Libernovo is still basically brand new to the gaming chairs market — the company just released its first chair a little over a year ago. But the original Libernovo Omni was impressive: lightweight, dynamically ergonomic, and comfortable enough to supplant my ride-or-die Herman Miller Aeron for several months. Now Libernovo is branching out (sort of), with variations on its original Omni. There's a cheaper, less-techy version (the Omni SE), a fancier version with a built-in fan (the Omni Pro), and a sturdier version for people who are between 5 feet 10 inches and 6 feet 7 inches, weighing up to 399 pounds (181kg).

We're taking a look at the Libernovo Omni Pro, which is the more premium version of this already fairly pricey chair. It's got a few upgrades from the original Omni, including a reinforced aluminum alloy base and more durable fabric, as well as a built-in seat ventilation fan that works... surprisingly well, considering it doesn't blow air toward you but rather draws it away from you. As the fanciest Omni variation, the Omni Pro is, of course, pricier than the original Omni, but not by too much — its retail price is listed at $1,299, but that seems to be permanently discounted to $1,109. That's for just the chair itself; Libernovo also sells it bundled with a corresponding StepSync footrest for $1,183 (MSRP: $1,497), and with an extra battery for $1,247 (MSRP: $1,596).

Assembly

The Omni Pro does require some assembly: It's more complicated to assemble than most gaming chairs, as it has some electronics built-in. But it's also easier to assemble than most gaming chairs, as it's fairly lightweight and none of the pieces are oversized or unwieldy.

The chair comes with everything you need to assemble it, including work gloves (not really necessary, but a nice touch, I suppose), a hex screwdriver, and hardware packaged in individually-labeled bags. The instructions are printed on a giant box insert, which is fairly easy to follow (though I still felt like the illustrations could have been explained slightly better). The chair also comes with a separate user manual and a setup manual to help you calibrate the chair for the first time.

The chair took me about 20 minutes to put together on my own.

Design and Construction

The Omni Pro looks very similar to the regular Libernovo Omni — it's a compact, lightweight office chair with an articulated backrest that's designed to move with your body as you move and shift your weight in the chair. It's a pretty compact chair, relatively speaking, but it does have a “spine” that holds the backrest together, as well as a headrest that can be moved forward/backward, and so it takes up more space (at least, behind you) than you initially expect.

The Omni Pro comes in two colors, graphite (dark gray) and glacier (light gray, almost white). Our review unit came in graphite, with dark gray upholstery, a dark gray frame, a black wheelbase, and silver (plastic) accent buttons / knobs. The Omni Pro features new fabric upholstery — Gabriel Atlantic fabric, which is more durable and (I guess) breathable than that of the original Omni. The fabric does look and feel more durable and premium, but it's slightly more abrasive than the original fabric. It didn't cause me any real discomfort, but I also didn't sit on it for very long with bare skin.

The upholstery and the wheelbase — which is made of hefty aluminum alloy — are the main noticeable design differences between the Omni Pro and the original Omni. The aluminum wheelbase does add some weight to the chair, bringing its total weight up to 55.8 pounds (25.31kg), which is heavier than the original Omni's weight of 48 pounds (21.77kg) — but still isn't particularly heavy for a chair, let alone a gaming chair.

The Omni Pro also has an extra button under its left armrest, to control the underseat ventilation fan (tapping the button toggles through the fan's settings — slow, fast, and off).

Specs

Comfort and Adjustments

The Libernovo Omni Pro is a surprisingly comfortable chair — just like the original Omni — thanks to its dynamic, ergonomic articulated backrest and various adjustments. It's more of an office chair than it is a gaming chair, but it does offer a full 160-degree recline — though it's an active recline, meaning you need to be sitting in the chair for it to happen (as opposed to many gaming chairs, which are similar to car seats).

The Omni Pro's adjustment levers are mainly located under the seat on the right side. There's a dual lever / switch that controls chair height and recline position — pulling up on the front side of the lever lets you adjust height, while pulling up on the back side of the lever locks the maximum recline. While the original Omni had four recline positions, the Omni Pro has five — and believe it or not, this makes a big difference. Whatever fifth position they added is the position I wanted on the original Omni, I guess (the recline positions lock at 105, 115, 125, 135, and 160 degrees).

Under the dual lever / switch, there's a knob that controls tilt tension, which is how much tension you'll feel when you recline. Turning the knob clockwise increases tension and turning it counter-clockwise decreases it. There seems to be a pretty wide range of tilt for this chair, so you may need to turn it several times to get the tension to your liking.

There's also dynamic, adjustable motorized lumbar support, which is controlled via the buttons on the inside of the left armrest. There are two arrow buttons for making the lumbar support firmer (forward) or... less firm (backward), and there's also a spinal massage button that triggers a five-minute spinal massage / stretch (using the chair's lumbar support) when pressed. While I like the Omni Pro's lumbar support, and found it very comfortable, it's worth noting that it's not vertically adjustable — so while it worked well for me, it may not work quite as well for someone with different body proportions.

Speaking of which, I'm about 5 feet 7 inches and 130 pounds, and the Omni Pro seemed perfect for me — not too big or heavy, and easy to adjust and move around in. The chair is rated for up to 300 pounds (136kg), and it seems sturdy enough — though I'm not sure how well the electronics will hold up if someone who weighs closer to that is using the spinal stretch feature regularly. My husband, who's 5 feet 11 inches and around 180 pounds definitely seemed a little too big for the chair (he has very long legs, though, and the chair's maximum depth of 18.9 inches (48cm) was still a little short for him).

In addition to the lumbar support, the Omni Pro has a ventilation fan under the seat. Unlike the other chairs we've seen with built-in fans, such as DXRacer's Martian Pro Red Triangle or Cougar's NxSys Aero Chair, this fan doesn't blow toward you to cool you off — instead, it removes hot air (I guess?) from around you by blowing away from you. I was skeptical, too, but it actually seems to work... pretty well. I guess there's a lot of heat trapped in the seat, because it instantly felt cooler even on the lower setting.

The fan runs on the same battery pack as the motorized lumbar support, and Libernovo says you'll get up to 9 hours of continuous fan usage on the higher setting, and up to 36 hours on the lower setting, and there's also a built-in sensor in the seat that automatically switches the fan off if you stand up (and switches it back on again when you sit back down). I could definitely hear the fan on both the high and low settings, but it faded pretty quickly to background noise on the lower setting. Also, the fan definitely seems to take up some space, because the seat on the Omni Pro is less padded than the seat on the Omni. I could feel the chair's frame through the seat, which wasn't a problem for me but may not be quite as comfortable for someone who's heavier.

Like the original Omni, the Omni Pro has 4D armrests that adjust four directions: up/down, forward/back, left/right, and angle in/out. There's a lever under the outside of each armrest that you can press to adjust the armrests up/down. To adjust the armrests forward or backward, you just slide the tops (no button/lever necessary); same with adjusting the angle. Bringing the armrests closer to you involves pulling them inward, tilting them toward you. I don't love the way the armrests end up angled toward your body as a result of this, but I also don't ever find it necessary to adjust the width of my armrests so it wasn't an issue.

The Omni Pro also has an adjustable head/neck rest, which is curved to fit the curve of your neck/spine. The neck rest is height-adjustable and can be moved forward/back to suit your needs (or removed entirely).

Libernovo also sent us the corresponding StepSync Footrest, which is a dual height footrest with both a bottom shelf for resting your feet on when you're sitting upright and a padded upper shelf for when you want to recline. It's not a particularly high-tech footrest, but it's sturdy enough and it matches the chair, and it's a nice addition to the entire setup if you snag it in the bundle.

Bottom Line

Libernovo's Omni Pro managed to surprise me — I already liked the original Omni, and the Omni Pro's seemingly gimmicky seat ventilation fan worked better than I expected it to. The Omni Pro is a comfortable ergonomic chair that will fit pretty easily into most gaming setups (especially if you don't have the space for a giant racing-style behemoth), but the issue of longevity that we had with the original Omni carries over.

The Omni Pro has even more potentially breakable technology inside it, and the warranty on electronics is a mere two years — and remember, if the electronics in this chair stop working then you can no longer adjust the lumbar support. The chair itself has a six-year warranty (up from the original Omni's five years), which is on par with other gaming chair companies, but is still only half that of Herman Miller's 12-year warranty.

And while the Herman Miller x Logitech G Vantum has been fluctuating in price, it's still less than the Omni Pro.

Fractal Design is determined to be on, under, and in front of your desk — the PC peripherals company best known for its designer PC cases has just released the Fractal Refine 2 — the second generation of its minimalist, "refined" take on the typical racing-inspired gaming chair.

The Fractal Refine 2 is very similar to the original Fractal Refine, but it's been... refined... just a bit further. It still features a subdued but unmistakable "gaming chair" silhouette, as well as a fairly high level of adjustability and a large, hefty frame. Fractal has definitely made some changes — the 4D arm rests now lock in place, and the tilt limiter, which I found to be way too strong in the original, has been pulled back a little (but not quite enough). The price has also been adjusted — all variations retail for $640, which is on the higher side for a typical racing-style gaming chair. We did like the original Refine, but its scratchy mesh fabric kept it off our list of best gaming chairs — but this time we're taking a look at the fabric version.

Assembly

The Fractal Refine 2 comes in a heavy box that's so large you might think the chair is already assembled — but it isn't. It's well-packed: all the pieces are individually wrapped and/or boxed, and there's plenty of eco-friendly packing material keeping everything in its place.

The chair comes with all the tools you'll need to assemble it, though there's admittedly not too much assembly. It comes with an allen wrench and several screws — six longer screws for attaching the armrests, two shorter screws for attaching the backrest, and a handful of extra screws, just in case.

Assembly is pretty straightforward and is pretty easy to accomplish alone — unlike most of the traditional racing-style gaming chairs, the backrest of the Refine 2 is quite a bit lighter than the base, and is easy to put into place alone. It also has two pre-placed screws that slot into two holes and slide to "lock" in place, so you don't need to somehow hold the two pieces together and screw them into place simultaneously. (This might not sound that noteworthy, but trust me — many chairs are virtually impossible to put together without a partner because of this.)

I was able to assemble the Refine 2 by myself in about 15 minutes, and the most difficult part was unpacking everything (because the box really is huge). The Refine 2 comes with a large illustrated instruction panel, as well as an information booklet with more detailed instructions.

Specs

Design

The Refine 2 comes in three upholstery options — fabric, mesh, and hybrid (fabric seat, mesh back) — and two colorways — light and dark. Our review unit came in the dark colorway, a dark slate heathered gray with a black frame, with full fabric upholstery. The fabric feels like soft brushed cotton and is much more comfortable than both the mesh and the fabric of the mesh version of the original Fractal Refine that we reviewed two years ago.

Fabric aside, the Refine 2 looks very similar to its predecessor, with the same "refined" racing-inspired silhouette. It sits on a sturdy, five-spoke metal base with large, hollow plastic casters and a class 4 pneumatic gas lift. It features a glass-fiber reinforced frame with a thick, padded seat that has slightly raised sides — not quite a bucket seat, though it does have the traditional forward hump that bucket seats have. The seat width is approximately 17 inches (431.8mm) between the sides; with the sides included it's closer to 20.5 inches (520.7mm).

The chair has a tall, racing-style backrest with slightly winged shoulder support and a headrest. The chair measures 18.75 inches (476.25mm) wide at the shoulders, and is approximately 53.7 - 58.5 inches (1365 - 1485mm) tall overall. The backrest consists of fabric stretched over a plastic frame for firm, suspension-style support. The chair also features manually-adjustable lumbar support, which presses through the backrest and can be moved vertically and adjusted for strength.

The Refine 2 is not a bad-looking chair, but it is big, heavy, and difficult to maneuver once it's been assembled. It weighs almost 80 pounds (36kg), and is fairly bottom-heavy, which I suppose is good for those who want to spend a lot of time tilting in this chair.

Comfort and Adjustments

The Refine 2 is highly adjustable, though it doesn't offer some of the traditional gaming chair adjustments, such as the ability to lie almost completely flat. There are two levers on the right side of the chair, just under the seat, that control seat depth and height. The front lever controls height, and works as expected — pulling it raises and lowers the chair's height via its gas lift. The floor-to-seat height ranges from 19.3 - 24 inches (490 - 610mm).

The back lever controls seat depth, which starts at around 16.7 inches (425mm) and can be adjusted to approximately 19.69 inches (500mm), which is pretty deep. Under the two levers there's a knob for adjusting the strength of the chair's tilt limiter — twisting forward (clockwise) makes it stronger, while twisting backward (counter-clockwise) makes it weaker. One of my main issues with the original Refine was that the tilt limiter was far too strong, even at its weakest setting. I'm pleased to see that the Refine 2 has toned down the absolute strength of the tilt limiter, but unfortunately it's still just a little too strong for me to be able to easily lean back. While I did manage to find a comfortable position with the Refine 2 by tilting back and locking the chair into a slightly reclined position, I would still prefer more flexibility in the seatback while I'm working.

The Refine 2 has adjustable lumbar support in the form of a moving lumbar pad that presses through the seat's suspension back. The lumbar pad can be moved up and down (you'll need to move it manually), and support can be dialed up by twisting the knob clockwise, or dialed down by twisting the knob counter-clockwise. The lumbar support now features dual pads on either side of your spine (instead of just one pad, like the original Refine had), which flex and adapt as you move to better support your lower back. The dynamic support was nice, though I think I still prefer vertically-adaptable support (like what's on the Herman Miller x Logitech G Vantum).

Like its predecessor, the Refine 2 has 4D adjustable armrests — you can adjust the height, width, depth, and angle. Unlike its predecessor, these arm rests do fully lock in place, as the depth (back/forward) movement is now locked to the small button (on the inside of the armrest, near the front) that also locks angle. There's a lever on the outside of each armrest for adjusting height, and a button on the inside (in the middle) for adjusting width. You can also adjust overall armrest width at the base, though you'll need to break out the hex wrench to do this.

The armrests have wide, padded polyurethane-covered tops and are fairly comfortable. I did find the depth/angle lock to be a little difficult to easily maneuver — especially when I wanted to adjust angle (there are only three angles — neutral/straight, and about 20 degrees inward and outward), but I suppose that's the price we pay for locking arm rests.

The chair has a built-in, detachable neck pillow implemented the same way it is on the original Refine — attached to the chair via two sturdy metal attachments that click into place. The neck pillow can be manually raised or lowered, or it can be removed completely by pressing the button at the top of the backrest. The neck pillow is very similar to the one in the original Refine — moderately dense fabric-covered memory foam with a bottom-heavy sloped shape designed to sit at the base of your neck.

The maximum recommended weight for the Refine 2 is approximately 300 pounds (135kg). However, the recommended weight range is 132 - 300 pounds (60 - 135kg) and the recommended height range is 5'5" - 6'7" (160 - 200cm). I'm right at the lower end of this range (I'm around 5'7" / 171cm and I weigh around 135 pounds / 61kg), and the chair still seemed too heavy for me. While the tilt limiter was weaker than the tilt limiter on the original Refine, I still found it hard to easily tilt back and ended up having to lock the chair into position for comfort. My husband, who's 5'11" (180cm) and weighs around 190 pounds (86kg) had a much easier time tilting and maneuvering the chair.

Bottom Line

The Fractal Refine 2 is actually a pretty nicely refined version of the original Refine. The company definitely took some feedback into account and made some adjustments — but are they enough? This chair is practically identical to its predecessor, and the relatively minor changes aren't really enough to warrant an upgrade if you already have the original. If you don't already have the Fractal Refine, the Refine 2 is a pretty nice halfway point between racing-style gaming chairs and pricier task/office chairs — and the price is about halfway, too. At $640, this is a little more than you'll spend on a typical racing-style chair, such as SecretLab's Titan Evo NanoGen, but it's significantly less than you'll spend on most office-style chairs, such as SteelCase's Karman.

An ardent Asus customer who's bought over $30,000 worth of the company's products recently had his brand loyalty put to the test. Lucas (u/lucaslucaalucas123) wanted a replacement for the 2.4 GHz wireless receiver that came with his ROG Delta II KJP gaming headset, but was denied support because accessories aren't covered under warranty. He took to Reddit to express his disappointment and was met with a hopeful reply in the comments.

The OP brought receipts (literally) to prove his unwavering commitment to the brand, with screenshots showcasing at least 18 different items bought just this year alone. In the second picture, we can see the ROG Delta headset was purchased in April, and it's still under warranty till 31 January 2027. This is a premium headset; it costs $270 normally, though it's on sale for just $199 on Best Buy right now.

Asus' official support policies say that free accessories, such as a mouse with a laptop, are not covered under warranty. But accessories bundled with peripherals are indeed covered under the same terms as the peripheral itself. Since a wireless receiver is a key component of the headset, it should be replaced in case of a defect or hardware failure. However, if you lose it or break it yourself, that's a different story.

Since the customer was asking for a replacement outright instead of opening a ticket for a defect, it's possible that customer service simply wasn't equipped to help him out. Small parts like these often don't carry their own SKU number, so it's hard to bill them separately, or it could be just that the reps are misinformed on the exact nuances of free, optional accessories versus core accessories required for proper functioning.

Anyhow, Lucas was told to buy the receiver himself through a third-party reseller. Asus lists three suppliers in North America for replacement parts, but we weren't able to find the specific receiver for the ROG Delta II KJP on any of these websites. It's actually unclear if the OP has found a supplier that even has this receiver in stock, because the post concludes with him asking others how they managed to get a replacement.

Fortunately, an Asus rep in the comments apologized and said they've escalated the matter. They also remarked how this shouldn't have happened regardless of one being a new or a loyal customer. Lucas' allegiance to Asus had perhaps created a bubble where he thought the brand would reciprocate the loyalty. We're not inferring this either; his caption clearly implies he felt betrayed after investing so much.

Ultimately, it took one simple receiver to completely shatter that illusion. Businesses operate on the basis of fatter margins. Laws bind them to offer customer support. It wouldn't be unreasonable to say that they'd do much worse if they could get away with it. So, let this serve as a cautionary tale for the next time you're being brand-conscious or trying to be an evangelist; remember that they are profit-making organizations first and foremost.

The portability of a laptop is nice, but it’s not without drawbacks. I often find myself wanting more from their generally tiny screens and more connectivity than my laptop offers, especially for heavy multitasking. Even writing a simple deals post like this requires multiple windows to be open, and my 14-inch 2560x1440 work laptop doesn't offer enough screen real estate to work efficiently. An extra monitor or two is great for viewing multiple things (for me, browser tabs) at once without using ‘Alt+Tab’ to move around between active applications on your desktop. This $99.99 docking station costs only $24.29 with Woot using promo code WOOTDOCK ($29.99 without); it’s a whopping $77 (76%) off and is the best deal you’ll find on a name-brand 7-in-1 docking station this side of a Prime Day.

• Check out this deal at Woot!

Starting with video output, this tiny little device offers a single HDMI 2.0 output good for 4K60Hz, along with a DisplayPort 1.4 port for up to 8K30Hz output. In other words, you can run two 4K60Hz monitors or a single 8K30Hz display, either dramatically increasing your screen real estate from a single, generally small, native laptop monitor. In addition to video output, it supports up to 60W USB-C PD, so you can also quickly charge your host device when connected to an external charger.

It’s not all about the video with docking stations, though. You get additional connectivity, including two USB 3.2 Gen 2 (10 Gbps) Type-A ports and a 3.5mm audio combo jack. It also offers a 1 GbE port so you can connect your laptop to a wired local network or the internet for faster speeds, lower latency, a more stable connection, and increased security over Wi-Fi. The HyperDrive dock connects to your MacBook Pro/Air, iPad Pro/Air, Windows, or ChromeOS device via a Thunderbolt 4 (40 Gbps) connection for ultra-fast data and file transfers.

With a price of $24.29 after using the promo code WOOTDOCK at checkout, you’re not going to find another name-brand dock at a better price. In fact, you’d be hard-pressed to find any Thunderbolt 4 dock at this price that offers the port count and high-res video support. Deals at Woot.com don’t last long, so if you’re even thinking about buying a dock for your laptop, jump on this deal now before it disappears.

It has been a quarter century since the world’s first webcam was turned off for good. The Trojan Room Coffee Pot was retired on Wednesday, August 22, 2001, after 10 years of service at Cambridge University. This extraordinary webcam’s final low-res image was of its own switch-off, with the fingers of Daniel Gordon, Martyn Johnson, and Quentin Stafford-Fraser pressing the power-off switch on the Acorn Archimedes to which the cam was attached.

Quentin Stafford-Fraser and Paul Jardetzky created the webcam for the entirely practical purpose of preventing team members from being disappointed when they visited the coffee pot. “There were about fifteen of us involved in related research and, being poor, impoverished academics, we only had one coffee filter machine between us, which lived in the corridor just outside the Trojan Room,” Stafford-Fraser recalls. “However, being highly dedicated and hard-working academics, we got through a lot of coffee, and when a fresh pot was brewed, it often didn't last long.” With several team members in other parts of the building, some needing to traverse several flights of stairs to reach the coffee pot, XCoffee was devised as a solution.

The Archimedes mentioned in the intro wasn’t the first host for the Trojan Room Coffee Pot camera; that was an unnamed Motorola 680X0 machine. The Acorn RISC computer took over webcam duties less than eight years prior to the switch-off in 2001.

This webcam has a history going even further back, though. Remarkably, the Trojan Room Coffee Pot webcam was live even before the World Wide Web was a thing. It began service in 1991, when a 128 x 128 pixel grayscale camera was connected to the science lab’s LAN via a frame capture card. An image of the coffee pot was captured three times a minute and via a custom-coded server-side X Window System protocol app so that any team member on the network could monitor/check it. This pioneering webcam actually connected to the internet for the first time in November 1993, just a few months after web browsers gained the ability to display images.

Today, webcams can be used to broadcast very high-quality streams with high resolutions and supporting very fast data and frame rates. Great capture hardware, fast computers, and fiber internet are widespread now, so if you wanted to live-stream a coffee pot, it would be a cinch to do so in true color, in up to 4K, and 60 frames per second using one of the best webcam picks of 2026.

A class-action lawsuit has been filed against Logitech after it allegedly failed to return the tariffs that the U.S. government refunded to the company after the U.S. Supreme Court ruled that President Donald Trump’s tariffs were illegal. According to Ars Technica, the company increased the prices on more than half of its product line by as much as 25% in April 2025, the same month that the U.S. president announced the “Liberation Day” tariffs.

The lawsuit [PDF] alleges that the company received a full refund of $61 million as of June 30, 2026, but it has yet to return or refund any of its customers who bought Logitech products at the inflated prices. In fact, the price increases that it implemented last year in response to the illegal tariffs are still in place. “Many companies that received the benefit of a tariff refund, like the shippers that are now voluntarily returning money that they paid on customers’ behalf, are returning those ill-gotten gains to customers,” the attorneys argued in their class-action complaint.

