behind the ATX cable, 5th picture above) and plug in the 8-pin connector. Tuck the cable under the edges of the motherboard to secure it (see slide 7 above).
Plug in the Audio, USB 2.0, and G-Connect (front panel I/O) to the appropriate ports on the motherboard (see slides 2 - 4 in the album below). You can tie the wires together to make them somewhat neater, but the cable management doesn’t need to be pristine (there’s no window on this case). You’ll also need some slack in the cables later on, so don’t make things too tight.
Plug in the USB 3.0 cable (slide 6 above). Attach the rear fan cable to the motherboard using the port at the top of the motherboard, near the CPU power port (see slide 7 above). Tuck the excess cable under the fan. Run the front fan cable to the bottom of the motherboard (near the G-Connect port) and plug it into the fan port. You can leave this wire hanging.
The Cooling & Memory
Install the 16GB (2 x 8GB) kit of G.Skill DDR4-3200 using the second and fourth memory slot from the left. Be sure to line up the notches in the modules and the motherboard before applying pressure.
Next, take the CPU cooler’s included thermal paste and apply it to the processor (see slide 4 in the album above). Take the CPU heatsink and position it above the processor with the fan facing the memory. Plug in the heatsink’s fan cable to the CPU fan port on the motherboard. Lower the heatsink onto the processor and hold it in position. Most of this is depicted in the 6th slide in the album above.
Find the Phillips-head tool that came with the cooler and slide it into one of the holes at the top of the heatsink. You may have to shift the sink around to line up the springed screws with the mounting bracket, but once you do, only turn it a little bit. Switch shafts and get the other screw to thread, then tighten each only a little at a time, switching between them to keep pressure on both sides even. Once both sides are tight, tuck the CPU fan cable at the top of the chassis (as seen in the last slide in the album above).
There’s an endless debate concerning the orientation of 3.5” hard drives in a standard drive cage that faces front to back. Some are adamant that you must insert the HDD ports first so that the drive is flush with the bracket. Others are comfortable installing it the opposite way (with the plugs pointed towards the rear of the chassis), with the drive protruding out of the bay a few inches. This method allows for easy access to the power and data ports, but it can be problematic depending on the build’s other hardware, such as an oversized GPU.
For this system, we decided to go with the latter method. Take the 1TB Western Digital 7,200RPM HDD out of its packaging and slide it into one of the lower bays with the ports exposed in the chassis (not behind the front panel), as seen in slide 2 above. Be sure to place it low if you go with this method, because the graphics card will not fit if you place the HDD near the PCIe slots. Use the case’s mounting brackets to secure the HDD to the chassis on both sides (left and right). You could essentially go either way, but we concluded that putting the HDD in with the ports exposed would make it easier for first-time builders to run the necessary cabling to the drive.
Take the modular SATA power cable out of the PSU box, and grab a SATA data cable out of the motherboard box. Attach the SATA power cable to one of the PSU’s 6-pin ports and run the wiring directly to the drive cage. Plug in the power, and then plug in the SATA data cable to the HDD. Run the data cable to the motherboard and plug it into the lowest SATA port (so it doesn’t interfere with the M.2 SATA SSD in the SATA Express connector). Tuck the excess SATA power behind the drive cage.
The Graphics Card
Take a PCIe power cable out of the power supply package and plug in the 8-pin connector to the PSU (see slide 2 below). Run the wire up along the existing cables and tie it in with the bunch. Leave the PCIe plugs resting in the space above the HDD cage.