Page 1:Which Is The Best Case For An XL-ATX Motherboard?
Page 2:Building With The Azza Fusion 4000
Page 3:Building With The Enermax Fulmo GT
Page 4:Building With The Rosewill Thor V2
Page 5:Building With The Thermaltake Armor+
Page 6:Test Settings
Page 7:Heat, Noise, And Heat Vs. Noise
Page 8:Which 10-Slot Case Is Right For Your XL-ATX Motherboard?
Building With The Thermaltake Armor+
Thermaltake bags its screws separately from cable ties, but the wide assortment of hardware still requires some digging and sorting to find the right pieces when they're needed.
Fortunately, the Armor+ VH6000BWS includes a 5.25” adapter tray to hold the loose pieces while they’re being sorted. This is in addition to the top-panel’s storage tray.
Armor+ drive trays are designed exclusively for 3.5” hard drives. If you have a 2.5” SSD, you'll need to source an adapter separately. Additionally, the two bottom cages have to be removed before you can install an XL-ATX motherboard.
A carry-over from the AT form factor, three-pin power LED connectors are now virtually exclusive to Asus. Lifting a tab on the other side of the connector allows the positive lead to be extracted and moved to the center, and the excess plastic can be trimmed.
Card latches must be pushed down to release them, and they can be re-inserted at a similar inward angle. Though the process can be somewhat finicky, this is among the few card latch designs that functions as-intended for most cards.
Our XL-ATX motherboard and four-way graphics arrangement fits nicely with the two single-drive cages removed from the Armor+'s floor, though the case lacks standoffs to support the motherboard’s added length.
Anyone who likes lights will love the Armor+, while anyone who doesn’t must find a way to disable them.