“What separates Logitech from these shippers is that Logitech has made it clear it has no intention of returning that refund to its customers.” This contrasts with some companies, like Arctic, that have begun implementing refunds by cutting product prices.

Another argument in the complaint states that Logitech has more than enough capability to refund its customers. “Logitech’s own figures establish that the Company extracted approximately $73 million to $97 million from consumers in fiscal years 2026 alone through tariff-justified price increases, a conservative estimate of the amount passed through to the Class is therefore at least $75 million to $100 million,” the lawsuit alleges. It also pointed to the company’s statement in its May 2026 earnings call, saying that “manufacturing diversification actions combined with the price increase in the U.S. more than offset the negative impact of tariffs.”

Nintendo is in the same boat as Logitech, which is also facing a similar lawsuit after it refused to pass on its tariff refunds to customers. Although the Japanese console manufacturer managed to keep Switch 2 prices at its launch price of $449, the price of the previous-generation Switch increased by $40 to $50, and other accessories like Joy-Con 2 controllers also got a price bump. The list price of the older console has since reverted to pre-tariff prices, but the company refused to refund customers who bought at the higher prices.

“Nintendo or one of its retailers set a price for each product, and consumers decided whether that price was worth paying,” Nintendo’s lawyers said. “Those who bought Nintendo’s products received exactly what they bargained and paid for: a console, game and/or accessory at a price to which both parties agreed.”

There aren't too many wireless charging mouse pads on the market, which is perhaps a little surprising given how many wireless gaming mice there are. Possibly there just isn't that much demand for wireless charging mouse pads. After all, not many people want to pay $100+ when the best gaming mouse pads start at much, much lower prices.

The Razer HyperFlux V2, introduced about a year ago, is the current version of the brand's wireless charging mouse pad lineup, which debuted back in 2018. The HyperFlux V2 supports several of Razer's current mice from three of its lines — Naga, Basilisk, and Cobra — but not from the DeathAdder or Viper lines. It comes in hard and soft editions, both of which are priced at $119.99.

Design of the HyperFlux V2

The HyperFlux V2 comes in two variations — a hard edition, which has a hard, polycarbonate surface designed for speed; and a cloth edition, which has a soft, cloth surface for control. Both versions share the same specs, aside from surface type. For this review, we tested the hard edition.

The HyperFlux V2 is a medium-sized gaming mouse pad that's a little larger than other medium-sized gaming mouse pads. It measures 16 inches (360mm) wide by 12.24 inches (311mm) long, so it shouldn't take up too much space on the average gaming desk. The surface itself is only 0.2 inches (5mm) thick, though the power/charging module at the top is around 0.52 inches (13.3mm) thick. The HyperFlux V2 is slightly larger than Logitech's PowerPlay 2, which measures 13.54 x 11.14 x 0.14 inches (344 x 238 x 3.5mm). But both should fit on your desk pretty easily.

The mouse pad has a hard, microtextured polycarbonate surface surrounded by a shiny plastic bezel. It's not particularly luxurious-looking, but the surface is flat and consistent and seems fairly easy to clean, though dust does seem to gather in the (very tiny) gap between the surface and the bezel.

There's a long, thin charging module at the top of the mouse pad, in the center. It's longer and more prominent than the PowerPlay 2's charging module, but it's also better integrated into the design. It's very similar to the power module in the Razer Firefly V2 Pro. In the center of the charging module, there's a 1.25-inch (32mm) LED indicator light, which lights up to indicate the mouse's charging status and battery level.

The bottom of the mouse pad is fully lined with an anti-slip rubber base to keep it from moving around on your desk.

The HyperFlux V2 comes with just two accessories — a wireless charging puck and a USB-C to USB-A adapter, as the mouse pad has a non-detachable USB-C cable. The cable is similar to the non-detachable, rubber cable on the PowerPlay 2.

Specs

Performance of the HyperFlux V2

The point of the HyperFlux V2 is to eliminate the need for you to manually charge your wireless Razer mouse, and it executes this... exactly as expected. All you need to do is replace the puck on the bottom of your compatible wireless Razer mouse. I'm using the recently-launched Razer Naga V3 Pro, but other compatible mice include the Naga V2 Pro, the Basilisk V3 Pro, the Basilisk V3 Pro 35K, the Cobra HyperSpeed, and the Cobra Pro with the included wireless charging puck that comes with the HyperFlux V2. Then, place the mouse on the mouse pad and, assuming the mouse pad is plugged in, it will automatically detect the mouse and pair with it wirelessly. (I did have a minor hiccup with this process, but we'll talk about that later.)

I will point out that the HyperFlux V2 has a polling rate that tops out at the standard 1,000 Hz. If you want to get a higher polling rate, such as 4,000 or 8,000 Hz, with your mouse, you'll need to connect via Razer's HyperPolling Wireless Dongle ($40) or Razer's Mouse Dock Pro ($70), both of which are sold separately. You can still use the HyperFlux V2 as a wireless charging mat, even if you aren't connected through it.

As for the mouse pad's surface, I didn't have any complaints, but I also wasn't particularly impressed. The hard surface version of the HyperFlux V2 is hard, micro-textured polycarbonate with a slight sheen. It's designed for speed, and while it seemed fast enough, it wasn't anywhere near the smooth, speedy glide of a glass mouse pad such as Razer's Atlas. The mice I tested with it — the Naga V3 Pro and the Basilisk V3 Pro 35K — had no issues with tracking and accuracy, but that's not particularly surprising as the sensors in modern-day premium gaming mice are all pretty consistently great at tracking on any sort of traditional mouse pad surface. The surface is textured enough that precision wasn't an issue, though the mouse pad also comes in a cloth surface version for those who need just a little more control. And the full rubber backing ensured that the surface remained perfectly level at all times.

If you ignore the wireless charging part, the HyperFlux V2 is a decent mouse pad. It's not particularly impressive, exciting, or attractive to look at if you don't have a wireless mouse in need of charging. I do like the size. There's plenty of room for big mouse swipes, and the mouse pad still fits very easily next to a full-size keyboard setup. It's a few inches larger than the PowerPlay 2, and the difference in surface area is noticeable.

But let's be serious — you're buying this mouse pad for the wireless charging and connection. And it does do both of these things pretty seamlessly; it's definitely a "set it and forget it" type of product. But without the wireless charging/connection, you definitely wouldn't give it a second glance.

Features and Software of the HyperFlux V2

The HyperFlux V2 does connect to Razer's universal peripheral app, Synapse 4, even though it doesn't have a ton of customization options (it doesn't have any RGB lighting, for example). Still, it's useful for managing what devices are or aren't paired to the HyperFlux V2. The mouse pad features "seamless auto-pairing," which means all you have to do is put the charging puck in a compatible wireless mouse and place it on the mouse pad, and it should pair automatically.

This wasn't perfectly seamless for me, however, as I already had the Razer Naga V2 Pro with a wireless charging puck from the Razer Mouse Dock Pro inside it — and when I set it down on the HyperFlux V2 to put the charging puck in the Razer Naga V3 Pro, the mouse pad recognized and paired with the Naga V2 Pro. While the mouse pad is apparently compatible with other Razer charging pucks, it can only pair with one mouse at a time, so I had to unpair the Naga V2 Pro before I could pair the Naga V3 Pro (the Mouse Dock Pro puck also only appears to work for connecting, not charging).

The HyperFlux V2 does support multi-device pairing, just not multi-mouse pairing. It can pair with a mouse (via the charging puck) and a compatible wireless Razer keyboard simultaneously, which lets you free up a USB slot.

There's also a battery health optimizer option in Synapse 4, which automatically turns off wireless charging when the mouse reaches a certain battery level percentage (adjustable, from 50% to 80%).

The Bottom Line

The Razer HyperFlux V2 works as intended — it charges compatible wireless Razer gaming mice as you use them, so you'll never have to worry about docking your mouse or plugging it in to keep the juice up. There's not a lot of competition on the market, aside from Logitech's PowerPlay 2, and there's basically no competition if you already own a Razer mouse.

The HyperFlux V2 shares some of the issues we didn't love on the PowerPlay 2; specifically, it feels a little cheaper, overall, than its $120 price tag would suggest. Like the PowerPlay 2, it has a non-detachable rubber USB-C cable and comes with a wireless charging puck that plugs into the bottom of your mouse. It's larger than the PowerPlay 2, though its charging module takes up more of the actual mouse pad real estate. Like the PowerPlay 2, it acts as both a wireless charging pad and a wireless receiver, and you can free up a couple of USB ports on your PC by connecting via this receiver. It can also simultaneously connect to a compatible wireless Razer keyboard, if you happen to be fully inundated in the Razer ecosystem.

Also like the PowerPlay 2, the HyperFlux V2 works best for those who are fully inundated in (or plan to be) the brand's ecosystem. At the end of the day, the best wireless charging mouse pad for you really comes down to which company made your wireless mouse of choice. Don't get me wrong, the HyperFlux V2 will remain on my desk for the foreseeable future, but only because my main mouse is the Razer Naga V3 Pro.

A Blu-ray drive has got tech fans excited over on Kickstarter. This project has hit 160x the initial (but low) funding goal just halfway through the campaign. The device that has caught plenty of eyeballs and pledges is the BluHub: 9-in-1 Blu-ray Hub for Memories, Ports & Storage, to give it its full, overly long title. We’ll just call it the BluHub from now. Why is it so popular? We think the combination of a USB-attached Blu-ray read/write drive (also DVD and CD compatible, of course) plus extensive docking abilities looks quite attractive. Its ‘super early bird’ price of $59 is not frightening either. But the cherry on top here may be the BluHub’s unique ‘grand piano styling.’

As a 9-in-1 device, there are a lot of specs to work through. So we’ve made a table to set out the capabilities of the BluHub as clearly and succinctly as possible.

When I first saw this device, I naturally thought the optic disc exposed when the 'piano lid' was propped open was the one accessed by the computer. That rekindled my memories of owning an original PlayStation back in the day. However, that top tray is just a spare disc holder. The actual disc you will be reading / writing is inserted via a tray that pops out of the side, like from a slimline laptop drive of old. The device maker describes this as a “one in use, one on display dual-disc experience.” Might we suggest you keep a high-brow movie classic in the top display holder, like Jeanne Dielman, 23 quai du Commerce, 1080 Bruxelles (1975), while in the drive you can secret away your guilty pleasure of the day, something like Con Air (1997).

From the look of it and the specs, the BluHub seems like a reasonable choice for a flexible hub that can handle most of the optical discs you have in your collection. Of course, we’d recommend waiting for a review to make sure capability and quality promises live up to expectations. However, the crunch is that this drive is being offered to Kickstarter backers from $59. Very sensible folks who wait for retail availability and expert reviews are warned that it will subsequently cost from $129. The first batches of drives are expected to ship to backers starting November 2026, if all goes to plan. U.S. shipping for one drive is $6 or $7 to ROW.

Our customary crowdfunder disclaimer applies. Remember that crowdfunding a project is not a guarantee of receiving a finished product. Backing a crowdfunded project is akin to an investment; you believe in the project and want it to succeed. You are not purchasing a retail product.

Some reckon it is a good time to grab a Blu-ray drive such as this, with industry big hitters like Sony and LG showing signs of pulling back from this market. Media makers are also thinning out. There are plenty of alternatives to this BluHub already on the market though. For lesser-known Chinese Blu-ray read/write drives, a price of around $70 seems to be the going rate on Amazon.com. A drive from a well-known brand like Asus or LG will cost much more. The cheapest portable Asus Blu-ray rewriter we saw today is being sold for $159.

We’ve seen many innovative projects crash and burn at the crowdfunding stage, but the Photon Matrix is one that has successfully made it to market. According to the company’s last Indiegogo update, it has started mass production of the anti-mosquito device and expects to ship the first devices later this month. You can also now purchase the Photon Matrix Infrared and Blue Laser Mosquito Air Defense directly from its website, so you don’t have to be an early supporter to get one.

The Photon Matrix has been a long time coming; it entered the crowdfunding stage last July. It promised to shoot down bugs within a six-meter radius across a 90-degree horizontal scanning plane. While it uses a laser beam to strike down mosquitoes, it uses LiDAR, mmWave radar, and an AI vision module to detect targets between 2mm and 20 mm in size moving at or below 3.3 feet per second (1 meter per second).

The manufacturer’s test videos suggest it's quite effective at shooting down these pesky bugs. Nevertheless, we want to see this product in the hands of independent reviewers and how it performs in the real world. If it works as intended, the Photon Matrix Laser Mosquito Air Defense unit could be a game changer for homes and hospitals, especially in places where mosquito-borne diseases remain a major threat to public health.

This gadget costs a pretty penny, though. The infrared laser version, designed for homes, costs $988, while the blue laser version, which is ideal for industrial use, costs $100 more at $1,088. There are also questions about the safety of using a laser device that can shoot down mosquitoes in close proximity to humans (especially human eyes), but the Photon Matrix has passed stringent certifications to ensure that it will not harm people, pets, and even birds that happen to fly across the device’s target range.

People have been thinking of ways to control mosquitoes for hundreds of years, especially since it was discovered that they are vectors of certain diseases that have killed millions. While chemical-based pesticides were somewhat helpful in keeping their numbers down, they also negatively affect human and animal health. This makes the mosquito air defense system an excellent alternative, as it protects only the area where it is deployed and doesn’t use noxious chemicals.

Another user has been building their own system using lasers, a DSLR, and an AI model to build their own mosquito zapper, although this is just a prototype and will likely take a few more years before it can compete against the Photon Matrix. We also saw an autonomous micro-drone that serves as a combat air patrol against mosquitoes with a range of 26 feet. While this might sound like a fun, novel solution, it will likely be noisy and quite disturbing, making the Photon Matrix a more practical solution for fixed deployments.

Keychron, which is known for making some of the best mechanical keyboards, just announced the C100 8K macro pad, which is available on Amazon and the Keychron website for $64.99. This massive device features a 10-by-10 customizable keyboard, allowing you to set its functionality as needed (except for the four corner keys). It also uses exclusive pre-lubed Keychron Apex tactile switches, paired with transparent ASA keycaps, making it easier to see its per-key RGB lighting.

• Get the Keychron C100 8K on Amazon

The C100 8K is not just any macro pad, though. It features hot-swappable switches, so you can easily replace the Keychron Apex switches with ones that you prefer. It also has an 8K polling rate, making it the perfect macro pad for high-stakes competitive matches. This makes it the perfect addition for those who need a macro pad for both gaming and productivity. The online Keychron QMK launcher also makes it easy to customize the keyboard without requiring you to install software directly on your PC.

This macro pad is compatible with Windows, macOS, and Linux, meaning it will work with most major desktop operating systems. It’s the perfect addition for those who want to be more efficient and find that their MMORPG mouse still doesn’t offer enough buttons for their needs. Because Keychron is known for making some of the best wireless and budget mechanical keyboards, we have high expectations for the functionality and feel of the C100 8K. The only drawback that we can see is that it doesn’t come with a wireless option, so it might be annoying or even a no-go to those who want a wire-free desk.

100 keys might be overkill for most people, but these are actually crucial for those with specialized workloads. Aside from productivity enthusiasts and gamers who want to keep all complicated macros and commands at their fingertips, these are also useful for video editors who work on projects that have hundreds of layers, photo editors working on thousands of images, programmers who frequently input the same commands over and over again, and more. This is also great for sim enthusiasts who want to recreate all the buttons found in race cars, aircraft, trucks, and more, without spending more money on specialized panels. And if they have access to a 3D printer, they can even build their own specialized keycaps for the C100 8K macro pad, turning it from a generic macro pad into something that shows the actual buttons they use for their sims.

Commodore has brought back the “Totally Accurate Controller” joystick, better known by C64 and Amiga aficionados from the 80s as the TAC-2. In an email to Tom’s Hardware, a Commodore exec explained that used TAC-2s are becoming rare. “Secondhand units in decent shape go for $100 or more,” it was noted, so the decision was made to remake these controllers that have been out of production for more than 40 years. Commodore has sprinkled some worthwhile new and improved features on the TAC-2, too, pricing the new model at $49.99.

• See the new Commodore TAC-2 Joystick

In addition to the observed shortage/skyrocketing pricing of used TAC-2 units on marketplaces like eBay, Commodore surveyed its fans before deciding to remake the TAC-2. Apparently, it was one of the top two suggestions from fans. The other one was “something called an ‘Amiga,’ whatever that is,” teased Commodore in its official press release. Amiga talks are ongoing, so a revamped 16-bit home computer isn’t ready yet.

The original TAC-2 controller was released in 1983 by a firm called Suncom and earned a reputation for durability, backed by manufacturer claims that units had been tested for 3 million moves without failure. It also earned a reputation for accuracy, and fire buttons on its left and right front corners made the TAC-2 a great choice for both right-handed and sinistral folk.

After securing exclusive trademark rights, Commodore has set out to not just remake but meaningfully enhance the TAC-2 for 2026. Starting from the outside, there’s the chicken-lips logo integration… That’s not all though, as Commodore has also decided to reissue the TAC-2 in five colorways. These include three options that mirror the C64 Ultimate, providing BASIC Beige, Starlight, and Founders (gold) color options. It has added LEDs in the clicky fire buttons of these models, too, which is new. Two further color options are C= White (like the C64C) and Knight Black, and “for purists,” these eschew the LEDs.

Beyond the cosmetics, it is good to hear Commodore has actually strengthened the assembly at the heart of this joystick. Apparently the original design used an automobile TR-418 tire valve assembly, but as these are “made with weaker, thinner copper today,” Commodore has fabricated its own steel shaft, boasting “we think ours is even stronger.”

Just like the original, the TAC-2 connects using a 9-pin controller port so will work with your original retro gaming hardware, including the C64 Ultimate. Commodore reminds those eyeing this stick that USB adaptors are easily sourced via various outlets, so you can use joysticks like the TAC-2 with modern PCs and devices. This joystick measures 101 x 101 x 114mm, weighs about 300g, and the supplied cable is 2 meters in length.

You can purchase a new TAC-2 for $49.99, or $64 for a limited Founders Edition with gold PVD accents. Pre-orders are open, and shipping will commence on October 20, 2026.

If you know anything about me, you know I love a mouse with 19+ buttons. That's why I've been using Razer's Naga V2 Pro as my daily driver for the past three and a half years — and I have no regrets; it's on our list of best gaming mice for a reason. Thankfully, Razer must've heard my V2 Pro begging for its life, because there's a new multi-button MMO mouse in town with up to 23 programmable buttons: the Razer Naga V3 Pro.

The Naga V3 Pro is very similar to its predecessor at a glance — because Razer hasn't changed the mouse's form factor at all. It still comes with three swappable magnetic side plates (in 2-, 6- and 12-button layouts), but that's where the similarities end. The new Naga V3 Pro sports Razer's latest Focus Pro 50K gen-3 optical sensor, which has a maximum sensitivity of 50,000 DPI and a maximum speed of 930 IPS, and can handle up to 90 G's of force. It's not cheap, as the Naga lineup never has been, with an MSRP of $180 — pricier than most premium flagship gaming mice because it is, after all, all about versatility.

Design and Comfort

Like some of Razer's other new mice, the Naga V3 Pro has the exact same shape as its predecessor — it's a shorter, wider mouse than most flagship premium mice, measuring 4.7 x 2.97 x 1.72 inches (119.5 x 75.5 x 43.5mm). It's still a larger mouse overall, just a different shape. It has a right-handed ergonomic shape with a contoured thumb area, with interchangeable plates and a curved ring finger rest on the right side. It has a matte black plastic shell and features three RGB light zones in the scroll wheel, the logo on the palm rest, and on the side panel.

The mouse weighs slightly less than its predecessor: 3.9 ounces (112g) without the side plate or cable attached; the side plates weigh 20g (12-button), 17g (6-button), and 15g (2-button). The Naga V2 Pro weighed 134g regardless of the side plate. Its side plates — which are the same 12-button, 6-button, and 2-button layouts as the side plates from the Naga V2 Pro — now feature more durable double-shot molded keycaps, so they should last longer and the legends should remain crisp and readable throughout the mouse's lifetime (not that anyone is really looking at the legends on their mouse buttons).

The mouse has three buttons the Naga V2 Pro doesn't have — in addition to its primary left/right buttons, tilt wheel, two buttons above the tilt wheel, and profile switch on the bottom. There are now two edge buttons on the left side of the left mouse button (set by default to scroll up and down through DPI steps) and the ring finger rest has also been turned into a button (set by default to activate Razer's HyperShift for multi-layer inputs). I didn't have any problems with accidentally pressing the ring finger rest button, but there is a locking switch that lets you quickly disable it (it actually stops it from clicking at all, which is nice) if you do have issues.

The Naga V3 Pro has a multi-mode tilt wheel with three distinct modes: tactile, free-spin, and precision tactile. The scroll modes can be toggled off, but they aren't fully configurable like the customizable scroll feature in the Naga V2 Pro. This seems fine, though — the customizable scroll feature in the Naga V2 Pro seemed like overkill to implement with very minor benefits, and I prefer just a few distinct modes to something that you can fully customize.

That said, I kind of wish the distinct modes had been slightly better implemented, as I found the free scroll to be especially over-sensitive — even just resting my finger next to the scroll wheel often caused it to activate. There's a setting in Synapse 4 that automatically switches over to free scroll mode when you're scrolling fast enough, but I didn't like this because there's an audible click every time it switches. The button directly next to the wheel is set to move through scroll modes by default, while the button above that is set to open up Razer's AI Prompt Master.

On the bottom of the mouse, you'll find a power switch, a programmable profile switch button, and the ring finger rest lock, as well as PTFE mouse feet and a dummy mouse puck that can be swapped in with charging pucks from Razer accessories.

In the box, the Naga V3 Pro comes with a 6-foot (1.8m) braided USB-C to USB-A cable, three interchangeable side plates, a USB-A dongle, and a USB-A to USB-C adapter. The cable is braided but it's fairly stiff — it's definitely not flexible or drag-free, like Razer's HyperFlux cables it usually bundles with its mice. You can use it as a mouse cable, but you probably won't want to.

Specs

Performance

The Naga V3 Pro features Razer's latest Focus Pro 50K Gen-4 optical sensor, which has a maximum sensitivity of 50,000 DPI and a maximum speed of 930 IPS, and can handle up to 90 G's of force. These are kind of crazy specs for a mouse considering most people won't use a DPI above 3,200 or so — what you need to know is that it's a great sensor that tracks across a variety of surfaces with excellent accuracy. It's speedy, too, though this is not the kind of mouse most people will be moving around lightning fast and picking up, as it's more than twice the weight of ultra-lightweight mice such as Razer's DeathAdder V4 Pro.

