Compatibility: Will It Work?
Will these adapters work with your notebook? That's hard to say definitively. Duracell doesn't publish a compatibility list on its Web site. Fortunately, if you hit Amazon, you'll find a small chart listing brands and corresponding tips.
The back of the box spouts off a list of models, but that's no compatibility guarantee. There is a more complete list published in the included manual, but ideally, you'd know whether the adapter works with your notebook before you sink the cash on it. Well, we went ahead and scanned those pages so you can see for yourself.
Kensington is just as vague, though you can find a compatibility list on its Web site. Again, that's hardly a clear-cut matrix of models, though.
Targus publishes a short-hand compatibility list on the inside flap of its retail box, but the company's Web site is much more helpful. There is a guided search, similar to Kingston's and Crucial's memory configurator, that tells you exactly which adapter tip you need for your laptop and if it's offered.
If your notebook happens to be from one of the top four vendors (Acer, HP, Dell, Lenovo), you probably don't have anything to worry about.
That seems unusual. In my house we have 3 different laptops spanning 6 year purchase dates and they all have the exact same plug. Two of the laptops are Latitudes and the other is a Studio XPS. The only difference is that the Studio XPS came with a 130 watt adapter as opposed to 65 watt adapters for the Latitudes. So no gaming with that machine while plugged into the 65 watt adapters.
Actually this sort of standard DOES exist in Europe for smart phones and cell phones, I'm not sure if it includes laptop or netbooks but it might. I'll have to search around.
It seems the bottom line today is buy the OEM adapters if you want to play it safe.
come on Toms, get the BD benchies out already.
So that $800 laptop then requires another $270 to run after 3 years? And this is assuming you don't drop the thing, or break it through normal wear and tear. And laptops do not age as gracefully as desktops because they are generally crap hardware to begin with. Much better to stick with a $300 laptop, and a decent desktop. The desktop will keep up with the times longer and will have less maintenance, while the laptop can be swapped out when need be.
Instead of buying a new Lithium-Ion batt (that would only last about another 2 years anyway), I just use a 12V 7.2Ah Lead Acid connected to the PSU input when I don't have access to a mains supply for an extended period (e.g. on long train journey).
It works cos the PSU output voltage is 15V so 12V is close enough.