2014 Mazda5 Sport: Say Hello To Tom's Hardware's Project Car

Integrating The Qi Wireless Charger

With the panel in question removed, getting the charger into place shouldn't be difficult. I used a standard micro-USB cable and wall plug to verify that the charger still worked through the panel. You'll want to double-check this yourself; as a standard, Qi facilitates charging between planar coils millimeters away from each other, so distance does matter. For my application, I manually held the inductor coil up against the panel's surface with the phone in place. Pleasantly, the phone charges in the spot I planned to keep it.

Once you know where charging works best, whip out your hot glue gun and secure the hardware. I applied hot glue around the metal plate to keep it in place; the PCB received two dabs as well. A bit more was applied to the wires leading to the micro-USB port as well, ensuring it wouldn't move much.

Adata uses a charging status indicator on the CE700. When a device is receiving power, the light flashes a green LED. It's off when there's nothing on the charging pad. I wanted to make this indicator visible, so I drilled a hole that'd fit the LED, routed the wire to the top of my phone pocket, and applied some hot glue to keep it in place. Now, with the phone in the pocket, the LED confirms charging (even though the Nexus 5 has a charging indicator as well).

After gluing everything into place and checking once more that it all worked, I let the phone charge for an hour to test for overheating issues. Fortunately, the charger remained cool the whole time. I was clear to wire everything into the car.

Hardwiring the charger requires access to the accessory outlet. Whether or not the outlet has power when the vehicle isn't running depends on the platform. As a safety precaution, though, always disconnect the car's negative battery terminal before messing with any of the wiring. The Mazda5's accessory outlet only has power when the van is in accessory or running mode. I actually prefer this over outlets that provide constant power. You're less likely to accidentally drain the battery.

Wiring the EDO Tech micro-USB adapter is particularly easy, since there are only two wires. Wire taps are perfectly adequate for such a low-draw application, so that's what I used. The black wire is almost always ground, but I'd suggest looking up the color codes for your specific vehicle just to be sure. Alternatively, you can always use a multimeter or test light before disconnecting the battery to identify the hot wire.

With the adapter connected, reconnect the battery and test the charger to make sure it works. Then, shut the car off to cut power and start cleaning up. As with building a PC, wire management is an important step. I used zip ties and electrical tape to secure the EDO Tech micro-USB adapter's wiring. Extra tape went into minimizing the potential for squeaks and rattles.

Finally, reinstall the panels you removed and marvel at your new integrated wireless charger.

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51 comments
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  • Looks great cant wait for the rest of the planned mods.
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  • nice mazda 5 you have sir :) I liked the wireles charge.

    I want see some night vision on car. drive without lights...
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  • I might have to upgrade the wife's 2010 =)
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  • Thanks guys. Next up will be a Blind-spot monitor system from Gosher's, ScanGaugeE, and some sort of wireless storage. Even have a set of Mazdaspeed 3 wheels ready to go, just waiting on tires :)
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  • I recently picked up a non-Nav equipped CX-9 Grand Touring AWD. I look forward to the head unit reviews. So far, I've put on an aftermarket trailer hitch, and half installed a Pyle backup camera system.
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  • 168286 said:
    I recently picked up a non-Nav equipped CX-9 Grand Touring AWD. I look forward to the head unit reviews. So far, I've put on an aftermarket trailer hitch, and half installed a Pyle backup camera system.


    How do you like the CX9 so far? The CX5 is still one of my favorites to drive. I've yet to get into a CX9 but I do love the Ford Flex, its platform mate.
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  • It's been good so far. I got it at the end of April, so haven't had it too long. The only thing I don't care for is the headroom up front. I'm 6'3", and If I have the seat adjusted more upright like I prefer, my noggin hits the roof.
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  • 168286 said:
    It's been good so far. I got it at the end of April, so haven't had it too long. The only thing I don't care for is the headroom up front. I'm 6'3", and If I have the seat adjusted more upright like I prefer, my noggin hits the roof.


    How's the driving dynamics? The CX-9 is supposed to be fairly sporty compared to the usual dreadful driving CUVs.
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  • It does drive very much like a car. I'm coming from a '02 Durango. I had also test drove the Acura MDX. Very similar ride at a lower price point.
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  • The first gen Durango's are awesome. I still love how they look. The MDX is nice. I drove the latest one and its a very nice car minus the annoying dual screen infotainment system. The price tag didn't help sway me either. As much as I enjoy driving expensive cars, I'm quite frugal when it comes to my own car :)
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  • It's an SLT+ with the 5.9l and a bad tranny. Interested?? LOL
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  • I don't need anymore cars, but you sure it's not just a sensor? My dad picked up a '97 Grand Cherokee 5.2 a few years ago with a bad tranny. Turns out it was a bad sensor or something. Been running fine.
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  • THANK YOU for the LED headlight install. I have been watching this tech and am intrigued at the LED headlight kits on Ebay for under $100 that look similar to the kit you bought. It's now competitive to HID kits, though not as bright especially compared with 55w HID kits.

    Maybe if you adjust your headlight up a bit with the adjustment screw the light pattern will be better?

    I would be skeptical that power into the LED is 35 watts. Most say 25 watts or so on Ebay. More watts is more heat and less lumens/watt probably.
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  • 137290 said:
    THANK YOU for the LED headlight install. I have been watching this tech and am intrigued at the LED headlight kits on Ebay for under $100 that look similar to the kit you bought. It's now competitive to HID kits, though not as bright especially compared with 55w HID kits. Maybe if you adjust your headlight up a bit with the adjustment screw the light pattern will be better? I would be skeptical that power into the LED is 35 watts. Most say 25 watts or so on Ebay. More watts is more heat and less lumens/watt probably.


    I wanted to like them so much but the way they're designed, you can't really get proper lighting out of them. If you're in the city and only need close range lighting, sure they'll suffice. However, I live in the country side and being able to see the signs way down is necessary. I ended up pulling them out and buying wiring harnesses to install H9 bulbs. They're 65-watt and 2100 lumens. Life span is shorter but they're only $15 a piece.
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  • 396755 said:
    I don't need anymore cars, but you sure it's not just a sensor? My dad picked up a '97 Grand Cherokee 5.2 a few years ago with a bad tranny. Turns out it was a bad sensor or something. Been running fine.

    I've thought about the possibility of it just being a pressure sensor. The transmissions in these are notoriously bad, though. I haven't decided if I want to bother with it yet or not.
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  • I'd at least get the code read and if its just a sensor, replace it and sell the car for much more.
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  • 396755 said:
    I'd at least get the code read and if its just a sensor, replace it and sell the car for much more.

    No codes are being thrown for it. :(
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  • That's odd. Could just need a flush and new filter?
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  • Did that less than 10k before this. Went from WI to Badlands and back just fine last year. Did everything to it as far as maintenance right before the trip out. Mechanics are family, so I trust them. ;)
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  • Yea if its not throwing codes, could be anything from solenoids or clutch packs burning out :-\.
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