The mouse also features Razer's Gen-4 optical mouse switches, which are rated for up to 100 million clicks and offer crisp, tactile feedback. The feedback does feel slightly crisper and more deliberate than the switches in the Naga V2 Pro, but it's not a very significant difference and you definitely can't tell unless you're using both side-by-side. Still, at 100 million clicks they should last as long as the mouse does.

These switches are only in the primary mouse buttons, not the side panel buttons — though the side panel buttons still felt fairly crisp and gave nice tactile feedback. The only buttons I didn't love on the Naga V3 Pro were the edge buttons on the left side of the left mouse button — they were a little too far to the left to be comfortable, and they had a very soft, mushy, lackluster click.

The Naga V3 Pro ships with a 1,000 Hz polling rate and a 1,000 Hz polling rate is the highest you're going to get unless you make a separate purchase. The mouse is capable of getting up to an 8,000 Hz polling rate, but you'll need to purchase either Razer's Mouse Dock Pro or its HyperPolling Wireless Dongle in order to achieve polling rates higher than 1,000 Hz.

Features and Software

The Naga V3 Pro is programmable via Razer Synapse 4, and you'll almost certainly want to do some customizing since the default settings have the side panel buttons programmed to numbers (except for the two-button side panel, which is MB4 / MB5). Luckily Synapse 4 didn't give me too much trouble with calibration or bringing my Naga V2 Pro settings over to the Naga V3 Pro.

Synapse 4 lets you remap buttons, customize the tilt wheel, and adjust settings such as DPI steps and polling rate. It features a built-in automatic mouse calibration tool that lets you match your current mouse's DPI (this worked flawlessly for me, but I was matching the Naga V3 Pro to the Naga V2 Pro), as well as some surface calibration settings you can play with. You can also customize the mouse's RGB lighting zones, of which there are three — tilt wheel, side panel, and palm rest logo.

Wireless Experience and Battery Life

The Naga V3 Pro has 3 forms of connectivity — 2.4GHz wireless, Bluetooth, and wired (via USB-C). Razer rates its battery life at up to 155 hours over its 2.4GHz wireless connection, which is pretty solid for a wireless mouse with so much going on — though this will of course vary depending on your polling rate and lighting settings. It's compatible with Razer's HyperFlux V2 Wireless charging mouse pad, however, which makes its battery life technically endless.

Bottom Line

The Naga V3 Pro is a solid update to the Naga V2 Pro, which I've been using for (literally) years. It looks and feels almost identical to the Naga V2 Pro, which I appreciate — the Naga V2 Pro is a very comfortable, if not particularly speed-optimized, gaming mouse — and it's got some nice upgrades in the sensor, switches, and buttons.

These days, the market is mostly dominated by stripped-down, ultra-lightweight eSports-oriented mice, and so it's nice to see that there's still a place for MMO-oriented mice with buttons in the double digits. The Naga V3 Pro isn't the only mouse with a 12-button side panel, but there isn't a ton of competition — we weren't wowed by SteelSeries' Aerox 9 Wireless, and Corsair's Scimitar Elite SE Wireless has an uncomfortably concave side panel (though it does move forward and backward, if that's something you're looking for). If you're looking for a mouse with a ton of buttons — not counting inputs that are duplicated via software — the Naga V3 Pro is now your best bet.

We've seen a keyboard with a built-in macro pad, and a keyboard with a touchscreen and a separate, add-on numberpad, but what if you want a keyboard with a numberpad and a built-in macropad without having to spend an extra $100?

I guess that's why there's the Turtle Beach KB5 — a full-size, wired mechanical keyboard with low-profile switches, an 8,000 Hz polling rate, and a built-in 2.4-inch touchscreen that functions as a mini macro pad (with six buttons). It's got the built-in numberpad, unlike the Corsair Galleon 100 SD and the Turtle Beach KB7, as well as the touchscreen / macro pad, though its version is about half the size. Still, maybe that's all you really need. The KB5 is also significantly cheaper than both of those keyboards, which retail for $300 and $200, respectively.

The Turtle Beach KB5 is available now, in black, for $149.99.

Design and Construction of the KB5

The KB5 is a full-size low-profile wired mechanical gaming keyboard with extra macro keys, a volume roller, and a full-color 2.4-inch touchscreen in the upper-right corner (above the 10-key numberpad). It has a roomy layout and is slightly larger than the average full-size keyboard, measuring approximately 18.78 inches (477 mm) wide by 6.89 inches (175 mm) deep. It's 1.06 inches (27mm) thick at its thickest point, including the keycaps.

The KB5 has a silver brushed-aluminum top plate with a coppery accent in the upper-left corner. It has a sturdy metal roller bar on the top toward the left side — though it's not really close enough to the left side to be in the corner, and I found it a bit awkward to have to reach over my function row to use the roller. I would have preferred it in a corner or even on the side, like the volume roller on the NZXT Function 2. It's a nicely-built roller, however — thick, metal, clickable, and with etched diagonal lines for grip.

The keyboard also has a row of five macro keys on the left side, as well as a 2.5-inch color touchscreen in the upper-right corner, above the 10-key numberpad. The touchscreen bumps up past the rest of the keyboard — the touchscreen side is just under 7 inches deep, while the other side is about 6.25 inches deep — so it doesn't cut into your keys. The KB5 has a full function row, a full 3x2 navigation cluster, arrow keys, and a full 10-key numberpad, along with the standard alphanumeric keys.

The KB5 features Turtle Beach's (formerly Roccat's) signature aesthetic — an open board with flat, shallow keycaps that leave the switch exposed, which makes for both easy cleaning and brighter, more visible RGB lighting. The keycaps are low-profile double-shot PBT, with shine-through legends; the board comes with four textured keycaps that you can use to replace the W/A/S/D keys (or, I guess, any four keys) for better recognition.

The bottom of the board is plastic, with six rubber anti-slip pads and two sets of plastic flip-out feet for angling the keyboard toward you. It's a fairly lightweight keyboard, weighing just under 2 pounds (1.96lbs / 887g), not including the wrist rest (which weighs an additional 7.5 ounces / 213g). This is about the same as the Logitech G515 Lightspeed, though the G515 is a TKL while the KB5 is full-size (plus a touchscreen and macro keys).

In the box, the KB5 comes with a plastic wrist rest, a 5.9-foot (1.8m) USB-C to USB-A cable, four textured keycaps for replacing the W / A / S / D keys, and a keycap puller.

Specs

Typing and Gaming Experience on the KB5

The KB5 comes with Turtle Beach's Titan low-profile linear switches, which are rated for up to 50 million keypresses and have an actuation point of 1.2mm and a force of 42gf. These are traditional low-profile mechanical switches — not magnetic Hall Effect switches like you'll find on the KB7 (and KP7). They're linear, which means a smooth keypress with no audible or tactile bump, and they're pre-lubed so they're pretty smooth.

While I'm not a huge fan of linear switches, the KB5's are quick and stable, and you get a decent little 'thunk' when you bottom out on the keyboard's aluminum top plate. The typing experience is very similar to that of the KB7, which is to say that it's very pleasant for a mainstream gaming keyboard with low-profile linear switches.

The keyboard has flat, shallow keycaps made of double-shot PBT. They have a slightly matte texture and should resist shine better than ABS keycaps, but I'm not fully convinced that'll be the case (maybe they just feel cheaper because they're thinner, overall, than regular keycaps, though). The keycaps are wide, with slightly curved tops, and the keyboard is roomy — I didn't have any problem getting used to the layout for the most part, though the extra row of macro keys on the left did throw me off a few times (this happens whenever there's an extra row of macro keys).

The touchscreen is located above the numberpad, and is fairly responsive. It responds to both taps and swipes (you can swipe through "pages" of controls / buttons), and I found the 2 x 3 layout a little more intuitive to navigate than the KB7's much larger layout — though still not as intuitive as it would be with tactile buttons, like the Corsair Galleon 100 SD has. In addition to the six customizable "buttons" on the touchscreen, there's also some other info displayed at the top — your current profile (you can switch between profiles by tapping this) and some keyboard info (e.g. numlock, caps lock, scroll lock).

The KB5 is also a solid keyboard for gaming, thanks to its quick, responsive linear switches and 8K polling rate. While it doesn't have magnetic switches like its pricier sibling, it does implement Turtle Beach's ReacTap, which is a software solution similar to simultaneous opposing cardinal directions (SOCD).

Features and Software of the KB5

Like all Turtle Beach products, the KB5 ships with firmware from 2001 (or at least it feels like it) and requires at least 16 mandatory updates before it can be used with the brand's Swarm II software. I'm exaggerating, of course — but not much.

Once I managed to get the KB5 up to date on firmware (and Swarm II up to date on software), I was able to customize the touchscreen, keyboard, and lighting. Swarm II is kind of mandatory for this keyboard, as you can't really customize the touchscreen without it — and the touchscreen is a large part of the selling point here. There's not a ton you can do with the touchscreen that you can't do with regular keys, at the moment. There are options for keyboard / Windows / multimedia functions, opening apps and websites, and assigning macros. And there are a couple of "dynamic" options such as a timer setting and performance monitoring, but it's not a robust ecosystem like that of Elgato or Loupedeck. Still, it's probably enough to get you started, and the Swarm II app includes a handful of templates in case you're out of ideas.

Keymapping is pretty straightforward, and you can map keys to do most of what you can map the touchscreen to do (save for visual things, such as performance monitoring, obviously). You can record and save macros in the app and configure ReacTap. You can also customize the lighting from a handful of presets (or per-key, if you so desire). The keyboard can save up to five onboard profiles, which you can switch between by tapping the profile number in the upper-left corner of the touchscreen.

The Bottom Line

The KB5 is actually a pretty nice compromise, and I like it better than the pricier (and fancier) Turtle Beach KB7. I love having a built-in numberpad that doesn't cost an extra $100 to snap onto the side of the board, and the smaller touchscreen is actually more manageable to use quickly and without (really) looking. The KB5 may not have magnetic Hall Effect switches, but its low-profile linear switches feel and sound pretty good for a mainstream gaming keyboard. And at $150, it's basically half the price of the combined KB7 keyboard and KP7 numberpad.

Of course, if you're really dedicated to making your keyboard a streaming deck substitute, the Corsair Galleon 100 SD is the only real option. Not only does it have physical buttons, it also has knobs — and it's supported by Elgato's Stream Deck software, which is still the real differentiating factor for macropad and touchscreen devices these days.

There are plenty of ultra-lightweight gaming mice in our best gaming mice picks — but there aren't any that have a built-in hand cooler.

Pulsar recently released a collaboration with infamous air-cooling advocate Noctua — a beige and brown mouse full of top-tier hardware and holes and a built-in 40mm NF-A4x10 fan. For cooling your hand, not the hardware. This eSports-oriented gaming mouse features Pulsar's XS-2 sensor, which has a maximum resolution of 42,000 DPI and a maximum speed of 800 IPS, and can handle up to 70 G's of force. It also features up to an 8,000 Hz polling rate, and, of course, the built-in fan. It retails for the same price as the original Feinmann F01 gaming mouse, which is to say, it's pretty pricey at $179.99.

Design and Comfort of the F01 Noctua Edition

The F01 Noctua Edition is a lightweight wireless eSports gaming mouse with an ergonomic right-handed shape and a hole-filled chassis with a built-in fan. It comes in Noctua's signature beige-and-brown color scheme: The top part of the chassis is light beige, while the bottom and accents (side buttons, scroll wheel, Noctua's logo plate, and some interior elements) are brown.

The F01 Noctua Edition has a right-handed, ergonomic shape with contoured primary mouse buttons and an off-center hump. It's a little smaller than most mainstream gaming mice, measuring 4.79 inches (121.7mm) long by 2.62 inches (66.5mm) wide and 1.7 inches (43.3mm) high at its thickest point. It weighs 2.57 ounces (73g), which is on the heavier side for what is supposed to be an ultra-lightweight eSports mouse. It's about an ounce heavier than the regular Pulsar Feinmann F01, which weighs 1.62 ounces (46g), thanks to the built-in fan.

The mouse features a matte chassis made of a carbon composite material for durability. The chassis is full of holes, but at least they serve a purpose (sort of) other than reducing weight and triggering your trypophobia: they're also there to keep your hand cool. In the center of the mouse you'll see a mini Noctua fan that directs air upward — toward your palm. You can activate this fan by holding down both side buttons and scrolling up. There are four different fan speeds, indicated by the small LED indicator light on the left side of the mouse, which you can cycle through by scrolling up or down with both. Holding down both buttons and scrolling down turns the fan off.

Button-wise, it's pretty standard: primary mouse buttons, two side buttons, a power button / DPI switch on the bottom, and a ridged, notched scroll wheel made of aluminum alloy. The mouse feels sturdy and the metal scroll wheel makes it seem a little fancier — it definitely looks and feels pretty premium. I did think the side buttons felt like they were placed a little too far back, but after comparing the F01 Noctua Edition with other mice, the actual issue is that the side buttons are larger than average — and this results in the back button sitting further back on the chassis. It wasn't a dealbreaker, but I found it mildly uncomfortable.

The bottom of the mouse features two large PTFE mouse feet at the top and bottom, as well as a strip of PTFE around the sensor. There are five geometric cutouts surrounding the sensor, as well as the power button / DPI switch.

The mouse comes with a separate 8K polling dongle, which has two buttons (a programmable profile switch button and a DPI switch), and a 6-foot (1.8m) detachable, braided USB-C to USB-A cable. Both the dongle and the cable come in Noctua's signature colors (the dongle is brown and the cable has a beige fabric covering with brown accents).

Specs

Performance of the F01 Noctua Edition

The F01 Noctua Edition mouse features Pulsar's XS-2 optical sensor, which has a maximum resolution of 42,000 DPI and a maximum speed of 800 IPS, and can handle up to 70 G's of force. The mouse also features Pulsar's optical switches in its primary buttons (rated for up to 100 million clicks), and can get up to an 8,000 Hz polling rate. The sensor doesn't disappoint — its tracking was accurate and speedy in my tests, and it worked perfectly across a variety of surfaces (including glass). The only thing I can see affecting performance in this mouse is its weight — it's not heavy, but it's heavier than most of its competition.

As I mentioned earlier, at 73g the mouse is on the heavy side for an ultra-lightweight eSports mouse — and it's an entire ounce heavier than the fan-less version. I guess that makes sense considering... there's a fan inside it, but still. If you're looking for an ultra-lightweight gaming mouse and you're not particularly intrigued by the fan, there are lighter, cheaper mice out there, such as my favorite Razer DeathAdder V4 Pro, which weighs 56g and costs $169.99.

I'll admit I was a bit skeptical about the fan — I'm not really a person who suffers from sweaty palms while I'm gaming, however, so I'm aware I'm not the target audience. But as someone who is not the target audience, I have to say that the fan is actually pretty cool (pun intended). It's small, yes, but you can definitely feel it — and even though I don't sweat much, it still felt pretty good. The fan has four speeds, and the first two are practically silent. You can hear the two fastest speeds, but it's not particularly loud — you'll notice it, but those around you probably won't.

Activating the fan using the two side buttons and scroll wheel was easy enough, though the side buttons will activate when you press them, so it's not perfect. You can also turn on and adjust the fan speed in the software and/or you can program one of the buttons on the dongle to cycle through speeds.

If you do get sweaty palms while gaming, or you just happen to live and game in a hot environment, the fan in this mouse definitely works. It takes a toll on battery life, of course, but you can always plug it in. That said, that part of the mouse is practically non-existent, the holes are so big (it's even more full of holes than the Corsair Sabre v2 Pro Wireless MG). The structure of the mouse honestly keeps your hand — or at least your palm — pretty cool, even without a fan.

Features and Software of the F01 Noctua Edition

The F01 Noctua Edition is largely controllable via the hardware, which is nice. The fan can be activated and adjusted by holding down the two side buttons and scrolling, and DPI can be cycled through using the DPI switch button on the bottom of the mouse or the DPI switch button on the wireless dongle. The dongle also has a function button that cycles through onboard profiles by default — so you will need to connect to Pulsar's web-based peripheral software, Bibimbap, if you want to take advantage of this.

With Bibimbap — which you can connect to wirelessly — lets you remap keys (there are five programmable buttons, including the scroll wheel click) and has a built-in macro recorder. You can also adjust various settings, including DPI steps (up to 6), polling rate (ships with 1,000 Hz and goes up to 8,000 Hz), LOD or liftoff distance, and debounce time. You can also turn on the fan from this app, if you want. You can save up to five profiles directly on the mouse and cycle through them with the function button, or you can remap the function button to cycle through polling rate, LOD, debounce time, motion sync, turbo mode, and fan mode. That last one just does the same thing that holding down both mouse buttons and scrolling does, but it doesn't accidentally activate the side button functions.

Wireless Experience and Battery Life of the F01 Noctua Edition

The F01 Noctua Edition features two forms of connectivity: 2.4GHz wireless and wired (via USB-C). It doesn't have any RGB lighting, but it does have a built-in 40mm 5V PWM NF-A4x10 fan with four different speed settings. Oh, and an 8,000 Hz polling rate. Needless to say, its battery life varies quite a bit, depending on how you have it set up. Its built-in battery is 500mAh, which is... well, don't expect much when it comes to battery life. Based on my observations as I tested the mouse, I think you'll still be able to eke out a full day's worth of usage if you have the fan running at top speed, which is not a lot compared to most wireless mice, but not bad, considering.

Bottom Line

The F01 Noctua Edition is a very well-built lightweight gaming mouse, but its main selling point is definitely the built-in fan. And the built-in fan works pretty well — I was definitely impressed, even if I don't see myself using it very often (or at all, really). But if you don't need a mouse with a built-in fan, it's hard to recommend the F01 Noctua Edition over just about any other lighter, more affordable mouse, including Pulsar's own fan-free Feinmann F01. The Corsair Sabre v2 Pro Wireless, for example, weighs just 56g and has a shell full of holes, gets up to an 8,000 Hz polling rate and retails for $149.99.

Valve's second-gen Steam Controller has been a major hit with the community thanks to the company's open approach to its hardware. Modders have already used the haptic motors inside to move it across a desk and charge automatically, while others have built their own open-source pucks. Now, a new project from Pixel1011, called "Steam Haptics Player," can turn these motors into a stereo speaker capable of playing music both wired and wirelessly.

For context, the Steam Controller doesn't have a speaker; there are two linear actuators under each trackpad that vibrate to provide haptic feedback. Previous projects have leveraged these components to make the controller vibrate in a certain way. Since vibrations are the basis of sound, Valve itself built a secret easter egg into the controller that randomly makes it do a Wilhelm scream when dropped from certain heights.

Pixel 1011 discovered that the haptic motors inside can be targeted with low-level HID (Human Interface Device) feature reports using HIDAPI. As such, Steam Haptics Player takes an audio file, downsamples it through FFmpeg, splits it into chunks of a PCM stream, and sends those packets directly to the controller, bypassing high-level software like Steam Input. The controller's firmware then feeds this raw data to the motors, at which point they vibrate to produce sound.

Because of the DIY nature of this process, bandwidth is an issue, especially wirelessly, since the puck isn't designed to carry audio data over its radio signal. This means the audio has to be compressed, and there's a limit to the overall quality the motors can transmit — 8-bit 8kHz (μ-law) over the puck and 16-bit 8kHz PCM over a wire.

Still, the 16-bit audio is enough to produce a surprisingly loud and balanced result that can deceive you as if it's coming from a speaker. The video at the start features Pixel1011 playing the song "Want You Gone" from the end credits of Portal 2, and you can hear the quality for yourself. There's a genuine low-end that you would never expect from a jerry-rigged setup like this, even if it's sitting on top of a towel on a flat surface to give it its best chance.

The wireless audio quality is rough in comparison; it crackles and pops and even cuts off in between because of the bandwidth limitations. Pixel1011 is using 8-bit 8khz here. Even through this compression, the puck is struggling, but the fact that this is even possible is still very impressive, and perhaps there's room for improvement down the line.

You can try Steam Haptics Player yourself on your own second-gen Steam Controller with pretty much any audio file in any format. Just download the archive from the GitHub repo, install FFmpeg (for transcoding, if you don't have it already), and run the program via a PowerShell window in the original directory. Detailed steps are on the linked GitHub page, but we don't know how this affects the controller's battery life. Just don't go all out with your Spotify playlist on these haptic motors.

These days, the best gaming headsets tend to share a lot of qualities. They all sound great, have decent microphones, and are comfortable enough for full day gaming sessions. And, once you pass a certain price point, almost all of them are wireless. For years, that meant keeping track of battery statuses and remembering to charge or be faced with plugging in or logging out to recharge.

The Glorious GHS Wireless InfinitePlay changes all that with its hot-swappable battery system. Unlike other headsets with hot-swappable batteries, like the Steelseries Arctis Nova Pro Wireless and the Turtle Beach Stealth Pro II, the Wireless InfinitePlay also has a built-in battery to keep the sound pumping and comms connected while swapping batteries. It sounds great and is plenty comfortable, but does it earn its $230 asking price? I think it does — and, compared to its competition, it almost feels like a bargain.

Glorious GHS Wireless InfinitePlay Specs

Design and Comfort of the Glorious GHS Wireless InfinitePlay

The Glorious Wireless InfinitePlay is the epitome of stealth. There's no RGB and the only-colored accent is at the edges of its elastic headband. It's only when you look closely that you'll see the Glorious logo in subtle gray on the right ear cup or the headband accents or the flashes of the brand’s iconic orange inside each ear cup.

Apart from those subtle accents, the headset's blacked out appearance makes it a good fit for use on the go. I wouldn’t give a second thought to wearing these out of the house if the need arose. And you may want to, because even though its asking price ($230) is lower than some of the competition, these are still pricey enough that you may want to wear them for more than just gaming — and they live up to that.

Glorious has put a lot of effort into ensuring that the Wireless InfinitePlay is exceptionally comfortable. The headset uses an elastic headstrap that runs beneath its plastic headband. Using plastic allows for a relatively lightweight design, and the elastic helps distribute what weight there is. In the two weeks I had the headset in for testing, I didn’t experience any head pain, which is something I’m particularly susceptible to.

The ear cushions are made of a soft, pliable foam that’s accommodating to glasses while still offering a good seal around each ear. They’re trimmed in fabric and are very breathable, but be warned: plenty of sound makes its way in and out of these headphones, so don’t listen to anything at high volume you wouldn’t want your roommate to hear. There’s also no ANC, which could be a deal-breaker when other flagship headsets include it.

