We are using the following system for today’s build:
CPU | Intel Core i5-11600K |
Motherboard | Asus ROG Strix Z590-I Gaming WiFi |
Memory | G.Skill Trident Neo 16GB, 3600 MHz |
Graphics | Zotac RTX 3080 Ti Amp Holo |
CPU Cooling | Phanteks 240MP AIO with Noctua NF-A12x25 fans |
Row 5 - Cell 0 | Noctua NT-H2 Thermal Paste |
Storage | Corsair Force Series MP600 NVMe SSD, 480GB |
Power Supply | Corsair SF750 750W SFF PSU |
With this build, we’re using the new ITX case test setup based on the 11th Gen Intel Core i5-11600K processor, paired with an Asus Z590 ITX motherboard and a large RTX 3080 Ti graphics card. That’s a lot of hardware to throw at an ITX case, but the Q58 shouldn’t be troubled by this. That said, the Zotac GPU might be too big, so I do have the RTX 2070 Super ready in case I need it.
Step 1: PSU Installation
First, I installed the power supply in its designated location. By default, the case comes with the SFF bracket pre-installed, and the PSU slides right into place. If you have an SFF-L PSU, you may need to remove the bracket, install the PSU onto it, and re-install the lot.
Step 2: Motherboard Installation
Then, I installed the Asus motherboard, with the AIO’s pump head already installed. I could try and get the PCIe riser cable out of the way and install the pump head afterwards, but that seems like an inefficient way of going about things.
Step 3: AIO Installation
Then, it was time to install the AIO’s radiator at the top of the case. The Q58 supports 280mm radiators, as you can tell from the bracket I removed from the top of the chassis, but I don’t have a 280mm AIO available (yet). So, I installed the bracket and tried to put the radiator in place.
But I made a mistake: I installed the radiator on the bracket outside the case, and with the tubes not routed through the top opening, I couldn’t get it in place. So, I undid the radiator again, ran its tubes correctly, and re-installed the bracket. At this point, I decided that it would be easiest to leave the radiator uninstalled and off to the side, as this would give me extra clearance for cable management.
Step 4: Cable Management
Next, I decided it was time to tidy up all the cables. I find that in ITX cases, this is easiest to do without the GPU installed, as it just gets in the way. About 30 minutes later, I achieved the below result, which is quite tidy.
But there is a catch: The cable slack from the power supply had to go somewhere, and I shoved it right below the PSU. There is plenty of space here, but it is the spot where otherwise, you could install a 120mm intake fan. With some creativity and a lot of extra time, you could fit a fan here and use the standard cables that come with a power supply. There is some space behind the PSU, and you could jam things in a bit tidier – after all, the back of the fan has the prongs that hold up the motor, so you’re unlikely to get blade contact.
However, for best results, you may want to budget for a custom cable set that’s made to the exact lengths you require. This will lead to an easier build and much tidier looks.
Step 5: GPU Installation
With all the cables tidied, and the PCIe power cables pre-routed, installing the large Zotac RTX 3080 Ti was a breeze. I did have to nudge the PCIe riser card over a bit, but with that done, the GPU slotted right into place.
There’s just one thing I need to mention here: The GPU end of the PCIe riser cable could use some extra support. I was pushing down on the GPU, seeking that satisfying ‘click’ letting you know that it’s fastened into the slot, but I wasn’t getting it.
As you can see, I managed to bend the PCB a bit. This wasn’t a problem – I hadn’t damaged it and it did work just fine, but if you’re not careful, you might. Two simple standoffs to hold it up at each end isn’t enough to protect against uncareful installers bludgeoning the GPU in, so I’d like to see Lian Li add a support brace here.
Build Complete
With that, the build was complete. Time to throw on the panels.
In the end, building a system into the Q58 wasn’t as tough as ITX cases used to be. Admittedly, this one was a little trickier with the cable management and cramped space for cable slack, but it was still perfectly manageable with some time and patience. The Hyte Revolt 3 certainly builds easier, but it doesn’t have as nice a finish as the Q58, and while the Louqe Raw S1 both builds easier and is way more premium, it does cost much more and offers far fewer storage, cooling, and PSU options.