The grip force is strong enough to create a seal, but the headset has a bad case of floppy earcups that work against that. Each earcup rotates to lay flat around your neck — usually a plus — but the yokes (hinges) holding them just aren’t strong enough to keep them from turning on their own. This doesn’t make a big difference for normal listening, but between the floppy cups, reliance on plastic, and the light weight, this doesn't feel like a $230 headset when you’re picking it up and putting it down.

The headset sports dual-mode connectivity with support for 2.4 GHz wireless and Bluetooth 5.X and can swap between them on the fly with a press behind the right earcup. Changing sources is fast and reliable, but I still wish they were simultaneous and could play at the same time.

The headset’s hallmark feature, however, is its hot-swappable battery system. Like the Turtle Beach Stealth Pro II and the Steelseries Arctis Nova Pro Wireless, the InfinitePlay comes with two batteries and a base station that connects to your source and recharges your second battery. When it’s time to switch, you simply eject the battery from its spring-loaded slot on the bottom of the right cup and slide the new one into place. If you don’t need the battery system, or don’t want the base station connected to your PC all the time, you can unplug a USB Type-C dongle from the back of the dock and use it standalone for a lower profile experience.

Where the Glorious Wireless InfinitePlay truly becomes unique, however, is that it supplements its two removable batteries with a three-hour built-in back-up that can’t be removed. While every other headset as of this writing (correct me in the comments if I’m missing anything) disconnects briefly when changing batteries, the second you remove swappable battery from the earcup, the standby kicks in so you never lose connection. It’s surprisingly high capacity, too, lasting around three hours before finally requiring you to put the second battery in.

This is a genuinely useful feature and one that I expect will become standard among the “swappable battery” headsets. It’s just so convenient in comparison and truly makes this headset feel “infinite” in a way its competitors don’t.

That isn’t to say the Wireless InfinitePlay should instantly be your go-to pick in this category. Its knobs are functional when worn and annoying when not. Each ear cup features a tall knob. The left controls Game/Chat balance and the right controls volume. Neither is labeled, so there’s a good chance you’ll accidentally turn the wrong knob and then wonder why your volume is so low (because the knob is tilted more toward Chat). There’s also a microphone mute switch just below on the left and a power button on the right.

The problem is that in the pursuit of making these knobs easy to manipulate by making them tall, Glorious also made them super easy to hit by mistake when it’s hanging around your neck. Earcups up? You’ll hit them with your shoulder. Earcups down? You’ll need to watch your head and chin. Neither of these are deal breakers, but it’s a strange problem to have when it’s so apparent in actual use.

Audio Performance of the Glorious GHS Wireless InfinitePlay

To drive with sonics, the InfinitePlay uses a pair of custom-tuned 40mm dynamic drivers. In the gaming headset space, this is a common configuration, but Glorious sets it apart in several ways. The first is that the drivers are angled within each ear cup. This is a technique found on many high-end audiophile headphones with the aim of increasing the realism and spatial details of what you’re listening to. The angle is intended to mimic how sounds enter your ear in real life: typically off-axis and guided by the Pinna. The impact is real but not profound, though it translates to some pretty great competitive acoustics when paired with Windows Sonic and Dolby Atmos.

Before getting to the second way that the InfinitePlay differentiates itself, it's important to remember that gaming headsets have a reputation for being boomy and overemphasizing bass while the mids and highs get muddy and overwhelmed. The wireless InfinitePlay is much more well-rounded out of the box. The bass is emphasized, but the tuning Glorious settled on raises the mids and highs to keep key details intact. To my ear, it strikes just about the perfect balance between engaging, fun bass and high-resolution, realistic, and positionally detailed sound.

But sound preference is almost as varied as gamers themselves. Within the Glorious Core software, you're able to choose from several different preset EQs or customize your own using an accessible 5-band equalizer. During my review phase, Glorious also debuted, albeit in beta, its new parametric equalizer system. If you're comfortable with its relatively steep learning curve, it allows you to change the sound to match your exact preference.

The parametric equalizer is such an important feature that it fundamentally changes how you should consider this headset and any reviews of it. Think of a standard equalizer as a hairbrush: You can make some changes and change your look — but the changes are surface level. A parametric EQ is like going to a barber and being able to completely reinvent your look from scratch. Any claims about the headset's sound that aren’t related to its resolution or technicalities, need a big ol’ asterisk: *unless your change it*

With that in mind, the technicalities of the headset are certainly above average and fit its premium price point. The headset features a 20 Hz to 20 kHz frequency response range, which makes it capable of reproducing the full range of human hearing. Within this range, Glorious has also built in protections so that as you play with different EQ settings, you'll never need to worry about accidentally pushing the headset beyond its limits. This is a major pitfall within the audiophile space, as it's easy to introduce distortion if you're not careful. Here, that's simply not possible, as it handles all of your gain adjustments automatically.

Layer separation isn't amazing, but it is what I would consider above average. I didn't have any trouble picking out audio cues like footsteps of enemies in the next room in Battlefield 6 or little bits of occluded dialogue working through crowds in 007: First Light. Audio cues don't have the same expansive sense of space that you'll find with large-format planar magnetic drivers, but it sounds good and is up to the challenge of competitive gaming and deep listening.

The angled drivers provide a subtle improvement, but as I mentioned above, the bigger upgrade will come from turning on Dolby Atmos. If you’re not a fan of algorithmic surround, the native soundstage is mid-sized with more horizontal space than depth. It plays nice with built-in surround sound effects within games, so you have several options to choose from if you want to push a decent soundstage to good or great territory. For music and movies, the default tuning works very well. Everything from Coheed and Cambria to Zach Bryan had a fullness that was free of any of the haze or muddiness from the registers stepping on each other.

In comparison to its biggest competitors, the Steelseries Arctis Nova Pro Wireless and the Turtle Beach Stealth Pro II, the InfinitePlay has more bass than the Arctis Nova Pro though isn’t quite as detailed across the board. Compared against the Stealth Pro II, the sound quality is much more apples to apples, but the parametric EQ puts it over the top for customization potential.

Taken as a whole, I think most people would be very pleased with the sound of the Glorious GHS InfinitePlay without touching a thing. But the room to play is a big asset if you are also an audio enthusiast that likes to dial in their gear.

Microphone of the Glorious GHS Wireless InfinitePlay

The Glorious GHS Wireless InfinitePlay comes with two microphones: a detachable boom mic, which plugs into the left ear cup and an embedded mic for taking calls on the go or whenever you don’t want the better mic plugged in.

While functional, the embedded microphone is worth avoiding if at all possible. It works for taking calls, but like most embedded mics, it’s muffled from being built into the earcup and too far from your mouth to sound truly clear.

The detachable boom microphone is much higher quality. Since it’s built on a gooseneck, you can adjust it and reposition it in front of your mouth. There was no pop filter included with my sample, but I didn't find the mic to need one when positioned correctly. I don’t think I would use it anyway, though, because there’s alright a slight muffled quality to vocals. It’s not bad and doesn’t have the same nasally, compressed sound that headsets like the Steelseries Arctis 7/9/etc., but it’s noticeable and prevents the headset from truly replacing desktop mic solutions you might already be using.

There aren’t many options for customizing the microphone, but there are a couple. You can adjust its gain from low to high, enable and adjust sidetone, and turn environmental noise canceling on or off. While ENC does make a difference for removing ambient background noise, disabling it didn't improve the actual quality of the audio that was captured, so I'd recommend leaving it on.

In comparison to the rest of the headset, the microphone is fine but not exceptional. For talking with friends and non-broadcast use, however, it works well.

Software and Features of the Glorious GHS Wireless InfinitePlay

I’ve been following Glorious since its founding, and while its products have usually landed in Good to Great territory, it’s a small company and its size is reflected in its Glorious Core software. Glorious has done a decent job of developing its capabilities and polish over time. It could still be made simpler for ease of use.

With that in mind, the version of Glorious Core accompanying this headset checks most boxes in features and capabilities, though it lacks competing features, like microphone EQ adjustment and vocal FX. You can adjust the EQ, sidetone, mic gain, and noise cancellation. It also lets you check battery status, Bluetooth state, and adjust how fast the headset falls asleep to save battery.

The biggest issue currently is that accessing and using the equalization features isn't as straightforward as it could be. For example, there is simply no option to access the parametric EQ. Instead, you first have to go to Custom EQ and click the Edit button, and then click to add a node. It's just not straightforward, and a handful of tools explaining its different functions would make a big difference for EQ newcomers.

Overall, Glorious Core continues its path of iterative development. If you're not a fan of software, though, Glorious still has you. You can change your settings directly to the headset across its five onboard profiles so you can take your settings with you between PCs and platforms.

Battery Life of the Glorious GHS Wireless InfinitePlay

Glorious GHS Wireless InfinitePlay is true to its name. With this headset, you don't ever have to worry about running out of battery life again. You can literally run the battery dry and then spend another few hours gaming before needing to do anything about it. With the pun fully intended, it's glorious.

Glorious rates each battery for up to 85 hours of listening time. It took a few cycles for the batteries to reach their full capacity, but I found this to be relatively accurate depending on what I was listening to, how consistently,and how long. With the battery system, it is very much a non-issue however. By swapping the battery once a week, I didn’t have to worry about battery life at all. It didn’t even get low enough to warn me about replacing it — I just changed them when the thought occurred to me and it worked perfectly.

Bottom Line

At $230, the Glorious GHS Wireless InfinitePlay finds itself rubbing shoulders with some of the best gaming headsets available today. It offers great sound and a fantastic hot-swappable battery system that eradicates low-battery anxiety, and its lower price point definitely lends it a lot of appeal in savings alone.

But the layout of its knobs and lack of ANC are shortcomings that you'll want to consider. If you're a streamer, the Turtle Beach Stealth Pro 2 is a killer pick to achieve stream-worthy vocals while still enjoying a high resolution sound. If money is no object and you demand ANC and mic options in a comfy, long-wearing design, check out the Steelseries Arctis Nova Pro Wireless.

Taken on its own, the GHS Wireless InfinitePlay is easily the best headset Glorious has released yet. It is outstanding with its infinite battery life system. It also comes in a bit cheaper than its competitors, which makes some of its trade-offs easier to accept. If you want great sound quality in a wireless headset with as close to wireless freedom as is possible today, it's definitely worth a look.

Legendary video game designer Hideo Kojima, through his studio Kojima Productions, is collaborating with Japanese audio company km5 on a wireless CD player themed after the BB Pod from Death Stranding 2. The "Instant Disc Audio Cp1 DEATH STRANDING 2 Model," as it's called, doesn't have a speaker, is priced at 25,300 Yen (roughly $160), and is available through both in-person and online stores.

The limited-time device is a reskin of km5's existing CP1 CD player, but upgrades the Bluetooth 5.0 on that model to Bluetooth 5.3 on this. You get a vibrant translucent orange design that proudly displays the spinning CD for whatever you're playing. There's a slot behind the front lid where you can also put a lyric sheet or one of the two exclusive Death Stranding 2 postcards that are included in the box.

The back is opaque and features screw holes to mount or hang the player on a wall, so it acts as a standalone decorative piece even when there's no music playing. There's a 1,800mAh battery inside that's supposed to last 7-8 hours on a single charge, after which it can be juiced up through the USB-C port on the side. The front lip of the player has buttons for all basic controls, plus even a headphone jack for wired play.

The player as a whole is supposed to resemble a BB Pod and features caution marks added as accents throughout, and even the packaging is customized to fully express the world of the game. There's an LED grid in the corner that km5 calls an "LED Nixie Tube" — it shows the track number and acts as a playback status indicator. It accepts 12cm and 8cm discs, weighs 300g itself, and measures out to 160mmx140mmx26mm, so it's not exactly pocketable.

The Instant Disc Audio Cp1 DEATH STRANDING 2 Model came out yesterday, on August 1, and can be purchased on km5's online store or you can walk into the Parco Games store in Shibuya Parco, which is a mall in the Shibuya region of Tokyo. Considering it's a limited-edition collector's item, and the fact that the CP1 is already a well-reviewed CD player, this thing will probably sell out fast, but it's in stock as of this writing.

Thunderbolt docks are an easy way to expand the number of available external ports for a laptop and have become quite popular in recent years. They are particularly beneficial with the best ultrabooks, which can sometimes be equipped with as few as just two Thunderbolt ports and no additional external ports for connectivity.

We’ve previously taken a look at some popular Thunderbolt 5 docks, with some costing as much as $650. This time around, we’re looking at some more affordable solutions, with all three of these units carrying a street price of less than $400. The UGREEN Revodok Maxidok has a street price of $389.99 after coupon, while the Plugable TBT-UDH2 and Keychron TB5D-1 are both available for around $350.

Plugable TBT-UDH2

The Plugable TBT-UDH2 is a relatively compact Thunderbolt 5 dock that feels absolutely solid with its weighty aluminum chassis. The BT-UDH2 is designed to stand vertically (confirmed by the rubber feet at the base of the unit). However, there’s no reason why you wouldn’t be able to lay the unit on its side if you wanted to.

As for actual ports, the TBT-UDH2 has two USB-C ports up front (one of which supports 30W PD), a single USB-A port, microSD and SD card slots, a 3.5 mm headphone jack, and a single downstream Thunderbolt 5 port (30W PD).

Moving to the rear of the unit, there are two more USB-A ports, three additional USB-C ports, two HDMI 2.1 ports, a 2.5 GbE port, and a Thunderbolt 5 upstream port for your laptop. And here lies my main complaint with the TBT-UDH2: it only has one downstream Thunderbolt 5 port, and it’s on the front. I would have liked to have seen at least two, with one on the front and one on the back. At this price point, having just one downstream Thunderbolt 5 port seems like a big miss.

Keychron TB5D-1

The Keychron TB5D-1 is the other $350 Thunderbolt 5 dock assembled here today. It is similar in size to the Plugable dock, but is finished in natural aluminum. Keychron includes rubber feet on the bottom and one side of the dock, encouraging you to operate in either a vertical or horizontal orientation.

You’ll find two USB-A and one USB-C port on the front, along with microSD/SD slots and a 3.5 mm headphone jack. Moving to the back, you’ll find two additional USB-A ports, two HDMI 2.1 ports, two downstream Thunderbolt 5 ports, and a Thunderbolt 5 upstream port for the host PC. For networking, there’s also a 2.5 GbE port.

UGREEN Revodok Maxidok

The UGREEN Revodok Maxidok is the most expensive Thunderbolt 5 dock here, with a street price of around $390. However, you do get some added functionality for the $40 price difference. At first glance, the Revodok Maxidok looks like a Mini PC with its square-ish form factor. The aluminum body is finished in a combination of dark grey (upper half) and copper (bottom half).

Unlike the other two docks, the Revodok Maxidok has an internal cooling fan mounted inside to help keep the electronics cool (Thunderbolt docks are notorious for their heat output). During normal operation, I couldn’t hear the fan running. I could only just barely hear it if I stuck my ear to the side of the docking station (which is, of course, not a typical usage scenario).

The front of the docking station houses microSD/SD slots, three USB-C ports (two of which support a total of 60W PD), and a 3.5 mm headphone jack. On the back, you'll find three USB-A ports, two more 3.5 mm audio ports, a DisplayPort 2.1 connector, two Thunderbolt 5 downstream ports, and one Thunderbolt 5 upstream port.

The Revodok Maxidok also has one hidden feature. If you flip the dock over, it has a cover that's held in with one screw. Remove the screw, and you'll find an M.2 slot for adding an internal SSD (up to 8TB in capacity).

Thunderbolt 5 Dock Specs Comparison

Thunderbolt 5 Dock SSD Performance Testing

We tested SSD performance of the three docks using a 1TB Micron 2500 Series PCIe 4.0 SSD (MTFDKBA1T0QGN-1BN1AABYY). The SSD is rated for sequential read speeds up to 7,100 MBps and sequential writes up to 5,800 MBps.

For baseline performance numbers, I tested the Micron 2500 using the onboard PCIe 5.0 M.2 slot on an Asus Z890 Creator WiFi motherboard. For testing with the Keychron TB5D-1 and the Plugable TBT-UDH2, I used an Orico Thunderbolt80G enclosure with the Micron 2500 – it supports up to M.2 (PCIe Gen4x4) SSDs. The enclosure was plugged into one of the Z890 Creator WiFi’s two Thunderbolt 5 ports. For the UGREEN Revodok Maxidok, I used the native M.2 PCIe 4.0 slot with the Micron 2400.

Using the Micron 2500 SSD and Asus Z890 Creator WiFi motherboard as a baseline, we saw 6,674.53 MBps reads and 5,628.61 MBps writes. Of the three docks we tested with the Micron 2500, the Revodok Maxidok was the fastest with its native M.2 PCIe 4.0 slot. It achieved 5,780.54 MBps reads, roughly 300 MBps ahead of the other two.

The Keychron TB5D-1 and the Plugable TBT-UDH2 put up nearly identical numbers using the Orico Thunderbolt80G enclosure, with around 5,400 MBps reads and 4,200 MBps writes.

All three docks had no trouble maxing out the 2.5 GbE port using iPerf3, and I didn't run into any compatibility problems running my 49-inch 240 Hz DQHD monitor using the docks via HDMI or DisplayPort connections.

While all of the docks were warm to the touch, the Revodok Maxidok was noticeably cooler thanks to its internal cooling fan.

Bottom Line

Of the three docks that we tested, the one that I felt was the most versatile and worthy of a place on my desk is the UGREEN Revodok Maxidok. It’s the only one of the docks with a native DisplayPort 2.1 connector and the only one with an internal M.2 SSD slot. In addition, it offered ever so slightly faster storage performance than using an SSD with a Thunderbolt 5 enclosure. And with a street price of $390, you’re only paying a $40 premium over the other two docks.

If you prefer having two additional HDMI 2.1 ports at your disposal, the Keychron TB5D-1 is a good option as well. All of the Keychron’s USB-A and USB-C ports are 10 Gbps, while the Plugable TBT-UDH2 gives you a mix of 10 Gbps and 5 Gbps USB ports. In addition, the Keychron dock features two downstream Thunderbolt 5 ports, while the Plugable only has one.

Additional Thunderbolt 5 Docks to Consider

Although we plan to keep this guide updated as we test additional Thunderbolt 5 docks, here are some additional units to consider:

• UGREEN Thunderbolt 5 Dock – $274.99
• Ivanky FusionDock Max 2 – $379.99
• Anker Prime Thunderbolt 5 Dock – $319.99
• Kensington SD50000T5 Thunderbolt 5 Dock – $194.99
• CalDigit E5 Thunderbolt 5 Dock – $249.99

Keychron, which is known for its mechanical keyboards, just launched a wireless trackball mouse designed to comfortably sit underneath your space bar, complete with six programmable buttons. The Nape Pro wireless trackball mouse is now available on Amazon for $89.99. Although it may look pricey, with comparable ergonomic trackball mice often priced significantly lower, its unique rectangular design makes it the perfect companion for programmers, writers, and those who primarily use the keyboard for productivity. The placement means you don’t have to lift your hands from the keyboard to move the cursor, although it will get in the way if you prefer using a wrist rest.

• Get the Keychron Nape Pro wireless trackball mouse on Amazon.

The keyboard maker revealed the quirky trackball mouse earlier this year at CES, and it’s finally available for those who are interested. It’s wireless, sports six customizable buttons and a control dial, so you can also use it as a macro pad that you can place to the left or right of your keyboard or drawing tablet (or even center, if you have a split keyboard) and pair it with one of the best gaming mice for regular use. But what makes the Nape Pro more useful and powerful is the customizability that Keychron offers. You can change the functions of each button and the dial on the trackball mouse to exactly match what you need. It also has up to seven layers, so you can change what each button does based on what you need.

There are other trackball mice available on the market, like the Elecom Huge Plus with its 52mm ball and 10 programmable buttons (by comparison, the Nape Pro only has a 25mm ball), but they’re mostly designed to replace your mouse with their ergonomic designs. The Keychron trackball, on the other hand, feels like it’s there to complement your current ergonomic mouse and not replace it entirely.

This trackball mouse is another unique product from Keychron, which is known for making one of the best wireless and best budget mechanical keyboards. The keyboard company also makes different types of mice for basic use, productivity, and gaming, but it seems that it hasn’t hit the home run yet on these models. Perhaps the Nape Pro, which is like a hybrid macro pad and trackball mouse, would help elevate its mice to the same level as some of its mechanical keyboards, like the Keychron K3 Ultra.

Have you ever felt like you need more keys and/or mouse buttons, despite rocking a full-size keyboard and a mouse with way too many buttons?

Don't worry, you're not alone. I constantly find myself running out of shortcut keys, especially when I'm working across multiple programs. Sure, most gaming peripheral softwares these days have an option that lets you program different inputs for different apps, but this requires said software to be open, running, and working as intended when you switch between apps. And as someone who has a lot of experience with gaming peripheral software, I can confidently tell you that this is an extremely tall ask — better to just buy a bunch more buttons.

Enter: the standalone macro pad. An extra set of programmable keys/buttons/knobs /dials/other inputs that you can use alongside your keyboard and mouse. I'm talking about everything from the ultra-basic plug-in 10-key numberpad to a Stream Deck you can control with your feet. They're incredibly useful for streamlining your workflow... if you make use of them.

That's the thing about macro pads — like 19-button mice and dedicated macro keys on keyboards, they require some forethought and setup if you're going to incorporate them into your life. These days, they typically come with a specific purpose in mind — 10-key numberpads, for example, are designed for people who do a lot of data entry, while streaming decks like Elgato's Stream Decks are designed for streamers who need to perform a series of tasks while they're in the middle of playing games and interacting with viewers. But you don't need to be an accountant or a streamer to incorporate a macro pad into your life; you just need to be a little creative.

But first, let's take a look at the options:

▶️ The 10-key numberpad

A 10-key numberpad is technically only a macro pad in the sense that many games and apps let you program shortcuts within them, and numberpad numbers count as separate inputs from alphanumeric numbers. You can pick up a standalone 10-key numberpad for pretty cheap — here's a wireless one for $10 — though, of course, that won't get you much in terms of customizability or typing experience. For a little more, you'll find numberpads that are similar to our favorite mechanical keyboards, with hot-swappable PCBs, mechanical switches, gasket mounting, and customizability, such as this one from $36 Epomaker EK21 numberpad or this $34 8BitDo 18-key numpad.

We also recently took a look at the Turtle Beach KP7, which is technically a numberpad. However, this also has extra keys and a programmable knob, which takes it into "gaming pad" territory — see Razer's Tartarus line. As for when you actually need a 10-key numberpad and not just 10 keys that are not a numberpad, there are a few specific scenarios: data entry (anyone who performs data entry knows this is significantly faster), certain applications (3D modeling programs, such as Blender, often have a lot of numberpad shortcuts), and alt codes for quickly entering special characters (although perhaps my editors would prefer I not be able to quickly enter Alt + 0151). Outside of these scenarios, however, you probably don't need a numberpad, specifically. And while you can remap numberpads, or even assign macros using programs such as AutoHotKey, you can also just get a non-numberpad macro pad.

▶️ The non-numberpad keyboard

Customizable non-numberpad macro pads come in all shapes and sizes, from mini three-key pads to larger ones with knobs and dials, such as this DIY Raspberry Pi-powered pad we looked at a few years ago. (I will point out that something like The Shrimp keyboard we reviewed a couple of years ago is not a macro pad, as it replicates existing keys and can't be used in addition to a regular keyboard.) These types of macro pads only get so big, however, because there's a limit to how many random, unorganized keys you can have and keep track of. That's why larger macro pads tend to be streaming decks with LCD keys (and various other inputs).

▶️ The streaming deck

Streaming decks — which include, but are not limited to, Elgato's products with the same name — are customizable macro pads with LCD keys, or several buttons placed over a single LCD screen. The keys are dynamic, with images that update to reflect what they're currently assigned to do, and can also be set to display information such as time, date, weather, PC stats, etc.

Streaming decks are also (usually) supported by more robust, dedicated software that allows for more advanced tasks than typical macros. You can, for example, set up chains of complex events, such as opening several programs in a specific order, or changing a series of settings. They're also often designed to work with existing apps and programs, so they can be a little easier to incorporate if you happen to be using said apps/programs.

Streaming decks also often feature other types of inputs, such as touchscreens, rollers, knobs, dials, and sliders. Some are even modular, like Cooler Master's MasterHUB, which lets you swap sliders for knobs and dials. Of course, the type of input you need will depend on what you're doing — a knob or a dial is great for things like changing brush sizes in image editing apps, scrubbing through video in a video editor, or adjusting settings like volume or brightness. Sliders are good for adjusting multiple things — such as microphone volumes, in a podcast — quickly and simultaneously. Touchscreens aren't my ideal input in most situations, but they can be useful for swiping through "folders" of buttons on a streaming deck (especially since it means you don't have to "waste" a button on being able to move between screens).

It's not hard to see why streaming decks are aimed at streamers, podcasters, and other content creators who are trying to do multiple things on their PCs at once while also trying to be present and interact with their audience. Or why certain programs, such as photo/video/audio editing software and 3D modeling software, benefit from having extra keys. But you don't have to be creating media in real time or in a shortcut-heavy program to find ways to use your macro pad. Here are some of the ways I use my macro pad(s):

Basic (short) shortcuts

Shortcuts only exist because we have a limited number of keys. It's not better to use a shortcut and press two or three keys when you could just press one key (plus, it's not particularly ergonomic to stretch your hands across the keyboard all the time). Any shortcut you use frequently should be programmed into a macro key. Some of the ones I use are:

• Moving between tabs - (Shift + Ctrl + Tab / Ctrl + Tab) I program this to a knob so I can just skip through my tabs.
• Close current tab - (Ctrl + F4)
• Open last closed tab - (Shift + Ctrl + T)
• Move current tab right / left - (Shift + Ctrl + PgDn / Shift + Ctrl + PgUp)
• Select address bar - (Ctrl + L)
• Zoom - (Ctrl + - / Ctrl + +) I also program this to a knob.
• Switch apps - (Alt + Tab)
• Select all - (Ctrl + A)
• Copy / Paste - (Ctrl + C / Ctrl + V)
• Find - (Ctrl + F)
• Left click - sometimes I need to click something without moving my mouse.

Opening specific websites / programs / folders

The nice thing about a streaming deck setup is that I can group things together — I can put the apps I commonly use at the same time on one "page," so everything is right there when I want to use it. I can also program a series of tasks to one button, so I can have multiple applications open at once if I always use them together.

Changing obnoxious Windows settings

This might be more of a "Tom's Hardware peripherals editor" thing, but I constantly find myself switching between various devices — audio devices, webcams, etc.

Entering text strings

There admittedly aren't a ton of text strings I use so frequently that I find typing them inefficient, but there are some — for example, hashtags on social media (on the rare occasion I use social media), or 'site:tomshardware.com ' for when I need to find an article on our site.

Extra function keys

If I'm using a keyboard that doesn't have a function row or doesn't have enough of a function row, I often just use my macro pad as the function row. This is useful in apps and games that already have function row shortcuts built in, or that have single-key programmable shortcuts.

Organizing my desktop

I have four monitors, so it's easy to lose things all over my desktop. I can use plugins to automatically snap windows to certain positions or automatically organize all windows on one screen into a predetermined layout.

I do some photo and video editing, as well as some 3D modeling, but not enough that I can really justify setting up a macro pad just for that. But I'm sure everyone reading this uses at least several basic shortcuts that could definitely be programmed to a macro pad — and that doing so will make more of a difference than you think.

You don't need a professional streaming setup to take work video calls and chat with friends and family — and, honestly, you don't want one. And webcams have a lot of limitations (most professional streamers use DSLRs to shoot content, not webcams), so there's only so much you can do. But it's not nothing.

Here are several things the average person can do to make their webcam streams look better.

Webcam

First of all, let me point out that the webcams on our list of best webcams are, for the most part, not 4K webcams. That's because you don't need a fancy, expensive 4K webcam to look good — and, in fact, a 4K webcam might end up working against you. Most video conferencing platforms, including Google Meet, Microsoft Teams, and Zoom, limit your outgoing stream to 1080p or 720p, depending on the type of account you have. So you basically can't stream in 4K even if you want to (and you probably don't want to). Plus, higher-resolution webcams often require more power and bandwidth, which can result in freezing, lagging, and choppiness (none of which are flattering) if your PC or your internet connection isn't up to speed.

Instead of looking for a high-res webcam, look for one with a relatively narrow field of view and/or digital zoom (which narrows the field of view). One of the reasons we love the Logitech Brio 500 is that it has the option for narrowing the field of view to 65 degrees, and a narrower field of view is more flattering to your face. Wide-angle lenses tend to distort the picture subtly, warping objects at the edges and making whatever's in the center look larger than it is.

Larger sensors and lenses can also help, but what you'll find is pretty limited in the webcam market (they are, after all, webcams) — so instead of worrying too much about the hardware, look for a webcam with robust software support. I'm a big fan of Elgato's Camera Hub (which supports Elgato webcams, such as the Elgato Facecam MK.2 and the Elgato Facecam Neo), which gives you a lot of control over exposure, white balance, and picture adjustments, and also lets you zoom in and save presets so you can quickly switch between angles while you're streaming.

Needless to say, part of the reason you're looking for a webcam with good software is that you should be changing the settings in the software — webcam auto-exposure and auto-white balancing are notoriously terrible and should almost always be manually adjusted. But if you're the type of person who can't be bothered to go in and tweak software settings, you should pick up a webcam with decent auto-exposure and auto-white balancing — the Logitech MX Brio has excellent auto settings (though, at $200, you are paying for them).

Lighting

Lights shining down on you from above, such as those found in a typical office setup or, I don't know, in your kitchen, are designed to help you work more efficiently. They're not designed to flatter your face. In fact, this is probably some of the least flattering lighting around, thanks to the harsh shadows it creates. That said, you generally won't find a "naturally occurring" ideal webcam lighting setup, because most people do not place bright lights behind their already-bright, backlit monitors. But lighting is one of the most important elements when it comes to looking good on webcam, and it definitely makes a difference.

While there are some webcams that handle poor lighting situations slightly better than others, the difference is pretty minor. So instead of looking for a webcam that performs like a beast in the dark, just grab some lights.

You don't need to go overboard with a full studio setup, but basic three-point lighting is a classic for a reason. This consists of two lights on either side of you (at 45-degree angles) and one light behind you. At the very least, you should try to have two lights on either side of your face, and some sort of lighting (even overhead lighting) in the background so it doesn't look like you're sitting around in the dark. You can, of course, buy lights specifically for your webcam streaming setup — Elgato's Key Light is slim and comes with a desktop clamp mount designed to fit sleekly into your setup, while the brand's cheaper Key Light Neo features a monitor mount. Logitech sells the Litra Beam LX, which is dual-sided (colorful on one side, white on the other), as well as a monitor-mounted option, the Litra Glow.

But you don't need a fancy, wirelessly-controlled webcam-specific streaming light — you can use a lamp, or even the sun. You just need two light sources, of which one is (ideally) dimmable. If you happen to have a multi-monitor setup, you can even use your monitor (or monitors, depending on how many you have). I use this whitescreen website to switch two of my monitors into lights when I'm taking pictures for webcam reviews. Just make sure the lights are off to the side of your face — straight-on lighting is more flattering than top-down lighting, but it does make your features look a little flat.

When you do have at least two lights in front of you, you'll want to make sure you turn off your webcam's auto-exposure and tune the exposure to work with the lights.

Height

Most webcams come with some sort of monitor mount for convenience. But your monitor — especially the top of your monitor — basically never sits at a height that makes for a flattering camera angle. If you've got a laptop, it's too low (even if it's not on your lap), and if you have a desktop monitor, it's probably too high. The best place for your webcam to be is at eye-level — not only does this give the most flattering, accurate view of your face, it also makes it easier for you to look into the camera (and making eye contact with the camera, not your screen, goes a long way in making you look good — or at least like you're paying attention).

There are a few ways to get your webcam to eye-level height:

✔️ Get a separate camera mount

You don't have to mount your webcam on your monitor! Most webcams either have tripod attachment points built in or come with a monitor mount that has a tripod attachment point built in. This lets you mount your webcam on any standard camera mount, such as a tripod, a desktop tripod, or some other sort of desktop camera mount. A desktop tripod is probably the easiest way to get your webcam to an acceptable height, although it's perhaps not the most elegant, as you'll have to move it around when you're not using it. For a more permanent solution, I recommend a desktop clamp mount if you have somewhere to mount it — just make sure that the one you buy has enough adjustment options to get your webcam to where you want it to be.

✔️ Lift your laptop

If you're on a laptop and you happen to be using the built-in webcam, you can't exactly mount it separately, so you'll need to figure out how to get your laptop to eye-level height. The easiest way to do this is to just put your laptop on something: a box, a stack of books, or, if you're feeling fancy, a laptop mount. You'll also need to make sure that the screen is angled correctly — either straight on (90 degrees) or tilted slightly down.

✔️ Mount your webcam in the middle of your screen

Look, your webcam is probably going to end up in the middle of your screen in an ideal scenario anyway, so why not just... put it there to begin with? There are a couple of ways to do this — you can buy a webcam specifically designed to be mounted this way, such as the Center Cam, or you can get a mount that sits in the middle of your screen, such as the PlexiCam Pro V2, which is a clear, acrylic webcam mount that hangs on your monitor and puts the camera right in the center of your screen.

Background

This might seem obvious, but it's not just about how you look... it's about what people can see in the background. I know that not everyone has the space, resources, or willpower to set up some sort of perfectly curated streamer-ready background, and that's understandable. But there's probably some middle ground between showing off piles of laundry and unsuspecting roommates, and looking like you're ready to launch a Twitch partnership.

✔️ Less is more

If you can't clean up your background before you get on a call, use the power of zoom and crop. Try to make the area directly behind you as neat and camera-ready as possible, and then use your webcam's software to zoom in and crop so that people just can't see what's just outside the frame.

✔️ But not... nothing

While you don't want everyone to see a pile of junk behind you, you also don't want to look like you live in an asylum. And that's what you look like when you just have a blank white wall behind you. If you have to be tucked up against a wall (and, turning your desk around to hide the mess is a completely valid strategy), just... put something on the wall. A picture, a painting, a sign, some of that peel-and-stick wallpaper, anything. It doesn't have to be fancy; it just has to look like you're anywhere that's not an endless void.

✔️ Use a greenscreen

Most video conferencing apps have an option to blur your background and/or replace it. I'll just come right out and say it: Blurring your background looks terrible. Yes, I know everyone does it, and it's generally accepted in workplace video calls, but that doesn't mean it looks good — that just means we're all willing to overlook how bad it looks. And replacing your background rarely works well, unless you're against a blank white wall (in which case you should just throw up some art and go with it). If you really can't make a real background work, consider a pop-up greenscreen for a more seamless background-replacing experience. And if you must blur your background, make sure you at least zoom in and crop so that people focus on you, and not whatever you're mysteriously hiding behind you.

This is not an exhaustive guide to how to look good on a webcam, but it's a start.

The USB ecosystem is in the midst of another transition that will affect how laptops, desktops, storage devices, displays, and peripherals connect in the second half of the decade.

USB4 Version 2.0, Thunderbolt 5, and a refreshed certification program converge around higher throughput, expanded power delivery, and an attempt to simplify a standard that has accumulated layers of optionality over nearly three decades, which we've explained in our USB decoded explainer.

So, what's next? In 2026, USB4 Version 2.0 and Thunderbolt 5 are now actively being implemented in the premium laptop and desktop segments, shifting from the long-running 20 Gbps and 40 Gbps era toward links that can deliver 80 Gbps bidirectional bandwidth and 120 Gbps asymmetric modes for display-heavy workloads.

From 12 Mbps to 80 Gbps

USB began in the mid-1990s to replace a sprawl of legacy connectors — serial, parallel, PS/2 — with a single, self-configuring interface. USB 1.0 launched in 1996 at just 12 Mbps, fast enough for keyboards, mice, and early webcams.

The 2000 release of USB 2.0 raised that to 480 Mbps, enabling external optical drives and the first wave of consumer flash storage. But it was USB 3.0 in 2008 that marked the transition to high-bandwidth, general-purpose peripheral buses, pushing 5 Gbps over a new SuperSpeed signaling layer. USB 3.1 and 3.2 followed, expanding bandwidth to 10 Gbps and then 20 Gbps with dual-lane signaling, but also introducing a tangle of naming conventions that made it difficult for users to identify what a port or cable could actually do.

Throughout this evolution, USB retained backward compatibility by design. A USB 2.0 flash drive could still work when plugged into a USB 3.2 Gen 2x2 port, and a modern USB-C charger could power an old USB 3.0 hard drive. This interoperability helped USB become the default connector for consumer computing. That said, it also left the standard fragmented beneath the surface. Features such as power delivery, alternate modes for video output, and PCIe tunneling were added incrementally, and not all devices implemented them uniformly.

The introduction of USB-C in 2014 began to consolidate physical connectors, and the debut of USB4 in 2019 marked the start of a new architecture focused on integrated high-speed transport. But many of USB4’s promises, such as 40 Gbps throughput and universal power, depended on how thoroughly a given device implemented the spec. That complexity is still being worked through, even as USB4 v2 and Thunderbolt 5 push bandwidth and capability well beyond what USB 3.x ever attempted.

The state of USB4

USB4 has been positioned as the unifying successor to the fragmented USB 3.x family, but the reality of this is more nuanced. USB4 is a modular architecture built atop the Thunderbolt 3 transport specification that Intel contributed to the USB Promoter Group. The standard defines a tunnel capable of carrying DisplayPort, PCI Express, and USB packets simultaneously, distributing bandwidth dynamically across workloads. All USB4 ports use USB-C as the physical connector and require USB Power Delivery for negotiation, but beyond that baseline, implementations vary widely.

Most more budget-conscious laptops and PCs ship with USB4 20 Gbps rather than the full 40 Gbps mode. Many omit PCIe tunneling, which restricts the use of external NVMe enclosures, capture cards that require direct PCIe links, and eGPU housings. Others support only single-lane DisplayPort tunneling, capping multi-monitor configurations even when total bandwidth appears sufficient.

Thunderbolt 4 remains the most complete expression of USB4 Version 1.0, because it mandates 40 Gbps operation, PCIe tunneling with at least 32 Gbps of sustained throughput, dual 4K displays, DMA protection, and 15W of minimum port power. Intel platforms consistently meet this bar. Meanwhile, AMD systems vary by OEM and chipset, with only a subset of designs offering full USB4 40 Gbps with PCIe tunneling.

This implementation variability reflects the flexibility of USB4’s architecture. The specification allows device makers to scale features based on cost and power constraints, especially in thin-and-light systems. For users, however, the USB4 label alone does not guarantee any particular performance characteristic without checking controller documentation or certification badges.

USB-C’s role has grown alongside this transition. The connector now consolidates power, data, and display signaling, and it is the required physical interface for USB4, Thunderbolt 3, Thunderbolt 4, and Thunderbolt 5. With Power Delivery 3.1, USB-C can negotiate up to 240W via 48V Extended Power Range modes across fixed 28V, 36V, and 48V power profiles. A single cable can power a high-end notebook, drive a high-resolution display, and host multiple data devices simultaneously because power negotiation occurs on the separate Configuration Channel, rather than the high-speed lanes.

Enter USB4 Version 2.0 and the shift to 80 Gbps

USB4 Version 2.0 marks the largest technical jump in USB signaling since the transition from USB 2.0 to USB 3.0. Instead of adding more lanes, the new specification doubles throughput by replacing NRZ signaling with PAM3 modulation. PAM3 encodes three amplitude levels per symbol, enabling 40 Gbps per lane across the same physical wires that carried 20 Gbps in previous generations. With two bonded lanes in each direction, USB4 v2 reaches 80 Gbps symmetrical bandwidth. An asymmetric mode increases this to 120 Gbps in one direction for display-oriented workloads, while the reverse direction can be reduced.

The transport layer receives several upgrades. PCIe tunneling now supports PCIe Gen4, which doubles per-lane throughput for external SSDs and eGPU boxes, relative to Gen3 tunneling in USB4 v1. DisplayPort tunneling advances to DisplayPort 2.1 with UHBR20 signaling, enabling dual 8K or a single 12K display with full chroma and high refresh rates. Backward compatibility with USB4 v1, Thunderbolt 3, and Thunderbolt 4 devices is retained, although those devices fall back to older signaling modes when connected.

Many certified passive USB-C cables up to one meter will support 80 Gbps, but anything longer typically requires active retimers. These active cables include embedded signal processing and sometimes operate directionally, which introduces design considerations for things like hubs and monitors. The USB-IF’s new labeling scheme identifies cables explicitly as USB 40 Gbps, USB 80 Gbps, or USB 240W to mitigate the long-standing ambiguity that accompanied earlier USB 3.x naming.

Thunderbolt 5 rides alongside USB4 v2 as its highest-fidelity implementation, with Intel’s specification guaranteeing features that USB4 v2 only defines as optional. These include mandatory 80 Gbps symmetrical operation, 120 Gbps asymmetric display mode, PCIe Gen4 tunneling with at least 32 Gbps of sustained throughput, and support for 240W charging. Thunderbolt 5 also mandates lane symmetry and strict latency targets to support high-bandwidth, low-jitter peripherals such as external GPUs, docked workstations, and multi-display gaming setups. We can see that in higher-end systems in mid-2026, the full-fat Thunderbolt 5 spec is rolling out, with our recently reviewed Razer Blade 16 (2026) coming fully equipped with the port.

Because Thunderbolt 5 builds directly atop the USB4 v2 physical layer, its cables and controllers are interoperable across the USB4 family, but with stricter certification criteria. In practice, Thunderbolt 5 functions as the version of USB4 v2 that guarantees complete feature exposure, similar to how Thunderbolt 4 served as the reference point for the USB4 v1 era.

The next decade of universal connectivity

There has been some discussion among users and industry analysts about what the future of USB might look like. A likely future USB5 standard might see schemes beyond PAM3, if USB-C’s electrical characteristics prove capable of sustaining higher speeds. PAM4 could be a candidate here. Meanwhile, copper links are approaching practical limits at these data rates, prompting the active commercialization of optical USB-C cables that embed fiber transceivers inside standard connectors. While expensive today, optical links could carry future USB4 v3 or USB5 signaling across tens of meters, without electromagnetic interference or the attenuation challenges of copper.

Power delivery beyond 240W is another open question. The 48V EPR ceiling aligns well with current mobile workstations and most gaming laptops, but heavier categories such as portable displays, desk-dock hybrids, and workstation replacements may increase pressure for higher wattage tiers. Whether USB-C remains the long-term vehicle for that expansion or yields to a successor connector will depend on thermal constraints and cable reliability at elevated voltages.

The USB-IF’s renewed emphasis on clear labeling may ultimately define how smoothly the transition unfolds. The shift from version-based branding to explicit “USB 40 Gbps,” “USB 80 Gbps,” and “240W Certified Cable” identifiers is intended to eliminate the ambiguity that has characterized the standard for nearly a decade. Adoption will, of course, depend on consistent enforcement by manufacturers and retailers.

USB has moved far beyond its origins as a peripheral interconnect. The convergence of USB4 v2, Thunderbolt 5, and expanded Power Delivery turns the USB-C port into a high-bandwidth, multi-protocol backplane for modern systems.

A single connector can now supply workstation-class PCIe bandwidth, high-resolution video, and sustained charging for devices that previously required dedicated power bricks. The next steps in the roadmap take USB into signaling regimes that challenge copper’s limits while retaining full backward compatibility with the ecosystem that grew around USB 2.0 and USB 3.x.

As the 80Gbps era proliferates, users will encounter hardware that behaves less like a simple peripheral port and more like an external extension of a system’s internal fabric. As we move through the second half of the decade, OEMs are now starting to standardize full-feature implementations rather than the partial configurations that marked the early years of USB4.

If that consolidation takes place, the connector that started as a replacement for serial and parallel ports will continue its evolution into one of the most capable physical interfaces in computing.

‘The Jensen Jacket: Jensen Huang's Tom Ford Leather Jacket’ achieved a hammer price of $960,000 this weekend. High-end auctioneer Sotheby’s listed the leather garment, which was claimed to have been worn at least once by the Nvidia CEO, with a far lower price estimate of $40,000 to $60,000. Happily, the bountiful proceeds of the auction are going to charity.

Bidders could be quite confident that this Tom Ford jacket was genuinely worn by Jensen Huang at one or more landmark product launches, thanks to the work of the PSA [Professional Sports Authenticator]. Specifically, PSA photomatched this jacket and its unique leather wrinkles to the Hon Hai (Foxconn) Tech Day in Taipei on October 18, 2023, where Huang wore it on stage and met with other execs. Various close-up photos in the sales catalog showed telltale signs that this was/is the real deal. Separately, a signature on the garment was authenticated by James Spence Authentication.

The near $1M hammer price achieved is many multiples of the estimate. In our earlier reporting on the sale, we guessed this would happen for a number of reasons. Firstly, we thought Sotheby’s ‘low’ estimate was intentional to draw in the crowds and stoke excitement. Secondly, we mustn’t neglect the importance of the not-so-secret ingredient - Jensanity. And, right now, the AI boom with Nvidia at its center is still growing apace.

You can buy a brand new Tom Ford SS2023 menswear collection jacket, like the one shown, without any infusion of genuine Jensanity, for around $9,000. However, we can’t begrudge the success of this auction as the proceeds are earmarked for charity. The Sotheby’s page says that the auction was organized by Long Journey Ventures to benefit the Edge Institute, a non-profit that convenes people working at the frontiers of tech, science, culture, and society in pop-up villages (Edge Cities) to live together and experiment towards a brighter future. Fellowships, grants, and residencies for the next generation of young builders will be funded by this bumper lump of cash.

Over the past several years, I’ve reviewed a growing number of augmented reality (AR) glasses. For the most part, these shades share the same mission: to give consumers a way to enjoy video content and even work on productivity tasks with a Mac or Windows device via a 150-inch (ish) virtual screen.

Most of these glasses top out at a 120 Hz refresh rate and weren’t designed specifically for a gaming audience (though many can be used for gaming). That is changing with the Asus ROG Xreal R1, which is a collaborative effort from two big names in tech. Not only does the R1 boost the maximum refresh rate to 240 Hz to appease hardcore gamers, but it also serves as a breakout box for gaming on your PC, Xbox, PlayStation, or Switch.

The R1 promises and delivers a lot, but it comes at an even higher price than Asus’ AirVision M1, which debuted at $700 two years ago.

Design of the Asus ROG Xreal R1

Although it shares many of the same internals as the Xreal One Series AR glasses, the R1 has an unmistakable ROG flair. Whereas the “One” glasses have smooth surfaces and rounded edges, the R1 has a more angular design and chamfers along the temples. And in keeping with ROG design ethos, there is a line of 9 LEDs along both temples, along with Republic of Gamers etchings.

The glasses are constructed from high-quality plastic, which feels similar to that of the Xreal One and One Pro. But whereas the Xreal glasses have a soft, matte finish, the R1 has a shimmering grey finish. Unlike the One glasses, the R1 doesn’t have a detachable front frame, which probably isn’t too much of a hindrance, as the glasses already have a clean, modern aesthetic when viewed from the front.

The R1 features open-air speakers along the temples, with a USB-C port at the rear of the left temple. The top of the right temple features a programmable Quick button. On the underside of the right temples, you’ll find a menu button and a rocker switch that navigates through the menu system. When the menu is inactive, that same rocker switch adjusts the display brightness.

The R1 uses a flat-prism lens design, resulting in much less visual heft near your eyes than traditional bird bath lenses. This design also results in a 57-degree field of view, which is identical to the One Pro. Content is projected using dual 0.55-inch Sony Micro-OLED displays, featuring a 0.01 ms response time and a 240 Hz refresh rate (double that of competing AR glasses) with Frame Rate Boost enabled. The glasses can also project an image equivalent to up to 171 inches across at a distance of 4 meters.

Three levels of electrochromic dimming are offered on the R1. The darkest setting blocks most, but not all, environmental light to heighten the sense of immersion while gaming or viewing media content. Electrochromic dimming is a must at this price point, since less expensive glasses rely on cheap physical plastic light blockers to achieve the same effect. And the physical light blockers are an all-or-nothing affair, with no granularity in their light-blocking abilities.

One other item of note: The R1 features the same accessory port between the nose pads that accepts the Xreal 6 DoF camera module.

In addition to the R1, the retail box includes a hard carrying case, the USB-C-to-USB-C cable, a prescription lens frame, small and large nose pads, a polishing cloth, and the ROG Control Box.

Specifications for the Asus ROG Xreal R1

Asus Xreal ROG Control Dock and the Asus DisplayWidget Center

Our R1 review unit shipped with the ROG Control Dock. It’s a lightweight accessory designed to connect your R1 glasses to a PC or gaming console. The front of the unit has a single USB-C port for video out to your glasses. The back panel features two HDMI ports and a DisplayPort for video input. There are also two USB-C ports: one for power-in and one for power-in and data.

The dock ships with two USB-C-to-USB-A cables for connecting power and managing data throughput from your PC.

The top of the unit features a power button, an exit button, and a joystick to navigate the glasses' OSD. If you don’t want to install any additional software, you can control all R1 settings (including screen brightness, refresh rate, color modes, tint level, and more) using the joystick and the OSD.

However, I found that the easiest way to control (most of) the R1’s settings is to use the Asus DisplayWidget Center. After installing the app, the R1 appeared as a controllable “display” within it. From there, I could control R1 settings via three menu tabs: Gaming, Visual, and Spatial Screen. The only option under Gaming is to enable Frame Rate Boost, which allows you to set a maximum refresh rate of 240 Hz (up from the default 120 Hz). From the Visual tab, you can control the tint level for the electrochromic lenses, brightness, text sharpness, and color temperature. In the Spatial Screen tab, you can adjust the screen aspect ratio, screen size, screen distance, IPD (57 to 66 mm), and control spatial lock.

Using the Asus Xreal ROG R1

The R1 is designed with gaming in mind, so I dedicated most of my time to testing it in that environment. For my testing, I used two different gaming rigs: a desktop PC with a Core 7 Ultra 265k and an RTX 4060 Ti, and an MSI Claw 8 EX AI+ handheld gaming PC with an Arc G3 Extreme SoC.

Without question, working with the desktop system was the most involved, as it required using the ROG Control Dock with various wires going in and out for video and power. However, using the R1 with the Claw 8 EX AI+ proved to be the simplest, with me only needing to plug the glasses into a free Thunderbolt 4 port.

I’ll take the time here to talk about the much-ballyhooed 240 Hz refresh rate option. This mode is enabled by selecting Frame Rate Boost from the R1’s OSD. However, I found that switching to this mode resulted in worse image quality, with a blurrier image and some jitter (especially at the outer edges of the viewable area), which led to eye strain. The effect was noticeable when using the ROG Control Dock and when plugged directly into a Thunderbolt 4 port. This is the byproduct of Asus and Xreal using a software algorithm to “boost” the frame rate from its native 120 Hz.

I experienced none of the visual anomalies in the native 120 Hz mode, so the 240 Hz mode was more of a novelty to me than something I’d rely on extensively for gaming. However, your experience may vary in this respect. The R1 supports an IPD range of 57-66 mm, and I’m just outside that range at 71 mm. So it could have been that my eyes were more sensitive to the 240 Hz mode.

While gaming on the desktop, I was able to play Battlefield 6 at 1080p and achieve over 100 FPS with DLSS Balanced enabled at High quality settings. Likewise, I easily hit similar FPS with details maxed out playing Lego Batman: Legacy of the Dark Knight.

The monitor I use for gaming is a 49-inch DQHD 240 Hz OLED, and I love the widescreen gaming aspect ratio. Being limited to 1080p resolution just didn’t seem to do the desktop gaming experience justice for me when using the R1. Yes, the image quality and response times are good, but if I’m sitting at my desk, I’d rather use my monitor.

That whole sentiment changes, however, when gaming on the Claw 8 EX AI+. Going from the 8-inch 1200p display to the simulated 171-inch 1080p display, with no limits on mobility, is an amazing experience. Since there’s only one cable to manage, going from the R1 to the handheld, you have great freedom in where you can game. From gaming on the couch, to the car, to your back porch, to sitting at the airport during a layover – the big-screen sensation that isthe R1 follows you anywhere.

Given the Xreal One Pro starting point, it’s no surprise that the R1 uses similar (or perhaps the same) Bose-tuned open-air speakers. As with the One Pro, the speakers are decent, with a respectable amount of bass and clarity at moderate to high volume levels. If you just want a low-impact, throw-on-and-go experience with the R1 and a gaming handheld, you’ll be more than pleased with the sound output. However, if you want the best mobile gaming experience, nothing is stopping you from also wearing a high-quality pair of wireless earbuds or headphones.

Bottom Line

The Asus ROG Xreal R1 glasses are a real testament to what’s possible when two companies at the top of their game work together on a singular product. Xreal is arguably the leader in modern AR glasses, while Asus is among the leading players in gaming peripherals, laptops, and handhelds. They’ve created an impressive product with a 240 Hz refresh mode, customizable RGB lighting effects, and support for the existing Xreal accessory ecosystem (namely the Xreal Eye camera).

The included ROG Control box lets you connect an HDMI or DisplayPort output from your graphics card to the glasses. It also provides quick access to the R1’s controls using the top-mounted joystick.

But the R1 really comes alive when used with a handheld gaming PC like Asus’ own ROG Ally, or a competing device like the MSI Claw 8 EX AI+. The R1 connects to these devices via a single cable and delivers a fully “mobile” gaming experience projected onto a virtual 171-inch display.

However, the primary sticking point with the R1, like many other high-end AR headsets, is the price tag. $849.99 is a tremendously high price, even with the ROG Control Box included. For example, the Xreal One Pro is $599, the Xreal One S is $449, while the RayNeo Air 4 Pro will set you back just $239. If you look past the 240 Hz mode (which can be hit-or-miss depending on the person), is the R1 really worth $250 more than the One Pro, or over $500 more than the Air 4 Pro? The objective answer is no on both counts.

OpenAI has just entered the hardware market with its very first product — a glorified macropad called the "Codex Micro." As the name suggests, it's meant to be used with the company's agentic coding platform, Codex, offering tactile response for an otherwise software-only experience. It's made by luxury keyboard company Work Louder, built on its existing Creator Micro 2 platform, and will cost a cool $230.

The Codex Micro, also dubbed kbd-1.0-codex-micro for some reason, comes in a frosted white color with a mix of translucent, legend-less keycaps and some opaque ones that serve as "command keys." There are thirteen mechanical keys, one rotary encoder, one joystick and a capacitive touch sensor running across the top of the device, The body is constructed out of CNC'd aluminum with some polycarbonate parts.

The see-through look of the Codex Micro is intentional because it relies on RGB (yes, you're reading this correctly) to convey responses. The six translucent keys up top have an integrated LED, and the entire perimeter of the device also lights up. According to Work Louder, the keys are supposed to provide a live view of your Codex threads, illuminating to signal different agents working.

The LEDs can show different colors based on where the agent is in a loop at any given time — whether it's thinking, stuck with an error, or perhaps requires feedback. White is used to denote idle behavior; green for an unread chat; blue for thinking; peach for a question; and red for an error. The sides of the Codex Micro also glow in the same color to make sure it catches your attention without you having to check manually.

Then there's the joystick in the top-right corner that you can click to launch common Codex workflows like reviewing a PR, debugging the aforementioned error, or refactoring code. The joystick opens up a radial menu that can be customized to do a bunch of other things, sort of like a Fortnite emote wheel (sorry).

Finally, there's a rotary encoder — a knob, if you will — that can be twisted to adjust the reasoning level in real-time or, you know, just adjust the volume or something. We've already mentioned the command keys, which are the white keycaps you see with Codex icons. You'll get a full set of those, including 32 unique keys, so you can swap each one out to suit your workflow.

As we mentioned earlier, the Codex Micro is based on the Creator Micro 2 platform, which Work Louder already built. In fact, this is just a reskin of that product as far as we can tell, and the price reflects that. You can buy a Creator Micro 2 for $174 and pay around $50 more for some icon keycaps, so the $230 pricing for the OpenAI-branded Codex Micro 2 lines up almost perfectly.

It's safe to say that unless you're a diehard vibecoder, the Codex Micro is probably overpriced for what's essentially just a really nice macropad. The deep integration with Codex is impressive and certainly useful for some people, but much of it is just a few minutes of (third-party) customization away on other keypads, too. Anyhow, the Codex Micro is available on Work Louder's website right now, and you can choose to buy it with either clicky or silent switches.

Valve's new Steam Controller lacks native XInput support, but you can still emulate it as long as Steam is running in the background. An enthusiast named Safijari has just engineered a more seamless solution, creating his own DIY "OpenPuck" that lets the Steam Controller emulate other gamepads on the fly. It can emulate Xbox, PlayStation, and even Nintendo layouts, and do so away from your PC.

OpenPuck serves as open-source firmware for a microcontroller, allowing you to easily flash and convert that dev board into a DIY Steam Controller puck. The firmware intercepts raw data from the Steam Controller and translates it on-device, enabling fully-fledged, real-time emulation without the need for Steam Input.

There are other options out there, but the creator used a Pro Micro NRF52480 from Amazon that has the appropriate Bluetooth and 2.4 GHz radios. Once primed in DFU mode, all you need to do is plug the board into your computer via USB-C, drag and drop the Arduino sketch onto it, and the microcontroller turns into an OpenPuck right away. You can 3D print a case to make the assembly look more polished, too.

The sketch is available on the project's GitHub page. Once you've flashed your controller, head to the configurator to manage the puck. It's a simple website that uses the WebUSB API to manage the controller, allowing you to switch between the different modes, which include Switch Pro, Xbox, DualSense (PS5), and DualShock 4 (PS4). The project description claims the puck only has a 1ms latency.

The Switch mode works natively on a Switch console with gyro and haptics support, but you can also emulate a Hori Pad that disables those extra features. The PlayStation modes only work on PC, but there's a special DualShock 3 mode that can work natively on a PlayStation 3 console as well, with gyro and haptics (Sixaxis). Of course, the default Steam Controller mode is also there.

You can switch between some of these different controller modes by pressing all four back buttons together and hitting either A, B, X, or Y, but the PlayStation modes require you to use the web configurator. Once everything is set up, however, the Steam Controller runs just like an official Switch, Xbox, or PlayStation controller without Steam even being open in the background.

There's even a bonus "ReversePuck" sub-project that allows a Steam Deck to act as an external controller, supporting all of the Steam Controller's features (except grip). If you flash a second NRF52840 Pro Micro and plug it into a Steam Deck, you can stream the Steam Deck's built-in controls across the room over 2.4GHz to your OpenPuck-equipped PC, giving you access to essentially another Steam Controller.

I've reviewed several Razer gaming chairs over the years and have come to appreciate their style, adjustability, and overall comfort. Now, Razer is introducing a new line of gaming chairs that leans heavily into styling.

Meet the new Soma Chroma, a mid-range gaming chair with a racing-style design and integrated RGB lighting customizable via Razer Chroma software. The chair can be powered via a USB-C cable or a portable power bank, and it connects to your PC via an integrated Bluetooth connection or a 2.4 GHz wireless USB dongle included in the box.

But is beauty more than skin deep? Let’s take a deep look at the Soma Chroma to see if there’s more to see other than its flashy design to make it a contender among the best gaming chairs.

Razer Soma Chroma Specifications

Assembling the Razer Soma Chroma

This is the fourth Razer gaming chair that I’ve reviewed, so I could pretty much put one together blindfolded. From the packaging to the tools/accessories included, not much has changed. Inside the box, you’ll find:

• Fabric gloves for assembly (glued to the inner flap)
• Backrest and seat base (left and right arms pre-attached)
• Metal, 5-arm base
• Casters 5x
• Gas lift, tilt mechanism
• Allen wrench, screws, and plastic covers for left/right side arms
• 2.4 GHz USB dongle (attached to assembly guide)

The chair arrived in a massive box, and the actual weight listed on the shipping label as 70 pounds. Upon opening the box, I was greeted by a familiar sight: a pair of black-and-green work gloves for assembling the chair. It’s a nice touch, but I always toss the gloves aside because I prefer to work with my bare hands for a relatively simple task like this.

A large green cardstock assembly guide sits atop the components, with a tiny box containing the 2.4 GHz wireless USB dongle attached to it.

The seat base, seatback, and 5-arm base were all wrapped in clear plastic bags to protect the metal and fabric on the components during shipping. The first step was to insert the castors into the 5-arm base, and then to insert the gas lift cylinder into the base.

The next step was to remove the four screws that are preinstalled from the factory from the bottom of the seat base with the included Allen wrench tool. Once removed, I attached the tilt mechanism, reinserted the same four screws, and placed it on the 5-arm base. The seatback has two screws on each side that must be removed before you attach it to the seat base.

Once the seatback was attached, I reinserted the four screws and slipped on the plastic cover to hide the screws and attachment mechanism. I'll note that on Razer Iskur chairs, the plastic cover is secured with a single screw on either side, and the screw is covered with a tiny plastic plug. The cover on the Soma Chroma simply slides and locks into place.

Once the chair is fully assembled, you’re not quite done yet. You still need to get power to the chair for the RGB lighting to work. The chair includes a relatively short USB-C cord that hangs out the back. Razer also supplied me with a 10-foot USB-C-to-USB-C extension cable, which I used to connect to my desktop PC. However, this setup is rather cumbersome and requires continually fighting the cable as you move around your workspace.

My solution was to plug the USB-C cable from the back of the chair into a portable power bank, and then tuck it into the zippered pouch at the bottom of the seatback. This worked well, and is clearly how the chair is intended to be used — however, it does not ship with a battery pack, nor does it ship with an extra-long cable (Razer sent that separately). So you'll need to invest in a battery pack or an extension cable to use the RGB on this chair.

Razer Soma Chroma Design

The Soma Chroma introduces an entirely new design language for Razer gaming chairs. Whereas the Iskur line has a more organic design, with softer curves and radiused edges, the Soma Chroma is more angular—especially on the seatback.

The seat back and the base have recessed channels, which I assume would help to improve airflow under your buttocks and around your back. It's an interesting design choice, though I imagine the recessed channels in the seat base will also quickly fill with dirt, dust, and food crumbs. The same design is mirrored on the back of the chair. While previous Iskur chairs have used the same material on both the front and back, the back of the Soma Chroma is constructed of hard plastic.

You'll find a zippered pouch at the back of the seat base, which runs the full width. It's large enough to accommodate a portable power bank, so you don't have to be tethered to a long extension cord to power the RGB lights.

Speaking of the RGB lights, they are controlled using Razer’s Synapse software. I installed the Synapse app on my desktop computer and then plugged in the 2.4 GHz wireless USB dongle (the chair also has integrated Bluetooth LE, if you prefer to go that route). The Soma Chroma then showed up in the app, allowing me to configure it.

There’s a brightness slider and an option to dim the lights after a period of inactivity on the right panel. In the right panel, there are options to change the default effects pattern. You can configure more advanced effects using the Chroma Studio. As you might expect, you can sync the RGBs with your games, although the effect is not evenly remotely noticeable unless you’re in a dark room.

During the daytime, you’re not going to notice the lights at all, and the only people who will notice are your coworkers on Google Meet/Zoom/Teams calls.

Although you can control the RGB effects in software, there are also physical controls at the top of the headrest.

Razer Soma Chroma Adjustments and Comfort

The Soma Chroma features dual-density cold-cured foam for the seat cushion. It did a good job of conforming to my buttocks, as it's specifically designed to relieve pressure points. There's good thigh support for my 5-foot-10-inch and 161-ish-pound frame.

What you gain in RGB goodness, you lose in adjustability. There's no adjustable lumbar support — what you see is what you get. Razer said that the lumbar curve is designed to encourage a neutral position and reduce fatigue after long-term use. That may be true in theory, but my lower back begged to differ after sitting in the chair for 6 hours straight in an upright and "ergonomically-correct" position. This was never an issue for me with the Iskur V2, with its 360-degree lumbar support — or even with the Iskur V2 X, which has no lumbar controls.

The backrest is adjustable from its default 90-degree upright position all the way back to 155 degrees. I spent the majority of my time either fully upright or slightly reclined at about 100 degrees. Anything more than 100 degrees just doesn't feel natural to me in any gaming chair.

The Soma Chroma features 2D armrests, which are adjustable for swivel and height. The armrests have an up/down travel of 4 inches and can swivel in or out by up to 25 degrees. They're densely padded and were a comfortable home for my elbows during extended sessions.

The chair has a height adjustment mechanism via a handle located on the right side of the seat base. I preferred to leave the seat at its maximum height of 20.1 inches.

Bottom Line

The Razer Soma Chroma is an interesting chair for gamers who are already fully entrenched in the Chroma ecosystem. The Soma Chroma has full access to Razer’s software suite, so you can sync all your devices to suit your gaming (or other media) needs. The chair also features built-in Bluetooth LE and includes a 2.4 GHz wireless USB dongle.

The RGB integration is also well-done, with support for portable power banks and a zippered pouch on the back to discreetly hide it. You can also use a USB-C extension cord to connect the Soma Chroma to your PC, but it is a nightmare for ergonomics. Of course, the chair ships with neither a portable battery pack or an extension cord, so you'll need to purchase these separately.

On the flip side, the Soma Chroma isn’t as adjustable as some of Razer’s other chairs, as it lacks 3D armrests and lumbar controls. I also found that I had some minor lower back pain when using the chair for hours in my preferred seating position. Of course, your mileage may vary, but I haven't experienced this with previous Razer chairs.

And the other matter to consider is the $499 price. If you don’t need RGB wizardry, the Razer Iskur V2 X is $200 cheaper and just as good on chair fundamentals.

Smart pet technology firm Fi has launched the Fi Ultra Dog Tracker today. This new wearable device is claimed to be “the world’s first consumer wearable powered by T-Satellite with Starlink.” There seem to be a few qualifications in that statement, but they should not be necessary, as, according to our searches, this is indeed the first dog tracking wearable with Starlink integration. To be clear, the dog wears the Fi Ultra, not the owner.

Getting a collar-worn device for your faithful friend, integrating T-Satellite with Starlink, could deliver an important additional layer of security for dog owners. Previous products available in the pet tracker market could be of limited value in areas with spotty or absent LTE or GPS coverage. Satellite-grade dog tracking may therefore be a boon to adventurous dogs and owners who live and explore beyond the reach of traditional networks.

"Fi Ultra has transformed what's possible for dog owners," said Jonathan Bensamoun, co-founder and CEO of Fi. "Our mission has always been to strengthen the human-animal connection via data, to give dogs more freedom while keeping them safe, and with the power of T-Satellite with Starlink behind Fi Ultra, that mission now extends to every corner of the country and soon, every corner of the world."

Fi Ultra also features automatic switching between LTE and satellite coverage for continuous location tracking in remote areas. This new tracker can work in concert with the previously launched Fi Series 3+ and Fi Mini dog tracker devices.

Now, to what some will feel is a drawback, Fi Ultra is bundled with a subscription service. This might be inevitable due to the use of partner satellite and cellular connectivity, though. The scale of the fees is said to be $199 plus a $189 per year membership for new customers. Established Fi tracker customers can buy in for a flat $299 fee. The bottom line is, with a tracker like this, your dog should never have to face the perilous journey dramatized in Lassie Come Home.

Nobody loves their printer. Decades of DRM chips, subscription ink, and firmware that bricks non-branded cartridges have made sure of that. But now, Paris-based Open Tools wants to hand the hardware back to the people who paid for it. The start-up has shared its first video of a working prototype and announced that its 'Open Printer' has been nominated for two French Design Awards, though the repairable, open-hardware inkjet still carries no announced price, ship date, or print speed, roughly nine months after it first appeared on Crowd Supply.

The machine runs on a Raspberry Pi Zero W, takes refillable HP cartridges with no DRM, and prints to cut sheets or paper rolls through an integrated cutter, with its design files available under a Creative Commons license that prohibits commercial reuse.

A Raspberry Pi Zero W runs the print server, while an STMicroelectronics STM32 microcontroller drives a separate cartridge board. Control comes from a 1.47-inch TFT LCD and a jog wheel, with USB-C, USB-A, Bluetooth 4.1, and a 24V DC input. The manufacturer's recent progress update reported that the prototype can now print in both black and full color.

In terms of printing, that runs through CUPS, the open-source Common Unix Printing System, meaning the hardware works with Windows, macOS, Linux, Android, and iOS without any vendor drivers. Open Tools quotes resolution at 600 dpi for black and 1200 dpi for color, with the machine accepting HP 63 cartridges in the U.S., HP 302 in Europe, and HP 803 in Asia. Each is refillable, and black and color run independently rather than blocking printing entirely when one of the tanks empties.

Open Tools licenses its electronics, firmware, mechanical files, and bill of materials under Creative Commons BY-NC-SA 4.0, a noncommercial term that allows owners to repair, modify, and share the design, but bars anyone from building and selling the printer.

However, Open Printer only uses HP cartridge bodies with integrated printheads, so its refill freedom will only last for as long as HP keeps selling those cartridges in a form that accepts third-party ink. It's an odd choice for Open Tools, given that HP is the vendor that's by far the most associated with cartridge lockouts, having tied cheaper printers to its HP+ and Instant Ink programs before discontinuing those online-only models in 2024 after a backlash.

Wi-Fi and Ethernet are still being integrated, according to the update, alongside work on ink drying, printhead cleaning cycles, paper insertion, and dithering algorithms. The spec sheet lists Wi-Fi 5, which exceeds the 802.11n radio built into the Raspberry Pi Zero W, so networking will probably rely on an added module, but that remains to be seen.

Open Tools has published no funding goal to date, and says the final price depends on production volume, component costs, certification, and remaining engineering, with the figure to be revealed when the crowdfunding campaign opens in the coming months.

I don't think I need a keyboard with a built-in touchscreen, but I also didn't think I needed a keyboard with a built-in Stream Deck (and I was, apparently, wrong). Turtle Beach's take on the customizable-macro-pad-on-your-keyboard is its recently-launched Command Series, which includes a handful of ultra-customizable peripherals with fancy touchscreen inputs — two keyboards, a modular numberpad, and three mice.

The flagship product is the Turtle Beach Command Series KB7 TKL: a low-profile, wired keyboard with magnetic Hall Effect switches and a built-in "Command Center" touchscreen. It features a modified TKL layout (the touchscreen is where the navigation cluster would normally be), dedicated media and macro keys, a light-diffusing silicon wrist rest, and connection points on either side for the KP7 — a modular, standalone 10-key numberpad with a bunch of extra keys, buttons, and a programmable knob (it's actually so fancy we're going to give it its own review). The KB7 is basically the Corsair Galleon 100 SD, but modular and touch...ier. And it's about as pricey — it's available now, in black, for $199.99 (not including the KP7 — that's a separate $99.99 purchase).

Design and Construction of the KB7

The KB7 has a TKL layout — sort of. It has a full function row and arrow keys, but it has a 4.3-inch touchscreen where the navigation cluster would normally be. It's a slim, well-built keyboard with a brushed aluminum top plate and a plastic chassis. Size-wise, it's pretty standard for a TKL, measuring 15.71 inches (399mm) wide by 6.85 inches (174mm) deep, and it's 1.22 inches (31mm) thick at its thickest point (including keycaps/knobs). It's not particularly heavy — it weighs 1.89 pounds (858g) without the wrist rest, which weighs an additional 9.24 ounces (262g). That's nowhere near as hefty as my current favorite TKL — the 5.25-pound (2,380g) Wobkey Crush 80 Reboot Pro — and it's even a little lighter than Logitech's budget-friendly low-profile wireless G515 TKL, which weighs 1.94 pounds (880g). So, yeah, if you're looking for a keyboard with weight... this isn't it.

The KB7 has a nice spacious setup for a TKL — there's plenty of room above the function row for extra controls, including a dedicated volume knob, two media keys, and four triangular shortcut keys. The keys come with presets programmed in — from left to right, there's a game mode button, a profile switch button, a mic mute button, and a lighting toggle button — but all of these keys, including the clickable volume wheel and the two dedicated media keys, can be remapped in Turtle Beach's Swarm II software. The volume knob is notched and features metal textured edges for a premium feel, but the rest of these extra media/shortcut keys are mediocre at best. Pressing them gives cheap, plasticky feedback — but at least they're easy enough to press thanks to all the extra space around them.

The KB7's standout feature is its 4.3-inch full-color "Command Center" touchscreen, which is located on the left side of the board where you'd normally find the navigation cluster. The touchscreen comes with the navigation cluster programmed in, of course — a full 3 x 3 grid, as well as a link at the top that directs you to download the Swarm II software for full functionality. Once you download Swarm II, you can replace this link with three additional touch-buttons, for a full 12-button grid — similar to the physical LCD key setup of the Corsair Galleon 100 SD.

Of course, the KB7's touchscreen doesn't have the extra knobs that the Galleon 100 SD has, but it is a touchscreen, so you can swipe left and right to switch "pages" of button layouts (most of my dial usage on the Galleon 100 SD is, admittedly, moving between layouts). The touchscreen also features a few non-remappable "buttons," including a home button at the bottom, a profile switch button in the top left, and a settings menu at the top, which drops down to let you change settings such as keyboard and touchscreen brightness, set the actuation point, toggle ReacTap and Rapid Trigger, record macros, and remap keys. (There's also yet another button for lighting adjustment, as well as one for profile switching — functions that are extra-redundant, given that the shortcut keys are also pre-mapped with them.)

The KB7 comes with an accompanying silicon wrist rest that's virtually identical to that of the Roccat Vulcan II Max, which is still one of the prettiest keyboards we've tested to date. The wrist rest is made of soft, smooth translucent silicon with a grooved design that showcases the keyboard's bright, customizable RGB lighting when it's hooked into the bottom of the board. It isn't powered, like the wrist rest that comes with Razer's BlackWidow V4 Pro, it just diffuses the lighting from the board onto the silicon. It's a cool feature that still makes for one of the prettiest keyboard lightshows around. The wrist rest itself isn't particularly plush, but it gives you a nice, gradual slope to the keyboard (which is low-profile, anyway, so you probably don't strictly need it), and it's durable and easy to clean.

Along the top of the keyboard, in the upper left corner, you'll find a USB-C port and a USB-A passthrough port. The passthrough port is nice — and it's also practically necessary, because this keyboard needs a lot of juice. It can connect to your PC through one USB-C port, or it can connect to your PC through two USB-A ports — again, similar to the Roccat Vulcan II Max, which also required two USB-A ports' worth of power to run. I guess that's the price of pretty lighting (and 4.3-inch touchscreens). But at least you get one USB-A port back as a passthrough port, I guess.

The back of the keyboard has two sets of flip-out feet, which raise the typing angle from basically flat to 5 and 7 degrees, respectively. It also features rails on both sides for connecting the KP7 modular keypad — just slide the keypad onto the rails, and you basically have a full-size keyboard (now with a touchscreen in the middle). It's nice that the rails are on both sides, even though I suspect that left-handed numberpad users make up a minuscule percentage of the population.

In the box, the KB7 comes with a few accessories: the silicon wristrest, a 6-foot (1.8m) braided USB-C to USB-C cable, a USB-C to dual-USB-A adapter, a keycap puller, and four shiny, textured keycaps (designed for the W/A/S/D keys, but they can be used on any standard-sized key).

Specs

Typing and Gaming Experience on the KB7

The KB7 is a TKL (-ish) keyboard with Turtle Beach's in-house Titan low-profile linear magnetic Hall Effect switches. They have an adjustable actuation point (0.1 - 3.2mm) and a lifecycle rating of 100 million keystrokes. They're not hot-swappable. Like other magnetic Hall Effect switches, they support all the trendy gaming features that will probably get you banned, including Rapid Trigger, multi-input,controller mode, and ReacTap (SOCD).

I'll admit that I didn't love the way typing felt on the KB7 initially — the linear magnetic low-profile switches combined with the relatively flat, lightweight double-shot PBT keycaps makes for a much flightier typing experience than I'm used to. It took less than an hour for me to get used to it, however, and all in all it's a pretty solid typing experience considering I don't love linear, low-profile, or magnetic switches. The flat, shine-through keycaps make it easy to move your fingers across the board quickly, and the relatively spacious layout means you won't make too many mistakes once you've gotten used to the feel. The board sounds decent — it's not incredible, or anything, but it gives pretty solid thunky feedback for a mainstream gaming keyboard.

I did have some issues that definitely weren't related to my "just getting used to the feel of the board," however — issues that could probably be remedied with a firmware update and software that worked, but, well... I'm not going to hold my breath. I had several issues while I was typing this review, including ghost inputs, missed inputs, and repeat glitches. All of these issues were quickly resolved, but having to stop the review six times because the keyboard was acting up does not give me great confidence in the board's ability to perform under pressure. I didn't have any serious issues while I was gaming, but I also don't generally play a lot of fast-paced first-person shooters where latency and input accuracy is wildly important (I play a handful for testing, but that's it). The KB7 does boast a speedy 8,000 Hz polling rate, but that means nothing if you can't get the right keys to actuate.

The touchscreen performance was decent, though I don't know if I'd trust it in a high-pressure situation. While it registered my inputs quickly and accurately, it's still a touchscreen — hardly the kind of input you want to rely on when you're in the middle of a high-stakes battle for your (digital) life. So, while it's useful for general macro-pad type things, it's not something I'd recommend as part of your ultra-competitive gamer arsenal.

Features and Software of the KB7

The KB7 is customizable via Turtle Beach's Swarm II software, which you can download by pressing the link on the touchscreen. You can use Swarm II to program the keyboard (remapping keys, adjusting actuation, recording macros, etc), the touchscreen, and the keyboard's bright, per-key RGB backlighting.

The keyboard settings are pretty standard for a magnetic switch gaming keyboard — you can turn on and adjust Rapid Trigger, multi-input, and ReacTap, and you can fine-tune the actuation point of every single key individually (a thing that nobody does). You can also remap every single key, except the Windows key and the Fn key, to do what you want — on the primary layer you can only swap around the existing alphanumeric punctuation keys (e.g. if you want to set up an unusual keyboard layout), but on the secondary (Fn) and tertiary (Easy Shift) layers you can set keys to do everything from outputting macros to changing system settings and, of course... launching AI? (Apparently this is such a core functionality that it comes standard in the Swarm II software, now — and it's not just CoPilot. There are options for ChatGPT, Gemini, Deep Seek, and Grok, too.)

But the real customization is, or should be, in the touchscreen. It is, however, unfortunately — but not unexpectedly — limited. There are several native widgets you can swap in, but they're not particularly life-changing: PC performance monitoring (CPU / GPU / RAM), multimedia controls (which there already exist dedicated keys for), opening apps / websites / files / folders, controlling your Turtle Beach devices (by which I mean mouse DPI), executing macros, and a count down timer. There's also a tab for third-party apps, which currently consist of Discord (though you'll need to set it up via the Discord developer portal as an integration), Counter Strike, Steam (which just opens Steam), OBS, and Streamlabs. You can also assign the standard keyboard functions, Windows functions, and shortcuts such as copy / paste, forward / back, launch calculator, etc.

It's a start, but it's definitely nowhere near as robust as the functionality you'll find on Elgato's Stream Decks. Still, this limited functionality is probably workable for most people (after all, you can set up a lot of the functionality you get through third-party apps and plugins by just spending some time creating macros) — if it worked. But the software is, well, let's just say finicky... at best. Setting up the touchscreen seemed to be pretty straightforward, but getting it to stay set up was more of a chore. The software frequently failed in my testing — it would reset, restart, shut down, prompt another six-cycle firmware update (this, at least, I was prepared for — it's pretty standard for Turtle Beach devices to require 14 firmware updates out of the box), etc. When the software was working, the touchscreen worked as expected and could probably replace my Stream Deck. But this was only about 85% of the time, which would probably be decent if my Stream Deck didn't work 100% of the time. And so the touchscreen has ultimately been relegated to a fun gimmick, at least for now.

The Bottom Line

After my surprising love affair with the Corsair Galleon 100 SD, I really wanted to love the KB7 — after all, it's basically the Corsair Galleon 100 SD, but with the option of an actual 10-key numberpad, which was my only real gripe with the latter. But Corsair owns Elgato, which has been making Stream Decks for almost a decade — and has the software and the third-party plugins to back them up. And at the end of the day, a highly customizable macro pad is actually only as customizable as its software allows for. While Turtle Beach currently lacks the integrations to fully compete with Elgato, I do think it has a fighting chance... if it can get the Swarm II software to work, like, at all. I can certainly work without built-in Creative Suite integration, but only if there's something to work with.

I still love the idea of the KB7 and I'm fully ready to hop on the Command Center bandwagon, as soon as Swarm II lets me. But given that this is hardly the first time Swarm II has shot itself in the foot, I'll probably keep this Galleon 100 SD around for a little while longer.

I realize I'm probably in the minority, but I love full-size keyboards because I love 10-key numberpads. For data entry and for everything else (let's face it, I don't do much data entry). Since I often have to test keyboards that aren't full-size, I'm always on the look out for a great standalone numberpad — but the options usually consist of $15 (and under) bargain bin finds or difficult-to-justify $100+ premium picks.

Turtle Beach's Command Series KP7 isn't exactly in the middle — it retails for $99.99, after all — but it's an interesting option nonetheless. This 28-key modular gaming keypad is part of the brand's recently-launched Command Series, which consists of several modular, multi-input peripherals (two keyboards, three mice, and this keypad). It's designed to work with the series' flagship Turtle Beach Command Series KB7 keyboard, which is a premium TKL keyboard with a built-in touchscreen. The KP7 hooks onto either side of the KB7, turning it into a full-size keyboard with a numberpad and a bunch of extra macro keys. The KB7 retails for $199.99, so the full set is just shy of $300. But the KP7 is interesting because it works very well on its own — in fact, it might even perform better as a standalone keypad than it does with the KB7 it's designed to complement.

The KP7 is a modular gaming keypad with 28 keys, one clickable, programmable dial, and one (non-programmable) button for switching between numberpad mode and game mode. It can hook onto the right side of the KB7 to function as a typical numberpad, or it can hook onto the left side to function as a gaming keypad — complete with an extendable thumb bar. It features magnetic Hall Effect linear switch, bright per-key RGB backlighting, and its own mini wrist rest. It's available now, as a separate purchase from the KB7, for $99.99.

Design of the KP7

The KP7 is a standalone macropad that consists of a 10-key numberpad surrounded by a bunch of other keys. At the top, there are three additional Fn keys, as well as a profile switch key — it seems Turtle Beach is really trying to push multiple profiles, because if you use this with the KB7 keyboard, this marks the fourth dedicated way to switch profiles. On the right of the numberpad are two columns of keys: The first column consists of the math function keys that usually surround a numberpad, and the second column has four dedicated macro keys.

In the bottom right corner there's a programmable knob and an additional thumb button, which is set up by default as a space key. In the upper right corner there's a small button that switches between numberpad mode and game mode — game mode turns the center keys into W / A / S / D (and changes the surrounding keys to the corresponding keys on the left half of the keyboard. It essentially becomes a gaming half-keyboard, sort of like Nordic Game Supply's The Shrimp.

For the times you're using it in gaming mode, the KP7's lower right cluster of keys, including the dial, extend down and right so you can use them with your thumb while you've got your left hand on the center keys. The wrist rest is even cut out to accommodate the keys when extended, which is a nice touch.

The KP7 is well-built for a standalone numberpad — it follows the same design philosophy as Turtle Beach's KB7, with a brushed aluminum top plate and a plastic chassis. It has low-profile linear switches, flat, double-shot PBT keycaps with shine-through legends, and bright, customizable RGB backlighting that extends to its silicon wrist rest, which is like a mini version of the wrist rest that comes with the KB7 (and, previously, the Roccat Vulcan II Max). The wrist rest slots into the bottom of the numberpad and is made of misty, translucent silicon with a grooved pattern that acts as a conduit for the lighting in the keypad. The wrist rest only attaches on one side of the keypad, so the lighting effect isn't quite as bright or mesmerizing as is the lighting effect on the keyboard, but it's still pretty and comfortable.

The KP7 has connectors on both sides that are designed to slot into the rails on either side of the Turtle Beach KB7 keyboard. The keypad gets its power from the keyboard when it's connected, so you shouldn't have to plug it in separately via USB-C, which is for when you want to use the keypad alone. However, I found that the keypad's lighting seemed to be inconsistent when it was powered through the keyboard — it flickered and reset itself several times throughout my testing, but this did resolve itself when I plugged it in via its own USB port. Of course, plugging it in via USB port means the KB7 and KP7 keyboard combo takes up either one USB-C and one USB-A port or three USB-A ports, which is a lot for what is essentially a single full-size keyboard.

In the box, the KP7 comes with a 5.9-foot (1.8m) detachable braided USB-C to USB-A cable, a silicon wrist rest, and four glossy, textured keys keys (to replace the center W / A / S / D keys, for quicker tactile recognition), and a keycap puller. The back of the keypad has two sets of flip-out feet that raise the typing angle from flat to 5 - 7 degrees. These match the KB7, so you can raise and lower the entire setup as a single unit.

Specs

Performance of the KP7

It's hard to judge a keypad's performance on its own, but the KP7 has enough keys that it can function as a single-handed "controller." It features the same linear magnetic Hall Effect switches as we saw in the KB7, with the same functionality — individually adjustable actuation point (between 0.1 and 3.2mm), Rapid Trigger, multi-input, and ReacTap (SOCD). It also sports an 8,000 Hz polling rate, so I guess if you're playing a game that only requires the left half of your keyboard, this might be one way to get the ultra-low latency and speed of an 8,000 Hz magnetic switch keyboard without having to buy the whole keyboard (though it does cost exactly half of what the KB7 costs, and I don't think it's quite half the size).

The low-profile switches and flat keycaps make for pretty speedy input, and while the layout is slightly different from standard numberpad layouts, it's not too bad — in numberpad mode, the first column to the right of the numbers has five keys, but the bottom two keys are both Enter and the two keys above that are both + (normally, the Enter and + keys are vertical 2U keys). It's not quite the same, but it worked well enough for me for data input and other numberpad tasks.

The switches themselves are pre-lubed linear switches with a smooth, consistent keypress and no tactile or audible bump. Typing on the KP7 (well, for as much typing as you can do) is a surprisingly pleasant experience — it's not going to wow any hardcore keyboard enthusiasts, but the linear switches, slim, flat keycaps, and speedy, lightweight Hall Effect actuation is a great combo for extra gaming keys. And, as the KP7 is entirely tactile, it's much easier to integrate into your work (or game) flow. The extendable thumb bar (which just pulls away from the keyboard in a diagonal / downward direction) is also comfortable when you're using the KP7 as a gamepad. The keys on the thumb bar are well-placed, but I did find the knob difficult to turn without hitting other keys, as it's flush with the keys around it.

Software

The KP7 is programmable via Turtle Beach's Swarm II software, which originally belonged to Roccat. It's designed to work in tandem with the KB7 keyboard, but you can still program it fully without having to depend on the keyboard at all. You can use Swarm II to change the keypad's actuation, toggle on and adjust Rapid Trigger and ReacTap, and set up multi-input. You can also use it to remap keys up to four layers deep (Fn, Game Mode, and Easy Shift).

You can customize the KP7's bright, per-key RGB lighting in the software. This works pretty well when you're just customizing the KP7 alone, but I had issues getting the keypad to light up seamlessly alongside the KB7 (they were often out of sync, and/or the KP7 seemed to go into hibernation immediately and often when it was connected to the KB7 — even if it was being powered separately via its own USB-C port.

The Bottom Line

The KP7 is an interesting product — it's designed to work with the KB7, but I actually like it better as a standalone keypad. Partly because it works better as a standalone keypad — it was very finicky in my tests when it was connected to the KB7, regardless of whether it was powered separately or through the keyboard. This is probably because of the software, which, while fairly straightforward for the KP7, still wasn't great. For example, I was prompted to update the KP7's firmware everytime I connected it to the KB7 — but not when I used it as a standalone keypad.

The KP7 isn't the only standalone numberpad-slash-gaming-keypad out there, but it's the only one I've seen that manages to switch between the two modes pretty seamlessly. We tested Nordic Game Supply's The Shrimp mini-keyboard a few years ago, but that was definitely designed as a gaming keypad first and a numberpad... not at all. At $99.99, the KP7 isn't cheap, but it's versatile enough that you can definitely make it worth it.

One of Jensen Huang’s used leather jackets is up for auction, posted with an estimate of $40,000 to $60,000. Sotheby’s, better known as a purveyor of blockbuster fine art and historic artifacts, is auctioning this item of worn clothing. The storied auction house asserts this is a genuine article, as worn by the Nvidia CEO at an event in Taipei in 2023. It has also made sure the signature within the garment has been professionally authenticated. Having watched a few tech memorabilia auctions lately, I’d say the official estimate is on the low side.

Sotheby’s auction is titled ‘The Jensen Jacket: Jensen Huang's Tom Ford Leather Jacket.’ Its catalog notes that this signature black leather jacket has been Huang’s standard attire for more than a decade and has become “associated with some of the most consequential moments in modern technology.” This jacket, or one like it, has been on stage helping to define the rise of artificial intelligence. It may also have been worn by the Nvidia CEO visiting a humble street food vendor in a Taiwan night market.

So, it is important to understand that this is one of many jackets Huang has sported during keynotes, announcements, and special events over the years. Like any good auction house, Sotheby's has thus certified the provenance of this particular garment.

“The Jacket has been photomatched by PSA [Professional Sports Authenticator] to Jensen Huang, co-founder and chief executive officer of Nvidia Corp., during the Hon Hai [Foxconn] Tech Day in Taipei on October 18, 2023,” writes Sotheby’s in its auction catalog. A very specific array of creases and deformities in the right-breast pocket flap appears to confirm that this jacket was worn by the Nvidia CEO at the Hon Hai [Foxconn] Tech Day in Taipei in October 2023. Sotheby’s also states that “The signature has been authenticated by James Spence Authentication.”

Any readers interested in grabbing this jacket will likely be interested in the condition of the garment. There are a few pictures on the catalog page, including a close-up, which was used to ‘photomatch’ this particular 2023 Tom Ford-made sample. As a Sotheby’s account holder, I also read the condition report, which begins with the assertion that “The Jacket and signature are in pristine condition.” But there follows a lot of legal jargon which can be summed up as – the actual condition and appearance of the jacket might not be perfect, nor look exactly like the photographic representations of it.

If you do splash your cash on this old jacket, you should be pleased to know that your hard-earned money will be going to charity. Sotheby’s says that the sale was organized by Long Journey Ventures to benefit the Edge Institute, described as “a non-profit that convenes people working at the frontiers of tech, science, culture, and society in pop-up villages (Edge Cities) to live together and experiment towards a brighter future.”

A low estimate to attract bidders?

Does the $40,000 to $60,000 estimate take into account the jacket's Jensanity factor, or AI inflation? Also, we are in an AI boom right now, with skyrocketing prices and valuations, yet people might have spent more than the top estimate for a mere NFT of this jacket a few years ago.

On a cautious note, though, we aren’t sure how many of these jackets the Nvidia CEO has in his wardrobe. And if there were another 10 or 20 that may someday be released for sale, then the expected price could slide dramatically.

A brand new Tom Ford SS2023 menswear collection jacket, without a sprinkle of genuine Jensanity, costs around $9,000. In that context, Sotheby’s estimate puts only a modest premium on this verified genuine Jensen Huang-worn and signed artifact.

Elon Musk’s Neuralink, along with several other startups, have been experimenting with brain-computer interfaces (BCIs) for years now, allowing patients who have lost mobility to control computers using their minds alone. However, most of these require invasive surgery to install the sensor needed to detect brain signals. Meta is working to change this with its Brain2Qwerty non-invasive BCI. Instead of relying on implants, this system uses a non-invasive magnetoencephalography (MEG) scanner to read the faint changes in a brain’s magnetic fields due to brain activity and then correlate this to keypresses on a virtual keyboard.

The latest release is actually the second version of the non-invasive BCI, with the first one released last year as proof of concept. This second version has significantly increased accuracy after it was trained on ten times more data for each test subject. The company says that its average accuracy now hits 61%, with the best participant capable of hitting as much as 78% word accuracy. By comparison, the previous version only had an average of 40% accuracy, while the best user only achieved 48%.

While this sounds like a big improvement, Meta concedes that this is still not good enough for clinical testing. The 61% average accuracy still feels hit-and-miss and would be difficult to use in everyday conversation. Nevertheless, the company says that it plans to use more data for training the system, and that it’s continuously getting better results from it so far. Another issue it’s facing is the size of MEG sensors. Current MEG technology requires massive hardware — even larger than the user and the chair they’re sitting in. There are promising advancements in MEG sensors, though, which could result in smaller devices that are more manageable to use in clinical settings.

Meta’s non-invasive BCI alternative to Neuralink and other solutions that require brain surgery is still a long way off from allowing patients to control a webcam and play World of Warcraft. But it is still an important development in neuroprosthetics, and it could eventually result in medical devices that patients could use to restore or improve their quality of life. Meta isn’t the only one working on BCIs that don’t require major surgery — a team from Georgia Tech has also developed a tiny BCI that could be easily slid under the scalp, while Valve founder and superyacht enthusiast Gabe Newell also built a startup intent on creating a BCI that doesn’t require a battery.

An aerospace worker and programmer created a GitHub-hosted program that lets your Steam Controller automatically walk back towards its charging puck as soon as you place it down on your desk. The web app, called the Auto-Charge Vision Tracker, uses a camera and computer vision to determine where your controller is, then it uses its powerful built-in motors to make it creep towards its docking station to top itself up when you’re not using it. The great thing about this web app is that you don’t need to install anything on your PC to use it. Just go to the website, connect your Steam Controller, ensure your camera is directly overhead your desk, click the puck, the front, and the back of your controller, and you should be good to go.

This is an interesting use case for the Steam Controller’s haptic motors, which are primarily designed to give feedback to gamers. Although this app, which you can run in the background on your browser, is designed to make recharging your controller more comfortable, you do need a flat surface without any obstructions to ensure that the Steam Controller can reach the charging puck. Aside from that, the vibration and movement on the desk tends to cause abrasion on the controller’s surface, meaning you’ll soon find flat spots appearing on the surface that contact your desk. Ray Foss, the maker of the GitHub repo, said that adding rubber feet should help prevent this and might also give the controller better acceleration and handling.

Another programmer has created something similar before — a web app that uses the controller’s rumble motor to let it slip and slide on your desk. But what makes this project different is that instead of manually “driving” your Steam Controller, it uses computer vision to automatically guide the controller back towards the charging puck, making it look like a robot vacuum.

These apps have limited usability — after all, the Steam Controller would still be unable to hop from the coffee desk in your living room to the TV console where your charging puck and Steam Machine are likely sitting. Nevertheless, it shows Valve’s commitment to making it easy for gamers to use their devices the way they want to. The company even released the CAD files for the Steam Controller and Puck back in May 2026, just a few days after the controller became widely available. But if you want to give this curiosity a try, you can easily do so by going to the Auto-Charge Vision Tracker website. The program’s files are also readily available on GitHub if you want to play around with the program and make your own version.

Everyone wants the freedom of a great wireless gaming headset, but it's hard to find one that's budget-friendly without compromising on... well, a lot. HyperX's new Cloud Stinger 3 Wireless is a budget-friendly (ish) wireless headset that doesn't compromise on much — it's got large, 50mm dynamic drivers with a frequency response range of 10 - 50,000 Hz, an ultra lightweight, comfortable frame with reinforced metal yokes for durability, and it gets up to 80 hours of battery life on a single charge, which is a number we usually only see in much pricier products. The Cloud Stinger 3 Wireless comes in at just under $100, which isn't nothing, but is significantly cheaper than the $200 - $300 price range of headsets with similar specs.

Design and Comfort of the Cloud Stinger 3 Wireless

The Cloud Stinger 3 Wireless is an over-ear (circumaural) wireless gaming headset with a lightweight plastic frame and a non-detachable flip-to-mute boom mic. It's mostly made of plastic, with a matte black finish and some machined texturing around the outer edges of the large, oval earcups, but it does have stainless steel sliders in the headband for durability. The earcups are independently height-adjustable, and they also tilt and swivel 90 degrees for flat storage (though the headset doesn't come with a travel bag or case). The earpads and the underside of the headband are padded with soft, leatherette-covered memory foam, which does an excellent job of passive noise cancellation.

It looks like a gaming headset, mostly because it has a non-detachable boom mic. HyperX's HX logo is glossily debossed on both earcups, while the HyperX text logo adorns the top of the headband. It's not unattractive, but it does look a little cheap — I blame the matte black plastic; it's hard to have this particular finish without looking like you're cutting corners at least somewhat. It feels relatively sturdy for its weight, and the flexible frame makes me think it would hold up decently well if you take care of it. The leatherette-covered memory foam padding feels more premium than the rest of the headset, so that's a nice touch.

The Cloud Stinger 3 Wireless is expectedly lightweight, weighing in at just 10.1 ounces (286.5g). It's almost two ounces lighter than the extremely comfortable HyperX Cloud III S Wireless (12.05oz / 341.5g), and it's half an ounce lighter than the Turtle Beach Atlas Air (10.61oz / 301g), which is one of the lightest wireless headsets we've tested. It's still heavier than wired lightweight headsets, however, such as the SteelSeries Arctis Nova 1 (8.3oz / 235g).

Weight isn't the only factor when it comes to comfort, but it certainly helps — and the Cloud Stinger 3 Wireless is a very comfortable and adjustable headset. The headband measures around nine inches (228.6mm) with the earcups fully retracted, and each earcup can be extended around 1.5 inches (38mm) for a total headband length of just under 12 inches (304.8mm). While it wasn't so comfortable that I forgot I was wearing it, I had no problems wearing the Cloud Stinger 3 Wireless for hours at a time.

It's a wireless headset, so it's got several on-ear controls. On the left earcup, from back to front, there's a power button and a USB-C charging port. On the right earcup, from back to front, there's a multi-function button, a volume wheel, and a mode switch for switching between 2.4GHz wireless and Bluetooth.

In the box, the Cloud Stinger 3 Wireless comes with a short, 1.6-foot (0.5m) USB-C to USB-C charging cable, a 2.4GHz wireless USB-C dongle, and a USB-C to USB-A adapter.

Audio Performance of the Cloud Stinger 3 Wireless

The Cloud Stinger 3 Wireless has large 50mm dynamic drivers with a listed frequency response range of 10 - 50,000 Hz, which is pretty far outside the normal range of 20 - 20,000 Hz (though we often see headsets outside this range these days).

Music on the Cloud Stinger 3 Wireless sounded good — a fairly neutral profile with no immediately noticeable distortion at either end of the spectrum. The bass in songs such as Kaskade's POW POW POW was powerful-feeling without being muddy, and I could hear the full reign of the kick drum at the beginning of Lorde's Royals. It wasn't the absolute clearest bass I've heard, but I was impressed with the balance between power and restraint. The mid- and high-range also sounded good, though perhaps a little too neutral for my taste. The high strings in Britney Spears' Toxic were well-curbed, but the dynamics in songs such as Farruko's Pepas and David Guetta's Titanium (ft. Sia) felt a little... lacking in excitement.

Games also sounded good on the Cloud Stinger 3 Wireless. While it doesn't have a particularly wide soundstage, the headset did a good job of picking up detail in dense, layered audio environments such as the cities of Baldur's Gate 3 and Where Winds Meet, or the jungle of Uncharted 4. In noisy environments these details did tend to blend together in a way that was more cacophonous than artistically rendered (but I suppose that's pretty realistic to how audio works in the real world, too). Directional sound was accurate, if not as finely-tuned as it is in premium, performance-oriented headsets such as the Razer BlackShark V3 Pro.

The headset features dual-wireless connectivity, though not simultaneous — a switch on the right earcup lets you quickly switch between the headset's 2.4GHz wireless and Bluetooth 2 connections. Audio sounded a little compressed over the headset's Bluetooth connection, but it was fine for taking calls or scrolling through TikTok.

Specs

Microphone of the Cloud Stinger 3 Wireless

The Cloud Stinger 3 Wireless has a non-detachable flip-to-mute boom microphone that sits on the end of a 3.5-inch (89mm) flexible gooseneck arm. The mic is a 6mm back electret condenser microphone with a unidirectional polar pattern, and it does a decent job of keeping background noise at bay, even without any software-based noise cancellation active.

As for quality, the mic isn't anything to write home about — it's a pretty typical headset mic that picks up vocals loud and clear, but won't make you sound like you're a professional podcaster (or anywhere near that level). My voice sounded decently full over both voice chat and in recordings, but it still had the thin, slightly fuzzy quality that easily gave away the fact that this was a headset mic and not a standalone USB gaming mic. But as long as you're not creating content, this mic is perfectly capable for communicating with coworkers, friends, and teammates.

Features and Software of the Cloud Stinger 3 Wireless

The Cloud Stinger 3 Wireless is supposed to be configurable via HyperX's Ngenuity software, but I downloaded both the new Ngenuity (Ngenuity 3?) and the legacy version of Ngenuity, and neither was able to recognize the headset when it was connected to my PC (wired or wireless).

Luckily, the Cloud Stinger 3 works pretty flawlessly out of the box, so you shouldn't need the software (HyperX's Ngenuity software generally tends to be lacking on features, anyway) to use the headset. The headset comes configured by default with voice prompts that tell you when you're switching between connections and when your mic is muted/unmuted (though this is fairly obvious given that it's a flip-to-mute mic), and tapping the power button once gives you the headset's current remaining battery life. There aren't any settings I desperately wanted to change, though I did want to see if tweaking the EQ could pull out footstep details, and HyperX does boast about its software-based spatial audio on the Cloud Stinger 3 Wireless' product page.

Battery Life of the Cloud Stinger 3 Wireless

HyperX rates the Cloud Stinger 3 Wireless' battery life at "up to 80 hours" over 2.4GHz wireless, which is pretty impressive given how light the headset is. The BlackShark V3 Pro, which weighs 12.96 ounces (367g), gets up to 70 hours of battery life, while the 1.23-pound (560g) Audeze Maxwell 2 gets over 80 hours. Of course, HyperX's other headsets also have battery life that far outclasses their peers — the HyperX Cloud III S Wireless, which weighs 12.05 ounces (341.5g) and retails for $180 gets up to 120 hours over its 2.4GHz wireless connection.

Bottom Line

The Cloud Stinger 3 Wireless is a lightweight, comfortable wireless gaming headset that offers impressive performance and battery life for its $99.99 retail price. It has large dynamic drivers with a wide frequency response range and a fairly neutral (if a little boring) sound profile and up to 80 hours of battery life. It's extremely lightweight and comfortable, though it does look and feel a little cheap overall, and its flip-to-mute boom mic is perfectly adequate for most typical gaming situations. At $100, it's not quite what I'd call budget-friendly (more like the low end of mid-range), but it's definitely worth the price. My only real complaint is that it's a little boring (in both sound profile and looks) — for something a little more fun, I'd still recommend the $120 Corsair Void Wireless v2.

Dr. James Ries, the founder of Twenty Mile Medical, proudly proclaims that he’s a Razer Naga V2 Pro user. The most surprising thing about this tidbit is that he uses it while seeing patients remotely. Before you get your pitchforks out, no, the doctor isn’t playing World of Warcraft while evaluating a patient — instead, he uses it to simplify his and the rest of his team’s workflow. Dr. Ries mentioned this interesting piece of trivia during TextExpander’s interview with the healthcare provider, where he showed how he used the service to standardize patient care, reduce the cognitive burden on medical professionals, and quickly write more accurate clinical notes.

Doctor fatigue is one of the biggest issues that telehealth faces today. “Discharge instructions going out at 8 am from a fresh provider look nothing like the ones going out at 4 pm from the same provider after eight hours of visits,” TextExpander said. Dr. Ries said that he addressed this by using master Snippets (a snippet is a short text command, like “;sig” that would run a programmable command, like inserting your signature).

Instead of typing out a fixed phrase, sentence, or paragraph, which is what TextExpander is usually used for, the shortcuts he created bring up the relevant clinical scenario and give options to select appropriate responses as needed. He’d have snippets for general patient communication, sinus infections, psych refills, and more, and then there are check boxes that he can click in each master snippet to ask questions, add instructions, write prescriptions, and more.

Each master Snippet has its specific command, and this is where Dr. Riesa’s Razer Naga V2 Pro comes in. Instead of having to memorize the commands needed to launch the workflow, he assigned them to the customizable buttons that sit on his right thumb. He also assigned other buttons to insert his most commonly used typed paragraphs, like his intro paragraph and signature. You might think that this is excessive — after all, you’re only saving a few seconds by typing four characters instead of pressing one button. But even if that is true, you’ll save a lot of time if you use the shortcut often enough.

More than saving time, it also reduces the cognitive load on doctors. Decision fatigue is a real phenomenon across industries and professions, where people make bad calls not because they’re poorly trained or careless, but simply because they’re tired. Combining the text shortcut with the macro keypad on the mouse helps reduce this, as you don’t even have to lift your hand off the mouse to launch the master Snippet.

Dr. Ries says that the functionality isn’t limited to gaming mice — you can also use a macro pad like the Stream Deck Neo to assign commands and shortcuts, too. Nevertheless, he still prefers the Razer Naga V2 Pro because he doesn’t have to lift his hand off the peripheral to insert what he needs.

Watch the video below to see how the doctor uses his gaming mouse for productivity.

A developer has created a Chromium browser-based tool that turns Valve's second-gen Steam Controller into a self-propelled RC car, steering it across a flat surface in real-time with no app or driver installed. The page connects to the controller over WebHID, a browser standard for talking directly to USB and Bluetooth devices, and moves it by pulsing the gamepad's rumble motors. The Steam Controller first went on sale for $99 in early May and promptly sold out.

The tool utilizes the controller’s rumble motors, which, at the right frequency, cause the entire chassis to vibrate and creep across the surface in a chosen direction. The browser handles “steering” by varying the pulses sent to each gamepad stick, so leaning the output toward one motor turns the controller as it crawls. It’s the same type of vibration-driven locomotion that powers cheap “bristlebot” toys.

As for connecting to the Steam Controller, WebHID grants low-level hardware access from the webpage once the user approves the controller via the browser’s device picker, so the entire setup runs inside a single tab with nothing to download. WebHID is only supported in Chromium browsers, such as Chrome and Edge, and not Safari or Firefox.

Naturally, the site comes with some small print that explains that the service is offered “as-is” with no warranty, and warns that driving the controller across the ground scrapes it and wears it down over time. It recommends flat, smooth surfaces that keep the gamepad moving and reduce abrasion.

The community has been hard at work tinkering with the second-gen controller since its May launch. Valve released the Steam Controller’s CAD files under a Creative Commons license shortly after launch, explicitly inviting users to design their own accessories. The gamepad pairs dual trackpads, gyro controls, and grip buttons, a mix of inputs Valve walked through in its developer interview with Tom's Hardware, and that range of hardware has drawn a wave of experiments since units reached buyers.

The repurposed rumble motors here have also been a sore spot for the controller. The firmware quirks caused the rumble to behave erratically or cut out entirely in some games, a problem Valve has been working to patch. Demand has stayed high enough that resellers listed units above $300 after the launch stock sold out, and Valve has since opened a reservation system to push back against scalping bots.

In a June 18 update, Valve said that “initial demand exceeded our expectations,” but that it has “no plans to stop making Steam Controller.” Those now joining the reservation queue will be given one of three timeframes — September 2026, December 2026, or 2027 — for when they can expect to receive an order email with an option to purchase.

We've extensively benchmarked the best Thunderbolt and USB-C docks in 2026 and have compiled a list of the best models on the market here. There used to be a time when laptops would come with a bevy of ports to satisfy most of your connectivity needs. While some larger, desktop-replacement laptops still have a relatively large number of ports, ultrabooks have mostly reduced the number of ports to the bare minimum to save space and reduce weight.

While these efforts result in laptops that are thin and light, if you want to connect a wide variety of devices, including external monitors, you’ll need a dongle or a dock. While dongles are fine for connecting a single peripheral, docks are handy for connecting a variety of devices while simultaneously charging your laptop.

The two most common connectivity options for modern docks are USB-C and Thunderbolt. Nearly every laptop on the market has at least one USB-C port available, which opens up a wealth of possibilities for connecting everything from an external monitor to an external hard drive to webcams to gaming mice. Thunderbolt ports are less common, particularly the latest Thunderbolt 5 standard, but these docks give you the option for even more ports and faster maximum transfer speeds while supporting higher-resolution monitors.

With this in mind, we’re going to take a look at some of the best Thunderbolt and USB-C docks available today.

Quick List

Best Thunderbolt and USB-C Docks for Laptops you can buy today

Best Value Thunderbolt 4 Dock

The Amazon Basics Thunderbolt 4 Pro Dock is a relatively compact dock measuring just 7.86 x 2.95 x 1.23 inches. It features a jet black finish with cooling fins along its flanks to help dissipate heat. As you can see from its name, this is a Thunderbolt 4 dock, so it doesn't offer the higher throughput speeds and loftier Power Delivery figures available to Thunderbolt 5 docks. However, you do get up to 40 Gbps bidirectional data transfer speeds and up to 96-watt charging for your laptop.

The dock supports up to two 4K monitors at 60 Hz, and even includes a 2.5 GbE Ethernet port and an SD slot for offloading images from your digital camera or drone.

With a street price of around $200, the Thunderbolt 4 Pro Dock is a good all-around solution if you need a dock that won't break the bank.

Best Value Thunderbolt 5 Dock

The WAVLINK WL-UTD58-M is a well-rounded Thunderbolt 5 dock supporting bidirectional data speeds of up to 80 Gbps (120 Gbps one way) via its three downstream ports. The dock measures 8.6 x 3.8 x 1.38 inches and includes four USB-A ports for legacy peripherals. Your media needs are also met with microSD and SD slots, while a 2.5 GbE port handles your wired networking. It can also support up to three 4K monitors at a 144 Hz refresh rate.

One of the standout features of the WL-UTD58-M is the M.2 slot on the bottom of the dock, which allows you to add a PCIe 4.0 SSD.

The WL-UTD58-M has an MSRP of $399, making it price-competitive in the Thunderbolt 5 Dock market.

Best Premium Thunderbolt 5 Dock for Windows Laptops

The CalDigit TS5 Plus puts most other Thunderbolt docks to shame with its sheer number of ports (20 in total). The TS5 Plus looks unassuming from the front, offering microSD and SD slots, a single USB-A port, two USB-C ports, and a 3.5mm combo jack. However, the floodgates open at the back, where you'll find a wealth of USB-C, Thunderbolt, and USB-A ports.

CalDigit even offers up a DisplayPort 2.1 port for your monitor, and a 10 GbE port for wired networking. About the only thing missing here is an internal M.2 SSD slot like some other Thunderbolt 5 docks. The TS5 Plus supports up to two 8K60 monitors or three 4K144 monitors.

The TS5 Plus is a premium dock, and it definitely comes with premium pricing with an MSRP of $499.

Best Premium Thunderbolt 5 Dock for Macs

If you have a high-end Mac or MacBook, look no further than the Ivanky FusionDock Ultra. This is the ultimate Thunderbolt 5 dock available, and it only supports Apple Silicon Macs.

It offers a staggering 26 ports, including seven USB-C and two USB-A on the front panel (along with a microSD and SD slot). The back panel is awash in ports, including four Thunderbolt 5 ports, DisplayPort 2.1, HDMI 2.1, S/PDIF, and even a 10 GbE port. You won’t be left wanting, as every possible data and video option is covered here.

The FusionDock Ultra has two Thunderbolt 5 chips onboard, so it requires two Thunderbolt ports on your Mac. While that might seem a bit odd, giving up those two ports opens you to the most feature-packed Thunderbolt 5 dock on the market, while also delivering 140 watts through Power Delivery. With the proper hardware, the FusionDock Ultra can support up to four 6K60 monitors simultaneously.

All of this port goodness comes at a cost; however, the FusionDock Ultra has a street price of a staggering $649.

Best USB-C Dock

The Baseus RD1 Pro is a 15-in-1 unit with dual HDMI ports that support up to 4K resolution at 60 Hz. It also supports Power Delivery to a laptop, along with Gigabit Ethernet, an SD card slot, and a gaggle of USB-A and USB-C ports.

Perhaps its most interesting addition is a Qi2.2 wireless charging dock (25 watts) mounted to the top of the unit. The dock can lie flat or pivot forward, giving you a better view of your smartphone when it's docked.

The RD1 Pro even has a display on the front that shows the status and power level of the USB ports, which is a nice touch. The dock has an MSRP of $199.99.

Specifications